• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

1965 D1100 4x4 driver/project

Hello, I've admitted to my self that I may be SLIGHTLY over my head, and so I've come here. This is my 1965 D1100 4x4, I aquired around two years ago (you could argue this is my first car as its still the only one that runs), I love every minute of it. This thing has great bones, looks amazing from 50 feet away or more, however its far from perfect. Judging by the wad of receipts I found in it, it seemes the previous owner aquired it from a pick n pul years ago. I found it on craigslist for $3k, decided to go see it, fell in love and drove it home without any issues. Did I over pay? Who knows! But I liked it too much to risk the guy coming after me to snag it. Since then I've had some work done, and encountered a couple strange issues, but nothing I couldnt handle. Now I'm looking to really start working bugs out, and improving things, and here is where I may be a bit too deep. From this point on consider me a noob to most all things IH. I think I know a few things, but if anything I post isn't right, let me know, I'm trying to learn as much as possible here. More to come, so stay tunned! Next post will be whats in it is as it sits(also build sheet) and my "laundry list." Shortly thereafter should come an install/impressions of a reproduced wiring harness from XXX with possible red neck/gunsmith headlight switch repair! Also if they dont work here I will try to get pics in... Im not extremely computer savvy and only just joined... It only took me two hours to get this far :icon_xp: also maybe somebody can tell me if Im right in being paranoid or not about posting pics of license plates?
 

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Right, the pictures apear to have worked, now to the details. Truck as it sits has a large open knuck D44 front axle, rear is an old D60 (6 bolt shafts) with open diffs front/back, 4.10 gears and 8 lug hubs all the way around. Nice Warn locking hubs. Unknown T-case, maybe the original np 202 (T141 on build sheet)? I'm no expert but the cross member doesn't look original lol see pic. Original T98A 4 speed with lefty pto(have the pto but not installed) and also original 12100 E100 V304 "low comp. export"(?). It has about 1.5-2 inch body lift, consequently an out of place rag joint column from what I assume is a Scout2. IH looking power steering pump(not factory), unknown box.

Factory build sheet I recovered through Super Scout, and basic overview is D44s front and back(small closed knuck front/pwr lock rear) np202, T98A w/lefty pto, "HD FRT SPG"?(heavy duty front springs?), standard Ross manual steering gear, speedo-tools-misc?(would love a "factory" tool kit), 12 inch 12 spring clutch, V304 "export", 19 gallon tank, reg cab, 7 foot box, extra visor, US tubular(?smudged looks like tusular) tire carr(missing and needed), white cap white.

Has what I think is either factory or dealer BLOODY MASSIVE winch bumper and ramsey #8000 pto winch. Have the drive line and 2 winch, one original(bad shaft) one refurb that came with the truck. Was told it had some kind of front crane for standing up telly poles but who knows.

Currently the wiring I refer to as "the great ducttape massacre" and the gauges work off and on, amp gauge isnt hooked up(has a gm one wire 90amp, may have coocked some things), back lights dont work, signals and wipers used to work, headlights are FUBARed into what equates to maglight D cells from the late 90s. The brake switch seized up and I was an idiot trying to mash the pedal to unstick it, consequently the main line poped and the brakes bled out. I experienced making new lines on another truck, and not finding diy apealing trailered it to a local shop. While it was there I opted to remove the PTO in favor of twin pipes(the old exhaust hung from a chain). Ultimatly I got hosed. It took them 9 months to fix and almost half of what I payed for the dang thing :incazzato: at the end of it all they forgot to replace the switch so diy happened. 2 months later I took it to a show that my church hosted and noticed it sounded.... How can i put this... enthusiastic? Both pipes came unbolted from the headers and were sitting on the front axle. :mad2: On the upside it sounded great for the show.
Anyways shortly there after it developed a noticable amount of lifter noise and I stopped driving it, I know it needs new oil, havent had time so far but it will go in with my new wiring in the next few months.

Anyways, out of time for now, more pics to come. Feel free to chime in with any comments. Info about the build sheet codes where noted would be greatly apreciated.
 
