Rob Gojkovich
Member
Robert, I have tail light buckets and a towing bumper if your interested.
1964 Travelall and 1967 Travelette All Wheel Drive's
- Thread starter Robert Kenney
- Start date
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Hi rob,
interested in both, the tail light pigtail that attached to the back of the bulb location is important.
I would like to see a couple of photos of the bumper. Is it a factory bumper?
interested in both, the tail light pigtail that attached to the back of the bulb location is important.
I would like to see a couple of photos of the bumper. Is it a factory bumper?
Rob Gojkovich
Member
Robert, I can't seem to up load any pictures. If you email me at rob@tacticalsportdefense.com I can send you some pictures of the bumper. It's diamond plate.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Ran new wiring from the oem harness to and across the rear of the for for the lights. I aquired a pair of nos backup lights ( also 1958 buick), nos grote 420 tail light lenses (with the IH cast into them). The backup lights are the earlier version but I like them. I have begun to buy the parts for the later 68 bu lights.
Painted the inside on the tail light buckets white for more reflected light.
I also have
mounted the plate and began to install the 7 pin trailer connector. I will install a brake controler for the electric brakes.
Took her for a long highway drive and again I'm impressed by how good it's road manners are..
Painted the inside on the tail light buckets white for more reflected light.
I also have
mounted the plate and began to install the 7 pin trailer connector. I will install a brake controler for the electric brakes.
Took her for a long highway drive and again I'm impressed by how good it's road manners are..
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Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Finally for the front window back in. I had the right and left front drip rail, and the right side windshield opening brow rust fixed. Not easy but it came out nice. Takes a talented metal guy.
Installed a new old stock Robert shaw thermostat and replaced the coolant. It had trouble maintaining thermostat operating temperatures and did have the wrong stat in it but turns out that the radiator is fouled with deposits but still solid. It doesn't over heat but struggles none the less. After using the truck to move my stuff in to the garage from the hanger I'll pull it and descale it..
Installed a new old stock Robert shaw thermostat and replaced the coolant. It had trouble maintaining thermostat operating temperatures and did have the wrong stat in it but turns out that the radiator is fouled with deposits but still solid. It doesn't over heat but struggles none the less. After using the truck to move my stuff in to the garage from the hanger I'll pull it and descale it..
Rob Gojkovich
Member
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Thank you.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Interesting that after installing the new correct t-stat and putting 150+ miles on the truck it is running perfectly cool. Staying right on the stat temp with-in a needle width or two depending on outside temperatures.
I think I have made 6-7 trips to the hanger and back to my house now and another couple road trips, she is still running great and has not used a drop of oil. Also not dripping anything.
My last trip was to pickup my 67 suzuki, stopped to grab lunch and had to take a picture...
I think I have made 6-7 trips to the hanger and back to my house now and another couple road trips, she is still running great and has not used a drop of oil. Also not dripping anything.
My last trip was to pickup my 67 suzuki, stopped to grab lunch and had to take a picture...
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Got stuck driving home from a bbq last night and my wiper motor was frozen. I knew this was bad already but how friggen often does it rain in the summer???? Well it did and hard. Actually raining cats and dogs now.
Thought I'd do some fixin today.
The motor was not going to go easily so I pulled the armature and stator out. What a rusted up mess. Had to unsolder the power fires from the gear box and totally disassemble it. Got it all de-rusted it the best I could and verified the windings were ok. There is still enough oxide on the stator windings that it would probably leak to ground if it were high voltage but at 12 volts it is ok for now. Back together working now and ready for some rain.
I also had a cracked and leaking right side fuel filler hose. Pulled that apart and replaced the upper flanged rubber hose along with a new filter and fuel line. Now I have 30 gallons onboard and all is good.
Thought I'd do some fixin today.
The motor was not going to go easily so I pulled the armature and stator out. What a rusted up mess. Had to unsolder the power fires from the gear box and totally disassemble it. Got it all de-rusted it the best I could and verified the windings were ok. There is still enough oxide on the stator windings that it would probably leak to ground if it were high voltage but at 12 volts it is ok for now. Back together working now and ready for some rain.
I also had a cracked and leaking right side fuel filler hose. Pulled that apart and replaced the upper flanged rubber hose along with a new filter and fuel line. Now I have 30 gallons onboard and all is good.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
So I had some time today waiting for the city inspector on the garage so I spent some quality time on the t-ette.
