1965 D1100 4x4 driver/project

[Gunfighter97]

If you've ever fixed something electrical on your IH and didn't test it till later, only to find you hooked it up backwards and had to take three or more things apart to fix it, go ahead and subscribe to this thread

Right, the beast is back now with 99.9999(thats four 9s!)% working electrics! On to other things(thank God). I've managed to jimmy the signal switch fully working, what was happening was the contacts moved too far when signalling right and disconected both bright filament lines from the stop circuit instead of just the right. I put a ziptie around part of the switch to act as a shim and it corrected the problem. Unfortunately I'm a moron and didn't think to take a picture untill after I wrastled the steering wheel back on. Next note, I put in five gallons of gas from a can and the fuel gauge didn't move, however swapping in the gauge from the truck I stripped at the salvage yard showed just above empty. Am I correct in thinking something else may be wrong with this circuit(would think it would read atleast 1/4)? I have a home made continuity tester that I conected to the gauge and got the needle to come up on the gauge I removed so I'm unsure what may be happening. I'm celebrating the electric's completion (ironically with the 100th reply) via photo op. Really just a reality check on all the stuff I still need to do. Pics are of a couple areas I opened up/inspected for the first time out of curiosity, some of the non original components, some of things that I tried not to breath on for fear of breakage/turning to dust or lung disease, a couple of things I have no clue what to make of, and a small detail in the mounts of my winch bumper.
On another topic I want to become more familiar with the anatomy of the SV series engines, does anybody have cutaway pictures, or diagrams/exploded veiws? Am I right in my understanding that the cam drive in these engines is gear driven?(ie no "timing chain"?) I looked for play earlier today in the timing by rotating the engine slightly and watching for movement in the distributor rotor and found NO observable play whatsoever. Being that the previous owner said this engine had high hours thats great. I'm not familiar with this particular carb either, does the JB weld pictured apear to be over anything important? I kind of ignore that because inches away is the rustiest clutch slave cylinder I've ever seen. I will either be replacing this or ignoring it and hoping it goes away. My next set of fixes will be to run some rislone in the oil before changing to try and get the lifters of the two cylinders in the middle of the passenger bank to quiet down(also can somebody tell me how to reference cylinder # thanks in advance), VC gaskets, pan gasket, new filter and new oil. I may do a tuneup depending on if somebody out there with more experience thinks this distributor looks like it may need it inside (looks very clean/good to me)or maybe how to tell if it needs one? Also another question, is it worth buying a full engine gasket set rather than just the pan and VC gaskets? I may well go through the whole engine eventually.
A small detail I thought was quite cool was the IH logo on the bolts that mount the winch bumper to the frame(tells me it has been on there for a long @$$ time and also makes me want to rebuild the old winch). I noticed grooves worn into the front of the bumper where the winch spool looks like it may have cut into it. I hadn't tried to reinstall one of the winches I have for it, is there some kind if shim that needs to be infront and behind the winch? Hard rubber or just steel plate?
On the note of "tells me its been in there a long @$$ time" factory original parts, I removed.... Ehhemm, exhumed the mumified remains of my dash speaker (viewer discretion advised on those pics). Also I'm trying to determine the purpose of the plate steel inlay in the passenger side of the bed, its screws/nuts have been painted over so it hasnt been off for a long time... Any thoughts? Its on there so tight that I couldn't remove any screws when I tried last. (And yes I took the one picture with my head upside down)
Between big jobs I will tackle a bunch of smaller jobs like loostening up frozen cables and what not. Then just update in the next big post with a list to keep my thoughts collected.
Of all the real noticeable problems with this truck almost half were electrical, so its come a long way.
Credit to the forum for the library of info I used while wrenching, and special thanks to Scoutboy74 for his knowledge contributions. So enjoy an imaginary cold one and medium rare steak for now, this thing is off to a great start on its journey back to relatively good condition

 

[Scoutboy74]

