• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

My 67 800

DC67 800

Member
Its been a long summer of projects around the house and I am still not done, but I finally got back to the Scout for part of a day. With fall and winter on the way I should start to make some more progress.

Today I got my parking brake lever set up and came up with a plan for routing the cables.


Under side of the tunnel, you can see the recess that was made to drop the shifter.
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Parking brake lever
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Clearance to t case. This setup gets rid of the bracket and lever that passes under the drive shaft and moves everything above the drive shaft.
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Seriously thinking about converting the rear brakes to disk. All this work makes me want to get it done now and not have to do it later after everything is together and running. I'll try to have some more updates soon.
 

slewis325

New member
I think this question will be ok with the mods.

Have any of you used d&c extreme's cage kit for our 80/800's?
Have you dealt with the new owner?

The roll cage is a project I don't want to tackle from scratch as I don't have access to a bender and don't want to buy one.
I don't mind putting together a kit.

Thanks
damian
I've been using d&c for the last year. Eric the new owner has helped me build my Scout. I have received excellent customer service and competitive pricing. I installed their cage last week and rolled my Scout last weekend. The cage performed perfectly, the fit and quality is outstanding.

Thanks.

Shawn
 

DC67 800

Member
I've been using d&c for the last year. Eric the new owner has helped me build my Scout. I have received excellent customer service and competitive pricing. I installed their cage last week and rolled my Scout last weekend. The cage performed perfectly, the fit and quality is outstanding.

Thanks.

Shawn
Shawn,
thanks for the info. For some reason I didn't get an email that there was a reply to my thread and I haven't checked it in a while.

Did you take any pictures of the assembly? Did the Scout survive?
 

DC67 800

Member
So I went for the rear disk brake upgrade. I won't go into every detail as it is the same as bill usn-1 did over at justih. Thanks for the great informational posts bill.


Here is the Chevy rotor drilled and fit, it was some work but I was able to make it fit. Just went slow and worked my way up in size with drill bits. The raised ridge on the drum centers the rotor when they are placed front to front, then the one stud hole that lines up can be used to bolt the two together. I was then able to use a drill bit the same size as the stud holes to Mark the centers.

I was initially going to use the Ford f150 front rotors as that is what I have on the front axle, would have been nice to have all four be the same. The Ford rotor was slightly thicker, I would have had to shave the pads a little to get them to fit. That was not a killer for me. The thing that made me change my mind was he fact that it didn't fit over the axle flange. So I decided I would rather redrill the Chevy rotors than machine down the axle flange.
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Cadillac el dorado rear caliper. I need to get pressure on the piston from the e brake to hold everything in place when the brackets are being located on the axle. Bill said he used a zip tie to do it, but that spring is strong. I might need to remove the spring and then use a zip tie.
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I didn't have an old pair of calipers so I was missing the short rigid brake line that came off of the caliper, that line is metric on the caliper end and standard on the other. Didn't really want to hunt down an old rusty one or go to GM to try to find one. Luckily I found someone with some knowledge at one of the local parts stores. Found these short brake hoses with a banjo bolt hole on one end and 3/8-24 on the other. I just had to get a couple of metric banjo bolts and I was good to go.
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Couple of pics of the stainless brake lines from IHPA. I had to fab a tab for the rear one at the diff. The upper end of all the lines are just the weld on tabs that come with the brake line kit.
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DC67 800

Member
Got the rear disk brakes wrapped up. Took a little time to figure out how the cadillac rear calipers worked, but once I did it made it a lot easier. Next step will be brake lines and e brake cables. I've test fitted the lokar e brake cables and have a plan for routing.
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You can see how close the caliper comes to the wheel weights. During fabrication I began to question myself as to whether I wanted to use the Chevy rotors and have to redrill new ones in the future. I went and picked up a pair of 2000 dodge rotors to try them out. They were huge. The caliper wouldn't fit inside the wheel. So those were returned and the Chevy's were my choice. Drilling for the 5 on 5.5 was not that hard.
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Here is the wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. This being a combo proportioning valve it has two lines out for the front brakes and one out to the rear brakes that can be adjusted.
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DC67 800

Member
By the way, all my rear drum brake parts are new and the drums have been turned, if anyone is interested in the entire package including backing plates let me know. They are the 11"x 1-3/4" brakes. I May officially put them up for sell in the classifieds.
I will also be attending the rally next Saturday.

Damian
 

DC67 800

Member
So up on post #34 I posted a picture of the front bumper I picked up to use on the project. Well I finally got around to getting it mounted and extended out to fit the width of the Scout.


I struggled with how to mount the bumper as the factory mount is a bit of a pain with having to get inside the frame to reach the nuts/bolts, and I wanted the bumper to be removable. On top of that someone had cut the hole through the frame to remove the bumper at some point. So here is what I came up with. I welded a piece of angle to the lower frame rail, then welded a piece of plate stock with a hole in it to the top frame rail. Through that hole I put a piece of tubing and welded 2"x2"x 1/4" plate with a 5/8 hole to each end. Then welded the tubing to the plate and angle. The 4x6 bumper tubing slides over these and a bolt runs all the way through.
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Here you can see the 4x6 tube slipped over the attachments. The 4x6 was drilled top and bottom to accept a 5/8 grade 8 through bolt.
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Here are some shots of the bumper. I still need to weld it up and deal with the stinger but all in all it worked pretty well. Rear bumper to come.
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DC67 800

Member
Front bumper update.
Finally done.
Got the front brake lines run yesterday, try to get some work on the rears today.
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DC67 800

Member
I don't know why but one thing I have been dreading for this project from the start has been a roll cage. Well I finally decided on a direction and ordered a kit. Ordered it on a Sunday and had it on Thursday. Checked everything out and all the dimensions were spot on. I was anxious to see how much trimming would have to be done.

