T407/TF 727 Band Adjustment
- Thread starter Michael Mayben
- Start date
Craig
Active member
Since this is about maintenance. Every auto I've owned has had issues from lack of maintenance. I just changed out the pan on my tranny to a deep dish and it look bad, not like the one above. But lots of clutch material in the oil. I did the band adjustment r&r the filter and filled it up with red blood. Then I added a can of k&w tranny cleaner sealer. I've used this stuff before will good results. I like to put about a 100 miles on the tranny and then drain and fill again, but no filter change. Then drive it a while, say several hundred and drain and fill again. This get the cleaner sealer out and the insides get all cleaned up too. Since I'm thinking about rebuilding mine I would like to start with a clean tranny.
micheal ever use this stuff?
micheal ever use this stuff?
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Craig...consider yoreself bitchslapped...again!
I can preach about snakeoil for hours so I won't. Robertc's comment is the same one I expounded continuously!
If "stuff" is stuck inside the tranny (as in varnish deposit), it's not hurting anything!! Breaking it loose will cause the damage and can completely trash a valve body! Same for the guts of the torque converter!
Fresh atf alone has a considerable "solvent" action, some formulations more than others. That is why I always advise that if a tranny has never been serviced, doing so onna high milage unit will most likely create some shifting issues. The only way to handle that is a complete teardown, inspection, cleaning, and rebuild.
That "sealer" shit is just like that nylock shit for mobile hvac systems...a contaminate. It works by being reactive with the non-metallic components...ya don't fix a worn out seal by swelling it, ya replace it! And the polymers used in sealing elements (including internally tranny seal rings) used in today's rebuild assemblies are not the same as the stuff used in a tf 727 in 1973! Yes...cast iron rings are cast iron rings, but the rest of the "soft goods" reflect current technology..current silicone/teflon composite sealing elements will not "swell" but will melt!
All that shit that is "released" is gonna collect in the valve body and contaminate the governor, most likely sticking/scoring the pistons. If ya didn't have shifting issues before, ya will now. There is one way to clean something, that is disassemble to the base components, and mechanically clean with appropriate processes, then prelube with appropriate materials as it's being reassembled maintaining cleanliness. Just one frog hair present onna spool valve can cause it to stick inna bore and if it's a blind hole ya May have no way of removing it!
The heavy accumulation of "grit" in the pan and on the filter is normal!!!!! The bands and clutches are consumable items! They are not lifetime components. If the tranny is a fresh rebuild, and ya drop the pan say at 1,000 miles, what ya find in the pan looks like a sandbar in tha new river down on the messkikin border! That's normal!
And if ya run one through a water crossing and stop or slow way down, and ya don't have the relocated vent systems onna sii, then it'll look like pink's pan inside of an hour! Just like the axle "vents", hubs, etc. Water and grit is literally sukked into those heated components.
These trannys have no electronics internally (thankgoodness!!!!), but later versions that do, and receive a dose of snakeoil, will have all sorts of issues develop regarding solenoid deterioration, actuator "sticking", composite materials failure, etc. A shop will always know when snakeoil has been poured in and will bend the customer over accordingly!
I can preach about snakeoil for hours so I won't. Robertc's comment is the same one I expounded continuously!
If "stuff" is stuck inside the tranny (as in varnish deposit), it's not hurting anything!! Breaking it loose will cause the damage and can completely trash a valve body! Same for the guts of the torque converter!
Fresh atf alone has a considerable "solvent" action, some formulations more than others. That is why I always advise that if a tranny has never been serviced, doing so onna high milage unit will most likely create some shifting issues. The only way to handle that is a complete teardown, inspection, cleaning, and rebuild.
That "sealer" shit is just like that nylock shit for mobile hvac systems...a contaminate. It works by being reactive with the non-metallic components...ya don't fix a worn out seal by swelling it, ya replace it! And the polymers used in sealing elements (including internally tranny seal rings) used in today's rebuild assemblies are not the same as the stuff used in a tf 727 in 1973! Yes...cast iron rings are cast iron rings, but the rest of the "soft goods" reflect current technology..current silicone/teflon composite sealing elements will not "swell" but will melt!
