• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

My 67 800

DC67 800

Member
I know a lot of guys are setting up hydra boost (spelling) for power break systems. I debated between that and a power booster setup and decided on power breaks. Even though hydra boost does not look that complicated it was just one more unknown for me that I didn't want to deal with, so ended up going with a power brake booster.

Sorry for the sideways pictures.
The biggest hurdle with power breaks for an early Scout is clearing the fender well, so what I did was to move the master cylinder support box that is bolted to the fire wall up one bolt hole. This allowed the master cylinder to clear the fender well and aligned the break piston rod that attaches to the pedal almost perfectly. The booster is an aftermarket unit for a GM setup.
20150124_101515.jpg


20150124_101530.jpg



The break pedal is the factory unit. I bought a cheapo aluminum pedal pad off of ebay, removed the attachment protrusion from the back side. Then removed the rubber pads and drilled and countersunk four holes through it and the factory steel pedal, then bolted the aluminum pad to the factory pedal and glued the rubber pedal pads back in. Now I have a nice looking break pedal and a gas pedal(also off of ebay) to match. They look pretty good and together cost less than the name brand pedal pad alone.
20150124_101222.jpg



I did have to drill a new hole in the factory pedal assembly as the alignment was off just a bit, but it worked really nicely.
20150124_101209.jpg
 

kvp

New member
Nice build. I have two questions. First do you have a part number or know where or what the wiper motors are from? And two the same goes for the back seat? I really like how the 350 fits in there. Most people are notching the body tube and what not yours looks like about what the stock 304 looks like in the engine bay.
 

DC67 800

Member
nice build. I have two questions. First do you have a part number or know where or what the wiper motors are from? And two the same goes for the back seat? I really like how the 350 fits in there. Most people are notching the body tube and what not yours looks like about what the stock 304 looks like in the engine bay.

Here is a link to the wiper motors:
model # tmc-00902-12v heavy duty marine wiper motor with 2" shaft
You have to call them to order because you will need a reverse park motor for the passenger side. When you call, tim at tmc will know exactly what you are doing. He keeps the reverse park motors in stock because Scout guys use them, they are not on the web site because he doesn't want to confuse his boat customers.

Link to the wiper switch that you will need:
am equipment : twist knob switch for two coast to park motors w/ wash [311-1017] - $17.89.


The rear seat is a bestop brand for a Jeep.
I got mine off of amazon only because I had a gift certificate, so it cost me like $75 and the colors worked perfectly for my project. I have not installed it yet, but I will just keep it simple and fabricate some brackets to bolt it to the floor.
Here is the model:
bestop 39441-15 trailmax II fold and tumble black denim vinyl with fabric insert rear bench seat for 55-95 cj5, cj7 and wrangler yj


as far as the 350 goes, I just mocked it up with the transmission, transfer case and adapter. I knew I didn't want to cut the firewall and my goal was to keep all the running gear above the frame rails.
The exhaust port on the drivers side was where I started for the location front to back. That port was placed just far enough in front of the firewall protrusion to fit a header. That left me about 3-1/2" to 4" from the snout of the water pump to the radiator(which is not stock but in the same location). From there I just checked driveline length front and rear and made sure I could get the geometry to work for the u-joints.
I will show more detail on most of this soon.

As far as engine height goes the the water pump is almost centered on the radiator, that worked out to keep the transfer case above the bottom of the frame rails and work with the motor mounts (which are also for a Jeep). I could have clocked the transfer case and dropped the motor lower, but I wanted the option to run a mechanical fan if necessary.

Let me know if you need any more info or better pictures. I will post more soon.

Damian
 

kvp

New member
Cool thank you. Looks like their are at least two scouts out there with more then one piece of Jeep stuff lol. Keep up the awesome build and if time allows keep us in the know. ;)
 

DC67 800

Member
I think this question will be ok with the mods.

Have any of you used d&c extreme's cage kit for our 80/800's?
Have you dealt with the new owner?

