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My 67 800

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Went to the local car show this morning, after getting home decided to do something while watching football and start my build thread.

So, after two years of owning the Scout here goes. Bought my 67 800 on labor day weekend in 2012 and after sitting on it for a year and collecting parts I got started on the build about a year ago. I have been taking pictures along the way and will continue to update as the build progresses.

Here is the Scout as it was purchased. Had a 304, t-18, Dana 20, Dana 30, Dana 44 tapered axle, bench seat and no rear seat.

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So the plan for the build was a Chevy 350, 4l60e automatic tranny, Jeep Dana 300, Chevy Dana 44 up front for the flat top knuckles (narrowed for Scout II axles, cut and turn), and Scout II Dana 44 in the rear.

On jack stands in the garage, all running gear stripped except for the axles.

Engine, tranny and transfer case fitting.





Tucked nicely above the bottom of the frame rails


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The suspension is spring over w/ Scout II leaf springs, IHPA reverse shackle.

I won't go into the cut and turn as that info has been covered in great detail by others.

Question for all you suspension gurus. Note the length of the cast in spring perch on the GM Dana 44 as compared to the length of the spring perch from IHPA used on the drivers side. Will this difference in length cause the springs to be loaded at different rates? Should the drivers side perch be cut shorter to mach the length of the cast in perch?

Once the suspension was at the stage in the pictures the engine, tranny & t case were installed and the suspension loaded with entire vehicle weight to make sure everything was correctly place.





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After finishing up with the suspension (finished pictures to come) I moved on to rust repair. Unfortunately the kick panels were rusted out at the door hinge mounts and the inner rocker panels also needed replacing. The rocker panels could have probably been reused but having the body taken down this far I just decided to replace them also. Overall the Scout body was pretty rust free thankfully as just replacing the kick panels and inner and outer rockers really burned me out.

You can see how far gone they were.

The hinge mounts themselves were surprisingly still in good shape and reusable.


Drilling out of spot welds, a good sharp drill bit worked really well.

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Here are the body repairs for the rusted areas. Ended up making my own kick panels and inner rocker panels. IHPA supplied the rocker panels, which fit really well. This was a nice surprise as I have seen several posts on forums where people have had to make adjustments to the aftermarket rockers.

Home made parts, I was able to use the removed parts as patterns.

Inner rocker in progress.



Kick panel installed with outer panel that supports hinge mount.
I ended up deleting the fresh are vents and ducts. Since this will not be a daily driver I figured that in the summer the top will be off most of the time and in the winter a window or wind wing can be cracked when necessary.


Passenger side in progress.

Rocker panel

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With the elimination of the air ducts and the removal of the huge factory heater setup under the hood I needed a heater setup. Ended up getting a summit racing heater for warm air. Now I just needed a location for the install.

Since the summit heater pulls air from the motor that is directly attached to the unit core putting it in the engine bay was out of the question, so I needed to fit it in the cab. After some thought and looking over builds I saw what michael dimock did on his build: http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/readers-rides/7843-modernizing-65-Scout-800-a.html.
This would give me room for the heater and some extra foot room for passengers.

As the heater is a compact unit I was able to fit it behind the dash and still leave room in the engine bay for a battery.IMG_20131116_153733_513.jpg

Fitting of heater/battery sheet metal.

All welded in place.

A little extra foot room.

Space for new heater box.

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Power steering was also on the list of upgrades. Since my 800 was a factory v8 the easiest way to achieve this was with a Scout II steering box. It basically fit in the same location as the manual unit from the factory. Didn't want any issues in the future so the frame was sleeved in all three bolt locations and a 1/4" plate was welded to both the interior, and exterior frame rails.



Box fit nicely and all the angles worked with the steering column.

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Haven't updated in a while so here is a little progress:

electric wiper motors, they fit behind the dash but I had to do some work on the defrost duct.


Here are some pics of my heater/defrost duct work with my custom dash panel that holds the heater vents.



You can see the heater in the glove box opening along with the wiper motor. No room for a glove box, but I will have room in a center consle.