All that shit that is "released" is gonna collect in the valve body and contaminate the governor, most likely sticking/scoring the pistons. If ya didn't have shifting issues before, ya will now. There is one way to clean something, that is disassemble to the base components, and mechanically clean with appropriate processes, then prelube with appropriate materials as it's being reassembled maintaining cleanliness. Just one frog hair present onna spool valve can cause it to stick inna bore and if it's a blind hole ya May have no way of removing it!
The heavy accumulation of "grit" in the pan and on the filter is normal!!!!! The bands and clutches are consumable items! They are not lifetime components. If the tranny is a fresh rebuild, and ya drop the pan say at 1,000 miles, what ya find in the pan looks like a sandbar in tha new river down on the messkikin border! That's normal!
And if ya run one through a water crossing and stop or slow way down, and ya don't have the relocated vent systems onna sii, then it'll look like pink's pan inside of an hour! Just like the axle "vents", hubs, etc. Water and grit is literally sukked into those heated components.
These trannys have no electronics internally (thankgoodness!!!!), but later versions that do, and receive a dose of snakeoil, will have all sorts of issues develop regarding solenoid deterioration, actuator "sticking", composite materials failure, etc. A shop will always know when snakeoil has been poured in and will bend the customer over accordingly!
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Since major screwup and monte started this whole slushbox tranny maintenance deal, let's see what's inside of a unit approximately 3,000 miles after a major overhaul.
This is mobinder's hybrid tranny, a very early 727 (circa 1963) tf 727 converted to Scout II innards and installed behind a chrysler 383 inna Scout traveler. That would be the "holstein" tranny I refer to in the pics. And this is terry's pic so I won't take credit for it, he did the tranny service operation at this point after setting up a really nice cable-controlled kickdown system of his own design!!!
Iirc this was the pan at about 3,000 miles of service after the overhaul. This tranny was meticulously cleaned internally during the repair phase after catastrophic internal failure resulting from a previous rebuild done by a "pro". And the valve body was converted with a tf-2 kit as well as several internal components replaced. Most noticeably a "bolt-in" overrunning clutch assembly. And the torque converter was replaced with a reman unit at the time of installation also, since this is an early 727, the input shaft is different from later versions and torque converter for these can be difficult to come by.
What ya see in this pan (a chrysler/mopar accessory item) is perfectly normal! The larger "flake" of aluminum is most likely sluff from a planetary carrier, a piece of casting flash. This kinda stuff is shed continuously in any autotrans, that's why they have filters that should be serviced! This the stuff in the sump of the pan, and it stays right where ya see it, causing no issues whatsoever!
This is exactly what one would expect to see onna tranny after 5,000 miles of service onna rebuild.
This tranny has a high flow brass filter screen supplied by transgo and is renewable by washing in solvent.
This is mobinder's hybrid tranny, a very early 727 (circa 1963) tf 727 converted to Scout II innards and installed behind a chrysler 383 inna Scout traveler. That would be the "holstein" tranny I refer to in the pics. And this is terry's pic so I won't take credit for it, he did the tranny service operation at this point after setting up a really nice cable-controlled kickdown system of his own design!!!
Iirc this was the pan at about 3,000 miles of service after the overhaul. This tranny was meticulously cleaned internally during the repair phase after catastrophic internal failure resulting from a previous rebuild done by a "pro". And the valve body was converted with a tf-2 kit as well as several internal components replaced. Most noticeably a "bolt-in" overrunning clutch assembly. And the torque converter was replaced with a reman unit at the time of installation also, since this is an early 727, the input shaft is different from later versions and torque converter for these can be difficult to come by.
What ya see in this pan (a chrysler/mopar accessory item) is perfectly normal! The larger "flake" of aluminum is most likely sluff from a planetary carrier, a piece of casting flash. This kinda stuff is shed continuously in any autotrans, that's why they have filters that should be serviced! This the stuff in the sump of the pan, and it stays right where ya see it, causing no issues whatsoever!
This is exactly what one would expect to see onna tranny after 5,000 miles of service onna rebuild.
This tranny has a high flow brass filter screen supplied by transgo and is renewable by washing in solvent.
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Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Craig
Active member
What is the appropriate process / solvent ?
Prelube with appropriate materials, vaseline?
What kind of frogs have you been catching
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
what is the appropriate process / solvent ?
Prelube with appropriate materials, vaseline?
What kind of frogs have you been catching
First off...ya gotta watch out for any frog with any hair...that shit is like a titanium brillo pad and will destroy anythin' it gets near, it can abrade just through mental telepathy.
