• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

1965 D1100 4x4 driver/project

Anybody have a favorite analog/mechanical water temp gauge? Im going to do the setup with the threaded T splice in the heater hose and have been looking around at different gauge heads and hate them all because they match neither whats in the dash now or the other gauges I want to add. This may be where my cdo....(*strains) OCD... Has to die :crazy: anyways, I read through another thread on a round body and cant remember where it was, but whoever it belonged to had this link:
http://www.umainstruments.com
I found several I like for addons, but all their water temp gauges use that fancy ectricaltricity voodoo magic.
On another note, coming soon: t-case overhaul kit. Coming sooner, the luckiest find ever, a NOS Ranco H16 heater valve in the box for a REDICULOUSLY GOOD price!
 
Onto the big fix: I uncovered the top plate for the first time, looks like a T98, or a t18, but considering the trucks matching engine and likely original t-case, I doubt its a t18.


Along the way I un bolted this add-on crossmember, no idea what the thinking behind this thing was, maybe theres a legit purpose? Who knows!


This bit of flexable material was a "shim" between the cross member and t-case. I will only be able to remove this once the t-case is out of the way on account of brake line and exhaust. Also pulled the two remaining drive lines and looked at the needle bearings in their cups.... Dont think they're supposed to be flat sided.... Anyways, the fact that the rear line is shorter than the front seems odd to me for some reason. Both the other splines have a bit of play, not as bad as the front was.

I also realized something that could potentially be a disaster waiting to happen, could the fact that my exhaust goes right next to my t-case over heat it?

Please tell me I'm worrying about nothing, I swear to God If I have to replace this too, I wont be paying for the replacement..... :mad5:
The tranny and T-case are fully unhooked, drivelines, speedo cable, and shifter, I just need to find a muscle bound minion willing to work for free to help me remove them :D
 
So I removed the transfer case finally, The method consisted of a muscle bound minion(in this case I subbed because I couldn't find one) and a floor jack operator. I was unable to completely remove the addon cross member but managed with the following: the jack on ply wood underneath facing vehicle front, me sitting with my head between t-case and tranny, and arguably one of my stupider and less thought out inventions ever:

Once it floated free of the mounts, I teatered it as operator slid it toward me, it finally cleared and we lowered it with the drive yolk about an inch from my nose and my head against the back of the tranny.

"And that was without a single drop of rum."
-Captain Jack Sparrow

Drained the oil, was expecting it to be worse:

The mounts are toast, more po shims were there in an atempt to take up the space. In a true stroke of brilliance, someone put the new exhaust exactly too high to allow the mounting bolts out :cryin:

 

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New problem found today, while I was scrubbing gunk off of my t-case, my truck had been chugachugachuga in the background running my radiator flush. I looked in at a leak I had been monitoring in the t-stat housing, and by chance looked down and noticed the frame was moist right next to the exhaust manifold passenger side, the grime looked like it had been "rained on" dimpled from drops. If you've ever seen deep powdery dust get sprinkled on you know what I mean. Well, then a drop flew out from under the exhaust manifold onto it, then another, and another. Sticking my head in the wheel well sourced it quick enough, smelled like gas and my fuel pump was all wet. Sure enough every couple seconds it spurted out a drop onto the frame rail. Time for a rebuild.... Actually.... Time for ANOTHER rebuild since Im already doing 4 or 5.

Spurting fuel comes from the pocket straight right of the 4 in 304 in this picture:
 

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New shoes just arrived! Thanks to Michael @ IHPA for pointing me in the right direction, otherwise I may never have found these. Theyre 16x8" and 8 on 6.5" lug patern and fit great! They will get paired with some BFG KO2 tires in LT315/75R16. Now Ive just got to fix that darn pitman arm rubbing issue.... :idea:


 

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*Christmas update! Likely nobody will see this but whatever. Got my T-case kit finally, fuel pump kit on the way, more to come on that, sooner or later I should have 4 new tires :D come January I'll be back in the saddle again but in regards to wrenching not driving lol

 

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Eeeeeeeeeegaaaaaad this is taking forever. Ok, fuel pump is rebuilt, need to install it, and I've got to go grab a replacement fuel filter before I can continue the rad flush, freezing temps not helping either. In regards to the t-case, I'm closing in on cracking it open, once I'm satisfied with the engine flush I will remove the tranny and pull the fly wheel to replace those plugs, then imidiatly put it back. On side note, is there even enough room in the bell housing to do that? I might be sick if I end up having to pull the engine out. :yikes: While the tranny is out I'll rebuild it, and keep running the engine periodically to keep them precious cam bearings lubed up. Somewhere in there I'll be restoring that heater body, and about a billion other things :crazy: anyways, np202 rebuild thread to come, probs one for the t98 as well. Open to any and all tips/tricks for either of those.
Lastly: if you've ever tried to fix a leak, and ended up restoring half your car, go ahead and tell me about it briefly here so I dont feel so alone :lol:
 
Quick update on the beast, the transfer case is fully torn down and ready for paint prep(follow the rebuild here: https://forums.ihpartsamerica.com/showthread.php?t=14191 ) the rad flush is at a stand still, I can't put the flush in if its going to freeze so I've been waiting for some non washameaway type rain to prevent freeze and do the next round over the course of a few days. Unfortunately when it rains it seemingly floods if not swamps here in Commiefornikate. The heater box was the next part I was going to tackle but in an unfortunate turn of events in a fairly long story involving atleast 3 skunks, a 12 ga, two terrified manecoon cats, and my barn, its now well splattered in skunk juice :cryin: as is most everything else up there. (You thought I blasted it for a second didnt you? :crazy: ) so its safe to say for sake of my health, the project is on hold. In other news the new tires I ordered for Christmas are still backordered!?! I may send the other two drivelines out for a repair quote soon as well. Other than that, follow the progress on the np202 if you're curious what's going on and next you see it here it will look shinny new and I'll be removing a t98 to do the same to it.
 

