Power Problems

Wow! So thats it for now?
I can't run it on the road, it's not even close to being ready for an inspection, but at least I can use it to plow when the snow starts falling. I started it up and ran it for about 1/2 hour. The fast idle cam is still to tight,, its not letting the it move when the choke opens, I will continue to play with that for a while.
When I kick it down it does run nice and smooth.
Honestly this rig has never, since I have had it, run this good...

I greatly appreciate all the help working out this issue.
Next. Where do I go to get help figuring out what to do with all the vaccume ports?????
 
Weeeell, I'm not ready to declare that your electrical boo-boos are all healed just yet, but you can take a very cautious "run 'er, but watch 'er" approach. Keep an extinguisher handy. If you notice any weird behavior similar to before, shut 'er down quick as you can. I'm glad you're beginning to see some positive results from all this monkey business. Two steps forward, one step back. If I can get some time soon, I'm going to take some voltage readings on my 13 letter shit-spreaders for comparison against yours. Both of my electrical/charging systems are pretty sound (knock on wood).
Sounds like you're fairly happy with your engine idle once you get the fast part kicked down, but if you feel like trying some fine tuning, here you go:
get the engine warmed up and shut it down. Take your standard screw driver and gently turn each idle mix screw in clockwise until you just feel it bottom out...then stop. Count how many turns it took to hit bottom and make note. Back each screw out an identical 2.5 turns. Connect your vacuum gauge and start the engine. If you are anywhere close to sea level and the engine is reasonably healthy, you should see nearly 20hg steady on the gauge. You have 17 now, which isn't horrid, but it can be better. Monitor the gauge and first turn in one, then the other screw one quarter turn at a time. The idea is to get the reading as high and steady as possible with a smooth and purdy idle quality. If you go to far, (lean) the engine will let you know, by stumbling and fumbling. You also want the screws to be within a quarter turn of each other (identical is even better) when you finish.
 
Just so I understand correctly. I turn one screw 1/4 turn, and then the other 1/4 turn. Until the rig pushes out 20hg or close to.
Also, do all the vacumme ports on the air cleaner need to go anywhere?

Thanks again for all the knowledge.
Things are slowly comming back and making sence.
 
Yes, after you have them both out the identical 2.5 turns as a starting point. I suggested you count how many turns it takes to bottom them only to satisfy my morbid curiosity as to where they are set right now.
Vacuum ports on the air filter...are you saying you have an oe style filter canister that fits this carb? Even if you do, it is not necessary for you to have any lines connected to the canister body ports. Just leave them vacant. As long as you have a small line from the highest port on the carb to your distributor vacuum advance, a larger line in the rear feeding your vacuum assist brake booster, and a larger rear line feeding your pcv valve, you're set. Just make sure the lines aren't cracked or split anywhere and the fitting ends are snug.
 
Actually, yes I do have the air canister, but it is not connect because the lines are shot. Thats why I removed it from the ec. I don't need to put it back in right?
 
I think we must be talking about two different things. What I assumed you were asking about is the air filter housing that sits atop the carb. What have you got there? An aftermarket open element (aka rock strainer), or a mostly enclosed tin can with a small snorkel opening? Is this what you were wanting to know about or something else? Pics to clarify perhaps?
 
Yes we kind of are. I was first referring to the air filter housing that sits on top of the carb. Yes it is the original and yes it does fit on top of the carb perfectly. It just seams like there are alot of places for vaccume lines and nothing running to them.
You mentioned the canister which I thought was the plastic filter that looks like a coffee can mounted to the fender wall, which I removed because the lines were either broke or missing.
So, there is one vacumme line comming from the front of the carb on the very bottom that I have plugged. If that is good, then I understand what needs to be connected as far as vaccume lines to this point. As far as all other vaccume ports comming from the engine, I will be buying some caps to plug them all. I suspect at least one of them will have some kind of leak.
 
Okay, the coffee can looking item is a charcoal canister. Since it has already been removed, go ahead and leave it that way. Plenty of folks have done the same. It was part of your emissions system. It has no effect on engine performance.
As for the vacuum fittings on your filter can, you May decide you want to try completing that plumbing. It is meant to aid cold start warm ups. Then again, once you get your choke dialed in, you May decide it isn't worth the trouble. You don't need to worry about it right now.
 
