1965 D1100 4x4 driver/project

The stock radiators are copper core. My "beer can" reference is just a tongue in cheek nod to the material the aftermarket aluminum radiators are made from. I have one in my Scout II. So far its working well. I did have to make modifications to my core support for added clearance to get it to fit the way it should have fit right out of the box with no modifications. It was worth it, though. The integrated trans cooler is for auto trans, not manual. If you can get the SII unit to fit well, that would be an option. The SII core size is smaller than what you'd see in a D-line and probably an upright c-line radiator as well, which translates to less surface for heat exchange. The aluminum radiator in my Scout seems to be capable of keeping my 392 under control. I've got a shroud in place and a new Hayden HD fan clutch, both are big parts of the over all equation.
 
Aahhh yes the good ol recycled material reference. Well, it did say replaces oem for 70-80sumthin scout and truck and thats what I got now. I reckon this is what I will go with then, mod the shroud aaaand should I have a fan clutch? I think mine is direct drive, or atleast I always assumed it was lol. I'll post up my mod here and If I can get it to bolt up to the front facia I'll post it under fabrication as well. Atleast its IH pattern, if I could afford it I would suck it up and get a legit IH part. Another thing I just realized is that my original upper cast iron pipe has been replaced with one likely that wouldve gone with this rad. Its the only visible goop-a-gasket. I assume thats where the thermo goes...... Maybe I should make sure theres actually one in there.
 
Well, that isn't exactly correct. Perhaps a misrepresentation by the vendor. The Scout II radiator and D-line radiator, though they are both cross flow, are not the same part. The core size is different as I noted earlier and there may be some other subtle differences with inlet/outlet fitting orientation. In other words, not interchangeable. Yes, you should check on your t-stat. Not having one would be a no-no. Having one without the by-pass block off feature is also ill-advised. It would be good to know exactly what is in there, what the set point of it is and if it is still functional.
 
Mental shoping lists fail me often, since I'm going to be draining the coolant I might as well fix the heater(here we go into can o' worms syndrome). While the coolant is out:
1 fix the seized heater valve
While the heater is out
2 Repair seized controls
3 replace fire wall padding
4 add sound dampening material
5 replace 50 grit carpet and add more sound dampening material
6 before all that might as well tear apart dash in general, pad my wire with a ratty pair of jeans and cut out the rust
7 primer/patch the hole
8 fix anything else I find along the way
9 add new hoses
10 replace the thermo anyways
11 water pump rebuid(y teh heck not at this point?)
12 git er done :icon_rotate: :icon_rotate: :icon_rotate:
 
Coolant loss is fairly minimal where heater hose and control valve replacement are concerned. Those can be tackled at any time, but certainly before one really needs to restore full function of a non-working heater/defroster. Replacing the lower radiator hose involves the most coolant loss, so you would certainly want to have that addressed before a new batch of coolant was installed. Water pumps...yeah we don't really rebuild those in the IH realm. If they're working, we keep running them. If they fail, or we have good reason to suspect they will soon fail, we replace them with a new one.
 
Duely noted on the pump. Ill look for wobble or play. Im going to be pulling the entire rad, so might as well do the heater/all hoses/thermo and not have to mess around with coolant again. Ill need to find the flexible ducting that goes from that box with the defrost vent up to the dash vents, likely a new heater valve, hopefully the core is ok. Im also going to do a prayer/voodoo dance that the inside of the heater box isn't rotten.
 
Most auto parts stores carry the defrost duct hose in 2" and 3" diameters. Some sell it in bulk by the foot. Others have pre-cut chunks, so knowing how much you need in advance is a good idea. The new stuff, being vinyl is less susceptible to rot than the original fabric version.
 
Quick question before I forget, (yes I'm oficially an IH addict now) what are the important things to look for when prospecting a scout 80 project? Where the hidden rust spots are ect? I've always wanted a jeep for a more local hunting rig, but so far I'm loving the way IH builds stuff, and frankly, I prefer the asthetics of the scout 80. I may have an oportunity to look at one in the near future, not that I can aford one atm, but would be a cool future project.
 
Wheel wells, floors, body mounts, windshield frame, anywhere where mud and forest litter can be spun up by the tires and trapped in a non-sealed crev-ass behind any of the wheels, the side-saddle fuel tank wells.
Scout 80 bugaboos...about the same as any other vintage vehicle that has most likely not been well maintained in the past decade or more and has also been subject to all sorts of unspeakable PO molestations. ELECTRICAL & FUEL SYSTEM GREMLINS. But, you've dealt with all that shit before, so its just another routine day at the office for you.
 
So I be formulating a cheat sheet/shopping list for parts, got to thermostat and found out aparently theres 160, 180 and 195 degree? Wich witch is wich? I imagine some perform better in different climates? Maybe different setups?
 
