R-100 4X4

A bit of work is involved with doing oversize valves ...

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The owner is into the shiny stuff ..

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Just might look as good as it will run ...

Ran up on a problem ...

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Installing the new balancer didn't go very well ..
Needed to have it on the crank in order to do the balance job ..

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Since the press fit was out in left field, needed to find out why ??

Compared the measurements' to GM stock parts and found the balancer's hole .0023" smaller ..
Had to order a ball hone to open up the hole ...

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Could had sent it back, but didn't want to deal with the red-tape and waiting on the shipping ..

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Is that etched or tape?
 
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That's one .... One to go ..

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Those are the PP heads ...
Using 2.19" intake & 1.88" exhaust oversize valves ...

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The two above photos is a set of heads I'm building for my truck .. (54 R-100)
They are the large oval port 781 casting heads ..
Doing 2.25" intakes and 1.88" exhaust with having 11/32" stems ..

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Also a stroker with a bit larger bore (4.330") than the PP head stroker motor ... Cubes will be a little over 500 inches ..
 
Started on the second PP head ...

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Bunch of meat was removed from the exhaust bowl and a bit from the chamber wall ..
The O.S. valve should breathe really good ...
 
Been in the mode of attaining the parts to add-on a motor oil cooler ...
Since the motor is on it's way to being a Hoss, anything that will help keep it running cool is a plus ..

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A while back nailed down the used GM oil cooler adapter and a few feet of AN-8 hose & fittings ...
Was on the hunt for a used cooler that would fit a spot I got picked out, not wanting to add heat to the radiator cause I got a feeling it will have it's hands full keeping the motor running cool ..

Did run up on a few used coolers with -8 hose fitting that I could have used, tried to nail one down by paying with using PayPal .. That didn't work out very well so I gave up on finding used ..

Bought one off of eBay that would fit between the frame rails .. Perfect for the intended spot I had in mind, but it had AN-10 fitting welded on ... Did a little backing up on the parts ...

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Do think everything needed was in hand to mount the cooler ...
Not knowing what I was going to run into plumbing wise ordered enough fittings to make it happen ...

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The -10 hose size was the ticket, any bigger wouldn't have worked out well ..

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Fabricated some mounts to weld on .. Not liking the hose fittings I got, they don't allow for much room .. Got some different ones coming ...

Do think my choice for the cooler was the right one ... Certainly is big enough, shouldn't have a problem getting rid of heat ....

To keep a eye on the oil temp I installed a gauge ...

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Hope the fittings comes in today ..
Still have the welding to do and to fab the lower mount ...
 
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Looks good, but I have mixed feelings about external oil coolers. Had a line blow on a motorcycle and it blew the engine. Your truck has a pressure gage so you should have some warning before that happens.
 
I hear ya .. I'm using Evil Energy PTFE hose which supposed to be made heavy freaken duty ..
Do have the factory IH gauges on line ...

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The oil pressure sending unit is Oem for the og Silver Diamond IH 220 cid 6 cylinder ..

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For 70+ year old stuff they still work like day one ... Being the gauges was made for 6 volts had to get a voltage reducer ...

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It's the fin gizmo on the right in the photo ..
On the left is the cruise controller. shift LED indicator controller and the programmable key buzzer module ..

Being the oil cooler is mounted behind the bummer, it's well shielded from harm ..
Old truck won't be a rock crawler, by far, but will see some light off-road usage ..
 
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496" stroker motor is going together slowly ...

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Oil scraper going to take awhile to be fitted ...

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One more oil control item that's on order and the oil pan can be locked down for the long ride ..

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Designed to stop oil from climbing up the back of the oil pan under hard acceleration, and foaming due to contact with the rotating assembly,
 
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A lifter valley pan is a metal shield that sits between the engine block and the intake manifold to keep oil from splashing onto the bottom of the manifold.