I have about 1600 lb. Of granite counter tops that my sister bought and had delivered to my house. The problem is that it is still here 6 months later. So I offered to haul it to mammoth lakes CA in my travelette. I now have a few things to do before the trip.
To catch up on the last few week ends.
1) removed radiator, to accomplish a good descaling. It was pretty ugly in side.
Descaling involves hooking a circulation pump to the radiator so an acid/water mix could be pumped through it until it is clear. This mix is 1 gallon of pool muriatic acid 17.5% (dilute hydrogen chloride) hydrochloric acid and 3-1/2 to 4 gallons of tap water. Photo of the rig is included. I don't recommend this process to anyone unless they understand the risks 1000%. Acid is very dangerous and can injure or harm the persons involved. Safer to take it to a radiator shop and have them rod it out or whatever they do. I am doing this myself.
Some before and after photos that my phone could see. I used a see snake to view the tubes not visible through the openings and saw them consistently blocked some % like the photos and worse.
2) adjust the brakes. Done!
3) change the differential oil (tomorrow)
4) straighten and replace the front bumper. 1/2 done today. Straightening setup photo included. Pie cut the outer skin and welded it up after the desired couture was reached.
5) vacuum the air conditioner system and recharge with r**. Done! Works like a champ sniff test found no leaks. Well not yet.
6) replace the upper speedometer cable. Done!
7) pack up spare parts and tools for the trip.
8) make tailgate support chains. Tie downs scared me. Done! There should be a set coming. From what I've been told.
I have about 1600 lb. Of granite counter tops that my sister bought and had delivered to my house. The problem is that it is still here 6 months later. So I offered to haul it to mammoth lakes CA in my travelette. I now have a few things to do before the trip.
To catch up on the last few week ends.
1) removed radiator, to accomplish a good descaling. It was pretty ugly in side.
Descaling involves hooking a circulation pump to the radiator so an acid/water mix could be pumped through it until it is clear. This mix is 1 gallon of pool muriatic acid 17.5% (dilute hydrogen chloride) hydrochloric acid and 3-1/2 to 4 gallons of tap water. Photo of the rig is included. I don't recommend this process to anyone unless they understand the risks 1000%. Acid is very dangerous and can injure or harm the persons involved. Safer to take it to a radiator shop and have them rod it out or whatever they do. I am doing this myself.
Some before and after photos that my phone could see. I used a see snake to view the tubes not visible through the openings and saw them consistently blocked some % like the photos and worse.
2) adjust the brakes. Done!
3) change the differential oil (tomorrow)
4) straighten and replace the front bumper. 1/2 done today. Straightening setup photo included. Pie cut the outer skin and welded it up after the desired couture was reached.
5) vacuum the air conditioner system and recharge with r**. Done! Works like a champ sniff test found no leaks. Well not yet.
6) replace the upper speedometer cable. Done!
7) pack up spare parts and tools for the trip.
8) make tailgate support chains. Tie downs scared me. Done! There should be a set coming. From what I've been told.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Finally got the bumper straight, primed and color sanded twice and, painted. I like the silver better than a white or black. Fits nice. Had to pie cut the top flange on both sides including the po added braces on the back side. Welded them locked straight and ground them flat. Cain't even tell now..
With a big help from a friend I got the payload loaded and secured. Guessing 1500 pounds.
Got all or the emergency rations (tools and supply's) loaded for the trip to mammoth.
Re drilled and mounted the passenger side sun visor that was removed when the drip rail repairs were done.
Actually washed the dirt off with soap and water and, a large green scotch brite pad. Looks better.
While trying to figure out fuel capacity the sales literature says the aux tank is 14 gallons and the 19 gallon tank that is the standard single tank is swapped out for a 15 gallon tank... This was listed on the LST as having the aux tank along with the selector valve and gauge switch which it does..
Upon looking at the tanks I could see that the right side tank is significantly deeper than the left.. So I measured them to come up with close volume. The right and left were the same except for the depth. Right= 7d-13w-50l 4550 in3/231=19 gallons, the left is 5d-13w-50l 3250 in3 = 14 gallons
my measurements and calculations took some liberties for rounded corners and shape intrusions in to the volume of each tank.. I feel they are accurate.