Your steering column is from a D-line and not a SII. Pics confirm. Probably the same organ donor that supplied the axles.
Potential problems with fuel gauge readout can include: the gauge, the in-tank sender and the wiring in between the two.
That's exactly how rotten I expected your speaker to look!
Best source of information, diagrams, cutaways, pics etc. is in the factory service manual.
Correct, there is no timing chain on these engines.
Your carb is a Holley model 2300...OEM design...possibly even original to the engine. They're good carbs, when they're in good shape. Yours isn't. That JB weld looks like pure turkey shit slathered on there. Not a SAE endorsed repair method! I'm guessing the throttle body is probably cracked and that dooky pile was a feeble attempt to patch it up.
From the driver seat, the right hand bank has the even numbered cylinders and the odds on the left. Small numbers at the front, bigs at the back. The numbers for each are cast into the intake manifold as is the timing order.
Tuneups are easy and not ultra expensive. Almost a no-brainer when you don't know how long the consumable pieces have been in service, just so you know that item on the slate can be cleared. You're making good progress and learning crap tons about the old beast in the bargain. Heck, I've even learned a thing or three myself on this deal.

 

[Gunfighter97]

Thank you..... Again.... Manny times.... D line column, 3/4 ton 1210 ish running gear..... I'd almost be willing to bet money the seat and welded in door latch are from the same vehicle. In that case I won't blow up/burn/hazmat/burry/dump in lake the old seat... Although I may have to pay somebody to take it from me lol. Yea its taught me alot, real interesting truck, to be honest I'm glad I found it this way, Its so far cured me of my fear of wires. In regards to the fuel gauge, the sender is new, so thats out, and I have one more gauge I can try. Maybe I could have one rebuilt? Will look into the wiring once I clean out all the laying around butchered wire and loose parts out of there so I can pull the seat. I can't work on something without making a huge mess... Just isnt possible not to... Factory service manual... Last I saw it was expensive? Is there a ebook free? I probably sound cheap but its either the engine gasket kit or a manual if you know what I mean. At least I remember it being that much. So its #4 and #6 cylinders that have the tick... Any way to patch a carb crack correctly or is this unit just throw away at this point? Parts truck has a 266 in it no idea what carb, its sat with no air filter or valve covers since I was 8 years old driving by to go pheasant hunting and who knows how long before that. Little did I know I would some day own it lol. Tune up kit on the list might as well learn how.... Any idea if I could have that old speaker rebuilt? I kinda want to use as much of the original truck as I can, it was clear the last wrench that touched those nuts was at the factory. Had that "white cap white" on there, looked brand new from underneath. I have my hopes and dreams and heart set on a Reto Sound Laguna raddio but thats waaaaaay down the road. I had a conversation with my machinist friend, (hes had more cars than he can remember, ran a lathe at 6 years old, machinist and welder his whole life(yea that guy)) basically whatever he tells me about mechanics I believe him. Acording to him one of the reasons for lead in gas was a cusion for the valve seats so I did a bit of research to find that oddly enough, they used hardened valve seats, so the lack of gun food doesnt hurt things. Between that and the fact that theres no timing chain I'm now really starting to like theses engines.

 

[Gunfighter97]

As a matter O' fact, I've learned enough to maybe make heads and tails of the wire in my Fiat 850.... if only there was another section in this forum for non IH vehicles (You'll notice in my signature it says "because why not") in the end that car was free and I overpayed.

 

[Gunfighter97]

Alright, found something interesting, I grabbed a couple pics from this other thread on IH America's 1 ton travelall, hopefully I wont upset anybody by putting them here for reference. I was reading through and noticed something that caught my eye. It had to do with the rig's original dana 44 front end, having the original factory tierod skid plate and I noticed a certain mystery part in the background and recognised it as the unknown dangly thing on MY front axle. Can anybody can tell me more about this, possibly this is the same axle missing the skid plate, and where I might find one/pictures of one out of a vehicle? Seems since I will be doing the horizontal stabilizer I'm going to need to become familiar with this axle setup anyways, might as well complete the upgrade. See first pic for the unknown piece of my axle following two for the pics I referenced... Also the link to the 1 ton t'all (awesome build btw): https://forums.ihpartsamerica.com/showthread.php?t=9339

Off to axle tech I go!

