• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

1965 D1100 4x4 driver/project

Scoutboy74

Moderator
I like the Stant Lev-R-Vent rad caps. The 13lb-er isn't bad. You could safely go up to a 16lb-er with the radiator you have. I think there is supposed to be some type of felt gasket under the PSP cap. They naturally deteriorate over time. Where to get a new one? I don't know. You might have to roll your own.
 
Well, I'm in cheapo luck since that apperars to be exactly what I already have :icon_xd: I figured it was some random junk that anybody else would replace but screw it, budget wins! Felt gasket, should be easy. Now watch me make it dificult some how :lol: Ok, Ive run out of time to do the jobs I wanted to do all at once, hunting season just hit me like a ton of bricks in the form of a 30-30 buttplate under recoil. I think I will play with stuff underneath for now and fix up my rad once I return from my upcoming expedition, I was hoping to take this thing up to Tahoe this year but it seems it will have to wait till next time. I also will need to order all the joints needed in the front end so I may well have to leave the front end apart for a week half done. It wasnt ideal but I guess this is why they say, "no plan survives contact with the enemy." :nonod:
*edit: or more accurately, "no plan survives contact with PO patch jobs"
 
Spring packs is the game today, so far ive found more road code violations (in excess of 10 wazillion at this point), u bolts that were barely snug, and I made a new critter friend when I removed the driver wheel. At least the black widow that was in there is gone :lol: In that pic you can see the extent of rubbing on the tire. Also im fairly certain the three screws missing from the pass drum are important. Also the axle seems to be magically levitating with no U-bolts holding it on??? Am I missing something?
*edit never mind, went inside for a bottle of watter, came back out and the axle is now on the jacks
 

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Welded wedges removed, just realized this belonged on my axle tech thread but oh well its just as home here, trying to make heads or tails of the pass U-bolt setup. I dont think that flange is original but theres nowhere to put another bolt.
Edit: experamenting with pictures outside of test forum. Bad idea? Probably. . . or maybe. . . pure genious! HAHA! ITSALIVE!



 

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Okay, Ive been super bussy with gun repairs, sales, hunting, and trying to fit in my IH addiction, I'm going to collect my thoughts here so I dont loose any. I've got about a week or more till I will start this round of fixes, and still have others in the works. I also have a massive box with a delicate aluminum radiator sitting in my garage that needs to disapear before something gets dropped on it.
Next up: coolant(finally) run a gallon of simple green and flush thoroughly. From here I will look at the thermostat and inner workings for rust and re evaluate things as necessary. I will pull the heater out for disassembly/repair, replace the firewall pad, and install the new rad. Lastly once the block is clean I will install a new t-stat, a couple new gaskets(I plan on a water pump inspection so I will reseal that as well) new hoses and add new coolant with a rust inhibitor. Hopefully somewhere in there I will continue working on the front end and steering. If anybody has suggestions on direct drive vs clutch fans, now is the time as I will be ordering parts.
 
Boy howdy! The parts manual, is ALOT more useful than I expected. So, I'm only in two sections so far, and I've already learnt alot. The 1100 and 1200 frames/components apear more or less the same accept for wheel base. The 1200 springs have one more leaf than the equivalent in an 1100. Looking at my springs, the original build sheet springs are long gone, however there is in all four corners what seems to be an IH miscellaneous meat stew of spring groups. I also found yet another "PO was here" in the rear helper spring shelfs. You can see this pic the properly installed driver rear shelf and four bolts(behind frame rail):

And here the passenger rear shelf:

At this point I'm honestly wondering how clinically incompetent you can be. Apparently this much.
Moving on from that, the rear springs themselves are the only anomaly. Everything else looks like IH assemblies including the helpers. The rear main springs are 5 leaf. They're supposed to be 6 leaf. No clue. Fronts apear standard 5 leaf for this truck even though the build sheet says HD fronts (6 leaf). The rear groups are consistent with the heavy duty factory groups (omitting the main springs) and factory for my truck is standard (without helpers). Hence miscellaneous meat statement.
In other news Ive found my US tubular tire carr. Aparently US=Under Slung, the pivots and spacer are still there unfortunately the rest is MIA. I could fabricate one, however I kinda want that space for a fuel tank. But then again the box aint that big on this thing, and I cant do a side mount because theres not enough space between the fender and cab.
Lastly I will (eventually) get my previously discused fixes done, but the problem is my front driveline just ate half my budget, leaving me literally counting dollars (and my wallet seeing stars).



