Scout II Doesn't Always Start!

Okay, that is a fully charged battery. You have a voltage drop occurring somewhere within in your ignition/starter circuitry. This is a real problem for the presto distributor as it needs full power in order to create a spark strong enough to ignite the air/fuel mixture. This is why you are experiencing inconsistent start ups and seem not have spark at times. Not enough current is reaching the coil. Hold tight. I'm working on another post for you that includes a diagram for correctly incorporating the Ford remote relay.
 
Below is a very simple and crude diagram depicting the proper circuit relationship between the battery, the Ford relay, and the delco starter. You have most of the components necessary, but you will need some new battery cables, or at least need to cut and crimp new ring terminals onto your current cable to plumb things correctly. New battery cable chunks would be your best bet.
There are several benefits to this modification:
1. All small gauge wires are relocated from the solenoid location away from damaging exhaust manifold heat exposure.
2. The terminals for starter actuation are more conveniently located for jump starting with a screwdriver in the event of an ig switch failure or for adding an auxiliary push button starter switch.
3. Full battery voltage is now conducted directly to the starter solenoid via a large gauge battery cable instead of a smaller gauge wire that is more susceptible to heat damage and increased resistance.

I know you are young and just want to get this thing fired up right away, but my advice to you is to simmer down and take the time to work through these steps the right way the first time. Have you ever noticed how we never seem to have the time to do a job right the first time, but we somehow miraculously have time to monkey-screw with bubble gum and bailing wire cobble-jobs over and over again? Its true. You want to avoid going down that road, even if it means more upfront delay and hassle. Pay a little now or a whole lot later on. Your call.
 

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Exactly. The way its hooked up now completely defeats the purpose of having it in place. Just compare the diagram I posted to the pic you took. The battery + cable is till running directly down to your stater solenoid and you still have several small gauge wires running down there, which should be relocated to the remote relay as per the diagram. Be sure to disconnect your battery cable before performing any of this work.
 
Okay, ill try to fix that then. But just for more information. I tried to start it. It did start but ran like crap. Had a hard time keeping it running so I was constantly giving it gas and it was probably around 2000 rpm and then it just suddenly cut out and shut off. Now it is receiving no spark at all and the coil is getting 12.5 volts to the negative and positive. It started and shut off due to carb problems. And I checked voltage to coil. 12.5 and then I ran it again and then it shut off as previously stated, and is still receiving 12.5 volts.
 
Just after I posted that last post. I tried it again. It started, and the exact same thing happened. Except now instead of getting zero spark, it tries to start, for about 1 second, then goes back to just turning over
 
I really think you should stop trying to run it until you've corrected the funky wiring. I know it sorta kinda works sometimes, but that obviously isn't good enough. You May be playing with fire here, quite literally. Whoever installed that remote relay should have consulted for wiring advice. Your net is open too wide right now. You undoubtedly have a number of contributing issues to correct. The key to successful automotive diagnosis and repair is to keep your focus narrow and deal with one system or micro-system at a time until you are certain everything is as it should be. Then you can move on to the next weak link in the chain. The shotgun approach wastes time and money. So, focus on the battery to relay to starter circuitry first and forget about the carb for now.
 
Okay if you look at the picture of my relay, do you have any idea what that black wire is coming from the 'I' terminal.
 
scoutii22 said:
okay, so after I re-wire the relay. Whats next?
Click to expand...

We'll get there. Patience grasshoppa. One thing at a time.

scoutii22 said:
okay if you look at the picture of my relay, do you have any idea what that black wire is coming from the 'I' terminal.
Click to expand...

It has a factory ring terminal on it. I have an idea, but I hate to guess and be wrong. Every stock wire in your Scout had a circuit id number printed onto it at both ends. Usually those numbers are worn off or illegible by now, but you might get lucky. If you see a number on it and can read it clearly, post it, and I can id it for you. Usually there are no shortcuts for tracing and labeling the wires yourself as you go. Its painstaking work, but guessing doesn't get the job done.
 
The wire reads "cz17" and on the relay, does it matter which side the battery goes into and comes out of? Like does the battery have to go into the left side and come out the right?
 
The wire says "cz17" on it in white. I re wired everything to the way you told me. Whats next? Try and start it? Im not sure if this messsage already got posted, it says it didnt, so im gonna re do it.
 
Okay, circuit 17 is the wire from your ignition switch that formerly ran down to the 's' terminal down on your starter solenoid. It should now be attached to the 's' or 'I' terminal of the Ford piece depending on how it is labeled. Could I see some pics of the work you've done? Think of me as your supervisor or inspector. I need to confirm some things with you and then sign off on what you've done before you can hit the key again.
 
The cz17 wire, never ran down to the s terminal on the starter. The only wire that ran to the s terminal on the starter is the yellow wire I mentioned earlier, which is now running to the s terminal on the relay, from the s terminal on the starter. I'm going to take pictures right now and I will post them.
 
Here you go.
 

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Okay, you're getting there, but I do want you to make a couple adjustments. First, that 17 wire did originally go down to the starter solenoid like I said, before the Ford relay was installed. Someone re-routed it and added those yellow wires thinking they had hooked up the remote relay correctly...epic fail. Anyway, are either of the small terminals on that relay labeled as 's'? That is the post where wire 17 needs to be connected now. If that's where you have it, great.
Next, that yellow wire running from the solenoid 's' terminal up to the right hand small terminal on the relay can be removed. I see that you made a jumper wire as per the diagram, but it is kinda small gauge. That's my bad, as I did not specify to use a 10 gauge chunk for that. What you have will work for now, but just keep it in mind if/when you get bored to make up a new jumper with thicker gauge wire.
Now I want to focus on those two wires as seen in your third pic that you moved from the solenoid up to the relay. It looks like at least one of them May have been heat damaged and wrapped in a black tape bandaid. It probably wouldn't hurt to snip off a few inches on both if there is enough slack and start over. Also, the one wire at least appears to still have some markings on it. If you can pull numbers from either or both before you snip, please do.
That should take care of it. Be careful when you re-connect your battery. Unhook it quickly if you notice any sparks or see/smell smoke. Don't leave it hooked up unattended for the time being. Just wedge the clamp on the battery post snugly by hand, but not so tight that you can't twist it off quickly by hand. Who knows what other po electrical gems could be lying in wait. If things tolerate being hooked up without making sparks and smoke, go ahead and try starting it. Don't get too upset if it still runs like garbage. Remember, we've fixed an issue. That doesn't mean we've fixed every issue. Be prepared to deal with others in a similar, methodical fashion.
 
Okay, fixing all that right now, the 17 wire was already connected to the s on the relay, so I'm good there. The black wire with the tape around it is a '7' wire. And the other black one next to it just says 'fuseable link'
 
Circuit 7 is the wire that runs up to the #2 terminal of your alternator. The other wire would be circuit 14 which is the main power feed that travels through the bulkhead for distribution into the cab.
 
Yes. You May need to flip flop your battery cables at the the relay. I'm not sure if that order makes a difference or not. Try it the way you have it first and if it does something crazy like engage the starter immediately or you can't get the starter to engage, disco the battery, do the flip flop and try it again.
 
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