• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

1965 D1100 4x4 driver/project

Scoutboy74

Moderator
Copy. Hopefully it will behave normally. CDO?=OCD...bah, I dunno. Can't keep up with all these psycho-babble acronyms. Yeah, an FP rebuild couldn't hurt. JB weld on the carb? Oof. That's no bueno. Parts carb might be suitable following a thorough inspection and overhaul.
 
Ok, while I'm out today, I'm hoping to pick up some oil for the 304. 10w40 seems to be popular, also can anyone tell me how much this beast takes? PO told me he ran it a quart over full and I have confirmed that seems to be comon since volume not pressure is how these work(at least to my understanding). I have found the capacity for scouts but I think I read somewhere that they have a different pan? So would that effect capacity? I should just suck it up and buy a shop manual I think.
*edit on my LST factory engine is the v304E low comp export don't know if that helps
*edit again any particular brand oil or something special thats a favorite in the comunity?
 
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Scoutboy74

Moderator
Its generally 6 quarts with filter change. Run the engine a minute or so after you get 6 in, let it settle for a minute, then check your level on the stick. It won't hurt anything to be a quart over, but isn't a necessary with your oil pan. The quart over full is more of a necessity with the Scout dual sump pan. I suggest WIX/NAPA, Hastings or Baldwin brand filters. Purolator is a good option too. I'd shy away from the Fram, though. Today's off the shelf oils don't have enough ZDDP in them to adequately protect our vintage, flat tappet engines. If you can't pony up for the Swepco that IHPA offers, you should consider a diesel rated oil in the 15W-40 rating. Not a perfect solution, but they are safe to run in gas engines. There are ZDDP additives that you can add along with conventional motor oil, but that has us Joe Shadetree trying to play backyard chemist. Will you get the ratio right? Too much ZDDP can be as bad as not enough. If you've never heard of this, its a real thing. Just google ZDDP and you'll come up with enough reading to make your eyes bleed.
 
I'm glad you mentioned that about zddp, nearly forgot that. So it sounds like IHPA has a formulated oil for these engines? If so I will research it before I buy anything. Just didn't occur to me to look. I already have a new wix filter cartridge. I was going to add a bottle of rislone and drain an equivalent amount of oil to try and get the lifter noise to go away before I changed the oil.
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/SWEPCO-ENGOIL-306.html

Short for Southwestern Petroleum Company. It ain't cheap, but it has what these old engines need without having to do any hocus pocus or mumbo jumbo. Just pour it in and forget it. There is also a sub-heading in the tech forum where the SWEPCO sales rep has posted a lot of information about lubricants in general. We didn't have to worry about this crap until about 15 years ago. Its all been done under the guise of protecting catalytic converters, with the unintended, or perhaps intended side effect of prematurely damaging older engines.
 
Thanks for the link, I think I may go with this. I don't mind spending that much on oil if I know its going to help the old valve tappets out. Oil is important anyways, when my wallet starts crying I'll tell it its like buying nice tires or something.
 
Sigh...... Three days of foiled plans and a sprained elbow later..... I've quadruple checked EVERYTHING and I think I'm ready to try this again. Attached pic is of my original radio harness, 5 amp fuse, original speaker still under the dash, and original receiver antenna, any idea if theres a modernish radio I could plug and play into this? No idea if that antenna can receive FM as well as AM :idea:
Hopefully small enough to hide while still being semi accessible (good luck to myself on that). Honestly I would be fine just finding an original to put back in if I knew a make/model. That said I like music more than talk radio accept for the times I like talk radio more :crazy:
 

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Scoutboy74

Moderator
Google Retrosound or something similar. The antenna and coax will pick up both am and fm. Have you examined the dash speaker? Usually the voice coil material on those ancient relics has rotted away to doll rags by now. Not exactly hi fidelity sound from one puny little speaker anyway. It won't be loud and clear enough to overcome combined engine and road noise.
 
Ok, so a bit of trouble shooting later:

Wipers done
Horn done(horn itself bad temporary switch wired)
Marker light wire done (not working)
Backup light wire done (not working)
Ammeter works properly
Oil press works properly
Fuel and temp unknown
Signals not done
Dome light not working(issues known(ground/missing horn fuse))
Tail lights not working
Brake lights not working

Ok, being that Ive put the marker and backup lights on the unused "clear marker" slot, that gets power from the "tail" slot, I'm tracing that back to my HL switch (the one I repaired :cryin: ) so I've ordered a repro replacement. The only one I could find is identical on classic industries, aparently its a 1957-1963 GM part lol. I have also tested the tail leads that I didn't replace and they are ok, the lights themselves could probably be grounded better even though they used to work. The good news is that things that previously didnt work now do (panel lights/dimmer, parking lights, wipers(switch is sketchy), and gauges. I suspect temp will work since I havent run it for more than 5 minutes at a time for testing, and also for fuel to work since it reads empty and the tank is almost empty. Just to make a note here so I wont forget I don't think the hi beam indicator light worked, couldn't see well (likely just a bad bulb(I had a tub of miscellaneous random bulbs from under the seat, the ones I removed, and the ash tray)). Will be back once I have the replacement switch! Stay tunned for Hecho en Mexico, unreasonable frustration from simply fixed problems, and hunting for a working horn! :icon_rotate:
 