I've always been partial to the 195 setpoint. 180 isn't bad. I don't really see much use for the 160 with these engines.
 
Here Scoutboy, this will make you happy I think :gringrin:
Cant have any more jokes on account of my tiny air filter.
 

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In other news, I may have found a possible solution to my impossible column/wheel problem. While staring/drooling at a pile of airfilter housings taller than me, (6' even), I tripped over a scout 800 column. :crazy: First thing that caught my eyes after they stopped rattling around in my head was the 2 spoke wheel like my trucks original, next was the fact that it was a ragjoint type upper half, and lastly the other end of my new wirings signal plug. :yesnod: :yesnod: At a bare minimum, atleast I can get the original 2 spoke wheel. Maybe even get lucky with that 4 spoke I have. New rad is in the mail, that along with the heater/new firewall pad will be the next project. Also, a factory optioned tierod skid plate that IHPA just happened to have lying around, with the horizontal shock thingy. Next up after that will be some gaskets and suspension work. On a side note, anybody know a good thread regarding the 304 under boost of some kind? My machinist friend gave me a cool idea to try a 60s era mcchullock or paxton centrifugal supercharger at maybe 4-5psi bleeding edge max. I happen to have a 60s Mcchullock chainsaw that weighs around 180lbs and sounds like a harley, figure what better accessory for a tractor ehh? :winky:
*feels stupid for referencing 5-10psi as a "small" amount of boost.
Also.... I see a scout in the far and distant future....
 
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Where has this service manual been all my life? Ive confirmed most of my upgrades as 69-71 parts (included in my manual :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: ) I can now service EVERYTHING BWAHAHAHAAA!!!! Honestly this has made me like this truck even more, I now veiw it as better than stock but still "factory original," sure I know its got D line stuff on but its close enough for me. :icon_mrgreen: what I've found so far: FA-25, RA-16, power steering gear(forgot what code), and I now know a ton more about the rest of it. Well worth the purchase!
 
Okaaaaay, Ive done all the research my puny brain can handle, Ive already skimmed through my new manual and marked sectoins acording to whats needed for my rig, so now to my question: has anybody done a wheel swap on a scout 800 for the older 4 spoke wheel? Ive decided either way as long as overall length checks out to be close between the truck upper column and a scout 800 upper column, Im going to change it out. If you happen to know the length of the upper column from a scout 800 I would apreciate the info. I have a column in mind that I spotted at IHPA, Im just trying to determine if I need to scrape some extra $ together for the stock 2 spoke wheel thats attached to it. If the 4 spoke fits Im over the rainbow! Also more to come soon, the new radiator will be here tomorrow so stay tuned for more greasy mayhem! :icon_rotate:
 
Awlrighty, the next job(s) begins! And I've just realized I forgot to buy a new Tstat. :frown2: Oh well, hopefully that massive box of gaskets I bought has 2 gaskets for me to atleast check it. Since I will be installing the new radiator I want to completely flush out the old coolant so my question there is will it all drain with the bottom hose unhooked or does it sit in "pockets" within the engine? Also, the coolant capacity of a scout 2?(I think it will be similar, the only diference should be the heater core) I may try and swing by to grab another tstat at napa since I will hopefully do hoses as well, I beleive I also will have to cut/angle/reweld the upper hose on this rad because of my body lift as well as fab new brackets. Also on the adgenda is fixing ALOT of PO bandaids/butchery I've discovered via axle tech on my front axle in addition to everything else I was going to take apart with the rad. :icon_gonk: Anyways, wish me luck boys, I'm going in! :crazy:
 
Well, I just found something weird. See pics. Looks like a filler neck mount patched off on my passenger side fender??? Wouldnt be weird if it was on the other side like for dual tanks... Idk....
 

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Ewww. That is some nazdee lukin koolint. There will be some coolant and plenty of shmootz lingering inside the block. There are square head drain plugs on either side of the block, but they are generally rusted in super tight. The best way to get the hoogy and spoogy flushed out of the block is to punch out the freeze plugs, and force highly pressurized streams of water through from every possible angle, along with chucking a strategically bent coat hanger into power drill to ream the innards out in medieval fashion. The engine needs to be out of the truck for this. You can drive new freeze plugs into an installed engine, but you'll drive yourself positively bat shit crazy in the process.
 
Ohhhhhhkaaaaaaaahahahahaaaaay.... This is the last f@kin straw. I had the freeze plugs replaced, ALL of them, they seriously missed 2 of them and they couldnt even use new coolant? I want my $1500 back, since Ive had to fix almost everything else thats been done. Also is THIS formerly a drain plug(pass side)? Please say no.
How would I go about fixing this if it is what I think it is?(jbweld)
 

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