Horneetoads (texas breed) ain't got no hair so they is safe to have arount.
As an assembly aid when doing either manual gear work (as in stickin' needle/roller bearings and for pre-lube) or slushbox, I use a product that's been around since slushboxes wuz invented, it's known as "transemble" and supplied by ags co. Out of muskegon, mi. I just pick up a tub fairly often at the local auto supply I frequent. It's completely soluable in gear oil, atf, or any other petro-base product ya might find in power transmission stuff. I use if for all kindsa stuff but not for lubricating hydraulic/rubber components in brake work!!! I have another product I use for that. Transemble will not goop up inna valve body if a wad hits a critical area in the hydraulic circuitry.
If I'm simply dropping the pan for tranny service with it installed in the rig, then after it's dripped for awhile, I use a pneumatic siphon gun and blow down the innards with naptha/paint thinner (not turpentine!!!)/varsol/stoddard solvent (all petro-base) and let it drain/evaporate. Yes...makes a dam freakin' mess!
When doing an overhaul...I pull the tranny and power wash the outside using a degreaser concentrate. Then it gets ripped apart.
Depending upon how bad the guts are, sometimes the valve body is simply set aside and submerged inna pan of atf and not touched until re-install.
If the valve body is gonna be gutted out say for a shift kit, then it all goes into an enclosed pan of either lacquer thinner or berryman's chemtool (not the stinkeeazz carb dip!!!!) and is soaked until I'm ready to modify/reassemble. Each piece is then inspected for use and reassembly as needed after drying with air and lubing with either transemble or atf depending upon what I'm doing.
As for sterilizing the case itself, after it's gutted out, it gets completely power washed using the concentrated degreaser. Most likely it will also be badly oxidized/discolored but who cares? I paint all my trannys after a build anyway and don't put any effort into surface prep, these are not trailer queen units and no paint is gonna stick very long under a trail rig!
If I want the case to have a near polished appearance, then I'll take it to one of several local operations that have a large industrial detergent-base parts washer that blasts the case leaving it looking like it's been "endurashined" that will last until air hits it and the oxidation process starts all over! But normally no one I do work for will pay that kinda cash, costs me approximately $45 to have a case done, it's simply not worth it for me, it's how clean it is inside that matters! And I assure ya, mine are sterile inside!
I only have had one use for vaseline in my lifetime, but that is real old technology nowadays and it smells like shit! But with hope and change coming into play now, I think we need to buy mucho stock in the corps that manufacture vaseline, I'll stick with transemble since it tends to repel suits and politicos...especially in illinois.
Major Screwup
Member
Now that's attention to detail!
Do you put yore tools in the autoclave between jobs? That's the only step ya missed!
Do you put yore tools in the autoclave between jobs? That's the only step ya missed!
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
now that's attention to detail!
Do you put yore tools in the autoclave between jobs? That's the only step ya missed!
Naw...monte takes care of makin' sure the tools go into the autoclave onna monthly basis...that way our medical insurance covers that expense with just a co-pay.
But yore one to talk!!! How about tha bawlman sharin' with us hommees how you clean that rocketscience bearing quapo you fab??? How do ya clean them plastic bearings??? Does tha cat lik 'em clean?
Somehow I just don't see ya cleanin' them stellite bearings using comet, mr. Clean, and tideebowl!
Major Screwup
Member
Like all procedures at bt, that's classified info.
they have to be surgically clean when they leave the shop. We use ultrasonic cleaners as well as several homebrew cleaning devices.Then the customer can f*** 'em up anyway they see fit!
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Exactly what I thought t! That's why you do the rocketscience shit and us lowlifes just blow naptha on everythin' and inhale deep!
GK_Slick
Member
Ok two questions here for a quick refresher. Should there be a gasket sealer used when replacing the pan and what surfaces if so? And, what do the pan bolts get torqued to?
I have never used a gasket sealer on a trans pan because I was told the fluid causes enough gasket swelling I didn't need it. And if my memory is right I think the torque was somewhere 11-14 ftlb?
Thanks in advance
I have never used a gasket sealer on a trans pan because I was told the fluid causes enough gasket swelling I didn't need it. And if my memory is right I think the torque was somewhere 11-14 ftlb?
Thanks in advance
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Gk...
First the pan...the sealant I use will vary according to the type of gasket I'm using. As for the "swelling" of any gasket that's urban myth stuff. If a gasket swells it's the wrong material for the application.