 

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Another eternity stuffed inside my wheel well later. . .

Unfortunately, both my block drains are fubared. :cryin: I can try to get the driver side out but have a feeling I'll end up rounding it. Will have to drill/tap the other side for sure, no clue how I'm going to clear the chips out unless the hole is at the ABSOLUTE bottom of the water jacket. Then they may rinse out with a hose from up top. I was looking through the service manual, is there a map for water flow? Like there is for oil? And any tips on not further fubaring the existing drain plug? Anyways, the heater is out, will tear into that tomorrow, as well as open up the t-stat housing/water pump. If things arent too rusty I will run a hose till the juice coming out is clear, then flush with a gallon of distilled since my water has alot of mineral content. If it looks semi clean in there I will install the new rad with new coolant. I ran it up to temp yesterday with a gallon of simple green in, coolant that came out today looked terrible compared to the near clear stuff that I got before I put the simple green in. Hopefully that worked all there was in there loose. Its getting all new hoses, t-stat, a few gaskets, heater valve repair kit, and a tune up while I have the rad tube off. Shiny new things to come, after I hack my way through 50 years of bandaids.... So yea business as usual :icon_eek:
 

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WHY? WHY DID THE PO HAVE TO FIX EVERYTHING?!? :mad2: Uuhhhg. Heaters out, aparently the bright red valve spliced into my heater wasnt the only splice, someone thought it would be a good idea to saw off the outlet tube from the valve and use that to rout a straight tube through the fire wall to the heater core.


I found Mr. Previousowner's name all over the inside of the heater; jb weld everywhere on the core along with the aforementioned butchery, topped off by enough fossilized pine needles and rust flakes to fill up a gallon jug.





On the rad swap, this is what I've gotten off today, fortunately, it doesnt seem real sediment-ey, so what I think I will do is rinse like I planned, and run a extra does of flush for about 50 miles or so then flush and refill again. I'm also open to advice on what to do, I want to do the best I can for it, however budget will be the limiting factor.


I'm seriously considering bypassing the heater entirely for now and properly fixing it, paint and all.
 

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Took the heater the rest of the way apart, I'm just gona suck it up and completely restore it. Its so bad I'd feel guilty if I put it back anything close to this. On the upside, I've found that aparently the heater core is still made :out: and the valve is rebuildable. I have several options, I can sleve and rebraze the tube on mine, take the one out of my parts truck(arguably the most work) or find one online. I will also read into the r&r for heaters thread. The blower motor save for some greasy dust looks great, air rotor is pristeen. Will look for a rebuild kit since there is alot "thrust" slop in the motor shaft, even though it runs great, that may not be the case when cold outside. On the housing for it all, anybody know a paint that looks original? Looks to have been grey before somebody POahehem roll brushed over the rust with matt brown. I've got an idea to try and clean up the water jacketing once I get the block drains sorted. Basically my idea is to cap off the bottom hose and fill the system with a medium ish rust solvent and let it sit in there a couple days, then thoroughly flush. Let me know if inhaling all this rust has made me crazy but it seems like a good idea.




 

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An electric motor needs that endplay to find its magnetic center. If is side to side bearing play then it's no good.

Plenty of people just flush their cooling system with a dishwasher detergent that doesn't suds up.
 
I knew about the endplay, however is slightly over .25" a bit excessive? I've never seen a motor with this much is all. Side to side wise it seems fine, I'll lube up the bearings all the same. I ran some simple green up to temp before I dismantled it, that made my coolant murkier than Ive ever seen. Dish washer detergent huh? Thats a new one. I was thinking about capping the bottom hose and filling the engine jacketing with clr for a day or two, then rinsing with distilled. Does your dishwasher detergent flush involve going up to temp? Its half way apart but I can put it all back if you think it would work better than the clr.
 