More pics. Odly seems to only allow me 6 at a time, last here is of a faded/old looking "arrow head" shaped sticker in the windshield, if anyone can tell me what it is, or post a pic of another one I would apreciate it. A bit of history also, the LST apears to have originated in Oakland CA, and shipped to Valley Truck & Tractor in Yuba. I happen lo live less than an hour from there and the store exists to this day however in a different location but the old building is still there as well.
 

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And a few pics underneath, as you can see in the previous post, this truck is very capable off road, aparently to the poit where its upside-down! :icon_razz:

Also a couple of the t-case. Np202? I havent been able to find a tag on it, but then again I didnt have time to remove muck when it was on the lift.
 

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Scoutboy74

Moderator
Cool truck. The axles are 3/4 ton running gear from a 1200 or even a later 1210. The PS pump/res unit is consistent with one that would be found in a full size platform rather than a Scout II. I would suspect then, but cannot confirm from the pics, that the steering gear box and column/shaft would likewise be from a full size pickall and not a Scout II. Your sob story about the work performed by the shop is an all too common refrain these days. Sadly it seems there are far too few shops around that truly have the desire and the know how to take on a vintage vehicle and perform the required work in a satisfactory and timely fashion. They're more used to working on more modern vehicles that are able to essentially tell the tech what is wrong via onboard diagnostics. In other words, no one wants to work on our rusty, old junk. To a large degree, this leaves us to our own devices. If the wiring really is as bad as you say, you'd probably be money and time ahead to gut it in favor of a universal kit, rather than attempting to bubble gum and band-aid the existing spaghetti mess back together.
 
True that on the "all too comon". I thought otherwise since the shop owner was a second gen IH dealer AT THAT LOCATION.(boonies near my house) he had an un papered 1966 1200 in his yard that I bought for parts and liked my truck, even drove an old r series himself. I kinda wish he charged me less but in the end it was semi worth it, he got alot of nostalgia from it and passed sadly earlier this year. Dont know if you can see in the pics but driver side of my truck on the lift was his "parts cabnet" a 1963 split window vett on blocks XD. Anyways somebody already tried on patching the wiring, Im going to replace most of it with an oem reproduced harness made custom for a 10si. The factory bundle is already been replaced for the rear lights and the oem from the starter downward is good enough to make minor repairs to. Everything else is getting gutted. Thanks for the info on the 3/4 ton axles, was wondering about weight rating (7/8ish ton was what I concluded). I will try to snag a pic of the column tomorow; have an original top half of a column from a cut up truck in idaho, was thinking I might build a rag joint type column out of it and get the nice 60s steering wheel back(4 spoke). Every one told me I was nuts for buying this thing and that I would never find any parts, but I havent had any trouble so far, more so figuring out what I actually need. :confused5: it has a butt ton of stuff for me to do, so Ill update as I go. Absolutly no regrets, this thing is an absolute tank, with an incredible turning radius all be it only one direction(fix to come for that). I'm liking the color for a Gadston flag on the doors :thumbsup:
 
While I have some time I decided I would throw a sort of to do list together for the bigger issues. These are the the things that offend me most/ most important and not in any particular order. (Leaving out electrics, I plan on doing that first) I'm looking through eleventymillion threads on some of these, so to the readers, if you happen to know a thread on a particular issue please post a link for future reference. Thanks in advance. :icon_biggrin:

1. Fix the leaks. Its leaky-leaky, like seriously its perpetually wetting itself lol. It doesnt pour fluid in any case, its just a very persistent driveway stainer in most all cases. The only thing that doesnt leak is coolant, and I honestly don't expect it to stay that way. Replaced plugs already, radiator is where the issues are.
Front/rear axle pumpkins
T-case *source of leak to be determined
Engine oil seeps from pan gasket and V-covers
Tranny *source to be determined
2. Play "Guess That LOUD Noise" with 4th gear over 45mph. Sounds sorta like driveline noise? Noticeable change when you take your foot off the gas. Sort of a rattley humming going up to 65. More rattle than humm off the gas.
3. Fix butchered driver door so the window will go down more than an 8th inch. Some nincompoop decided to cut a big ugly hole around the old latch and jimmey/weld in an unknown latch. While they did that they cut/bent the rear track(metal u shaped strip that the felt sits in) upwards. All of this correlates to why I named the truck Sherman, after the Sherman tank of ww2, the one the germans called tommy-cookers.(It COOKS me in the summer(AC on the wish list)) especially since the heater doesnt turn off all the way.(note bright red valve on heater hose in the engine bay pic)
4. Fix steering issue. Front edge of the driver tire hits the front end of the pit arm/link when steering hard right, it steers tighter left than right. Also going over 40mph on bumpy country roads is bumper-bowling not driving.(I call it drunk simulator).
5. Replace front shocks
*actually have rear shocks
6. Cab seals ie lots of silicon sealent, and rebuild doors.
7. Fix/rebuild heater controlls/valve.
8. Recover the new (to me) seat and install. *throw away/blow up/dump/burn/sell the unknown old seat that wasn't mounted properly.(GAD PLEASE FIX THAT SMELL) :shocked:
9. Sort out a winch
10.Wish list items(may do some along the way, others are over the rainbow)
Replace bed floor
Fix right trim ring
Replace rear lights with ones you can actually see day time
Disk brake
Dual tanks
Dual Dual tanks (maybe the truck actually IS drunk?)
Spare tire carrier
Change from 16.5 to 16 wheels
Do something with the bed rack or make a new one
(Make removable rack mounted "bed" light)
Front bumper mounted lights? Not sure yet
Repair rust on cowl under hood/remove/re-engineer vents
AC
Replace door glass
Fix knackered tailgate
Sturdy hitch
Supercharge. Yes, supercharge. 5-10psi boost?
(For hunting/trailing in Tahoe)
don't want a turbo cuz merica
5Speed(least likely)
Upgrade headlights(already have h4 conversion)
Custom rag joint column for original look inside
Manual lockers
Completely rebuild things eventually(engine tranny t-case)
 
AND SO IT BEGINS!!!! Tore into the Great Duct tape Masacre today, and now that I know how all that ratsnest conected together, holly smoke was the guy that did that stupid! Most if not all the bandaids were redundant. The wireing to ALL the lights was disconected, wired over, and reconected via splice (those cheesy no strip required parallel conectors) near the end of the original wire! There was also a pile of other useless excrement eg a 6 foot wire weaving through and arround EVERYTHING and completely disconected with no conectors at either end. Other random bits of wire in all possible shapes/tied in knots with various connectors not even really attached save for thousands upon thousands of zip ties. There was a backup light added, that i traced back to the switch, then removed the switch to find IT WASN'T HOOKED UP AND SOMEHOW WORKED? :out: :shocked: (haunted? Who knows!) The headlight switch setup was PTSD inducing, dont ask, see pics for carnage. I recruited a neighbor kid to be a second pair of hands and we determined that as a general rule: if its purple or orange, its probably broken. The hazard system was hilarious: a on off switch, power from lights(straight off the bat terminal) to a 1 inch long wire conected to a second flasher, from there 4 purple leads spliced to each corner.... Fortunately the bundle down to the starter from the big firewall plug seems useable. In other notes, I'm not sure if its ironic or if scoutboy74 actually expected me to find things held together with gum and bandaids but i did find a large grease and dirt impregnated glob that i instantly regreted touching :eek: I can confirm it was... An.... Improvised....? Firewall bushing. Gad this truck. Stay tunned for continued zip tie genocide, horrifying/biohazardous 30 year old bush fixes, and a 10si install.... P.S. if anyone can spot the difference between sides in the pic of the front end before my next post, they will be awarded an imaginary cookie :lol:
 

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Scoutboy74

Moderator
Just wondering if, when you get done separating the wheat from the chaff, will there even be enough wheat left to make a sammich? It looks like good clean fun though. I feel for that poor kid who assisted you. He's scarred for life. Some things you can't unsee. He's probably got the misguided, but understandable notion that all old Internationals have been so grossly and perversely molested by their previous owners. The headlight bucket is missing on the LH side. I'll have white chocolate chip, thanks.
 