I tinkered around with adjusting the carb for a while this morning. One side was 3-1/4 turns out, the other 3 turns.
I took them in and back out the 2-1/2. The more I turned them in the worse the vaccume got, and it was running rougher.
I took the screws out 1/4 at a time until it started running smooth.ended up being 3-1/4 turns each and a max stable vaccume of 18. I don't know if that is good, or what else I can do to get it higher. I do hear just a slight click fron the passenger side but can't tell where its comming from. I hope its not a lifter, if it is would that affect the vaccume pressure and performance?
Still working on fine tuning the choke, but I think I'm getting real close.
 
We normally expect to see the screws end up between one and two turns out, so three plus turns out seems a bit abnormal. 18hg steady isn't bad, so that's a positive. If you had a manifold vacuum leak, your reading wouldn't get that high. The guesstimated idle speed is a potential influencing factor. It would be nice to know what your dwell angle is, but that requires a handheld dwell/tach meter connected, which would also show us the idle speed. I have one, but I can't toss it that far.:frown5:
did this carb come with a spec sheet indicating what size the jets are? If not, how do you feel about removing the fuel bowl for a looksee at the size number stamped on the jets? I'm wondering if they might be on the small side, thus requiring the mix screws to be further out as compensation.
The noise you heard could be an exhaust leak or a lifter tick. Minor valve train noise is usually no cause for concern. The exact source of the noise is often difficult to pinpoint. Persistent, loud clatter that is most prevalent during high rpm intervals, then gradually subsides as engine speed is reduced could be a sign of trouble. What weight of oil are you running? In fairly chilly climes, 15w40 is a good choice. 20w50 works well in moderate climes. 10w30 is a bit on the thin side unless you're in the antarctic. What brand of oil filter? If its a fram, chuck that sucka. Are you running 1 quart over the full Mark on the stick (roughly 7 quarts total at lof time)? This is a recommended practice for sii's with the oddball double sump oil pan.
 
Full synthetic, yea I know laugh..... 5w30.
It's what both my other newer cars take, so it's what I used.
Probably not what it should have, but I don't know a darn thing about oil. I don't remember but I think the filter is puralator??
I willl have to check on that one. I put 6-1/2 quarts in it when I change the oil, so should be good there.
 
Purolator filters are alright. 5w30 works in modern engines with their tighter tolerances, but I can't recommend it for your 304. Too damn thin. Go with the 15w40 before putting this rig into regular use. You might just notice your little tick noise disappears afterwards.
As for removing your fuel bowl, its a pretty simple process. The fuel line must be disconnected. Then you have the four pan head screws that retain the bowl to the metering block and carb body. This will spill a half-cup of raw fuel, so be prepared! Depending on the composition and quality of bowl gasket the re-manners used, it will either be destroyed in this process or be perfectly reusable. The blue, neoprene coated gaskets from Holley are meant to survive numerous fuel bowl r & r's. Other types, maybe not so much. Removing the bowl exposes the metering block. There are two small brass jets threaded into the block, one on each side. They are slotted for removal with a special tool, or a flat blade screwdriver that fits well in the slot. Hopefully, you will be able to see the two digit number without having to unscrew a jet from the block.
 
I will get the oil changed before I do to much running. Do you recommend any additives like mystery oil etc..?

I pulled the carb and looked at the jets in the comfort of my basement becasue I was "lucky" enough to have the crappy black sticky felt gasket that looks like a puff pastrie when you pull it apart. The carb has 51 jets..... From what I have read, I am thinking that I should have 56 or 57 for my altitude. I run anywhere from sea level to about 2500feet.

Is it likely to get a new gasket locally, or is it an item that I will have have to special order.

I do have some high density cork gasket material??? Please don't slap me, just looking for a temporary fix until I can get the real deal, weather man is calling for a chance of snow, and with the way they predict onw never knows what we will get.
 
The only additive you need to worry about for these older engines is a little thingy called zddp, which is short for a bunch of long words that you don't need to worry about. There's been quite a bit of discussion on the subject over the past six years or so. In a nutshell, commercially available oil used to contain sufficient quantities of the stuff, but pressure from greenies and lobbyists among others has forced the oil companies to gradually remove it from the oil you can buy off the shelf. Their claim is that it leads to accelerated catalytic converter failure...bla bla bullshit. Just another effort towards forcing older vehicles off the road as I and many others see it. This compound forms a very critical sacrificial layer of protection on parts that are subject to high friction, such as bearings. Swepco oil available from IHPA is an independent producer that is not subject to the same rules and restrictions as the big oil companies. Their oil is a superior product with all the zddp our old engines could possibly need. Considering your location, I'll back channel you some alternatives that while perhaps not as top shelf, will get the job done and be a bit more practical in your situation. Now back to the carb...