This helps to prevent oil from coking and burning, which can create sludge that falls back into the engine.
It also keeps the intake manifold cooler by blocking the heat from the hot oil, which can slightly improve performance by reducing intake charge temperature.
We was thinking of running a air gap intake, but found a intake that's more suited for the PP heads ..
Since it doesn't have the means to keep hot oil off the intake, the valley pan will act somewhat like a air gap ..
Core functions of the lifter valley pan
  • Keeps the intake charge cooler: The pan acts as a thermal barrier, preventing hot oil splashing up from the lifter valley from heating the intake manifold. Cooler intake air is denser, leading to a more powerful air-fuel mixture.
  • Reduces oil coking: Many older big-block Chevy engines feature an exhaust gas crossover in the intake manifold, which can reach temperatures of 400-450°F. Oil splashing onto this hot surface will burn, creating hardened deposits (coke) that can break off and enter the oil system. The pan prevents this contamination.
  • Seals the lifter valley: The pan, typically a steel stamping, also acts as an intake gasket for the lifter valley, ensuring a proper seal. This prevents oil from coming up and leaking from the intake manifold.
  • Directs oil flow: In some gasket designs, the pan also helps to maximize lubrication by directing oil splash back down onto the camshaft and lifters.
  • Minimizes oil aeration: By blocking oil from splashing violently onto the rotating assembly, such as the crankshaft, the pan can help reduce oil aeration (the mixing of air with oil), which protects engine components.

Modern vs. classic applications
  • With exhaust crossover: If your big block uses a stock cast-iron intake manifold with a functional exhaust gas crossover, the valley pan is essential to prevent oil from coking and contaminating the engine.
  • With aftermarket intakes: If you install an aftermarket aluminum intake manifold that does not have a heat crossover, some builders will omit the pan. While the risk of oil coking is eliminated, using a pan or baffle can still provide the benefits of a cooler intake charge and reduced oil aeration.
 
Not so much just a BBC thingy, lots of car manufacturers used it on their bone stock motors ...

Pontiac comes to mind .. (350, 389, 400, 455, etc.)
On LS V8 engines, a lifter valley cover, or pan, is a standard component.

Also Mopar; like the 383 and 440, used a metal valley pan that also served as the intake manifold gasket. This design kept the intake manifold "dry" by isolating it from the hot oil below, allowing for a cooler air charge.

AMC V8s: These engines also featured a valley pan design. It is installed before the intake manifold and functions as the gasket to seal the lifter valley.
 
Back to my R-100

Got a few items in mind to do ...
First is to install a aux transmission cooler ..

The aftermarket aluminum radiator has a cooler built in ..

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It will be working hand in hand (Piggybacked) with a remote two electric fans aux cooler that's going to be mounted above the transfer case ..

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Lots of room in that area, since the cooler has ele. fans, no need to mount it in the air flow ..

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Making a mount to span the frame rails is underway ..
Could mount it to the bottom of the cab's floor pan, we'll see how it'll go soon ..

The other item is still in the think tank..
Some bodywork will be needed to do this mod ...

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Side marker lights Frenched in from a 48 Buick Super might be a wild look ..

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Not all that sure that I want to cut holes in the fenders .. !
80 year old Buick parts are hard to come by, but did managed to find a set ..
Once they're in my greasy hands I'll do a mockup and make the call to use em or not .. ??
 
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Fabricating the mount is going well ..
Got it my head on what to do ..

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Going to make the horn mount too, since I'm in the mood ..

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Work continues on the trans cooler ...

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Mounted it down really secure ... Plumbing it is going well ..

Wired it up, dang thing kicks 630 CFMs and is a bit loud ..

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Might need a bigger stereo amp ??

Think I'll try mounting it on rubber ..

Done with the lines, only one more item is needed to complete the install ...

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Found some interesting history on the 'Dagmar' bumpers ...


I had the idea to find a bumper that had them on it for my truck ..
The hunt turned up some that would've looked real hokey on it ..

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Above bumper came off a 51 Caddy ... Wasn't the look I was after ....

I installed a 57 Chevy pickup bumper years back, did find a set of original guards for it ..

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The GMC pickups of the same era used the same bumper, but had Dagmar's for the guards ...
Nailed down a set of those critters off of a 58 ..
The wide body mod that I did required for adding bout 6 more inches to the stock bumper ..

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Pasties are from a 57 Bel-Air ..

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Well, still looks a bit hokey ..

Paint helped the cause ..

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