My 67 800

[DC67 800]

cool thank you. Looks like their are at least two scouts out there with more then one piece of Jeep stuff lol. Keep up the awesome build and if time allows keep us in the know.

I was going to comment on the use of Jeep parts, but I had just read another post that Chad shot down about making fun of jeeps (not that I was going to do that).

Funny how well so many of their parts fit the early scouts. Glad they do though as it makes for some easy and inexpensive fabrication.

 

[DC67 800]

So I got the radiator and electric fan mounted today.
The radiator is just a basic universal unit for a Chevy, and the fan is a derale fan that is sized to fit the radiator core.



I had a couple pieces of angle welded to the radiator which allowed for using the factory bolt locations, keeping the radiator where it came from the factory.




The fan came with the standard through the radiator nylon mounting hardware, which I really didn't want to use. Fortunately it also came with some really nice adjustable brackets. They just weren't quite long enough to fit my radiator.




Even though I was not able to use the extension brackets, I was able to use the l brackets that are meant for bolting to the radiator core support, they fit perfectly top and bottom. But my radiator core support did not have enough on the return lip to use a bolt as you can see in the picture. So I drilled a hole through the bottom/ top of the four support brackets.




Then I made four 3/16" spacers and drilled and tapped them to match the holes in the brackets. These fit against the lip of the support to lock the fan in place.




Here you can see the spacers holding the fan in place.




Fan mounted with all four brackets and spacers.




Installed. The derale fan was an upgrade from what I was looking at, but it was worth it for the cooling ability, installation hardware, and the thickness ( about 2-5/8"). Made for an easy install.

 

[DC67 800]

Here are some pics of my gas tank fab. I ditched the two side tanks in favor of a single rear tank.

The tank is a 15 gallon unit for a Jeep. I think it's for a 78-86 cj/wrangler I believe. I saw a similar tank used by IHPA on one of their builds, but they used a newer model with the filler on the drivers side. My tank has the filler on the passenger side. For some reason the sending unit on the newer tank was about 4x the cost as the older unit that I used, so I just went with the older model. Don't really remember what the differences were.


Welded a piece of angle to the frame side rails at the tank corners.



I used a pieces of square tube steel on the sides of the tank for support. The lip of the tank rests on the tubing, there will be a rubber spacer between the two for vibration.



Here you can see the lip of the tank supported by the tubing and hanging from the angle.



Here it is completed. The tank is easily removable should any maintenance become necessary.



Capped the tubing ends to keep debris out.

 

[DC67 800]

Got the shifter fitted and installed. I didn't like the way the shifter tilted back because of the shape of the tunnel cover. The B&M shifter also has the shifter cable coming out the back at an angle and this forced the whole unit to tilt back at a steep angle. Combine these two factors and I wasn't happy with the whole setup. After messing around with it and trimming the skirt wrong I had to come up with something that would work without buying a new skirt. I decided to recess the shifter into the tunnel. As the unit is meant to be in the cab and not below I had to built a recessed box that could support the shifter and keep it out of the elements. This recess allowed the shifter to sit level and got rid of most of the huge plastic skirt. I don't have any pictures of the recessed box that is welded to the tunnel cover, but if anyone is interested I can take a couple and get them posted.



Since the tunnel is removable the shifter cable just has to be disconnected at the tranny and the tunnel and shifter come out as a single unit.



Didn't really like the t handle that came with the shifter. Found a cheap black shift knob for it that matches the shift knobs for the t-case.

 

[punjig]

I like what you have done so far with this build. It's things like the shifter and the tank, etc, etc. That is what I love. everything is custom but it all looks like it could have been done at the factory!

keep us updated on this baby! I cant wait to see the final product when she is done!

 

[DC67 800]

I like what you have done so far with this build. It's things like the shifter and the tank, etc, etc. That is what I love. everything is custom but it all looks like it could have been done at the factory!

keep us updated on this baby! I cant wait to see the final product when she is done!

Thanks,

it's the appreciation for a build from others and watching builds like yours that help keep me motivated to finish.

 

[DC67 800]

Once my heater was installed I had to get the 5/8" hoses through the firewall to the the engine bay. I was having trouble finding a grommet that would fit the hose to make a good seal. So I came up with another solution that seemed very simple and would seal the holes without a grommet.


Her is where the hoses had to pass through.



I made an aluminum plate out of 1/4" plate stock and drilled the correct size holes for the hoses to pass through and bolted the plate to the firewall. The edges of the holes were eased and the holes were sanded smooth.



The hoses were attached to the heater core then passed through the holes and the core installed. There is just enough room to remove the hoses from the core should they need to be replaced.




Anyone know of a good inline shut off valve to keep water from circulating through the heater core in the summer time?

 

[punjig]

thanks,

it's the appreciation for a build from others and watching builds like yours that help keep me motivated to finish.

Ditto that!

 

[DC67 800]

So I picked this bumper up for the project. You can guess what it came off of.

I want your opinions. Should I extend it out on each side to reach the fender line or run it as is? I have an idea to lengthen it that will look good. It doesn't look bad as it is.

Let me know.

 

[fordboy]

Think it would look better if the bumper and bar got extended to wrap around the front marker light. Looks good just don't like how it covers the marker light.

 

[punjig]

I agree 100% with fordboy. If the marker lights were not covered the bumper would look sweet. There is nothing actually wrong with the overall width of the bumper if it were not for the marker lights being covered. And in my opinion, the marker lights on our scouts (I & II's) are a distinct part of these IH trucks.