 

[Gunfighter97]

Well, I've found out somethings on above post, more to come in a week or two on that. Anyways, who wants to talk lifter noise!? been reading into engine tech, seems like a mechanical version of my electrical spaghetti mess in that theres right around 10 wazillion causes and potential fixes for the problem. My problem is as follows: when I purchased the truck it didn't have this issue, it arrose a handfull of infrequent drives of various lengths after it sat in the local shop for 18 months give or take. It starts up with a noticable tick not real rapid, you can keep up with it tapping a finger not really even that fast. I developed what may have been an irrational fear of destroying my engine and since have not driven it on road and only ran it when I needed to. I had a frend who has worked with alot of engines look at it and he pinpointed it to cylinder #4 and #6 with an automotive stethoscope. I asked another even more experienced friend(previously mentioned when this guy tells me something I believe it without a doubt) he said to drain a quart of oil and add a quart of rislone, then drive it for an hour, then change oil. He also said I might take the cover off and make sure the valves aren't damaged or in need of adjustment. Well I took off the valve cover and boy-howdy are these valves big!(to be fair, the only ohv engine I've worked on was an inline 4 with about the same displacement as one cylinder of this truck) They also apear to be stamped steel with fittings staked in place. Any thoughts on what I should do/not do/look for? I pulled a quart of oil out today with a brake bleeder through the dip stick spout, have yet to put the rislone in, was just looking at the valve train scratching my head before I had to stop and furiously scrub oil off myself before an apointment. I read alot about people pulling the lifters out for cleaning, of course I've yet to get myself a service manual and am still a bit unfamiliar with the anatomy of/how to remove lifters from the 304. Oil btw reminded me of black coffey about the same consistency as reeeeally hot maple syrup(not real thin but not quite goop if that makes sence)

 

[Scoutboy74]

The valves aren't adjustable. The lifters can be easily plucked out of their bores with a telescoping magnet. The cam-riding surfaces should be examined for flatness. Any signs of dishing or cupping should be noted. Make sure they go back in the same hole they came out of.
If the oil looks as nasty a you describe, its way overdue for a change. Run something in the 15W-40 flavor. We've talked about Swepco and diesel rated oils, I think. Run a good quality oil filter, too. Not Fram junk. Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge...something with numbers on it hooked up that you can monitor while driving, even if only temporary. BE careful with the vinyl tubing that comes with most OP gauges. It is very fragile. If I'm keeping a wet gauge hooked up permanently, I always swap in copper tubing to replace the vinyl. Its a little spendy, but well worth the piece of mind. I wouldn't trust the vinyl for any longer than a testing interval to establish your base line pressures.
Of most interest is the hot OP readings. And I don't mean after just idling in your driveway for 15 minutes. It needs to be driven to get a good lather worked up. Note the initial, cold OP reading, which should be between 40 and 60 psi. Once good and hot, we like to see a baseline of at least 10 psi per every thousand engine revs...ie cruising at @ 2500 revs should see at least 25 steady psi on the gauge. Erratic pressure swings while holding a steady engine speed aren't good. At a hot idle, it will be normal for the gauge needle to drop very low, perhaps even slightly under 10 psi. As long as the needle promptly rises in response to increased throttle and climbs to at least 40 psi at full throttle...these engines are all in at about 4k/revs and holds steady to that minimum 10psi/per 1k/rev threshold at all points in between, I'd say you can rest easy and not let a little ticky-tack bother you too much.

 

[Gunfighter97]

See? Irrational... Thanks for that. Anyways, will be getting a wix filter, 10w40 oil (perhaps the deisel rated) with a zddp additive. I read some brand oils have an additive thats intended to mix with their own oil and people seem to have good enough results for aproved use in tractor engine... I know I said I would suck it up and get the expensive stuff but I found another part I really don't need but really want and it's the only one I could find so naturally I'm scraping together all the $ I can lay my formerly oil stained fingers on. I thought about adding a set of napa gauges on the bottom edge of the dash for analog oil pressure, voltage, and whatever else I thought I might need/want. I have an altimeter and manifold pressure gauge from an old crop duster I'm wanting to do something with as well. I will continue as planned, I have an upcoming pilgrimage to the IHPA HQ in grass valley so I will be getting some goodies to bring back and post about here, they seem cool, already gave me a price break on a part, just have to come dismantle it myself.
My list so far:
secret mystery part #1
Bellhousing covers
Side glass
Full engine gasket kit
Service manual (1962-1971)
Anything else I find that I dont have and can still afford
Also attached are pics of the new(to me) seat! Mounted to what may very well be the single most out of place part in the entire vehicle. Also valves and the old seat, does this look consistent with other added parts on this truck, ie d series 1200? If so I may have the worlds biggest $25 gift certificate for my shopping trip. hopefully it is IH, then I may atleast be able to get rid of it without having to SPEND money.