I will never use any type of "rtv" product on anything, especially onna tranny pan! If the gasket is plain old cork, then I stick it to a clean pan using either permatex #97, hylomar, or gasgacinch (thinned version of p-tex #97). Once that is set up a bit, then another superthin coat goes on top of the gasket and the pan goes into position.
If it's a cork/rubber composite gasket, then the above applies.
If it's a rubber gasket, then the above applies except...do not use the hylomar, it kinda "lubricates a rubber gasket and it will squish out of position when the bolts are snugged.
If it's a vegetable fiber gasket (looks kinda like thin corrugated cardboard). Those are coated with a pressure/heat sensitive coating that will "cure" once the pan is tightened in place, I use nothing on those and ya must be certain the pan rail and pan flange are clean and dry.
If it's one of the molded/reusable gaskets such as supplied under the mopar source, then those go on dry also.
Pan bolt torque...all of the t-407/tf 727 pan bolt torque callouts I've seen in the IH service references are wrong as they show a foot/pound designation! That is a misprint carried over since 1972!
I do not use a torque wrench on these fasteners. I do use a 1/4" drive ratchet, 4" in length whether on the bench or under the vehicle. I "snug" all the bolts inna cris-cross pattern. Then go back and get about as tight as I can with one hand/wrist...I'm not limp-wristed, but I do have some limited mobility in my primary "torque" wrist nowadays so that serves me well! Just get 'em all to the point where ya can't feel any additional gasket compression. Once the tranny has temp-cycled a few times, then I go back and re-check/snug and call it good.
Don't know that I have ever done any tf 727 that did not have at least one pan bolt missing or stripped from a previous service attempt! That is why the 5/16"x18tpi helicoil set is in my "tranny tool" box!
The chrysler-recommended toque spec for those pan bolts is 150in./lbs. In many tests, I've found my method results inna nominal 90>100in./lbs.
Imho, much of the "pan leakage" is caused by atf migration through the pan bolt threads, not the gasket itself if a sealant is used, the same condition as exists regarding I-4 and sv engine valve cover retainers/fasteners. I have a possible "fix" for that I'm playing with right now but I'm not ready to sign off on it yet! Stand by, we'll announce when it's viable (if it's viable!!). If this works out, ya could always perform the mod after the fact without dropping the pan again.
First the pan...the sealant I use will vary according to the type of gasket I'm using. As for the "swelling" of any gasket that's urban myth stuff. If a gasket swells it's the wrong material for the application.
I will never use any type of "rtv" product on anything, especially onna tranny pan! If the gasket is plain old cork, then I stick it to a clean pan using either permatex #97, hylomar, or gasgacinch (thinned version of p-tex #97). Once that is set up a bit, then another superthin coat goes on top of the gasket and the pan goes into position.
If it's a cork/rubber composite gasket, then the above applies.
If it's a rubber gasket, then the above applies except...do not use the hylomar, it kinda "lubricates a rubber gasket and it will squish out of position when the bolts are snugged.
If it's a vegetable fiber gasket (looks kinda like thin corrugated cardboard). Those are coated with a pressure/heat sensitive coating that will "cure" once the pan is tightened in place, I use nothing on those and ya must be certain the pan rail and pan flange are clean and dry.
If it's one of the molded/reusable gaskets such as supplied under the mopar source, then those go on dry also.
Pan bolt torque...all of the t-407/tf 727 pan bolt torque callouts I've seen in the IH service references are wrong as they show a foot/pound designation! That is a misprint carried over since 1972!
I do not use a torque wrench on these fasteners. I do use a 1/4" drive ratchet, 4" in length whether on the bench or under the vehicle. I "snug" all the bolts inna cris-cross pattern. Then go back and get about as tight as I can with one hand/wrist...I'm not limp-wristed, but I do have some limited mobility in my primary "torque" wrist nowadays so that serves me well! Just get 'em all to the point where ya can't feel any additional gasket compression. Once the tranny has temp-cycled a few times, then I go back and re-check/snug and call it good.
Don't know that I have ever done any tf 727 that did not have at least one pan bolt missing or stripped from a previous service attempt! That is why the 5/16"x18tpi helicoil set is in my "tranny tool" box!
The chrysler-recommended toque spec for those pan bolts is 150in./lbs. In many tests, I've found my method results inna nominal 90>100in./lbs.