The roll cage is a project I don't want to tackle from scratch as I don't have access to a bender and don't want to buy one.
I don't mind putting together a kit.

Thanks
damian
 

DC67 800

Member
cool thank you. Looks like their are at least two scouts out there with more then one piece of Jeep stuff lol. Keep up the awesome build and if time allows keep us in the know. ;)

I was going to comment on the use of Jeep parts, but I had just read another post that Chad shot down about making fun of jeeps (not that I was going to do that).

Funny how well so many of their parts fit the early scouts. Glad they do though as it makes for some easy and inexpensive fabrication.
 

DC67 800

Member
So I got the radiator and electric fan mounted today.
The radiator is just a basic universal unit for a Chevy, and the fan is a derale fan that is sized to fit the radiator core.



I had a couple pieces of angle welded to the radiator which allowed for using the factory bolt locations, keeping the radiator where it came from the factory.
20150131_114436.jpg



The fan came with the standard through the radiator nylon mounting hardware, which I really didn't want to use. Fortunately it also came with some really nice adjustable brackets. They just weren't quite long enough to fit my radiator.
20150131_115951.jpg



Even though I was not able to use the extension brackets, I was able to use the l brackets that are meant for bolting to the radiator core support, they fit perfectly top and bottom. But my radiator core support did not have enough on the return lip to use a bolt as you can see in the picture. So I drilled a hole through the bottom/ top of the four support brackets.
20150131_140936.jpg



Then I made four 3/16" spacers and drilled and tapped them to match the holes in the brackets. These fit against the lip of the support to lock the fan in place.
20150131_140857.jpg



Here you can see the spacers holding the fan in place.
20150131_142324.jpg



Fan mounted with all four brackets and spacers.
20150131_142317.jpg



Installed. The derale fan was an upgrade from what I was looking at, but it was worth it for the cooling ability, installation hardware, and the thickness ( about 2-5/8"). Made for an easy install.
20150131_143016.jpg
 
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DC67 800

Member
Here are some pics of my gas tank fab. I ditched the two side tanks in favor of a single rear tank.

The tank is a 15 gallon unit for a Jeep. I think it's for a 78-86 cj/wrangler I believe. I saw a similar tank used by IHPA on one of their builds, but they used a newer model with the filler on the drivers side. My tank has the filler on the passenger side. For some reason the sending unit on the newer tank was about 4x the cost as the older unit that I used, so I just went with the older model. Don't really remember what the differences were.


Welded a piece of angle to the frame side rails at the tank corners.
IMG_20140301_101658_850.jpg


I used a pieces of square tube steel on the sides of the tank for support. The lip of the tank rests on the tubing, there will be a rubber spacer between the two for vibration.
IMG_20140301_101612_483.jpg


Here you can see the lip of the tank supported by the tubing and hanging from the angle.
IMG_20140301_101631_263.jpg


Here it is completed. The tank is easily removable should any maintenance become necessary.
IMG_20140302_091326_808.jpg


Capped the tubing ends to keep debris out.
IMG_20140302_091340_150.jpg
 

Attachments

DC67 800

Member
Got the shifter fitted and installed. I didn't like the way the shifter tilted back because of the shape of the tunnel cover. The B&M shifter also has the shifter cable coming out the back at an angle and this forced the whole unit to tilt back at a steep angle. Combine these two factors and I wasn't happy with the whole setup. After messing around with it and trimming the skirt wrong I had to come up with something that would work without buying a new skirt. I decided to recess the shifter into the tunnel. As the unit is meant to be in the cab and not below I had to built a recessed box that could support the shifter and keep it out of the elements. This recess allowed the shifter to sit level and got rid of most of the huge plastic skirt. I don't have any pictures of the recessed box that is welded to the tunnel cover, but if anyone is interested I can take a couple and get them posted.