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I started with the main hoop and set it where I thought it should go. I got lucky because my first attempt turned out to be the right location.
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Then went to work on the a pillar hoops and cross bar. It took me quite a while to get these set in the correct location. I don't have any way to test with the hard top so I spent a good portion of my time checking all the critical dimensions and making sure everything would fit . My biggest concern was the bend in the a pillar hoops as I have seen a build that the inner channel on the hard top hit. All the dimensions were right on.
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Was then able to fit the back which was easy compared to the cab portion. I had to rig up the doors to stay in place as my hinges are garbage.
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Well, I was very pleased with the fit and quality of this kit. If you can't fabricate your own or don't have funds to pay someone to do it this is a great compromise.
On to foot plates, frame tie in and welding.
 

Gertsch

New member
This Scout looks awesome! I love what you have done. I am building an 800B right now. Keep up the good work.
 

DC67 800

Member
The cage is finished. It's taken a while to deal with seat belts, frame tie in bracing. Here's a few pics of the finished product. I'll go into detail on the shoulder belt install at all four seating locations in the future.



Here you can see the seat belt tabs front and rear for the shoulder belts. I also added some extra bracing that did not come with the cage kit. I May add a few gussets here and there in the future.
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The front frame tie ins here are for slider attachment still to come.
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Rear frame tie in
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Center frame tie in.
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DC67 800

Member
Got the seats all mounted this weekend. It took a bit of work but they fit nicely in the Scout. I ended up using the bestop seats that matched the rear seat as I found them for a good price.


Drivers side was pretty straight forward. Just some 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 steel tube as an adapter and to get the seat to a comfortable height. The sliders from the seats I had planned to use for the project bolted right to the bestop seats.
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Built a bracket from tube and plate stock to support the passenger side seat.

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DC67 800

Member
I got started on the rear bumper this afternoon. Initially I was going to fabricate a simple tube bumper for the rear but after finishing the front I wanted a rear bumper to match. I also wanted a step bumper that could hold a licence plate and had a tow hitch.



I didn't want to spend a lot on the bumper so after some searching I came up with a plan that was fairly inexpensive and easy to build.
Found this pro comp bumper for a Jeep which (as with the front bumper) was to narrow for the Scout. So to get the width and create the step I bought a tow hitch that is made to bolt to a step bumper.
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Welded 1/4" plate to three side to create the step, then cut and welded the bumper to the box.
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Mocked up for fit.
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Think I will add some gussets for a more integrated look. I am also going to add some support to the back side to strengthen it for towing. I will show that and frame connection on the next post.
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DC67 800

Member
It's been a while since the last update. Haven't really done much the last couple of months.I still have some work to do on the rear bumper and I will update that in the future.


I am at the point where I need to start wiring, so I have spent some time studying and thinking about things. A while back I picked up an American autowire 22 circuit harness. I went with this harness because I really liked the fact that the the wires are not permanently attached to the fuse block. I also wanted the flexibility to expand in the future without a bunch of excess wire coiled up under the dash. This seemed to be a good solution. However the fuse block itself is quite large, so finding a location in the cab was a struggle.

So here is what I came up with:
made an aluminum plate that bolted to the brake pedal bracket. This gave me a location to bolt the fuse block to that is out of the way yet accessible.
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Fuse block mounted in place, tucked up out of the way and easily accessible. You can see how big the block is. Really wanted to keep it out of the engine bay and this location seems to work.
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uhclem

New member
Great project! I have a 64 80 and a 68 800. I don't plan anything as advanced as this but I am picking up plenty of ideas. I look forward to seeing the finished truck.
 

DC67 800

Member
Not much to update on the 800. Spring/summer is tough to find time to work on it. I did however pick up a family vacation pop up to tow behind the Scout. Have to make due with the work truck until Scout is running. The color matches the Scout interior colors.
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DC67 800

Member
Well the Scout is roadworthy. Took it out on the pavement for the first time the other day. Still haven't taken it to highway speed yet but it seems to tack ok on pavement. I will get some pics posted soon. Had some trouble getting the tci tranny controller to work but that seems to be corrected. I need to get the doors cleaned up and installed. I have a little rust on the bottom of the passenger side door. Trying to figure out how to repair it without replacing the whole thing. The rust is on the front corner so a simple patch is not going to be easy. Any input from you guys who have repaired this spot is welcome. Pictures coming.
 

DC67 800

Member
So here is the door rust I need to repair. Luckily this is it for both doors. Not being a body sheet metal guy I have been able to deal with the rust as it was all flat parts with straight bends, no radius. Not quite sure how to deal with this. I don't have any spare doors to cut a patch out of. Suppose I could try to hunt some down if necessary. You guys have any ideas to repair this area without a patch from a spare door?
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DC67 800

Member
Its been quite a while since my last post for the project. The Scout has actually been roadworthy for some time and I have been driving it when I can. However, there has been a problem with it running to hot, not overheating, just to warm for comfort. I think I have finally gotten that straitened out but it took removing the electric fan and going to a clutch/fan unit with a shroud that required some fabrication. The transmission is also running hotter than it should so my next project will be to replace the cooler with a bigger higher quality cooler than the tube and fin unit it currently has.


Bumpers are finally painted and I am pleased with the finished product.



The Scout rides pretty good on the highway. Cruises nicely at 55. Still need to get the front end aligned and probably have the tires re balanced but overall it seems pretty good.


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