Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Yep! That is the one and the scroll housing is reused.
152 rebuild
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Most likely your water pump housing needs to see alotta luv!
If you are going to have your machine shop do a bake and blast job on the block for cleaning, have them do the pump housing also.
The housing in this pic is going on the stroker 152 Robert and I keep jawwin' about. It was considered scrap and beyond use when I found it in a pile of parts...heavy corrosion internally and the volute appeared to be badly eroded. Turns out it was all surface contamination, the volute machined into this housing is absolutely perfect.
Spent two hours with rotary wire brushes inside the casting and it's now near virgin. That's not paint on it but a version of "glyptal" I use inside these engines and castings. The stuff I use now comes from a local electric motor rebuilder, called "insulating epoxy coating" from aervoe industries. About $10 a can.
welcome!
Another type I keep here comes from a local electronic supply house..."red-x corona dope", from gc electronics. It's a polyester-base product, the other stuff is epoxy-base.
If you are going to have your machine shop do a bake and blast job on the block for cleaning, have them do the pump housing also.
The housing in this pic is going on the stroker 152 Robert and I keep jawwin' about. It was considered scrap and beyond use when I found it in a pile of parts...heavy corrosion internally and the volute appeared to be badly eroded. Turns out it was all surface contamination, the volute machined into this housing is absolutely perfect.
Spent two hours with rotary wire brushes inside the casting and it's now near virgin. That's not paint on it but a version of "glyptal" I use inside these engines and castings. The stuff I use now comes from a local electric motor rebuilder, called "insulating epoxy coating" from aervoe industries. About $10 a can.
welcome!
Another type I keep here comes from a local electronic supply house..."red-x corona dope", from gc electronics. It's a polyester-base product, the other stuff is epoxy-base.
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Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
This is a link directly to the aervoe product:
insulating epoxy - aervoe industries incorporated
The inside of all engine castings I work with gets coated with this stuff. You must wear a respirator and ventilate the area extremely well when working with it. I do not use it for a topcoat on anything external.
As for exterior engine paint...I use whatever I can find at my local parts house that they have on "special" (they deal in alotta bankrupt stock/salvage/etc.). In fact, many times I use wallyworld housebrand rattlecan stuff that is $1.06 a can! No need for "high temp" on the engine!
On the high end Ford fe motor Todd and I built this past winter we used the aervoe engine paint which is very highdollar. I was not impressed with it vs. Wallyworld rattlecan and will not ever use that stuff again...waste of cash!
The only thing that will stay on an exhaust manifold is to have it done in ceramic after it's properly prepped. And about the time you go to that expense, when ya install the head pipe one of the mounting ears will break off or it will crack! I put nothing on the exhaust manifolds, just clean 'em up and install.
For any external engine work that requires the use of "red" paint, I now use only van sickle implement paint from the local farm supply in "case/IH red, p/n 455 70". Extremely high in solids...while it takes more than 48 hours to cure, once it's kicked it's indistinguishable from powdercoat. Same for their general purpose black or other colors.
This pic is a "reclaimed" valve cover that had been under water for some time and was really rotten. The baffle was totally clogged and grunged. Took about an hour of labor to make it useable again since I needed one with the baffle and an oil filler port along with the threaded boss. This is glyptaled inside...the exterior was shot with van sickle rattlecan.
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Mastiff
Member
So, high temp engine paint really isn't needed? Everyone seems convinced that specialty paint is required for this. If you guys are confident that van sickle IH red will work for the whole engine, I'll go that route. Is that what you have on your engine Robert? It looks like IH red in the pics.
I've been going back and forth between ideas on the color. The red would be cool, but I also thought it might be cool to paint the whole thing the industrial gray machinery color... Possibly also black for the block and IH red for all the accessories and covers. Decision decisions.
I've been going back and forth between ideas on the color. The red would be cool, but I also thought it might be cool to paint the whole thing the industrial gray machinery color... Possibly also black for the block and IH red for all the accessories and covers. Decision decisions.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
I used a iternational harvester red sold by car quest. Just a normal implement paint. Jeff also stocks a good IH red paint. If you buy parts from him have him send you a couple of cans.
On small parts that will fit into the oven I bake @ 150 - 175 f for 2 hours. Wait untill the paint dries to the touch before cooking. It increases gloss and hardness.
If you want a grey, how about lycoming gray.
On small parts that will fit into the oven I bake @ 150 - 175 f for 2 hours. Wait untill the paint dries to the touch before cooking. It increases gloss and hardness.
If you want a grey, how about lycoming gray.
Mastiff
Member
If you want a grey, how about lycoming gray.
Of course, why didn't I think of that? I just got back from buying six cans of IH red though, so I guess I'll stick with that. I should have my first batch of clean parts back today. No time left to waffle.
I bought primer... Do you guys prime?
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
I do not prime for rattle can paint jobs. Only time I prime is on a block with prior corrosion and they I use the rust converter primer then re coat the next day to ensure all solvents have flashed off before adding color.
For anything that really must look "show" quality I spray automotive grade catalyzed finish paint and add a flattening agent for a semi gloss look over etching clear primer/sealer.
