1964 Travelall and 1967 Travelette All Wheel Drive's

To the fiber jockey box liner. I've also seen them glued to the passenger a-pillar. Talk about a horrid location. No chance for moisture contamination there...oh no never.:out:
 
I tried to feel around the box but not able to get good access to the top. Would you expect the LST to be on the top? If so I'll see about looking.
 
Those are 2 very cool rigs! I have found the LST on the back of the glove box in all my d series trucks as well.
 
Thanks for the location ideas. Pretty much looked in all of the places mentioned here + a few others.. No dice. :icon_sad:

good so far on the t-ette.
Super clean interior
straight body
runs and drives remarkably well using the e-brake :crazy: only on the airport around the hanger.
Floors are rusty under the carpet but as far as I can see no holes.
All electrics seem to function.
Steering very tight.
No leaks what so ever.
Lifters very quiet.
Coolant still good and green.
Have camper jacks and am making mounts to attach to under edge of camper. ($500.00 set of 4 new).

Bad for the t-ette.
Camper.
Mild cowel rust through around the vent tubes under dash.
Small amount of drip rail rust.
Camper.
Has/had brake leak in front system.
Service bed.
No good pu bed available yet.
Did I mention camper................. :incazzato:
 
Mounted the jack adapters/mounts and we have lift off..

Didn't know that there were 4 bolts through the floor that held the camper in. :out:

sounds like 87kg is going to be in la verne to pick it up today about 1-2 pm.. Will be nice to have thetruck freed from the extra weight so I can get on with fixing the brake issue and what ever else May turn up.

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No camper any more. 87king came out from az and picked it up.
The t-ette looks way different in a good way.
 

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The camper made it home with me safe and smoothly, the trip went excellent and the camper did great all the way home. It didn't even move a inch lol thanks again buddy for everything and waiting for me running late as usaul:frown2: I am super excited to have it and start fixing up the little things in it. Its plenty big enough for me and my girlfriend:thumbsup: it would of been funny to video us standing around thinking uhhhh hows it going to fit on any thing lol but we got it:thumbsup:. Today after work cleaning begins:wink5:
 
I'm happy you wanted and were willing to come get it... Hope it is what you needed and can get it acceptably mounted on your IH.

When you are done with the camper jacks let me know and I'll give you the address to ship them back to..
Then will end up being a body off lift/rack for cars or trucks...
I snapped a photo as you pulled away.
 

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I tore in to t-ette's brakes, master cylinder was done and leaking so I got a kit and went about rebuilding it. A bit of pitting so I might need a new one if it still leaks.
Pulled the wheels and drums (impact tool to loosen the 3 retainer screws on the drums. The brake shoes and cylinders are great no leakages evident. Drums measure a bit under 12" so they are good...
I like the orange drums. The last owner liked to paint things bright colors.

The rears are a different story. :( some one ran them to the rivets and the grooves are ground super deep and I'll need to source drums. Think I found a possible limited source (Ismail brother) but he needs to remove a few and check condition. I think he'll come through. Wheel cylinders are toast too. Have all of the parts I need on the way so hope to make progress this weekend..

The clutch master is leaking too, need to disassemble to see if there are any pits in that bore. If so Jeff has a brand new replacement.

Pictures later got to go eat diner's ready!!
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If you need drum repair I can get it done for you, but shipping those suckers would be a bear! I hate finding neglect off service like that:sad: great picture by the way.:icon_cool:
 
Thanks for the offer king
I'm not sure I could trust a redo of the braking surface. I can see how one might go about replacing the missing metal but I don't se a commercially offered service to do it.. To me that means it is not super safe..

I think I have a source for used ones. Beyond that I also think I have a way to create new drums that will work.. Basically use a common and available drum and modify/finesse it to fit the IH application.. I'll see after I get my rig back on the road.

How's the camper doing?
 
Ohhh no I don't do them at napa or anything or nor could I lol but fleetpride heavy duty truck repair and parts do them down here. They do them for buses and older cars like ours and custom lol I don't know if that's really commercial or if there's one in cali to check out. The one I go through is a complete shop they own allot of shops that were in phoenix. Its quite the process. Almost like resleeving wheel cylinders and master cylinders which they do to lol
I know when they sleeve the drum they have to have the shoe to make the brake friction material thickness match the new dimension off the drum and inside diameter. Soo its like getting brand new brakes but with the drum work and relining off shoes its gets pricey quick! Still a used good drum is hard to beat any day and is the way to go!!

