Scout II Doesn't Always Start!

This is the new fixed set up. I started it and its running right now.
 

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Cool! Notice any difference? Started easier...the same...worse? Running better...the same...worse? Can you shut it off?
 
Started the same, running the same, and within my last post and right now, it shut right off without dying, its like I turned off the key, but I didnt. It just turns off. And now it wont start back up. When I crank it, acts like its about to start but then just stops. It catches and stops.
 
Okay. We're moving our focus to a new area. I have some questions for you. In your first post, you mentioned that you changed out all the spark plugs. Which brand did you use, what gap did you set them to, and did you do them one at a time? Could you please snap some pics of your carb minus the air filter canister from both sides?
 
I used champion spark plugs, I bought them pre set from like autozone, when they type in 79 International Scout II 345 5.6 spark plugs, the champions came up so I bought those. But the thing is that I am not getting spark from the coil.
Could this be a ignition switch problem, or maybe a distributor wire problem?
Ill get on those pictures of the carb right now.
 
I'm not ready to jump to the conclusion that the coil isn't making spark. This could be a problem with your choke function and/or fuel delivery. Champion spark plugs are total junk. They fuel foul extremely easily. Once upon a time they May have been alright, but that was decades ago. I highly recommend you switch to either ngk 3332 or autolite 85 with minimum gap of .035 max gap of .040 at your earliest convenience. Buy a feeler gauge too if you don't have one.
 
Pictures of the carb
 

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We've got some issues here, buddy. You're carb has a manual choke, but you don't have a choke cable connected and therefore you have no way of gradually opening the choke up as the engine begins to warm. That big brass butterfly plate over the carb opening is your choke plate. It needs to be closed up like it is now when the engine is cold started, and then gradually opened to full vertical within a few minutes of running. What's happening right now is that the plate is staying closed. The cold engine wants to be choked, but as it warms it wants more air. With the plate closed, the air fuel ratio is way too Rich, which a warming engine doesn't like. I bet it spews dark smoke from the tail pipes and stinks to high heaven of Rich fuel right before it coughs, sputters and dies. I also bet that if you pull the plugs, they will all be covered in black soot and are now even more worthless than they were when new. So, add a universal choke cable to your grocery list and head on back down to the parts store. No sense in trying to run the thing any longer until we make some more adjustments.
 
I know what your saying about the choke needing a manual choke, I know I need that, the problem with what your saying is, that is not the issue. My father is out there working the choke as im starting it. And once I get it running, it runs. We pulled a spark plug wire, and connected it to an extra spark plug, we got spark. We then hooked it back up, we started the engine, and then it died. We pulled the same spark plug wire, connected it to the same extra spark plug, and there was no spark. Therefore it is not a carb issue, it is a spark issue.
 
The other thing, is it does not spitter and sputter and die. It just cuts out. Its as if I were to turn the key to the off position. It just dies, it just loses spark.
 
Okay. Good to know. Since I'm not there with you to hear, see, smell, taste what is happening...all I can do is point out obvious issues I see in the pics. I'm totally dependent on the information you either do or do not provide.

So we do have an intermittent ignition issue. Here's what I want you to do. Disconnect the large wire that runs between the coil and the center of the distributor cap at the dizz cap end and position the brass contact roughly 3/8ths of an inch away from a metal surface. Have either yourself or your Dad watch it closely as the other one bumps the starter. If the coil is good, it will throw a spark strong enough to jump the air gap. Report back when you've done it.
 
Okay, we pulled it. It was sparking. We then plugged it back in, it started, then died, and we pulled it again. No spark....
 
Okay. Back to a question I asked you earlier and never got a reply...do you still have the old coil? If so, swap it on and see if that makes any difference.
 
Okay, changed the coil. It started the same, ran the same, and died the same. Now it wont start again. Pulled the wire that I did before (from the coil to dizz) no spark
 
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