1964 Travelall and 1967 Travelette All Wheel Drive's
- Thread starter Robert Kenney
- Start date
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
They are called "die springs". Any commercial supplier will sell them. Mcmaster carr is where I got them. The rubber also came from them. Mcmaster.com
here is the spring, http://www.mcmaster.com/#9595k11/=wyrvhn
here is the spring, http://www.mcmaster.com/#9595k11/=wyrvhn
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Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
1968 Travelette All Wheel Drive
Still making head way...
I used the old utility bed bumper. Sectioned 5 1/2 inches from each side chamfered the heavy c channel edges 1/8" then tig welded it back together. Great penetration at 150 amps.
Photos before during and after below.
Working on a tubeless wheel to replace the splits. I bought 2 old ones off of feebay and removed the center of one. Sent the center to stockton and had them make a 16x8 and 4-1/2" back space (which is the same as oem splits) assembly. They had two options on the wheel shell one called large id where it id was 14-1/4 and a small id where the id was 13-1/2. The large id works best and the center was machined to fit and welded in place. Photo below. The center had some dings in it so it's going to be the spare tire wheel.
The tread width on my tires 255/85/16 is 8" so it should be perfect
not to bad, a bit over $200 to my door including shipping and I removed the center. Workman ship was just ok.
I have just located another wheel shop very near my home that I will visit soon. Very knowledgeable family run shop that also makes springs.
I will save $35 wheel including all of the shipping and having to remove the center myself. It's not fun.
Still making head way...
I used the old utility bed bumper. Sectioned 5 1/2 inches from each side chamfered the heavy c channel edges 1/8" then tig welded it back together. Great penetration at 150 amps.
Photos before during and after below.
Working on a tubeless wheel to replace the splits. I bought 2 old ones off of feebay and removed the center of one. Sent the center to stockton and had them make a 16x8 and 4-1/2" back space (which is the same as oem splits) assembly. They had two options on the wheel shell one called large id where it id was 14-1/4 and a small id where the id was 13-1/2. The large id works best and the center was machined to fit and welded in place. Photo below. The center had some dings in it so it's going to be the spare tire wheel.
The tread width on my tires 255/85/16 is 8" so it should be perfect
not to bad, a bit over $200 to my door including shipping and I removed the center. Workman ship was just ok.
I have just located another wheel shop very near my home that I will visit soon. Very knowledgeable family run shop that also makes springs.
I will save $35 wheel including all of the shipping and having to remove the center myself. It's not fun.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Bought one more of the same tire and had it mounted on the new wheel. So far I think it was a good choice. Keep the original truck parts, hubcap and look of stock but allow easy repair and a broader choice of tires.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Finished up the receiver hitch mounting. Made drawings of the attach plates and had a friend cut them on his water jet. 3/8 hot roll steel. Turned out very nice. I think I need to have one of those in my shop...
the receiver hitch unit was a curt off the shelf. The main tube assembly is 33" wide flange to flange. Almost perfect as the frame is 34" wide .
Got all 4 wheels broken down and the tires removed. Now to find time to get them to the wheel shop. Stuck the one wheel I had done on the front to get a feel for how it looks. What do you think?
Today is 100% work work for me and my break is over.
the receiver hitch unit was a curt off the shelf. The main tube assembly is 33" wide flange to flange. Almost perfect as the frame is 34" wide .
Got all 4 wheels broken down and the tires removed. Now to find time to get them to the wheel shop. Stuck the one wheel I had done on the front to get a feel for how it looks. What do you think?
Today is 100% work work for me and my break is over.
ChicoComanche
Member
Hi Robert,
I have a 1964 t'all c1200 4wd with a 65 4wd t'all and 66
2wd t'all coming soon. The 2wd has rear barn doors. Give me a ring if you want to talk about them. I will probably part 1 or 2 of them out but the bodies on all of them are in great shape as is the glass etc. Will be hard to figure out which to keep! The IH fleet is getting too big.
Dan (chico)
530-520-3535
I have a 1964 t'all c1200 4wd with a 65 4wd t'all and 66
2wd t'all coming soon. The 2wd has rear barn doors. Give me a ring if you want to talk about them. I will probably part 1 or 2 of them out but the bodies on all of them are in great shape as is the glass etc. Will be hard to figure out which to keep! The IH fleet is getting too big.
Dan (chico)
530-520-3535
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Wheels arrived yesterday fresh from the wheel smith. Painted then yesterday evening. Mount and balance tires Saturday. Then install on truck. Hope it still drives as nice as before. Only a small (1-1/4") shift in tire centerline so I don't expect much change.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Got the tires mounted this weekend and put back on the travelette.
So original wheels were 16 x 5.5 with 4.5" back spacing.
New wheels with oem centers are 16 x 8 with a 4.5" back spacing.