Seems like the original standard tank was left in from the factory or put back in some time in it's history. So happy to say I have 34 gallons on board.. Based on 8 miles/gallon I can go 232 miles with 2 gallons left in each tank. I'm hopping for 10.
tomorrow, all that's left to do is suck out and replace the diff. Oil.
It is a bit dark. Probably quite old. Will have to wait till the trip to test this old IH out.
With a big help from a friend I got the payload loaded and secured. Guessing 1500 pounds.
Got all or the emergency rations (tools and supply's) loaded for the trip to mammoth.
Re drilled and mounted the passenger side sun visor that was removed when the drip rail repairs were done.
Actually washed the dirt off with soap and water and, a large green scotch brite pad. Looks better.
While trying to figure out fuel capacity the sales literature says the aux tank is 14 gallons and the 19 gallon tank that is the standard single tank is swapped out for a 15 gallon tank... This was listed on the LST as having the aux tank along with the selector valve and gauge switch which it does..
Upon looking at the tanks I could see that the right side tank is significantly deeper than the left.. So I measured them to come up with close volume. The right and left were the same except for the depth. Right= 7d-13w-50l 4550 in3/231=19 gallons, the left is 5d-13w-50l 3250 in3 = 14 gallons
my measurements and calculations took some liberties for rounded corners and shape intrusions in to the volume of each tank.. I feel they are accurate.
Seems like the original standard tank was left in from the factory or put back in some time in it's history. So happy to say I have 34 gallons on board.. Based on 8 miles/gallon I can go 232 miles with 2 gallons left in each tank. I'm hopping for 10.
tomorrow, all that's left to do is suck out and replace the diff. Oil.
It is a bit dark. Probably quite old. Will have to wait till the trip to test this old IH out.
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Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
The trip to mammoth went great, no issues what so ever. Averaged 12 mpg up and 13 round trip. Didn't use any oil that I could see on the stick.
The photo of the dash was about 1/2 the way up the sherwin grade after having to shift out of 4th to 3rd. Big gap between those two gears. I was wot in 4th for the entire 1/2 of the grade holding 50-55 then the grade increases just enough to knock the 304 out of it's sweet spot.
I ended up at 3500 rpm doing 35 mph as you can see at about 1/3 throttle. The temp a tad above mid way was ok. Never went above that in fact started dropping after being in 3rd for a while to below 1/2.
I think the old goat has proven her self..
The photo of the dash was about 1/2 the way up the sherwin grade after having to shift out of 4th to 3rd. Big gap between those two gears. I was wot in 4th for the entire 1/2 of the grade holding 50-55 then the grade increases just enough to knock the 304 out of it's sweet spot.
I ended up at 3500 rpm doing 35 mph as you can see at about 1/3 throttle. The temp a tad above mid way was ok. Never went above that in fact started dropping after being in 3rd for a while to below 1/2.
I think the old goat has proven her self..
PacificEd
Member
Robert,
where did you get the parts to mount the bed? Mainly the springs. I just acquired a short bed for my project and it needs all new hardware to mount it up. Mine is a 1973 so some of it May be different. I know they use the springs like yours has though.
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Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
They are called "die springs". Any commercial supplier will sell them. Mcmaster carr is where I got them. The rubber also came from them. Mcmaster.com
here is the spring, http://www.mcmaster.com/#9595k11/=wyrvhn
here is the spring, http://www.mcmaster.com/#9595k11/=wyrvhn
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Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
1968 Travelette All Wheel Drive
Still making head way...
I used the old utility bed bumper. Sectioned 5 1/2 inches from each side chamfered the heavy c channel edges 1/8" then tig welded it back together. Great penetration at 150 amps.
Photos before during and after below.
Working on a tubeless wheel to replace the splits. I bought 2 old ones off of feebay and removed the center of one. Sent the center to stockton and had them make a 16x8 and 4-1/2" back space (which is the same as oem splits) assembly. They had two options on the wheel shell one called large id where it id was 14-1/4 and a small id where the id was 13-1/2. The large id works best and the center was machined to fit and welded in place. Photo below. The center had some dings in it so it's going to be the spare tire wheel.
The tread width on my tires 255/85/16 is 8" so it should be perfect
not to bad, a bit over $200 to my door including shipping and I removed the center. Workman ship was just ok.
I have just located another wheel shop very near my home that I will visit soon. Very knowledgeable family run shop that also makes springs.
I will save $35 wheel including all of the shipping and having to remove the center myself. It's not fun.
