1965 D1100 4x4 driver/project

There's this...
https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/SL385485C1.html

I've also seen a beer can version on the _bay for approximately the same dinero with shipping. While the cross flow design is generally considered an improvement over the upright design, Ford continued using the same upright radiators in their light trucks from 1966 through 1977 to cool everything, including the big Kahuna 460. No, I don't mean the same one as IH. Just that Ford stuck with the same part that many years. Brand new ones can be had for a fraction of the cost of the above. Your truck originally came with an upright radiator, but there is no offering for the C series.
I have no idea how well or not the Ford rad would fit in your truck, but if I were you, I'd be hitting the wrecking yards in search of Ford trucks from '66 through '77 to grab a cheap specimen for measuring purposes. It could be a rusted out piece of swiss cheese that they pay you to take off their hands...so long as the damn thing is intact. All you'd want it for would be to see how close or not it would be to installing in your truck. If close enough, then you could buy a brand new version of the same damn thing for literally pennies on the dollar. I know your desire is to keep your truck as purely IH as possible, but sometimes you just gotta veer outside the box in the interest of pure ol damn practicality.
 
Ok, ill do some research and will post what I find. Ill probably take this one of several ways: 1. Measure up for an aftermarket replacement, 2. Figure a FoMoCo replacement, 3. Have a rad shop quote a total recore/build for this one as well as the one in the parts truck. I don't have the $ for a $500 rad. I have $ for a rad in the $50-100 range if possible :icon_mrgreen:
 
A re-core, while less than a new radiator, will still be spendy. You're not likely to find a long term solution for less than two bills. In radiators at least, the more common the offering, the more reasonable the price.
 
And nobodys found anything for a c line? If I can find a basic rad the right shape with ports in the general location I'd bet I could weld up a kit for it. Aluminum tig welding is within my capability, I have an extra fan shroud I can mod for my body lift, might as well try to find a crossflow base to work with. I will have to look at how its attached in my parts truck though, in this truck its just sitting on the frame and attached to the front facia with bailing wire, probably not sae approved...

*edit: this ones aprox 22" tall x 30" wide.
 
Ok, couple things, what other materials are available? I found all aluminum and aluminum core, i assume theres steel core? Whats most durable? Being its been said "beer can version," that doesnt sound good for durability sake. Also would 2-3-4 row make a big difference? Any idea what capacity it should be? I dont really care about trans cooler, theres one in the rad I have but its capped off. Or should it not be? :confused: and if it should be hooked up, should I be looking for a new trannny?
 
The stock radiators are copper core. My "beer can" reference is just a tongue in cheek nod to the material the aftermarket aluminum radiators are made from. I have one in my Scout II. So far its working well. I did have to make modifications to my core support for added clearance to get it to fit the way it should have fit right out of the box with no modifications. It was worth it, though. The integrated trans cooler is for auto trans, not manual. If you can get the SII unit to fit well, that would be an option. The SII core size is smaller than what you'd see in a D-line and probably an upright c-line radiator as well, which translates to less surface for heat exchange. The aluminum radiator in my Scout seems to be capable of keeping my 392 under control. I've got a shroud in place and a new Hayden HD fan clutch, both are big parts of the over all equation.
 
Aahhh yes the good ol recycled material reference. Well, it did say replaces oem for 70-80sumthin scout and truck and thats what I got now. I reckon this is what I will go with then, mod the shroud aaaand should I have a fan clutch? I think mine is direct drive, or atleast I always assumed it was lol. I'll post up my mod here and If I can get it to bolt up to the front facia I'll post it under fabrication as well. Atleast its IH pattern, if I could afford it I would suck it up and get a legit IH part. Another thing I just realized is that my original upper cast iron pipe has been replaced with one likely that wouldve gone with this rad. Its the only visible goop-a-gasket. I assume thats where the thermo goes...... Maybe I should make sure theres actually one in there.
 
Well, that isn't exactly correct. Perhaps a misrepresentation by the vendor. The Scout II radiator and D-line radiator, though they are both cross flow, are not the same part. The core size is different as I noted earlier and there may be some other subtle differences with inlet/outlet fitting orientation. In other words, not interchangeable. Yes, you should check on your t-stat. Not having one would be a no-no. Having one without the by-pass block off feature is also ill-advised. It would be good to know exactly what is in there, what the set point of it is and if it is still functional.
 
Mental shoping lists fail me often, since I'm going to be draining the coolant I might as well fix the heater(here we go into can o' worms syndrome). While the coolant is out:
1 fix the seized heater valve
While the heater is out
2 Repair seized controls
3 replace fire wall padding
4 add sound dampening material
5 replace 50 grit carpet and add more sound dampening material
6 before all that might as well tear apart dash in general, pad my wire with a ratty pair of jeans and cut out the rust
7 primer/patch the hole
8 fix anything else I find along the way
9 add new hoses
10 replace the thermo anyways
11 water pump rebuid(y teh heck not at this point?)
12 git er done :icon_rotate: :icon_rotate: :icon_rotate:
 
Coolant loss is fairly minimal where heater hose and control valve replacement are concerned. Those can be tackled at any time, but certainly before one really needs to restore full function of a non-working heater/defroster. Replacing the lower radiator hose involves the most coolant loss, so you would certainly want to have that addressed before a new batch of coolant was installed. Water pumps...yeah we don't really rebuild those in the IH realm. If they're working, we keep running them. If they fail, or we have good reason to suspect they will soon fail, we replace them with a new one.
 
Duely noted on the pump. Ill look for wobble or play. Im going to be pulling the entire rad, so might as well do the heater/all hoses/thermo and not have to mess around with coolant again. Ill need to find the flexible ducting that goes from that box with the defrost vent up to the dash vents, likely a new heater valve, hopefully the core is ok. Im also going to do a prayer/voodoo dance that the inside of the heater box isn't rotten.
 
Most auto parts stores carry the defrost duct hose in 2" and 3" diameters. Some sell it in bulk by the foot. Others have pre-cut chunks, so knowing how much you need in advance is a good idea. The new stuff, being vinyl is less susceptible to rot than the original fabric version.
 
Quick question before I forget, (yes I'm oficially an IH addict now) what are the important things to look for when prospecting a scout 80 project? Where the hidden rust spots are ect? I've always wanted a jeep for a more local hunting rig, but so far I'm loving the way IH builds stuff, and frankly, I prefer the asthetics of the scout 80. I may have an oportunity to look at one in the near future, not that I can aford one atm, but would be a cool future project.
 
Wheel wells, floors, body mounts, windshield frame, anywhere where mud and forest litter can be spun up by the tires and trapped in a non-sealed crev-ass behind any of the wheels, the side-saddle fuel tank wells.
Scout 80 bugaboos...about the same as any other vintage vehicle that has most likely not been well maintained in the past decade or more and has also been subject to all sorts of unspeakable PO molestations. ELECTRICAL & FUEL SYSTEM GREMLINS. But, you've dealt with all that shit before, so its just another routine day at the office for you.
 
So I be formulating a cheat sheet/shopping list for parts, got to thermostat and found out aparently theres 160, 180 and 195 degree? Wich witch is wich? I imagine some perform better in different climates? Maybe different setups?
 
I've always been partial to the 195 setpoint. 180 isn't bad. I don't really see much use for the 160 with these engines.
 
Here Scoutboy, this will make you happy I think :gringrin:
Cant have any more jokes on account of my tiny air filter.
 

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