152 rebuild

For the rockers arms, what's the best way to seal the threads on the hold-down bolts? I was going to put a little rtv on the threads, but I got a little nervous when I realized there is an oil passage coming through on one of them.

Also, what's the torque spec on those? It's not specifically called out, just lumped under 5/16" bolts at 15 ft-lbs... Is that right?

Thanks.
 
I woul not recomend rtv on threads althugh it mak work I have not tried it. I would use a product like arp thread sealer or the permatex thread sealer. Even permatex 2 will do. Only the bolts that enter the intake ports need sealing and only apply to the first 5 threads to avoid fouling the surrounding area.

15-18 ftlbs is fine, liking 15 better to avoid cracking the rocker stands.
 
Since I had metal in my engine, what should I do regarding my rocker arm assembly? Should I take it completely apart? I was looking it over and I'm not 100% sure how I'd go about tearing it down. Are the stands just pressed on lightly and can be tapped off? I think the "bore" has some plugs pressed in, I assume those must come out. Any suggestions on how to get them out? Mine are fairly deep in. Also, should new plugs be gettable at the local parts shop or....? Thanks for the help.

Oh, and the lifters. Should those all come apart too?
 
Someone pointed me to michael's very thorough write-up on the rockers, so most of my questions are answered. I pulled mine apart and everything looks pretty good. One spot on the shaft is slightly worn, but I only measure 0.001". There is a slight ridge though, I'm wondering if I should smooth it out with fine sandpaper or something? Should I wire wheel the whole thing?
 
mastiff said:
what's the technique for torquing the crank pulley bolt down without the engine turning?
Click to expand...

One way to do this would be to get a certain cylinder in the last 90* before combustion tdc, and slip a good bit of rope into an empty plug hole. This was also suggested to me in the event that valve springs needed replaced with heads on. Either way, if you have enough rope that it doesn't just compress it should work.
 
greg r said:
The oil pump specifications show the thrust clearance is .0015" to .006", you gasket between the pump body and cover to that specification; one or a couple of thin gaskets are used to attain that. You could make your own as Robert suggested.
Then again, just looking good don't mean much as it really needs measured to determine suitability.
Push your thumb down on the gears, the gear to body clearance is .0014" to .005" measured with a feeler gage.
Holding the driven gear, measure the idler gear backlash, it should be .003 to .006"
shaft clearance is .001 to .002", it's work to take apart and measure so let's say any wobble however slight is cause to toss it.
If you take the cotter pin out of the relief body, you can check the relief valve spring and valve. Unloaded, the spring must measure 3 to 3 11/32". The bore must be clean, no varnish, and the valve to bore clearance is .004 to .008.
With all that, you can see why a new pump can be good insurance.
Click to expand...

I got a new oil pump. I'm finding I can't install the oil screen though. There's a roll pin that holds it in, and on the old one the space between the roll pin hole and the neck down where the tube goes in is about the distance of the o-ring plus the collar on the tube. On the new one, that space it about half that, so the collar interferes when the o-ring is in place (I can't push it in far enough to make space for the roll pin). Anyone have any ideas what is going on? It seems highly unlikely that it was actually built wrong, but I'm not seeing how to make this thing work without leaving out the o-ring (which came with the pump).
 
Do you guys suggest using any kind of sealer on the intake manifold gasket, or just installing it dry? I don't know if there are different types, but my gasket is stamped steel. I was told by one person to install it dry, but I can't quite see how it's going to seal. The manifold face is peened a little from getting blasted. Thanks.
 
The wrong sealer to use in nothing on the steel "shim" type of gaskets. Make sure the head and intake manifold gasket surfaces are clean and free of big defects. I recomend permatex copper spray gasket sealer. It is a spray on type of coating that works great for the steel only head gaskets and other steel embosed type of gasket .
 

Attachments

  • DisplayImage.jpg
    DisplayImage.jpg
    17.6 KB · Views: 593
Last edited:
I'm getting close here. Any suggestions on how to get the oil filler tube into the front cover? I've cleaned up the end really well, but it just gets insanely tight a little less than half way in and really sticks. I can tell a po tried beating on the tube at the bend since it's dented in some. I wanted to have a film of rtv on it, but I have since tried lightly oiling it instead still with no luck. The only thing I haven't tried yet is freezing the tube, or getting some emery cloth and actually trying to remove material from the tube.

In hindsight I should have sanded the receptacle part of the cover, but now it's all installed, so it's kinda too late. I don't want to get metal into the motor.

Also, any specific recommendations for exhaust manifold bolts?

Thanks for the help.
 
The tube relies on the shrink fit to seal and stabilize the joint.
I have always heated the cover using a torch so the cover will expand allowing the to slip in. Hold it in place until the cover cools enough to grip the tube. Heat until water bubbles rapidly and jumps around (300-f).

You can also apply a very thin film your fav. Sealer to the tube.

Exhaust manifold bolt threads get a liberal coating of anti-seize. And torque very evenly to spec.
 
Digging through my rebuild gasket set I found two tiny gaskets that clearly go with the oil pump. When I pulled the old pump off there were no gaskets, are these required or beneficial? My pan is on, so it would be a minor pain to do this, but I will if they are needed. Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top