Mayday, mayday, mayday, this is Gunfighter97, we have a full can o' worms situation, I repeat, A FULL CAN O' WORMS SITUATION! SEND REINFORCEMENTS A-S-A-. . . . . . *over run by worms :icon_xp: :icon_xp: :icon_xp:
Ooookay, heres where Im at. I was in denial when I pulled the upper hose off, now Ive come to terms with the fact that my entire cooling system is in need of a total overhaul. Basically I've removed the heater; the core and valve were garbage, and will be replaced with the radiator. Right now I'm going to loop the heater tubing, and fill the old component system with new coolant and clr, drive a couple days, and drain/inspect through a rear driver bank freeze pulg. Repeat as necessary. Once thats cleaned out I will repair my block drains and replace ALL the freeze plugs with new brass ones, the rear ones as I understand, involve removing the tranny. . . since Im doing that, I might as well rebuild it. . . since the truck will be dead anyways, same goes for the t-case. . . and I might as well replace the rear main seal while I'm back there. . . might as well work on the clutch. . . so on and so forth. I will add a reverse switch to the tranny, new fluids, inspect the drivelines, repair my parking brake, and once the engine is done, put everything back, install the new alluminum rad with new hoses, t-stat, heat sender, a few gaskets and a restored heater. While the engine is apart I will do a tune up: new condenser, points, rotor, cap, plug wires, and replace a couple old wires to the coil. Also I'll finally change out the factory original engine oil and give it new filter housing/pan/valve/timing cover gaskets, new filter, and inspect the lifters, new battery cables, fan belts, fix an issue with my alternator bracket, clean clean clean, and maybe something with the starter? If there is ANYTHING ELSE I COULD DO, PLEASE SUGGEST IT NOW as I'm strategically planning the funding behind all the parts I'm going to need.
Bottom line: in order to fix the thing I need to fix, I basically need to fix EVERYTHING ELSE!!! I'm not even upset at this point, it's actually rather comical. A lot, and I mean a lot more things to come. . . hopefully loosing my sanity isnt among them...
 
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For rust abatement, you need an acid. CLR has a small amount of acid to cut thru hard water scale and rust in the bathroom. Simple Green, Dawn and Cascade cut grease. They won't do jack sh#t against rust. If you were to break that motor completely down and have a machine shop hot tank it, they would submerge it in a bath of hot water and a gentle dose of muratic or citric acid to break down the rust. I recommended CLR because its a safe home remedy. Don't go buy pool acid and try it at home! Remember: Acids eat rust and most things metallic, Lye eats organic material (paint, grease, meat, etc). Simple Green and most soaps are based on a lye-style chemistry. And like acids, concentrated lye will seriously ruin your world.
 
I can do the described mech work, I am not however, a backyard chemist. You gotta know your limits, about as deep as I go is a recipe to get compost into potassium nitrate into home brew black powder that I still havent tried. I do know clr works well against rust, I just hope all that crud aint structural. :confused5:
 
The first shiny new thing has arrived, and I've added twin sticking the t-case to the list, I'm going to compile all the things and resurect it temporarily tomorow for the flush process. Anyone rekon it would hurt it to run well water with the clr? Anything and I realy do mean anything I dont have to buy is a boost to the parts budget. Hopefully in another week or two I will have a nice pile o' parts and will start the process. I'm looking for a couple paints, 1 something good/durable for the tranny/t-case that I can either arisol spray or brush on, and 2 a good aesthetic paint for my heater, hopefully a match to the original grey color.
 

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Thank you, all who serve. Today we honor those home safe, those at peace in the hands of God, and say a prayer for those over seas. Blessed are the peace makers.
11/11/18
 
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Long day today... The majority of the parts are on the way, the big fix will begin in a few days or so. I have everything I will need accept for the over haul kits for the tranny and t-case, and of course all the things I probably forgot. :D Now, if only I had a place to let this thing sit for a month without being in the way. . .
 
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