Before and After of My Scout 80 CS

Greg,
you posted again while I was typing and dealing with employees.

When you torque the hub on to the taper is the nut or washer bottoming on the end of the shaft taper? Take the nut off and look. You May not be generating enough clamping force. If you think that is a possibility add a washer so the hub has the ability to be forced on the taper unimpeded.

I have two hubs that were enlarged so the nut would bottom before reaching enough clamping load.
 
the fit was checked with dykem and hand lapped on the high areas
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Thanks Robert, you resusitated some long forgotten memories. I've done that type of work on turbine generator journal bearings many many years ago. We didn't use crocus, but what we called cherry stones. I haven't run out of thread yet, but added a washer anyway as the nut was getting far from the cotter pin. I have a couple of used tapered axle shafts with scored or fretted tapers. Now that you've mentioned hand lapping the high spots,(strange I didn't think of this), I have hope that with getting the seal lands reground or sleeved, they can be restored to servicable use.
I guess it depends on the lapping compound vehicle, but hot water and soap is what I was taught to remove residuals. Solvents or kerosene won't do it. I wash the hubs in the sink when no one is looking:gringrin:
 
Using loctite "green" on the taper will not impede hub removal at a later point. But for it to develop full capabilities ya must use primer.
 
Thanks Mike. I have the red and primer, so green must be for removable? So it'll be a trip to industrial supply.
 
Michael, thank you for the compliment. I am enjoying it a lot more since finishing it. Well are they ever really finished?:icon_eek:
 
I have been asked a few times about the top on my Scout so I decided to post some pictures of the structure that connects it the window to the roll bar. It also gives the top some shape. The verticle side flaps (I guess you'd call them that) cover the upper edge of the roll up window when it is up to prevent rain from getting in. I built the tube structure but had the top custom made at a local canvas and upholstery shop for $100.00 including installing and placing the snaps.

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Where did you find the bikini top for it ive been looking for one for a while now and can only find them for the Scout 2
 
Every time I look at this thread, you're rig inspires me to get working on mine Robert. What kind of lift do you have and what size tires?
 
Thanks' if I can help get more scouts or any IH on the road for that matter I am happy.. I need to finish it though as the dash and window frames are rough still.

I have mr Scout 2 1/2" lift springs and another 1" net lift from longer shackles. The tires are 32x10x16. It really needs a bit more lift for the tires because it will rub at the extreme right or left stop.

Jeff has talked about offering a ihon custom made lift spring set for the 80/800 with around 3 1/2 " of lift that will net 4 1/2 inches with the needed longer shackle. Call him and see if he has them yet.
 
I know, old thread...but I love your Scout, hope I can make my 80 look like that before I get my drivers license. Anyways, im wondering what size tires are you running?
 
Hey Robert, not sure if you're still monitoring the thread but I was wondering if you had to modify anything steering-wise to tolerate the lift? I think you said new shackles are required? Why is that?

There was a thread a while back where you and michael dispensed some advice regarding shackles and shims, but I can't seem to find it.

Inspiring rig by the way. I keep coming back to see it as a great example of a moderate build. I'm in tucson now, so having a viable off road machine is important, but I still want it to look right, not like a mini monster truck. My initial plan was to order some 2" or so springs from alcan and just leave it at that since I'm pretty sure I wouldn't get into too much trouble with steering and other stuff, but then I bet that would barely get me to 31" tires...
 
Hey Robert thats almost exactly what I want my 64 80 that I'm picking up next month to sit! Do you know what springs are on it? What size tires are you running? Mine will have the "pretty" part down, but doesnt have the stance.

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mastiff said:
hey Robert, not sure if you're still monitoring the thread but I was wondering if you had to modify anything steering-wise to tolerate the lift? I think you said new shackles are required? Why is that?

There was a thread a while back where you and michael dispensed some advice regarding shackles and shims, but I can't seem to find it.

Inspiring rig by the way. I keep coming back to see it as a great example of a moderate build. I'm in tucson now, so having a viable off road machine is important, but I still want it to look right, not like a mini monster truck. My initial plan was to order some 2" or so springs from alcan and just leave it at that since I'm pretty sure I wouldn't get into too much trouble with steering and other stuff, but then I bet that would barely get me to 31" tires...
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Thanks for the kind words.

Here is a picture of my Scout before the resto and 3/4 lift the shackles gave me.. It has only mr Scout 2 1/2 inch lift springs and shocks on it.

Look at the drag link. See the upward angle? It is worse now after the extra lift the shackles gave me and has some annoying bump steer now. Stock height the drag link is almost parallel to the tie rod and no bump steer. The bump steer also beats the hell out of the steering box.

That was my limitation and prompted me to do a flip of the tie rod to the top of the knuckles arm.. Requires a 7.5 degree taper reamer ($$$) to create the tie rod end taper from the top. Then flip the toe rod to the top. I have not done it yet but have done all of the research to do it soon..

Shackles are going to be required to lift much beyond 2-3 inches. To arch the spring more at the existing leaf length the shackel would be close to flipping over center jaming it against the frame rail. So to stop that the main leaf needs to get longer. That can cause the range of motion at the shackle end to exceed the shackle thus potentialy bending the spring. Along with the spring and it's extended range of motion the shackle needs to be extended to accept the increased range.

My combination gave me the lift I wanted and left the shackle angle at a happy place. It articulates well all things considered and only slightly rubs when making u turns..

I know this is boring but it needed to be explained.. :icon_rotate:
 

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71mtnscout said:
hey Robert thats almost exactly what I want my 64 80 that I'm picking up next month to sit! Do you know what springs are on it? What size tires are you running? Mine will have the "pretty" part down, but doesnt have the stance
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This question. Sorry mastiff, I should have clarified.
 
korllach said:
all of your questions are answered a few times in the posts right above yours.
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Dont know how I missed it..................I must be gettin old!:yikes:

did ihon ever get the lift springs off the ground that you talked about earlier in the thread? I dont see them on the website.
 
So it sounds like you are getting away with 3+ inches of total lift, though with an annoying amount of bumpsteer, if I understand right. Isn't it possible to get a draglink with a bend in it to help?

Regarding shackles, if lift springs are custom made for the application, can't they be made longer so the shackle doesn't need to take up any extra length (can be in a good spot with vehicle level on flat ground)?

Did you use any shims to help with pinion angles?

Thanks for the help.
 
mastiff said:
So it sounds like you are getting away with 3+ inches of total lift, though with an annoying amount of bumpsteer, if I understand right. Isn't it possible to get a draglink with a bend in it to help?
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Wha you are discribing is a droped drag link (shaped like a z) they do npthing to lessen bumpsteer. It is the angle of a plane through the box end of the drag link and the tierod end not the shape of the drag link.. Seems like it would help but if you lay it out it becomes clear.

mastiff said:
Regarding shackles, if lift springs are custom made for the application, can't they be made longer so the shackle doesn't need to take up any extra length (can be in a good spot with vehicle level on flat ground)?

Did you use any shims to help with pinion angles?

Thanks for the help.
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How much longer the springs are made you May get away with the stock shackles but the longer spring has a longer range of motion and to flex fully will require a longer shackle. I May go with a longer/taller spring eventually and am ready with my longer shackle.

Yes caster/pinion angle must be compensated for by using angle shims.. I used 3 in the front :cornut: and 4 1/2 degree in the rear.
 
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