Since the tunnel is removable the shifter cable just has to be disconnected at the tranny and the tunnel and shifter come out as a single unit.
20150206_160930.jpg


Didn't really like the t handle that came with the shifter. Found a cheap black shift knob for it that matches the shift knobs for the t-case.
20150206_160951.jpg
 

punjig

Member
I like what you have done so far with this build. It's things like the shifter and the tank, etc, etc. That is what I love.:icon_heart: everything is custom but it all looks like it could have been done at the factory!:icon_up:

keep us updated on this baby! I cant wait to see the final product when she is done!
 

DC67 800

Member
I like what you have done so far with this build. It's things like the shifter and the tank, etc, etc. That is what I love.:icon_heart: everything is custom but it all looks like it could have been done at the factory!:icon_up:

keep us updated on this baby! I cant wait to see the final product when she is done!

Thanks,

it's the appreciation for a build from others and watching builds like yours that help keep me motivated to finish.
 

DC67 800

Member
Once my heater was installed I had to get the 5/8" hoses through the firewall to the the engine bay. I was having trouble finding a grommet that would fit the hose to make a good seal. So I came up with another solution that seemed very simple and would seal the holes without a grommet.


Her is where the hoses had to pass through.
20150215_140122.jpg


I made an aluminum plate out of 1/4" plate stock and drilled the correct size holes for the hoses to pass through and bolted the plate to the firewall. The edges of the holes were eased and the holes were sanded smooth.
20150215_140113.jpg


The hoses were attached to the heater core then passed through the holes and the core installed. There is just enough room to remove the hoses from the core should they need to be replaced.
20150215_140547.jpg

20150215_140557.jpg

Anyone know of a good inline shut off valve to keep water from circulating through the heater core in the summer time?
 

DC67 800

Member
So I picked this bumper up for the project. You can guess what it came off of.

I want your opinions. Should I extend it out on each side to reach the fender line or run it as is? I have an idea to lengthen it that will look good. It doesn't look bad as it is.

Let me know.

20150307_140714.jpg
 

fordboy

Member
Think it would look better if the bumper and bar got extended to wrap around the front marker light. Looks good just don't like how it covers the marker light.
 

punjig

Member
I agree 100% with fordboy. If the marker lights were not covered the bumper would look sweet. There is nothing actually wrong with the overall width of the bumper if it were not for the marker lights being covered. And in my opinion, the marker lights on our scouts (I & II's) are a distinct part of these IH trucks.

It might be easy to widen the bumper, but it looks like it might be a little difficult to widen the bars. Maybe cut the bumper and bars in half and add some length in the middle. Grind the welds on the added piece to the bar, skim coat it, and repaint?

Overall, I love this bumper!
 
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DC67 800

Member
Thanks guys,
the bars covering the marker/turn signal lights is the thing that bothers me also. I think I will just totally remove and replace those bars past the marker lights. I have already picked up some 4x6 steel tube to insert on the outer side of the d ring attachments following the bumper lines similar to the attached picture. I think it will be easier to do it this way rather than trying to just extend the bumper the needed 3"-4" on either side.

front bumper.jpg
 

fordboy

Member
I like the idea of widening in the center. Would make the stinger match the grill better. Eather way will look good.
 

DC67 800

Member
Nothing to update. With spring here I have been busy with projects around the house and little league.

Did pick up the break lines from IHPA and some other misc. Things for wiring. Will try to get back to the Scout when baseball ends.

I did help a friend pick up this Scout that he won at an online auction. It has a Chevy 350, 4 speed, and Jeep Dana 300. With it being an 80 the motor was just stuffed back close to the firewall and they notched to sheet metal on the drivers side to clear the exhaust manifold, there was no thought to move the radiator and bring the motor farther forward a few inches which would have been a better choice. Overall the body is rough and the work that was done on it is not bad but it could have been better with a little more planning.

He's got it started and the motor runs good. Needs new brake and clutch master cylinders and some wiring work but it will be drive-able soon.

20150409_155435.jpg
 
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