 

[Gunfighter97]

Just had another thought, In regards to a ramsey 8k pto winch, that I dont currently have a pto system installed for, I've been thinking about a conversion to either electric or hydraulic. To quote an earlier reply, "...killer amp draw loads like a winch...." Limits it for my preference atleast to hydraulic. Now, with a valve running into my cab, I've seen it done before (albeit with alot beefier units(like a AM general deuce and a half)) running a two directional pto winch off the power steering unit and a mounted hydraulic motor. Anybody know if this old d series unit has enough "umph" to do that? I'm guessing probably not considering it barely has enough to steer without stalling in a parking lot, allthough, that is idling and with a winch or accessory like that running, the throttle knob could be made use of just like it probably was with my original pto unit. I may not even need a valve in the cab, with some ingenuity I could set up a cable/knob system to a valve. My orriginal pto unit had a makeshift shift leaver added, however the original cable control was still there, took me a loong time to figure out what the heck it was for, unfortunately knob and cable mount long gone.

 

[Gunfighter97]

Ok, first off its late and I'm quasi delusional, but I just looked into the oil thread again.... That was a mistake... Am I correct in that 15w40 deisel rated DOES have the adequate zddp amount? Typo earlier whan I wrote 10w40, meant the 15w40, but do I not need the ZDDP with deisel rated oil?

 

[Robert Kenney]

None of the current diesel oils have enough. I dug through all of the available data sheets to see what amount they had. Unfortunately, in recent months they have reformulated the few that did in an effort to meet new standards.

 

[Gunfighter97]

Ok, thanks. I'll look for a 15w40 deisel rated brand I like with a matching brand additive.

 

[Scoutboy74]

None of the current diesel oils have enough. I dug through all of the available data sheets to see what amount they had. Unfortunately, in recent months they have reformulated the few that did in an effort to meet new standards.

Robert, is this true of the Walmart Supertech also?

 

[Robert Kenney]

I looked into the major brands. The last was the 400LE. That was replaced with an emissions safe formula and renamed. We would have to look at the standards that is meets. That’s about all we can do unless the maker has a data sheet where they say the zinc/phos ppm. Otherwise it’s low zinc etc.

 

[Gunfighter97]

I may regret asking this, but since I plan on dropping the pan in the near future, how hard is it to change out the rear main seal? (No idea really whats involved(I hope not much ))

 

[Scoutboy74]

For one thing, the trans needs to be separated from the engine. Its a job that's best done with either the engine out or the trans out.

 

[Gunfighter97]

Eeek never mind. Problem for another day. I think it leaks but its very minor. Worst leaks seem to be pan gasket VC gaskets and oil filter housing. Ill reseal those when I change oil. What I will probably do is gather some parts together, and in the far and safely distant future pull the engine/tranny/t-case for reseal if not total rebuild, maybe even paint.

 

[Gunfighter97]

Completley off topic, but being an offroad rich crowd, anyone recon a devoted "hunting/fishing trip" thread would be welcome in chit chat? Or have I not found it yet? I have a knack for accumulating some fairly entertaining stories (as all hunters do) as well as scenic trail pics and offroad moments (like driving off a cliff while looking up hill at a doe(yes this happened to me as a passenger(I was on the downhill side))). Eventually my truck will be my hunting rig, my dad's Polaris Ranger is great at alot, but this truck sits sooooo much higher when you get into the heavy brush where them antlers hang out. Thoughts?

 

[Gunfighter97]

Holly $#!÷ I forgot how dadgum hair-raising this thing is to drive.... But it does drive Steering on the otherhand, well.... My gauges (fuel, oil, and heat) cut out and came back on a minute later, the only thing it could be is the little do-dad where gauge power goes in back of temp, ill see if I can find one at napa. Engine sounded very unhappy for being left and not moved for so long... Cleared up after a minute or so, valve tick got better but still there. Have a feeling I should just go ahead and borrow the other truck for my IHPA pilgrimage. Next I've GOT to fix this steering....... Woohoo.... I like adrenaline but dang.....

 

[Gunfighter97]

Well, lifter noise is getting better, been driving it to clean the local water ditch clean out box for a few days, seems to be settling down(either it is or I've developed nerves of steel). Was doing good but this just happened. Subtle leak, but exactly where I thought it would be, any idea what I might pay for another useable d line cross flow type rad?