Still making head way...
I used the old utility bed bumper. Sectioned 5 1/2 inches from each side chamfered the heavy c channel edges 1/8" then tig welded it back together. Great penetration at 150 amps.
Photos before during and after below.
Working on a tubeless wheel to replace the splits. I bought 2 old ones off of feebay and removed the center of one. Sent the center to stockton and had them make a 16x8 and 4-1/2" back space (which is the same as oem splits) assembly. They had two options on the wheel shell one called large id where it id was 14-1/4 and a small id where the id was 13-1/2. The large id works best and the center was machined to fit and welded in place. Photo below. The center had some dings in it so it's going to be the spare tire wheel.
The tread width on my tires 255/85/16 is 8" so it should be perfect
not to bad, a bit over $200 to my door including shipping and I removed the center. Workman ship was just ok.
I have just located another wheel shop very near my home that I will visit soon. Very knowledgeable family run shop that also makes springs.
I will save $35 wheel including all of the shipping and having to remove the center myself. It's not fun.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Bought one more of the same tire and had it mounted on the new wheel. So far I think it was a good choice. Keep the original truck parts, hubcap and look of stock but allow easy repair and a broader choice of tires.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Finished up the receiver hitch mounting. Made drawings of the attach plates and had a friend cut them on his water jet. 3/8 hot roll steel. Turned out very nice. I think I need to have one of those in my shop...
the receiver hitch unit was a curt off the shelf. The main tube assembly is 33" wide flange to flange. Almost perfect as the frame is 34" wide .
Got all 4 wheels broken down and the tires removed. Now to find time to get them to the wheel shop. Stuck the one wheel I had done on the front to get a feel for how it looks. What do you think?
Today is 100% work work for me and my break is over.
the receiver hitch unit was a curt off the shelf. The main tube assembly is 33" wide flange to flange. Almost perfect as the frame is 34" wide .
Got all 4 wheels broken down and the tires removed. Now to find time to get them to the wheel shop. Stuck the one wheel I had done on the front to get a feel for how it looks. What do you think?
Today is 100% work work for me and my break is over.
ChicoComanche
Member
Hi Robert,
I have a 1964 t'all c1200 4wd with a 65 4wd t'all and 66
2wd t'all coming soon. The 2wd has rear barn doors. Give me a ring if you want to talk about them. I will probably part 1 or 2 of them out but the bodies on all of them are in great shape as is the glass etc. Will be hard to figure out which to keep! The IH fleet is getting too big.
Dan (chico)
530-520-3535
I have a 1964 t'all c1200 4wd with a 65 4wd t'all and 66
2wd t'all coming soon. The 2wd has rear barn doors. Give me a ring if you want to talk about them. I will probably part 1 or 2 of them out but the bodies on all of them are in great shape as is the glass etc. Will be hard to figure out which to keep! The IH fleet is getting too big.
Dan (chico)
530-520-3535
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Wheels arrived yesterday fresh from the wheel smith. Painted then yesterday evening. Mount and balance tires Saturday. Then install on truck. Hope it still drives as nice as before. Only a small (1-1/4") shift in tire centerline so I don't expect much change.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Got the tires mounted this weekend and put back on the travelette.
So original wheels were 16 x 5.5 with 4.5" back spacing.
New wheels with oem centers are 16 x 8 with a 4.5" back spacing.
The increase in width of 2-1/2 inches only moved the tire center 1-1/4 inches. Before the wheel change the brakes were smooth at highway speeds with only a small sense that the drums were not 100% round. Now? Holy moly, shaky in an under statement but only at speed. Once below 45-50 it is ok
other than needing to do the front brakes now the truck drives and feels fine. No shaking at 70.
Thanks Jeff for finding me doner wheels.
So original wheels were 16 x 5.5 with 4.5" back spacing.
New wheels with oem centers are 16 x 8 with a 4.5" back spacing.
The increase in width of 2-1/2 inches only moved the tire center 1-1/4 inches. Before the wheel change the brakes were smooth at highway speeds with only a small sense that the drums were not 100% round. Now? Holy moly, shaky in an under statement but only at speed. Once below 45-50 it is ok
other than needing to do the front brakes now the truck drives and feels fine. No shaking at 70.
Thanks Jeff for finding me doner wheels.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Now you see them
Now you don't
Stay tuned.
Now you don't
Stay tuned.
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