Yea, TBH I think I'm more scarred than he is because of the gum incident. And You spotted the difference! Honestly its not that hard, but the one on the left is the original one, bucket is removed with the sealed beam bulb, the other one is from something else. Hence why no trim ring, see pics. Imaginary cookie sent lol! Does the conector in one of the last two look IH? That long lankey bit was in with the wire on the left splash gaurd, not really hooked up. The wire looked original, maybe some accessorie lights?
 

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Scoutboy74

Moderator
We might have our directions mixed up. When I say left, my frame of reference is from behind the steering wheel, not as if I'm facing the front of the truck. That's the convention that most service manuals use when they're describing something on one side or the other of a vehicle. So to me, the bulb housing on the RH side is the original, while the LH side is the unknown albatross. IH used what are known as Packard 56 connectors, as did most other domestic auto makers at that time. New connectors can be purchased online from a variety of sources. The three terminal headlight connectors are a common replacement item that can be found in most auto parts stores. Not to beat a dead horse, but it's what I tend to do, you're this far along on wire removal, it isn't that much more of a leap to rip everything out and start over with a nice, supple, well labeled Kwikwire universal harness, giving you a modern fuse block and master kill switch. I know it seems like a daunting prospect, but you'll have far less frustration and fewer Gremlins to herd by ripping the bandage all the way off in one shot. Just sayin'.
 
Hrmmm..... Honestly im confused now. I referenced the left (driver side) bucket, i thought it was original since it has the threaded portion for the trim ring screw. Other does not. :confused: I found some replacement adjustment screw anchors for the driver one, near as i can tell the parts truck has two of the same bucket? I dunno I just want both trim rings lol. Will tear into it again this afternoon, possibly start to install my new wire. I saw the Kwikwire kits, frankly I've seen too many that looked like everything I just removed, i have a brand new repo harnes that Im puting in, I dont mind the old fuses so much either, the fuse panel and conectors on the new harness are all refurbished ih.
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
That may be the case. I'm more familiar with SII and later D-line buckets which are more kinda similar to the one which you're saying is not like all the others you're more familiar with. The reman harness sounds like a good way to go for you.
 
First let me say, theres nothing wrong with kwikwire, but my skill level on electrics is -1 out of 10. The original design is plug and play all be it more expensive, but this is stupid proof for me. :D Everything is stripped out now, didn't have my helper yesterday so didn't get far. I will have to do some continuity testing on the original bit that I plan on saving, and sort out the rear lights and trailer plug. Once thats done I'll put the new in and figure out how the heck I set up a 10si. (Never installed an alt b4)
Dont know if I will need a pulley change or even how to tell, if anyone needs me I'll be swimming in the thread pool :smilewinkgrin:
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
Looks like you've got a single pulley alternator now, which should jive with pretty much any 10si off the shelf in that regard. You'll want to do a 3 wire hookup rather than a 1 wire. There are plenty of write-ups about the conversion online.
 
So it should run same rpm as the one wire 90 amp? Wasnt sure if i should measure output or what, but if thats the case I can just ensure its the same size pulley. I had the right splash guard harness custom made for a 63amp 10si at their recomendation since the gauges are rated for 65 amp(acording to them). I just dont want to cook my instruments any more than they already are. :icon_cry: I have a week to work on it before a family road trip, no, not in this truck lol. May end up having to have the fuel, oil, and temp rebuilt if they were damaged. Fuel only ever went up to 1/4 tank when full, even with a new sender, temp responded to really hot days but usually never went more than 1/3 of the way up from C, oil was enemic at best but did come up after a few minutes of running.... Maybe they never climbed higher from too much amperage? Melted something maybe? Let me know if this sounds plausible, again -1 out of 10 here.
 
