jetfxr
Member
and along with every early Ford hard top. My 30 a had them and it made a huge differance on a hot day.
Really.......... 3 minutes?:d
Come on guys, the idea is you don't move down until you have a guess.
34 Hot Rod Pickup
- Thread starter jetfxr
- Start date
Come on guys, the idea is you don't move down until you have a guess.
jetfxr
Member
c'mon jetfxr, you only gave 3 minutes to be able to answer the q- I knew what they were when I saw them, but only because I own a 36 that had them on it.what did you find for the t bolts/thumb screws to cinch them down? I had to create my own, but they arent correct- just functional.
Are you going to chrome the windshield frame? My friend has a 34 c-30 that had a chrome frame originally. It is beyond cool, but needs a complete restoration.
Great looking parts by the way. Wish I had duplicates of all of them...
I had the windshield frame powder coated with "wet white" powder, I know it will take a pounding so I wanted it to be tough.
Great plan on the windshield.
After the early Ford comment, I did a little digging- the desc says die cast on these, but I hope that is a typo.
early Ford store of CA - antique Ford parts - original & reproduction 1928-1959 Ford cars & trucks
I was only ribbing you on the "3 minutes" thing. I love the theme of your build, binder power, tons of one of a kind chrome... I would love to see it at either the Binder Bee or the binder bash in the pac nw.
Keep the updates coming and great job!
John
After the early Ford comment, I did a little digging- the desc says die cast on these, but I hope that is a typo.
early Ford store of CA - antique Ford parts - original & reproduction 1928-1959 Ford cars & trucks
I was only ribbing you on the "3 minutes" thing. I love the theme of your build, binder power, tons of one of a kind chrome... I would love to see it at either the Binder Bee or the binder bash in the pac nw.
Keep the updates coming and great job!
John
jetfxr
Member
You need to plan a trip to the just internationals show. I will try and make the coast shows but that is a haul for me and my bride enjoys showing off here ls1 Scout. I am a supporting member of the rmihr and this one is a must for me. I would love to make it out to Jeff's deal but we will have to see how everything goes. I have a 61 Scout 80 that I did a frame off on earlier this year and I would love to bring it also, retro wheelin sounds cool to me.
Here's the window frame, I will be dropping it off to have a glass fitted next week. I am also waiting for the seat to come back from upholstery so I can get it all fitted up before the cab goes to paint.
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jetfxr
Member
So the alt looked like a pinwheel sticking out of the side. I wanted something cool for the hotrod and after chatting with several folks this is what I came up with. Let the conversation begain, bare in mind there is a kit for a Ford 9", plus if you look close you see a harvester pully is very close to bolt on just had to inlarge the mount holes
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Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
You've gotta tell us how that works. I think that is a great solution to this the pin wheel deal. I've always wanted to try it just never had the oppertunity ti rig it up on a new or old build.
FDChappie
Well-known member
That is not going to spin the alternator fast enough to do much charging unless you're doing 50+. Unless you've got 5:77 gears in that dif.
It's a killer combo if you plan to use an electric fan. If it's a 1 wire even worse due to the voltage drop in the long wire to the fuse block. Is the battery under the seat in that truck?
And how are you going to tension the fan belts?
It's a killer combo if you plan to use an electric fan. If it's a 1 wire even worse due to the voltage drop in the long wire to the fuse block. Is the battery under the seat in that truck?
And how are you going to tension the fan belts?
jetfxr
Member
Just looking at the set up and chatting with folks in the know I call bs. If your truck idles at 800rpms then the alt will charge at idle or just off idle, that said the drive shaft will be spinning at the same speed as the motor in one to one (no od) therefore any time I am driving in third gear the alt will be above the idle speed, as I said before this is not rocket science and has been done many times in the past, in fact you can buy a kit for a nine inch Ford diff. So that said there will be very little draw on a deep cycle optima battery, unlike my SSII no welder, no winches, no heater or ac only an ign system and cooling fans when the truck needs them.
Ok here's a shot with the belt on all tensioned up. You can also see the tensioning adjuster in this picture.
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jetfxr
Member
This is all about kool factor, here I got the transmission cooler installed and plumbed. This will keep the transmission heat from the radiator and before everyone chimes in no trailer, the truck will weigh very little so I don't think heat will be an issue. In fact this is the biggest in line cooler I could find.