I am working super hard at the store resources in my free time to come up with parts to fit up available drums to our trucks and front disk brakes. Right now I am finding a kingpin size on a 1942 k6 for a guy to be reamed at fleetpride to accept Ford outer knuckles for disk brakes but my goal one day is to retain stock axles but find the parts that ll fit and cross reference until it works with minor tweaking to it. Thats my hope anyways and then give all that info to Jeff to help everyone out.

I am going to start a thread on it, termites killed the bottom so I have to redo that and the bed area first thing, il post pics on my thread off it:icon_rotate: finally got my apartment so iv been so busy I can hardly rest for a minute lol
 
overdrivesteve said:
hi,

here's a place that rebuilds both aluminum and cast iron brake drums, but have no idea how much they charge.

jg brake drum relining and refurbishing

Their web site implies they only do sports cars but I'm sure somewhere in one of the forums I read someone had their IH vehicle done by them.

Steve
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I called them and they feel reasonably certain they can sleeve these drums. The price is a bunch of green + shipping both directions.
I'm going to hold out and see what the used market comes up with.. I might end up going that route if nothing good pops up.
 
Holy cow your right:( from the time I got my truck 2 and half years ago till now, jason says he no longer can do it or send them out over at fleetpride:( I guess I should have done mine when it was available. That really dissapoints me allot. Sorry for the wrong statement everyone:(. Back to finding a new place to do it, il call those guys and see what my price through a company of American auto parts would be. I am bummed out now. I still have the sleeving compound for when I was going to give him mine to sleeve to which wasn't cheap dang.
 
Two weekends ago I r&r'd the clutch master and bled it. Yanked the other rear drum. Took measurements on the 3 flex brake hoses (ends and lengths). Found that the hard lines on the rear axle were toast.
Wiped off the rear axle tag..... Read 4.89 gears. Glad it's a od five speed. I'll be installing 285/75/16 tires on it, which should help along with 16x8 alloy wheels. Haven't decided what style wheel, but I'll pick one soon.

Last weekend I drove the Scout to g&j aircraft in ontario to have the lines made along with replacement hard lines for the rear. Got home and found the fuel pump on the Scout was blowing fuel out of the blow hole. :icon_xp: luckily I had a new diaphragm so 1 hour later the Scout was back on the road and I was back at the airport to work on the t-ette. Got the rear brake plumbing mounted and ready for brake assembly.

Tackling the front brake lines next weekend. Not looking forward to being a contortionist getting to the frame end of the hoses. Should be able to get the front brakes and wheel cylinders rebuilt and back together...
 
Finished the rear brake lines and got the backing plates and small parts cleaned up... Wheel cylinders mounted and plumbed.

Then I decides to look at the carburation again. It always seems lean on the pilot jets. So I replaced the booster hose and removed the pcv valve (rebuildable type) and cleaned it.. Reinstalled it along with new hose to the valley pan. It's better, way better. But.......
I believe all IH 304's with the 2 barrel 2300 Holley's used timed vacuum advance that plumbed off of the metering block and not the manifold vacuum direct.???

The truck came with a list # 2977 2300 installed with the advance plumbed to the vacuum tree. I have been through it already and it is sound. The timed port on 2977 is not threaded or open. I think this one had been monkeyed with

the truck came with another used carb list 1710-3. The 1710-3 has the timed port threaded and it also had a fitting in it.. I rebuilt it today along with a new 6.5 power valve. Before I install it I want to for sure know which vacuum the truck should have.

Fyi both the 2977 and 1710-3 are speced for the ihc 266 and 304.

Nice listing below of Holley list numbers and applications..

Holley master list of list numbers
 
Got the front flex brake lines in, removed and fully inspect the front brakes, painted the orange away (fade to black).
Had the rear drums turned to the max. Surprisingly they had .050" left to take them to the limit of 12.09. We went a tad further 12.10. They cleaned up ok with only the deep rivet grooves still visible.
Went to clean the rear bearings and found that they were toast. Ordered them... Not cheap
rebuilt the second ihc issued 2300 and installed it. Runs like it should now. Found the replacement bed 1968 fleet side bonus load 8 foot. Nice condition and white already too..

Oh yeah forgot that I also rebuilt the 1904 on my Scout. Alky gass killed the power valve and accelerator pump diaphragms. Started pissing fuel out of the ap vent hole. Installed a new main metering body too. All happy now.
 
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