1965 D1100 4x4 driver/project
- Thread starter Gunfighter97
- Start date
Scoutboy74
Moderator
That's a big'n 
Gunfighter97
Member
In other news, I may have found a possible solution to my impossible column/wheel problem. While staring/drooling at a pile of airfilter housings taller than me, (6' even), I tripped over a scout 800 column. 
First thing that caught my eyes after they stopped rattling around in my head was the 2 spoke wheel like my trucks original, next was the fact that it was a ragjoint type upper half, and lastly the other end of my new wirings signal plug. 
At a bare minimum, atleast I can get the original 2 spoke wheel. Maybe even get lucky with that 4 spoke I have. New rad is in the mail, that along with the heater/new firewall pad will be the next project. Also, a factory optioned tierod skid plate that IHPA just happened to have lying around, with the horizontal shock thingy. Next up after that will be some gaskets and suspension work. On a side note, anybody know a good thread regarding the 304 under boost of some kind? My machinist friend gave me a cool idea to try a 60s era mcchullock or paxton centrifugal supercharger at maybe 4-5psi bleeding edge max. I happen to have a 60s Mcchullock chainsaw that weighs around 180lbs and sounds like a harley, figure what better accessory for a tractor ehh? 
*feels stupid for referencing 5-10psi as a "small" amount of boost.
Also.... I see a scout in the far and distant future....
First thing that caught my eyes after they stopped rattling around in my head was the 2 spoke wheel like my trucks original, next was the fact that it was a ragjoint type upper half, and lastly the other end of my new wirings signal plug. At a bare minimum, atleast I can get the original 2 spoke wheel. Maybe even get lucky with that 4 spoke I have. New rad is in the mail, that along with the heater/new firewall pad will be the next project. Also, a factory optioned tierod skid plate that IHPA just happened to have lying around, with the horizontal shock thingy. Next up after that will be some gaskets and suspension work. On a side note, anybody know a good thread regarding the 304 under boost of some kind? My machinist friend gave me a cool idea to try a 60s era mcchullock or paxton centrifugal supercharger at maybe 4-5psi bleeding edge max. I happen to have a 60s Mcchullock chainsaw that weighs around 180lbs and sounds like a harley, figure what better accessory for a tractor ehh? *feels stupid for referencing 5-10psi as a "small" amount of boost.
Also.... I see a scout in the far and distant future....
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Gunfighter97
Member
Where has this service manual been all my life? Ive confirmed most of my upgrades as 69-71 parts (included in my manual 
) I can now service EVERYTHING BWAHAHAHAAA!!!! Honestly this has made me like this truck even more, I now veiw it as better than stock but still "factory original," sure I know its got D line stuff on but its close enough for me. what I've found so far: FA-25, RA-16, power steering gear(forgot what code), and I now know a ton more about the rest of it. Well worth the purchase!
) I can now service EVERYTHING BWAHAHAHAAA!!!! Honestly this has made me like this truck even more, I now veiw it as better than stock but still "factory original," sure I know its got D line stuff on but its close enough for me. what I've found so far: FA-25, RA-16, power steering gear(forgot what code), and I now know a ton more about the rest of it. Well worth the purchase!
Gunfighter97
Member
Okaaaaay, Ive done all the research my puny brain can handle, Ive already skimmed through my new manual and marked sectoins acording to whats needed for my rig, so now to my question: has anybody done a wheel swap on a scout 800 for the older 4 spoke wheel? Ive decided either way as long as overall length checks out to be close between the truck upper column and a scout 800 upper column, Im going to change it out. If you happen to know the length of the upper column from a scout 800 I would apreciate the info. I have a column in mind that I spotted at IHPA, Im just trying to determine if I need to scrape some extra $ together for the stock 2 spoke wheel thats attached to it. If the 4 spoke fits Im over the rainbow! Also more to come soon, the new radiator will be here tomorrow so stay tuned for more greasy mayhem! 
Gunfighter97
Member
Awlrighty, the next job(s) begins! And I've just realized I forgot to buy a new Tstat. 
Oh well, hopefully that massive box of gaskets I bought has 2 gaskets for me to atleast check it. Since I will be installing the new radiator I want to completely flush out the old coolant so my question there is will it all drain with the bottom hose unhooked or does it sit in "pockets" within the engine? Also, the coolant capacity of a scout 2?(I think it will be similar, the only diference should be the heater core) I may try and swing by to grab another tstat at napa since I will hopefully do hoses as well, I beleive I also will have to cut/angle/reweld the upper hose on this rad because of my body lift as well as fab new brackets. Also on the adgenda is fixing ALOT of PO bandaids/butchery I've discovered via axle tech on my front axle in addition to everything else I was going to take apart with the rad. 
Anyways, wish me luck boys, I'm going in!
Oh well, hopefully that massive box of gaskets I bought has 2 gaskets for me to atleast check it. Since I will be installing the new radiator I want to completely flush out the old coolant so my question there is will it all drain with the bottom hose unhooked or does it sit in "pockets" within the engine? Also, the coolant capacity of a scout 2?(I think it will be similar, the only diference should be the heater core) I may try and swing by to grab another tstat at napa since I will hopefully do hoses as well, I beleive I also will have to cut/angle/reweld the upper hose on this rad because of my body lift as well as fab new brackets. Also on the adgenda is fixing ALOT of PO bandaids/butchery I've discovered via axle tech on my front axle in addition to everything else I was going to take apart with the rad. Anyways, wish me luck boys, I'm going in!