Imho, much of the "pan leakage" is caused by atf migration through the pan bolt threads, not the gasket itself if a sealant is used, the same condition as exists regarding I-4 and sv engine valve cover retainers/fasteners. I have a possible "fix" for that I'm playing with right now but I'm not ready to sign off on it yet! Stand by, we'll announce when it's viable (if it's viable!!). If this works out, ya could always perform the mod after the fact without dropping the pan again.
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Pardon my math -- doesn't 150 in lbs = 12 ft lbs (approx)?
you could use a 3/8" drive torque wrench -- if you are real careful and have a "light touch" -- torque to 9 ft lbs; then to 11 ft lbs...
But,
michael's 1/4" drive technique works real well on at pan bolts -- including the "re-torquing" after a few "heat cycles".
I have used the same 1/4" drive technique a number of times over the years...
you could use a 3/8" drive torque wrench -- if you are real careful and have a "light touch" -- torque to 9 ft lbs; then to 11 ft lbs...
But,
michael's 1/4" drive technique works real well on at pan bolts -- including the "re-torquing" after a few "heat cycles".
I have used the same 1/4" drive technique a number of times over the years...
ronmc1954
Member
Robert, your real close on the math:
to convert foot pounds to inch pounds, multiply by 12.
To convert inch pounds to foot pounds, divide by 12.
online conversion - torque conversion
Nice automatic conversion table
ron
to convert foot pounds to inch pounds, multiply by 12.
To convert inch pounds to foot pounds, divide by 12.
online conversion - torque conversion
Nice automatic conversion table
ron
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
I've received several calls and emails regarding the "type" of kickdown control I previously mentioned...the "full throttle kickdown" system vs. The "part throttle kickdown" system.
More than a few folks think their tranny is "broke" because the kickdown system doesn't work as they think it's supposed to. Again...because ihc did not fully explain the differences in various t-407 transmission designs in appropriate service manual sections over the years, there is really no way to understand "what" is supposed to happen and how to service it just by depending upon those references. The cts 2313 ('78 and later sii) manual is the worst offender, while it does contain two complete service segments regarding the tranny variations, they did not point out the differences and in fact actually mixed up and transposed the illustrations so that no sense can be made of the valve body variations!! And the parts lists for the variations likewise do not contain definitive illustrations...just "frame number cuts" that mean nothing to a hobbyist/non-pro mechanic.
The most common kickdown system found in IH apps is the "full throttle" control. What that really means is that if the system linkage is correctly adjusted along with the throttle cable/rod, the loud pedal must be depressed near wot in order to "command" the tranny to shift back to second gear from direct/high gear at road speeds under say 60mph. And that is all dependent upon having the oem gearing and tire size!
That full throttle kickdown will occur at varying points, I'm just throwing out a "general" scenario, every vehicle is gonna behave a bit differently. And this information is only pertinent to a tf 727 (or a tf 904), it has nothing to due with a 700r4, a th350, a c6, a bw 11, etc. These trannys each have their own variation of how kickdown is controlled, ya can make no comparisons amongst all these boxes! And after 1973 or so production...the "emissions thang" reared it's head and many of the kickdown scenarios changed for all oem manufacturers.
The "part throttle kickdown" module was added to the 727 valve body by chrysler beginning sometime in 1974. But not all oem customers received that setup, not all trannys received that setup, and it May have been somewhat randomly applied over the years.
What this means is that kickdown will occur at a lower road speed/engine load/throttle plate angle without having to floor the loud pedal. That serves to keep the tranny ratios more closely matched to engine load (primarily an emissions deal) and also reduced "hunting" of the up/down shift points under light throttle application. This would have been particularly noticeable onna Scout II due to it's extremely "heavy" stance vs. Engine output, one more reason why performance of those rigs is considered kinda sluggish when compared to similar vehicles with a much lower curb weight.
The only way to determine which valve body your tranny May contain...is to drop the pan and look!
If...you have adjusted the kickdown linkage correctly (and that will vary somewhat by platform and model year), and it still will only kickdown say at 48mph when ya floor the pedal, then ya gotta "full throttle kickdown" system. By far the most common found in IH stuff.
The valve body I posted in a previous post shows a full throttle kickdown system, with no "add-on" module mounted.