rustyiron

New member
I started about a month ago with a '69 F250 2x4 that needed front wheel cylinders and some oil leaks plugged. Now I have the body stripped off of the '69, a 1971 4x4 chassis, a new cab, and a new bed. And a paint job in the works. I haven't even done anything mechanical to the 71's t-case or axles yet! I just use your thread as a preview of what I'm gonna run into. Once I finish the Ford then (maybe) I'll embark on messing with this.:crazy: A 1966 C1300 4x4 with a 304 that hasn't been run in 20 or so years.
 

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Haha yea that one looks pretty crusty! Yup. Can O' Worms INC. Been rainy here in cali (go figure) so havent been progressing too much. I just paid a visit to the barn earlier today and found out there was so much water in the bed it has a high/low tide cycle. Finally got a screw driver to dig the dirt out of the crack up front between the wall and floor(hoped the water would find a way out), then found yet another floor under this one which I then proceeded to stab clean through to cause this:



I'll tell you what thats one of the best grills I've seen(what i can see of it) besides mine and one other 66. Looks like it will be fun, hopefully you dont find rust as depressing as I do lol.
 

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So uh, this awkward moment has happened, when I finally got the fuel system buttoned up, then when I was about to start it, I realized it hasnt turned since December 1st. :mad2: And so I ordered a priming tool, wich somehow arrived the next day (looks to be great quality) find it here: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/IHENG-OPDT.html
Anyways, before I go yanking apart my dizzy, Would sitting around for 2 1/2 months warrant this? Or am I paranoid? The fact that this thing has cam bearings at all after its previous owners is amazing.
 

Scoutboy74

Moderator
In this case, you are being paranoid. A couple months is nothing. The residual oil coating/film deposited the last time the engine ran doesn't just drop off overnight. When the dormant interval is easily counted in weeks and months, there's no need to pre-lube. When you start hitting years, that's when it becomes a good precaution.
 
Throwing some pics up just because. I'm trying to learn the basics of u-joints and yokes; figured I'd bring this thread along for the ride. Ive found so far aparently the 429 U-joint is fairly common, fortunately for me, since the needle bearings in mine are flat sided in there. To give y'all a perspective to how bad these are, the cups themselves take a good forcefull twist to move, the ones that do come off wobble, and the joints all seem relatively glued in a fixed position on the drive lines.


In regards to yokes, my rear output yoke on the t-case was broken, so I sourced a replacement. It has the same casting #, but apears to not quite fit right.


Old vs new. Funny thing is, all the old ones are the same, theres a small # inside of each yoke cast in thats different on each one. 1, 5, and 7 are the originals, and the nos yoke is a 3. Shouldnt make any difference. The nos yoke does have the old finish on it, that might make a difference idk.
 

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ALL HAIL THE GLORIOUS IH PICK-ALL MASTER-KEY!!!
Seriously though, I spent way too much time doing this. Theres only one problem: I couldn't find a binder big enough to stuff the parts manual in there too. :crazy:
For any neat freaks like me out there wondering I broke it down with two sets of tabs, large and small. The large mark Vol 1 and 2, and also things in the back for reciepts, parts literature, LSTs and such. The smaller tabs mark parts of the manual by catagory:
-Axles/Hubs
-Cab/Body/Dash/Doors/Glass/Regulators
-Hydraulics: Brakes/Clutch/Master Unit
-Wiring/Alternator/Ignition/Starter
-Engine/Frame
-Intake/Fuel Delivery
-Suspension/Power Steering
-Trans/T-case
 

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I'VE COME BACK TO LI.. Eerrr, I've gone back to work. Meanwhile my tires died. RIP surplus HMMWV tires, you served your country, and my truck well.... Atleast probably.... At some point...

Lucky my new tires back ordered from Christmas 2018 showed up last mont :mad2:


The bumper is now sitting about 1.5" higher than it did previously, and new 16" rims look great. Havent decided if I like the idea of the early 70s hubcaps with cutouts or not. Currently I'm formulating my plan for this winter, wich may or may not involve a large tent, sound deadening insulation, and rust repair; meanwhile in a garage not so far away, this happened:



Brace for an update to the NP202 thread. The only things remaining are the two original and one nos yolks, they degunked almost effortlessly in acetone (WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE???) leaving a crusty cast part thats grease and paint free. Only issue is the acetone doesnt dissolve the residual dirt, leaving it stuck like a film in every hard to brush corner. Apart from that, hardware. I cant stand painted threads/bolts, the minute I put a wrench on it: gone. So I open the question; readers? Any hardware coatings that look good and dont deteriorate? (One that doesnt involve replacing every nut and bolt with zinc coated)
In other news, many new and crusty parts were aquired including a scout 800a ragjoint column, used tank selector switch assembly, crack/jb-plauge free 2300 carb, and a very expensive giant box of rubber molding. Alot of possibility of what I can get done this winter depending on how much time I have, so stay tuned for continued mayhem, rust, roadgrime, and damaged sanity :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:
 

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