AAAHA!!!!! So the three wires on my diagram I have for tail end lights are one to HL switch(marker) and two to a single terminal of the brake switch; in addition my signal connector(6 terminal) only has 3 poles filled on my diagram. I noticed this morning that the signal switch plug has all 6 terminals full...... Manny hours of sweaty continuity testing later, I have found:
1 pole to flasher
2 poles to left/right front sig/inds respective of side
2 poles to circuit 115 and 117(brake light wires)
1 pole to brake switch

An hour of not so sweaty research later I found out that aparently the signal switch disconnects the needed rear wire from the brake switch circuit! So I just need to figure out wich witch is wich on my signal switch. Yeesh.
And let me reiterate: NONE OF THIS IS ON THE DIAGRAM!?!? :mad2: in other news, I now have a working horn, some incompetent forgot to plug the relay in. :out: the sound reminds me of a VW Beetle for some reason but I don't care, it works. :crazy:
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
Not the original steering wheel. I didn't notice that before. I wonder if the steering column is original or a swapped in piece? Got a pic of the interior of your parts truck? Comparison and contrast might be interesting.
 
I know it wasnt orriginal but seriously? See pics
I guess they do say the Benze is hard to beat, but I didnt think they meant for spare parts!?! Is that cap a ceiling fan hanger cover?!? Aaaahhh...... Sherman, you issuey buddy.....
 

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This is a pick of a 1968 rust bucket I took for reference before I bought this truck, its slightly different than this ones original wheel but I believe the columns are the same or similar.
 

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Scoutboy74

Moderator
That column doesn't look quite right to me. By "right" I mean original to the truck. The turn signal lever is much shorter and the knob much smaller than the levers/knobs I've seen in mid-60's IH trucks. The one in the '68 you posted for comparison is exactly what you would expect to see in a '65 also. I don't know what that column is from, perhaps a later D-series Pickall, but that might well explain the discrepancy you've noted regarding the number of circuits in your turn signal switch versus what is depicted in the wiring diagram.
 
I think it is from a d series, or atleast thats been my on going theory. The diagram shows the plug diferently than it actually is on the new wire, and its a 6 pole plug. 7 wire switch, I think I may be able to get it to work problem is when I continuity tested it for the brake circuit disconect, left disconects when signalling left but signalling right disconects both. Remember, Its a rag joint column, in a ridged column type truck because of the body lift. Also I have half an original column or atleast original looking, its from a 62 pu. I was hoping to build a rag joint type column out of it but tbh I have no idea what a good option is or even if I have the right parts. I also have a wheel, its the 4 spoke kind but I prefer it to the 2 spoke.
*edit
Maybe a scout 80/800 column would work as a starting point for a setup with a pwr steer box? Same era maybe same signal switch and wheel as original?
 
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Scoutboy74

Moderator
I'm going to try and help you reconcile your turn signal wiring. I don't have a diagram for your truck, but I do have access to a Scout 800 diagram, which should be close enough. They use the same gauges, steering wheel, turn signal knob and probably most if not all of the same wiring circuits as the full size rigs of similar vintage.
Please let me know if what follows jives or doesn't with what you're seeing.

From left to right on the diagram...
461-18 goes to the hot side of the right turn dash indicator bulb.
116-18 goes via the front harness to the hot side of the front, right turn (bright filament).
(461 and 116 naturally originate from the same connector terminal).
117-18 goes via the rear harness to the hot side of the rear, right brake/turn (bright filament).
463-18 comes from one terminal of the brake light switch. The opposite switch terminal has 22-18 attached which comes from a constant hot battery distribution point that is attached to, but not actuated by the headlight switch. Important distinction there.
118-18 comes from one side of the turn sig flasher. The opposite flash terminal has 118A-16 connected, which is a power source originating from the ignition switch and interrupted by a 14amp fuse in the block.
115-18 goes via the rear harness to the hot side of the rear, left brake/turn (bright filament).
460-18 goes to the hot side of the left turn dash indicator bulb.
114-18 goes via the front harness to the hot side of the front, left turn (bright filament).
(460 and 114 naturally originate from the same connector terminal).
 
Im a professional amateur artist btw :icon_razz:
Important note, in the right side of my drawing where i wrote left I meant right.... Its been a long day lol
*edit I have the wiring figured out, Im just trying to figure out the switch. I'm also considering changing the column back to original look at this point.
 

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Scoutboy74

Moderator
Ok. Well, the innards of that TSS look super-corroded and nasty like Shmucky Shmoomer and Ansty in the Pantsy Pelosi have been fornicating inside there for decades. Many issues with rear signal/brake light interaction stem from either very dirty or broken TSS contacts.
 
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