I don't currently have a part throttle kickdown valve body to take some pics of for illustrations. But here's some line art from carl munroe's definitive reference which shows the "part throttle kickdown" module added to the valve body as part of the governor control. That's the stuff in the bold outlined box to the right of the drawing.
More than a few folks think their tranny is "broke" because the kickdown system doesn't work as they think it's supposed to. Again...because ihc did not fully explain the differences in various t-407 transmission designs in appropriate service manual sections over the years, there is really no way to understand "what" is supposed to happen and how to service it just by depending upon those references. The cts 2313 ('78 and later sii) manual is the worst offender, while it does contain two complete service segments regarding the tranny variations, they did not point out the differences and in fact actually mixed up and transposed the illustrations so that no sense can be made of the valve body variations!! And the parts lists for the variations likewise do not contain definitive illustrations...just "frame number cuts" that mean nothing to a hobbyist/non-pro mechanic.
The most common kickdown system found in IH apps is the "full throttle" control. What that really means is that if the system linkage is correctly adjusted along with the throttle cable/rod, the loud pedal must be depressed near wot in order to "command" the tranny to shift back to second gear from direct/high gear at road speeds under say 60mph. And that is all dependent upon having the oem gearing and tire size!
That full throttle kickdown will occur at varying points, I'm just throwing out a "general" scenario, every vehicle is gonna behave a bit differently. And this information is only pertinent to a tf 727 (or a tf 904), it has nothing to due with a 700r4, a th350, a c6, a bw 11, etc. These trannys each have their own variation of how kickdown is controlled, ya can make no comparisons amongst all these boxes! And after 1973 or so production...the "emissions thang" reared it's head and many of the kickdown scenarios changed for all oem manufacturers.
The "part throttle kickdown" module was added to the 727 valve body by chrysler beginning sometime in 1974. But not all oem customers received that setup, not all trannys received that setup, and it May have been somewhat randomly applied over the years.
What this means is that kickdown will occur at a lower road speed/engine load/throttle plate angle without having to floor the loud pedal. That serves to keep the tranny ratios more closely matched to engine load (primarily an emissions deal) and also reduced "hunting" of the up/down shift points under light throttle application. This would have been particularly noticeable onna Scout II due to it's extremely "heavy" stance vs. Engine output, one more reason why performance of those rigs is considered kinda sluggish when compared to similar vehicles with a much lower curb weight.
The only way to determine which valve body your tranny May contain...is to drop the pan and look!
If...you have adjusted the kickdown linkage correctly (and that will vary somewhat by platform and model year), and it still will only kickdown say at 48mph when ya floor the pedal, then ya gotta "full throttle kickdown" system. By far the most common found in IH stuff.
The valve body I posted in a previous post shows a full throttle kickdown system, with no "add-on" module mounted.
I don't currently have a part throttle kickdown valve body to take some pics of for illustrations. But here's some line art from carl munroe's definitive reference which shows the "part throttle kickdown" module added to the valve body as part of the governor control. That's the stuff in the bold outlined box to the right of the drawing.
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ronmc1954
Member
Well michael; I have to bough to you again! I re- adjusted my kickdown band and linkage, and it worked!! Going 40mph I can step on it and it will kickdown into 2nd and floored it shifts into 3rd about 60mph. 60 might be a touch high I don't know what rpms are but it sounds like it might need to shift at about 57mph. A minor adjustment on linkage will fix that.
Thanks, excellent post!
Ron
Thanks, excellent post!
Ron
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Great ron! You just performed a typical $800>$1000 major overhaul if you had trolled aamco on this little issue!
Ain't maintenance a wonderful thang???
Your full throttle upshift to third point is just fine! I'm running my trailerdragger tranny set up to shift to third at 64mph displayed on the gps, not the speedometer. This is not a superaccurate/supercritical point, each tranny/vehicle will vary a bit. That is why you see the "tolerance" for shift points in any technical reference.
Even better..it don't take a scan tool, a computer, and electricity to do this, it's all mechanical majik using the principle of the screw thread!
Ain't maintenance a wonderful thang???
Your full throttle upshift to third point is just fine! I'm running my trailerdragger tranny set up to shift to third at 64mph displayed on the gps, not the speedometer. This is not a superaccurate/supercritical point, each tranny/vehicle will vary a bit. That is why you see the "tolerance" for shift points in any technical reference.
Even better..it don't take a scan tool, a computer, and electricity to do this, it's all mechanical majik using the principle of the screw thread!