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Here is my shock fab.
I used 1-1/2" tubing to line everything up. The tubing allowed bolting the top and bottom brackets so they wouldn't move, then I just clamped them in place. No fussing to keep everything positioned correctly.




These are just the standard shock tabs that IHPA sells, I welded the plate to the top to hold them together, it also gave me another welding location to the axle tube.


The rear shocks are basically in their stock positions, but the bottom brackets are attached to the axle tube since it is now spring over.



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I couldn't resist putting these on since they were sitting in the garage taking up space.




I'll get some more pics soon. I haven't done the best job of taking them as I go along.


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great job. I like the shoes. Looks like its gunna be a beast! Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the input.
I debated putting 35's on it, but I am glad I went with the 33's instead. It stands a lot taller than I was expecting. It May need a leaf or two removed from the rear spring pack when all is done to level the stance.

I have been watching your build and was wondering how that weather pack connector kit worked out for you? I have been wanting to get it for my wiring but been debating whether it was worth the expense.
thanks for the input.
I debated putting 35's on it, but I am glad I went with the 33's instead. It stands a lot taller than I was expecting. It May need a leaf or two removed from the rear spring pack when all is done to level the stance.

I have been watching your build and was wondering how that weather pack connector kit worked out for you? I have been wanting to get it for my wiring but been debating whether it was worth the expense.
I think the weather pack kit was worth it just for the water proof connections. The kit was like $100 bucks. I think it was a cleaner install.

I like the height. I might settle a bit. I'd run it as is.

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Here are some pictures of my finished dash panel with the electronic gauge kit. All the panels are aluminum. I welded nuts to the back of the dash for the stainless screws. Makes the panels easy to remove. Still have to wire and install switching, but I thought it turned out pretty nice.





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Got the exhaust fabricated, nothing special just a 2-1/4" kit that exits in front of the rear tires. The kit came with a bunch of different hanger options to work with most applications. Used dynomax super turbos for the mufflers and a pair of full length headers that are made for a corvette.

I just kept it simple, there is no cross over pipe and exiting in front of the rear tires kept bends to a minimum. If the exit point does not work out I can modify it in the future to exit behind the tires. Figured since this is not a hot rod the exhaust should function fine.

These headers actually fit surprisingly well. I printed a picture off of the suppliers website and did some rough scaling since they had no dimensions. Once I figured they were close I took a chance and ordered them, it was a relief to get them right on the first try with no returns. I really didn't want to use block huggers.

Had to clearance the drivers side motor mount to fit, I didn't wand to beat up a new header. If the mount shows any signs of stress in the future it can be beefed up.

Mufflers fit nicely right where the body steps up. You can see they block the parking brake cable brackets. Since I have upgraded to a lokar parking break setup those brackets will not be needed. Still working on the location for the lokar hand lever but I have a couple of ideas.

Had to buy a couple of extra bends to get around the t-case. Worked nicely.


The only part of the kit I didn't like was the length of the straight pipe, had to piece two pipes together between the drivers side header and muffler.

Exit point, probably get some nice tips. With sliders it should be protected nicely.

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Got this for a back seat. The colors matched what I have done so far. Still need to mount it, trying to do the dirty greasy work before it gets fit.


Found these seats a while back, nothing special, but they are going to get some extra padding added and recovered with material to match the back seat. Luckily I have an uncle who does upholstery work. He has the seats now and is just waiting on me to send a head rest to him for a material match. Should look good when done.

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I just realize I never mentioned what was installed for gears and traction.

Since the trans is an overdrive I went with 4.88 gears. Should cruise nicely and if I ever upgrade to a 35" tire it will still be geared low enough.

The rear diff has a spartan locker installed. Not my first choice, but a select-able was just to much to spend for me at this point. Did a lot of reading on this type of locker and like every product there are a lot of people who love them and hate them, so I will have to experience it for myself. I will run it like this for a while and upgrade in the future when money to finish the project is not an issue.

The front contains a detroit truetrac. I know it's not the ultimate traction device, but it will do for now. At least it will give some better traction than an open diff and still be manageable in 4wd.