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jetfxr
Member
Here's a shot of the plumbing, I spent my life as an air o plane mechanic so steel braided hoses are second nature. This should be very sanitary and always look cool when someone look at the underside (with a mirror) the truck will only be a couple inches off the ground. And as a side note the exhaust will be header/side pipes and will be on the outside of the frame.
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jetfxr
Member
Here's a shot of the locar kick down cable, this works great with the 727. In fact I like it better than the factory setup. As far as the transmission when I had the transmission rebuilt, I took the case had it glass bleed blasted then clear powder coated. After that I had my transmission guy rebuild it with a shift kit and deep sump chrome pan.
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FDChappie
Well-known member
Well with a light load it will probably be ok. There is a really small pulley that used on a starter/generator that will give about 2x the rpm's and will charge better.
I'd guess that at freeway speeds you'll see 2000 rpm on the shaft with a 7" pulley driving a 3.5" pulley on the alternator you'll see 4000 rpm on the alternator. That will give 50 amps on a 62 amp alternator. That will work.
I'd guess that at freeway speeds you'll see 2000 rpm on the shaft with a 7" pulley driving a 3.5" pulley on the alternator you'll see 4000 rpm on the alternator. That will give 50 amps on a 62 amp alternator. That will work.
Tiny Yokum
Member
Outstanding build. Looking great.
Awesome!!!
I am loving the one of a kind touches you are doing on this build!
As far as the tensioning, I thought I saw a power steering pump bracket in the piles of chrome parts. That would allow a place to tension the water pump belt.
Or- for the vintage look you could go with a gutted non functioning generator that had the tensioner on it, but only served as an arbor. Im building a traditional inspired kb hot-rod
now and might very well consider the alt on the rear axle/ gen on the engine.
You are certainly figuring things out on your own, but some grain o salt input comes with the territory.
I wont likely make it top the rmihr before I swap a cummins into my travelette. The 11 mpg on the tow rig might just be a deal breaker at this point. Not sure where I could get a trailer long enough to hall them all in a single trip
I am loving the one of a kind touches you are doing on this build!
As far as the tensioning, I thought I saw a power steering pump bracket in the piles of chrome parts. That would allow a place to tension the water pump belt.
Or- for the vintage look you could go with a gutted non functioning generator that had the tensioner on it, but only served as an arbor. Im building a traditional inspired kb hot-rod
now and might very well consider the alt on the rear axle/ gen on the engine.
You are certainly figuring things out on your own, but some grain o salt input comes with the territory.
I wont likely make it top the rmihr before I swap a cummins into my travelette. The 11 mpg on the tow rig might just be a deal breaker at this point. Not sure where I could get a trailer long enough to hall them all in a single trip
jetfxr
Member
well with a light load it will probably be ok. There is a really small pulley that used on a starter/generator that will give about 2x the rpm's and will charge better.
I'd guess that at freeway speeds you'll see 2000 rpm on the shaft with a 7" pulley driving a 3.5" pulley on the alternator you'll see 4000 rpm on the alternator. That will give 50 amps on a 62 amp alternator. That will work.
I am glad I have your approvel, guess I will continue with my hotrod. Thank you for giving me the go ahead
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Man, I bet you were about to abandon the entire mission if that alt wouldnt charge, having a custom 1.25" alt pulley would have been way more than the project was worth...
Keep up the great work man. Hats off to ya!
Just in case I never see this beauty in person, can I request a you-tube vid of this thing leaving the line at max rpm?
I have got to hear that engine.
Keep up the great work man. Hats off to ya!
Just in case I never see this beauty in person, can I request a you-tube vid of this thing leaving the line at max rpm?
I have got to hear that engine.
jetfxr
Member
For those of you who are following this build here's a little incite on brake plumbing. Coincidentally this is the way I have my SSII is set up also. Plumb the front brakes directly from the master cylinder and the use an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear brakes. Then when you set up the brakes adjust the valve so that the rear brakes lock up well after the front ones do. Here a picture of the valve mounted on my truck, you will see the conduit that will be used for wiring just above the valve.
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jetfxr
Member
As far as the belt for the water pump goes, I spoke with Jeff today, the plane it to walk a belt on between the crank and water pump. The truck will have an electric fans, and no other accessorys so this should be fine. If I need to I will take a pulley loose, and work the belt on this way