Gunfighter97
Member
Gunfighter97
Member
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Ewww. That is some nazdee lukin koolint. There will be some coolant and plenty of shmootz lingering inside the block. There are square head drain plugs on either side of the block, but they are generally rusted in super tight. The best way to get the hoogy and spoogy flushed out of the block is to punch out the freeze plugs, and force highly pressurized streams of water through from every possible angle, along with chucking a strategically bent coat hanger into power drill to ream the innards out in medieval fashion. The engine needs to be out of the truck for this. You can drive new freeze plugs into an installed engine, but you'll drive yourself positively bat shit crazy in the process.
Gunfighter97
Member
Ohhhhhhkaaaaaaaahahahahaaaaay.... This is the last f@kin straw. I had the freeze plugs replaced, ALL of them, they seriously missed 2 of them and they couldnt even use new coolant? I want my $1500 back, since Ive had to fix almost everything else thats been done. Also is THIS formerly a drain plug(pass side)? Please say no.
How would I go about fixing this if it is what I think it is?(jbweld)
How would I go about fixing this if it is what I think it is?(jbweld)
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Scoutboy74
Moderator
Maybe. Hard to tell with all the grease. I doubt the shop recycled your coolant, but even fresh bug joos will contaminate quickly if the cooling passages inside the block aren't well flushed out first.
Gunfighter97
Member
Well, Idk how ima fix it but I dont want to leave it un fixed. Some how or another Ive gotta flush out the block. I had a chat with my shop so for the time being my fix is on hold and Im taking ir down there tomorow. I filtered the coolant on the way back in with a shop towel.
Gunfighter97
Member
Well, the shop is now under new management come to find out the mechanic that did my truck got both the proverbial and literal boot long ago. They agreed to correct the brake line issue in front and install a clutch slave cyl and the wheel cylinder they never replaced for free with two day time limit so Im happy enough. I don't want to fool with the freeze plugs right now, so Ima try a fix from a friend in flushing the block via bottom hose disconect and hose water, a gallon of simple green, run up to optemp and then flush again before install of my new radiator.
Gunfighter97
Member
Ok, got the truck back, my clutch is now 110% better with the new slave, and they custom made rubber front brake hoses that go all the way from frame to hub, brakes are still nice and hard right at the top so I'm happy. In other news I may have a shot at a pile of IH nos service parts, so look out for that. Will most likely all be Farmall parts but you never know, I'm sure this forum can absorb all of it if needed, and also help id if necessary.
Dealbreaker74
Member
Good news about the shop un-f****ing that terrible work. It was shameful, really.
Simple Green cuts grease, not rust. Use CLR, but don't leave it in for weeks...It'll eat the hoses. Drive it around for a day or so with it in the cooling system, then flush. Refill with de-ionized water from the supermarket. Plus whatever ratio of antifreeze you're comfortable with.
Glad to hear this project is pointed in the right direction again. Keep the updates coming!
Simple Green cuts grease, not rust. Use CLR, but don't leave it in for weeks...It'll eat the hoses. Drive it around for a day or so with it in the cooling system, then flush. Refill with de-ionized water from the supermarket. Plus whatever ratio of antifreeze you're comfortable with.
Glad to hear this project is pointed in the right direction again. Keep the updates coming!
Gunfighter97
Member
Full advice was run simple green, flushing, and a rust preventing additive in the new coolant. If you think clr works better i will do that. Just dont want to screw up my shiny new rad. Im going to need capacity estimate on this thing as well. Since the block drain is pluged and not fixable anytime soon I will have to flush with distilled water. Sii radiator but otherwise stock
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Back in the days before nanny-state-ism really took hold, the chemicals you could get in prestone radiator flush kits were actually caustic enough to do a good job at loosening rust and scale. Imagine that if you will...a product that actually did what it was advertised to do. So what if had carcinogens? Anyway, the store bought rad flushes of today are all pretty much citrus based. They'll loosen a small percentage, but too much will be left behind. I would also agree that CLR might be more effective in this case than simple green. Simple is a great product, it just might not be the best tool for this job. But I would want to make sure it's safe for aluminum before I used it.
Gunfighter97
Member
Well according to G@@gle, clr should NOT be used on alluminum. I think In my case I will go with the simple green for cleaning and a rust inhibitor in the new coolant. The new rad has a 5 year warranty, I would rather not risk the clr not liking my heater core. The coolant I drained didn't seem rusty per say, but real cloudy.
In other news, it, aswell as myself survived the trip to a show today
In other news, it, aswell as myself survived the trip to a show today
Gunfighter97
Member
So my rear axle is (off the top of my head) an RA 16, my truck had a powr lock d44 in back originally, and if I'm not mistaken it was a track lock that came in a d60 for an RA 17? So my question is, how does an original track lock compare to a similar and more modern unit, and also how would a set of manual lockers be for all around use? My goal is keeping with the original, bomb proof, till the bitter mud-up-to-the-axles end theme, while maintaining maximum versatility. If the track lock offers better on road performance in regards to doing truck things then I would prefer it over an open dif. If not then open dif on road and spool mode for off road is what I will go for. This is all speculation at this point, but I have a feeling a couple of these ideas will end up requiring a newer d60 wich is what I'm prospecting the parts required in terms of how many internal organs I need to sell to get there
