Scout II Doesn't Always Start!

Okay. Next test. Rig a jumper wire directly from the battery + over to whichever coil + you want to have hooked up. This will bypass your ignition switch and will be similar to leaving the key switched on constantly, so only leave the wire hooked up while the engine is running, pull it after the engine dies or when you want to shut it off. Alligator clip ends are handy for this, but do the best you can with what you have. Report back.
 
You can remove the normal ig switch power feed wire if you want. If you do, be sure to insulate the loose terminal from metal contact as it is a live wire with the key on. Also keep in mind that the engine will not switch off with the key. It will either die same as before, or you will need to pull the jumper.
 
Okay, with the jumper, started the same, ran the same, died the same, wont start again. Pulled coil to dizz spark wire, no spark.
 
Alright. With that test, you've ruled out the ignition switch and associated wiring from the battery-to relay-to solenoid-to ignition switch-to coil as the culprit(s). You've tried two coils with the same result. It is possible, but unlikely that both coils are shot. More likely that they are both still good. That leaves the pickup module inside the distributor, which unfortunately is a spendy item to replace. There are a couple possibilities and the price varies greatly between them, so we need to make very positive id of the one you have. So go ahead and disco your battery, then remove the pickup module from the distributor. It will be the item that has the small gauge wires coming out of it. Take some good pics of it out of the dizz. Also see if you can find a part number on it and look for an IH part number on your dizz body. May be tough to see.
 
How do I remove the dizz pickup mod? Just pull on it? Never done it before.
From the beginning of this, my father and I have thought the pickup mod to be the problem. Thats what I feared because of the price of it. $$$
 
There should be some small set screws that hold it in place. Yep, hopefully the one you need is the cheaper of the two, but still not chump change. I'm sure you could find a presto module test procedure on the webs if you searched. It would probably make for another nice learning opportunity for you. I'm not going to attempt the search and walk you through it. Totally up to you if you want to pursue that step on your own. To my thinking, I'm fairly satisfied at this point after everything else you've tried, that a failed module is the primary reason why your engine dies and will only restart after a cool down period. Those are pretty telling symptoms, but I wanted you to perform some due dilligence before we rushed to that expensive conclusion. If you wanted to try exchanging your high dollar coil for a plain stock replacement as a last ditch, you could, but I don't think that would make any difference.
 
I don't think so. I've never messed with this particular model before, so you're just going to have to look things over and figure it out. My service manual does not cover this model either, but it shouldn't be that difficult to remove.
 
Okay, I guess ill just look into it. Ill let you know what I find out soon. By the way, coming from underneath my coil, there is a wire marked 'ay29' any idea?
 
29 is the coolant temp sensor wire. The temp sensor is threaded into the intake in the region of the thermostat housing, coil and distributor. Good luck and definitely keep us posted on your findings.
 
To the temp sensor, like I said. Its there right where I described. 95 corresponds to an exhaust sensor...some type of smog component which you May or May not have in place any more. I don't know any more about it than that.
 
Sorry forgot about the picture, here it is
 

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Yes I did, I just posted it. On the top portion, I the only thing I read is 13 then a space 2.. So 13 2 and 2 printed ''r.h'' s
 
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