34 Hot Rod Pickup

Robert, you usually make a statement with all your builds and this is a huge statement. Although I have nothing against using foreign motors in an IH, there is something very pure about what you are doing. I hope you end up bringing that truck up to oregon for the Binder Bee more than any other IH you have.
 
drew merrick said:
Robert, you usually make a statement with all your builds and this is a huge statement. Although I have nothing against using foreign motors in an IH, there is something very pure about what you are doing. I hope you end up bringing that truck up to oregon for the Binder Bee more than any other IH you have.
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Drew, I have tried to make it several times to the bee or ihon deal, but running a business and a full time hobby seem to get in the way. My right hand guy ricky pasted away and I have had a very hard time finding a someone to fill his shoes, hell I can't find anyone that comes close. I will try again, just have to see if the airlines can live without my services for a few days.
 
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Time for an update, I have been working a bunch at the airport so progress has been a little slow. Got the front end mostly together, still need to get one bolt to connect the drag link. But the rest is all done.
 

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Next up folks are wondering about the rolling stock, here is what it will start with. I my change out the wheels latter, thats one of the cool things about the hot rod a wheel change will change the overall look. Also I got the kingpins pressed in, if you have a small shop a press is one of the tools I use most and never thought I even needed one:icon_idea:
 

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How about a money shot, this is bad ass:icon_heartbeat: the radiator cap is a repop for a 34 Ford but I think it looks good on the shell.
 

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One more shot from a different position, for the record I had to buy three of the crank opening chrome parts. The ones are always haggard from jerking out the crank back in the day they are oval (fords are round). I also was lucky enough to find a guy that was remaking the mesh, he had them water jeted out of stainless and I had it powder coated. I wanted it black to contrast the chrome and white.
 

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Well today I got the engine and transmission installed. I will be installing the transmission coolers, and start getting the rear axle ready to install. Here's the picture for the day.
 

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Got the rear axle all cleaned up and a coat of harvester red on it should be able to install it tomorrow. I feel like a commy using an 8.8, but 3:73 disc brake for 150 bones and I needed the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern to match the front. I will also be installing a nice chrome cover.

Although it does look different the paint is the same as the engine, should darken up as it dries.
 

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These axles have a nice disc brake set up, and I hear they are very strong. The hot rod will be very light so I think the axle will be fine also the rear is set up with coil overs and hair pins so wheel hop should not be an issue.
 

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This ant your daddy's harvester:ihih: well it's a roller so until I get the paint work done this is where it goes on hold.
 

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The rear suspension consists of hair pins, coilover shocks and a pan hard bar. This is easy to adjust and should be a very stable system. The coilovers are chrome as are the hairpins, this is a hotrod and chrome counts.
 

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Here's the last picture for the day, an overall look at the stance and look of the chassis.
 

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Thanks for the detailed buildup. The c series trucks make the sweetest looking rods. Yours is even cooler with binder power.

I have to say, I love the travelette you have too. It seems we May have somewhat parallel collections, but I dont have any ls 1 scouts.

Thanks for being so detailed in the build thread.

Regards,
john
 
So I went over to a friends shop, he did a bunch of the chassis fab on my 34. I guess he got the harvester bug also. Here is a picture of his project, it will have a pick up bed and be running super singles 18" wide on the rear. He has the frame built for it and it will be on air bags also. Just having the detroit diesel and the 13 spd transmission will make this a hell for pulling a trailer.
 

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You can see how much he dropped the frame in this picture.
 

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Here you see how much he has dropped the frame for the old school leaf springs and how beefy his hand made frame is.
 

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Well the chrome shop finished up the last of the parts I had sent over. It's like Christmas opening the box when it arrives:yesnod: here's a peek before I get them installed.
 

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I have never tried this before, so I have a 50 ton press in my shop and I pressed a water pump apart. I then sent it out for chrome, I plan on getting a new pump and use the new parts going back together.
 

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Here's your harvester test.............................................where do these go on the truck
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not the water tube clamps :hand: the parts next to them. Go to the next window and see if you guessed correctly.
 

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They are the 1934 air conditioning system.......they are the windshield hold open struts :icon_blaugh:
 
C'mon jetfxr, you only gave 3 minutes to be able to answer the q- I knew what they were when I saw them, but only because I own a 36 that had them on it. :thumbsup: what did you find for the t bolts/thumb screws to cinch them down? I had to create my own, but they arent correct- just functional.

Are you going to chrome the windshield frame? My friend has a 34 c-30 that had a chrome frame originally. It is beyond cool, but needs a complete restoration.

Great looking parts by the way. Wish I had duplicates of all of them...
 
And along with every early Ford hard top. My 30 a had them and it made a huge differance on a hot day.

Really.......... 3 minutes? :out: :d
 
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jetfxr said:
I have never tried this before, so I have a 50 ton press in my shop and I pressed a water pump apart. I then sent it out for chrome, I plan on getting a new pump and use the new parts going back together.
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You need the bearing and seal right? You can get the parts you need from a rebuilder. I rebuild all of my own pumps and the most you'll pay for parts is $20-25. Gotta place by me if you are interested. Can put you the info and you can call.
Iirc they use a unit bearing and seal common to GM.
 
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