Don't worry too much about a 90A alternator replacing a 65A unit. They only put out as many amps as needed. In other words, if the truck needs 22 amps to go down the road, the alternator will only supply that much power. The larger unit will recharge the battery faster if its been deeply discharged, and maybe keep the lights from dimming as much at idle at night in a rain storm with the defroster on. Don't worry about the ammeter "frying" under the new alternator's power. You'll be fine. Chances are very good you'll never pull the full 65A anyway with either alternator. Not without a winch or some other killer-amp draw load.
As far as the gauges, don't give up on them yet. The grounds and wiring in general on that truck are old and crusty. When you get the new stuff on line, it'll be a much better situation.
If you want to test, go to the hardware store and get a 6v lantern battery. Feed the + to (for instance) + of the Fuel gauge. From the - post of the gauge, run an alligator clip to the fuel sender post. Then another alligator clip from the chassis of the sender to the - post of the battery. This is now completing the fuel level circuit. If you move the float, you should see the needle move.
The same test can be used for the coolant temp circuit. Start at the + side of the gauge with the + post on the battery, then go from - post of gauge to coolant temp sensor, then somehow ground the sensor body to the - post of the battery. This should produce a reading on the gauge. If not, grab a hairdryer and heat the sensor up to make the gauge move.
Let us know what you find.
 
Thank you for that info! I can work mechanics all day long its the electrics that always fry my brain(no pun intended). It never even occured to me to try and clean up the grounds, in hindsight I'm not entirely sure why. Its a metal dash truck, and its been completely repainted(painted over with roll brush lol) inside the cab, that may be part of it. Will definatly look into that as well before I put it all back. I guess I'm safe to just drop in the new 10si. First thing I did to this truck two years ago was put in a nice high end battery, and impressively enough, this thing sat for three months and fired up first go, I dont think it should make a huge difference then, the different alternator. As far as winches go, this was factory front pto and either factory or dealer winch and winch bumper. I have two Ramsey #8000s for it, one needs rebuild. Anyways I mentioned earlier I have the PTO and driveline but they arent installed since I changed to dual pipes. I was thinking about trying to convert the winches I have to either electric or hydraulic? Perhaps one at either end as well. Let me know your thoughts on that. Thanks again, updates to come!
 
I don't have time to do any work today but have enough to write up my headlight switch fix and post the pics from it. I'll try to keep this short. To start off, my trucks headlight switch likely broke years ago, see previous pics for carnage, and I needed an original switch on acount of fixing butchery and the fact that none of the interior lights worked. I got the correct knob from a salvage yard on my last road trip through Idaho, bought the switch with it, the only issue was the dimmer coil was broken to say the least. I pulled out the switch from my parts truck and the dimmer coil looked great, swapped the knobs and all was well untill I noticed one contact was missing, lost and rattling around inside the switch. I took it apart, another fell out, and I found that the slide itself was broken as well and one of its spring loaded contacts was bent up. The loose contact was there, but the staked tabs that hold it in place had broken off. Here its worth noting I'm a gunsmith by trade, and deal with staked in place parts coming loose often, so I came up with a fix. See pics for reference. Basically I cut new tabs with a sharp chisel and peened them over with a punch and VERY ginger tapping. They wiggle ever so slightly, but are tight enough to stay put. I polished the living snot out of all the things and ended up using the slide out of the other switch with the bad coil. My only fear is that because of the "restricted flow" of power due to my narrowing the tab slightly, they may heat up enough to burn the staking tabs or contact tab itself off. Time will tell, maybe this can help someone save an old switch.
 

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Scoutboy74

Moderator
Looks good, gunny. Gunsmith...mmmm. I'd suggest you leave the insanity of Cowlifornikayt behind and move up here to Oruhgawn, but this state has basically become Cali-north or Washy-south, whichever you prefer. Same difference either way. Used to be a wonderful state. Now its a sleazy sanctuary/nanny state just like where you live.
 
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