F'n cheap bastards! If they used those crap gaskets, that means they scrimped elsewhere as well. I'm betting they didn't use any genuine Holley service parts in that thing. Damn them!
I was secretly predicting the jets would be 51's. Since you play below 3k feet and you're burning cornskweezin alkyhawl shit for gas, you should at least change to 53's and maybe even 55's. I wouldn't recommend going larger than that until you can do some road tests at cruising speed. Do you have any decent parts stores nearby? Any parts house worth their weight in shit should have these items available. The same place you are able to find the jets sold in pairs is where you will find the blue neoprene impregnated bowl gaskets in a Holley package. Accept no substitutes. I'm skeptical that your homemade gasket would form a leak free seal. You don't want a raw fuel leak anywhere near the hot engine.
 
Understood.
The carb parts have to be ordered. Apparently few people in the area work on carbs anymore. The guy knew exactly what I needed and knew half the part number. Parts will be in on Friday, so I'm stuck for a couple days.
I kinda figured the homemade gasket wouldn't work, thats why I asked before I put any effort into trying to make one.
Thanks again for all the help.
 
Yes. It is a vanishing art. Glad you at least found what sounds like a competent parts person. When you get the new stuff and get it installed, you'll need to adjust the idle mix settings. Try turning each screw in one full turn from where they are now and see how she runs and vacuums. You're welcome.
 
Frustrated again,
put the 55 jets in. Now I am only pulling 15hg's.
1-1/2 turns out each side.
If a get a straight tac, will I beable to get the numbers we need to figure out the vaccume?
 
Its alright. This is a war of attrition. The positive to take from this so far is that the jet change had a noticeable effect on mixture screw position in the direction we want them to go. The engine wouldn't even run before at 1.5 turns out. As I've indicated from the beginning, it is next to impossible to dial these settings in while still guessing at engine speed. I'm not going to make any promises about what having a tach connected will do other than tell us exactly how fast the engine is turning, which can have a major impact on the adjustments you're making. It ads to our knowledge base. Knowledge is power. You think the speed is around 700, but what if its actually 900 or higher? That small amount could throw things off. There could be some other factor influencing the vacuum reading that we have not addressed yet. Maybe it is excessive engine speed. Maybe there is a minor vacuum leak after all. What we're doing is experimentation through trial and error. Sometimes a change makes things better, other times it uncovers another issue that was previously masked from view.
So was your starting point with the screws the approximate 2.25 turns out I suggested? Where was the vacuum reading at that point? Did turning the screws back out from there have any effect on the vacuum or did you not try that direction?
 
I get it. It's still frustrating, but I'm not giving up.
Ok, I started 2-1/2 turns out with the vaccume gage hooked up, started out at 15hg, and there was no noticeable chage, needle had just a slight bounce until I hit about 2-1/2 to 2-1/4 turns, anything below that and the hg dropped. So after about half hour of playing with the screws sometimes as little as 1/8 turn, I shut the rig down and counted the turns. They lay a approximatley 2-1/2.

Sooooo. I have two options at this point as I see it. Please let me know if I am out of line.
1. Buy/borrow a dwell meter and dial in the dizzy, set the timing, then fine tune the idle screws, or
2. Upgrade to an electronic ignition, wich will allow me to skip the whole dwell thing, and I won't have to worry about messing with points, less maintenance. Then set time and fine tune screws.

I know the ei will set me back $100 or so, but it might just be better for the long haul.
Please let me know what you recomend.
Thanks.
Wade
 
I'm a little confused now. In the previous post you said 1.5 turns out. Anyway, electronic ignition is nice for the reasons you mentioned. However, this May not be the best time to throw another variable into the mix. Points are simple, cheap and pretty reliable once they've been set. They do require a little maintenance, but not all that often. Your engine can and will run well enough to plow snow on points. You're not that far off right now. Ei can always come later, but its up to you.

So how is the engine running since these latest changes? Better, worse, same? If it seems to idle well enough where things are, see if you can reduce the idle speed some. Not to the point of being rough or stalling, but just see what it will tolerate. Engine speed too fast is the real impediment to setting the mixture screws accurately. Since you have to guess on engine speed, it would be better to err on the slow side, as long as the engine will cooperate. When things are as they should be, turning the idle mix screws in (lean) will increase engine speed slightly as you approach the sweet spot. And please do observe your vac gauge as you go.
 
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