For anything that really must look "show" quality I spray automotive grade catalyzed finish paint and add a flattening agent for a semi gloss look over etching clear primer/sealer.
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
I don't prime engine/transmission unless it's trailer queen stuff.
I force dry the van sickle rattlecan on occasion using halogen work lamps.
With the underhood temps, oil mist/leak, engine coolant mist, fuel vapors, and watermud no engine paint work stays fresh for long. Then throw in the corrosive crap that comes off the highways in wintertime.
I force dry the van sickle rattlecan on occasion using halogen work lamps.
With the underhood temps, oil mist/leak, engine coolant mist, fuel vapors, and watermud no engine paint work stays fresh for long. Then throw in the corrosive crap that comes off the highways in wintertime.
Mastiff
Member
This is interesting to me:
Scout 80 header (new):ebay motors (item 260473732695 end time sep-14-09 09:12:25 pdt)
Didn't know these were available. Does it make a noticeable difference on a 152?
Scout 80 header (new):ebay motors (item 260473732695 end time sep-14-09 09:12:25 pdt)
Didn't know these were available. Does it make a noticeable difference on a 152?
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
For a basicly stock 152 it won't help the top end hp and torque as much as it hurts the low end.
Mastiff
Member
Well, the shop has my block clean and checked. They are going 0.03 over on the cylinders and will be able to save the crank. New pistons are on order. I had the bumpy shaped extra compression pistons, and the new ones will be like that. He said he found flat tops too, but the compression is only 8:1 or so with those.
Everything I have at home is painted and ready to go. Meanwhile I'm rebuilding the trans and t-case and redoing the electrical. I have other threads going on those.
Everything I have at home is painted and ready to go. Meanwhile I'm rebuilding the trans and t-case and redoing the electrical. I have other threads going on those.
Eric VanBuren
Member
The "bumpy shaped" pistons are also known as the "special contour design", or "non-e", they net the same cr when used with their corresponding head. To switch to the "flat top" piston you would need to switch to it's corresponding head.
Mastiff
Member
Good to know. What is the cr when things are matched right?
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
8.0-1 for both setups.
A note on the pistons. Only one piston mfg retains the stock height so you will retain your compression ratio. Those are silvo-lite. All others from what I have seen are decompressed .020 so you will net a lower cr.
Also due to the fact that your engine's c-ratio is based on the original steel head gasket, when you use the available composite gasket that has a compressed thickness of .040 you need to remove .020 from the deck to retain the already low 8-1.
This is easy for your machine shop and they should be cleaning the deck surface anyway.
A note on the pistons. Only one piston mfg retains the stock height so you will retain your compression ratio. Those are silvo-lite. All others from what I have seen are decompressed .020 so you will net a lower cr.
Also due to the fact that your engine's c-ratio is based on the original steel head gasket, when you use the available composite gasket that has a compressed thickness of .040 you need to remove .020 from the deck to retain the already low 8-1.
This is easy for your machine shop and they should be cleaning the deck surface anyway.
Mastiff
Member
This is great to know. I called the guy at the shop to sensitize him to this. Thanks. Is there any non-radical way to get the compression up more? I had in my head that 9-10 was a good high-ish range for a street vehicle.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
9-1 is probably the limit for a non quench engine like the non emission setup you have. More and detonation can/will be chronic.
Your engine will need to be ckecked for valve to piston clearence before removing more than I indicated for gasket thickness compensation. The flat top IH setup can be modified more because the piston doesn't extend into the cc like the contoured dome setup like your's.
Your engine will need to be ckecked for valve to piston clearence before removing more than I indicated for gasket thickness compensation. The flat top IH setup can be modified more because the piston doesn't extend into the cc like the contoured dome setup like your's.
Mastiff
Member
Well, everything is almost ready from the shop, except that the crank May not be salvagable after all, at least not to our satisfaction. He's ground 30 thousandths off it and it still isn't great. It would probably work, but I want it to be right after going to all this trouble.
The guy at the shop is putting out feelers locally to try and find one. Shipping would not be pretty on something that heavy, but I'll go that route if necessary.
The guy at the shop is putting out feelers locally to try and find one. Shipping would not be pretty on something that heavy, but I'll go that route if necessary.
Mastiff
Member
I got my order from ihon today with a bunch of stuff I ordered to complete this project. I ordered a rebuilt clutch fork and new throwout bearing assembly. I was surprised to see the throwout bearing was nos and pretty old and grimy, a little rusty. Is this how it has to be? I mean, are truly new assemblies not available?
I don't mean to offend anyone at ihon, but I want to do this right if I can. I didn't write Jeff right away because I wanted to get the tech-guy input. Thanks.
I don't mean to offend anyone at ihon, but I want to do this right if I can. I didn't write Jeff right away because I wanted to get the tech-guy input. Thanks.
stu simpson
Member
Bearings are available new. If you got a nos sleeve, that is fortunate as there will be no wear. I would trade a clean old sleeve for a slightly rusty nos sleeve any day. I think the whole assembly pressed together hasn't been available from ihc for 15 years or longer.