The increase in width of 2-1/2 inches only moved the tire center 1-1/4 inches. Before the wheel change the brakes were smooth at highway speeds with only a small sense that the drums were not 100% round. Now? Holy moly, shaky in an under statement but only at speed. Once below 45-50 it is ok
other than needing to do the front brakes now the truck drives and feels fine. No shaking at 70.
Thanks Jeff for finding me doner wheels.
So original wheels were 16 x 5.5 with 4.5" back spacing.
New wheels with oem centers are 16 x 8 with a 4.5" back spacing.
The increase in width of 2-1/2 inches only moved the tire center 1-1/4 inches. Before the wheel change the brakes were smooth at highway speeds with only a small sense that the drums were not 100% round. Now? Holy moly, shaky in an under statement but only at speed. Once below 45-50 it is ok
other than needing to do the front brakes now the truck drives and feels fine. No shaking at 70.
Thanks Jeff for finding me doner wheels.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Now you see them
Now you don't
Stay tuned.
Now you don't
Stay tuned.
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Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
One hint. 
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Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
During mock up, a significant snag has shown it's ugly head... 
I'll try and solve it but it won't be easy.
I'll try and solve it but it won't be easy.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
There is a solution to my dilemma, but it is not an off the shelf parts deal with a couple of mods. I simply don't have time to move forward and satisfy my critical nature so the tried and true (?) stock OEM brakes are going back on along with new bearings and
seals.
I'll work on replacement rear drums instead in a little while.
I really want to restore this T-ette and enjoy it in nice original condition.
Plan it to tackle the minimal cowl rust, rebuild the 304 with maybe a couple of tweaks, revert the interior to the LST speced bucket seats with a console, end return the OEM rear bench seat and upholstery. Replace the OEM head liner and carpet.
Paint and body comes first. I have a few guys to go to for that. Will take the truck to AZ for paint or bring AZ here.
I don't do water born nor do I like the urethane crap that you get in single stage. Get out the car trailer, we're going for a ride. 
seals.
I'll work on replacement rear drums instead in a little while.
I really want to restore this T-ette and enjoy it in nice original condition.
Plan it to tackle the minimal cowl rust, rebuild the 304 with maybe a couple of tweaks, revert the interior to the LST speced bucket seats with a console, end return the OEM rear bench seat and upholstery. Replace the OEM head liner and carpet.
Paint and body comes first. I have a few guys to go to for that. Will take the truck to AZ for paint or bring AZ here.
I don't do water born nor do I like the urethane crap that you get in single stage. Get out the car trailer, we're going for a ride. Rob Gojkovich
Member
Robert, I acquired those bucket seats with the console had them redone and put in my 66 T'ette. The console I had modified to include modern electronics and cup holders in order to keep the rest of the interior original. I did do the headliner a bit more plush to help with noise and heat. I have AC and it helps out tremendously keeping the cab cool.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
I've been keeping an eye open for the bucket/console package but nothing yet. I just like original if reasonably possible.
Do you have photos to share? I would like to see the seats in action.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
During mock up, a significant snag has shown it's ugly head...
I'll try and solve it but it won't be easy.
I know I said I was going to put the OEM brakes back on, but hold on. I ordered a very promising set of calipers. I have a great rotor spec'd in but want to update my CAD drawing for the calipers, rotors, and brackets before buying them.
A few of requirements that the front disk brakes need to meet.
1) Fit 16' steel wheels.
2) Utilize off the shelf calipers and pads.
3) Utilize large off the shelf rotors with only minor if any mods.
4) No machining required to the axle, spindles.
5) Use stock wheel hubs. (only minor tuning needed)
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I like the way in which you think!
Outside of the difficulty in finding tubeless wheels (Stockton Wheel still has them in stock) and the near impossible search with impossible prices for brake drums there really isn't anything wrong with the axles on my D1200 T-all. They are stout and sturdy. What more could you want outside of better brakes?
It would be really nice if there was a way in which to update the brakes without having to change out the axles.
I realize part of the update would be to add a dual circuit M/C and a booster. But if you went with hydraboost it wouldn't be that hard down the road to add power steering or power assist.
Outside of the difficulty in finding tubeless wheels (Stockton Wheel still has them in stock) and the near impossible search with impossible prices for brake drums there really isn't anything wrong with the axles on my D1200 T-all. They are stout and sturdy. What more could you want outside of better brakes?
It would be really nice if there was a way in which to update the brakes without having to change out the axles.
I realize part of the update would be to add a dual circuit M/C and a booster. But if you went with hydraboost it wouldn't be that hard down the road to add power steering or power assist.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Do you have the big closed knuckle 44 on you D series?
Stay tuned, I plan on solving the unobtainium brake problems we face. I am a tried and true purest, but I believe that the old car gods would understand if we made them safe. If we can build a 150mph hotrod you better be able to stop and steer it.
Stay tuned, I plan on solving the unobtainium brake problems we face. I am a tried and true purest, but I believe that the old car gods would understand if we made them safe. If we can build a 150mph hotrod you better be able to stop and steer it.