It might be easy to widen the bumper, but it looks like it might be a little difficult to widen the bars. Maybe cut the bumper and bars in half and add some length in the middle. Grind the welds on the added piece to the bar, skim coat it, and repaint?

Overall, I love this bumper!

 

[DC67 800]

Thanks guys,
the bars covering the marker/turn signal lights is the thing that bothers me also. I think I will just totally remove and replace those bars past the marker lights. I have already picked up some 4x6 steel tube to insert on the outer side of the d ring attachments following the bumper lines similar to the attached picture. I think it will be easier to do it this way rather than trying to just extend the bumper the needed 3"-4" on either side.

 

[fordboy]

I like the idea of widening in the center. Would make the stinger match the grill better. Eather way will look good.

 

[FDChappie]

Don't pretend extend. The idea to add in middle sounds good.

 

[DC67 800]

Nothing to update. With spring here I have been busy with projects around the house and little league.

Did pick up the break lines from IHPA and some other misc. Things for wiring. Will try to get back to the Scout when baseball ends.

I did help a friend pick up this Scout that he won at an online auction. It has a Chevy 350, 4 speed, and Jeep Dana 300. With it being an 80 the motor was just stuffed back close to the firewall and they notched to sheet metal on the drivers side to clear the exhaust manifold, there was no thought to move the radiator and bring the motor farther forward a few inches which would have been a better choice. Overall the body is rough and the work that was done on it is not bad but it could have been better with a little more planning.

He's got it started and the motor runs good. Needs new brake and clutch master cylinders and some wiring work but it will be drive-able soon.

 

[DC67 800]

Its been a long summer of projects around the house and I am still not done, but I finally got back to the Scout for part of a day. With fall and winter on the way I should start to make some more progress.

Today I got my parking brake lever set up and came up with a plan for routing the cables.


Under side of the tunnel, you can see the recess that was made to drop the shifter.




Parking brake lever






Clearance to t case. This setup gets rid of the bracket and lever that passes under the drive shaft and moves everything above the drive shaft.


Seriously thinking about converting the rear brakes to disk. All this work makes me want to get it done now and not have to do it later after everything is together and running. I'll try to have some more updates soon.

 

[slewis325]

I think this question will be ok with the mods.

Have any of you used d&c extreme's cage kit for our 80/800's?
Have you dealt with the new owner?

The roll cage is a project I don't want to tackle from scratch as I don't have access to a bender and don't want to buy one.
I don't mind putting together a kit.

Thanks
damian

I've been using d&c for the last year. Eric the new owner has helped me build my Scout. I have received excellent customer service and competitive pricing. I installed their cage last week and rolled my Scout last weekend. The cage performed perfectly, the fit and quality is outstanding.

Thanks.

Shawn

 

[DC67 800]

I've been using d&c for the last year. Eric the new owner has helped me build my Scout. I have received excellent customer service and competitive pricing. I installed their cage last week and rolled my Scout last weekend. The cage performed perfectly, the fit and quality is outstanding.

Thanks.

Shawn

Shawn,
thanks for the info. For some reason I didn't get an email that there was a reply to my thread and I haven't checked it in a while.

Did you take any pictures of the assembly? Did the Scout survive?

 

[DC67 800]

So I went for the rear disk brake upgrade. I won't go into every detail as it is the same as bill usn-1 did over at justih. Thanks for the great informational posts bill.


Here is the Chevy rotor drilled and fit, it was some work but I was able to make it fit. Just went slow and worked my way up in size with drill bits. The raised ridge on the drum centers the rotor when they are placed front to front, then the one stud hole that lines up can be used to bolt the two together. I was then able to use a drill bit the same size as the stud holes to Mark the centers.

I was initially going to use the Ford f150 front rotors as that is what I have on the front axle, would have been nice to have all four be the same. The Ford rotor was slightly thicker, I would have had to shave the pads a little to get them to fit. That was not a killer for me. The thing that made me change my mind was he fact that it didn't fit over the axle flange. So I decided I would rather redrill the Chevy rotors than machine down the axle flange.




Cadillac el dorado rear caliper. I need to get pressure on the piston from the e brake to hold everything in place when the brackets are being located on the axle. Bill said he used a zip tie to do it, but that spring is strong. I might need to remove the spring and then use a zip tie.




I didn't have an old pair of calipers so I was missing the short rigid brake line that came off of the caliper, that line is metric on the caliper end and standard on the other. Didn't really want to hunt down an old rusty one or go to GM to try to find one. Luckily I found someone with some knowledge at one of the local parts stores. Found these short brake hoses with a banjo bolt hole on one end and 3/8-24 on the other. I just had to get a couple of metric banjo bolts and I was good to go.




Couple of pics of the stainless brake lines from IHPA. I had to fab a tab for the rear one at the diff. The upper end of all the lines are just the weld on tabs that come with the brake line kit.

 

[DC67 800]

Got the rear disk brakes wrapped up. Took a little time to figure out how the cadillac rear calipers worked, but once I did it made it a lot easier. Next step will be brake lines and e brake cables. I've test fitted the lokar e brake cables and have a plan for routing.










You can see how close the caliper comes to the wheel weights. During fabrication I began to question myself as to whether I wanted to use the Chevy rotors and have to redrill new ones in the future. I went and picked up a pair of 2000 dodge rotors to try them out. They were huge. The caliper wouldn't fit inside the wheel. So those were returned and the Chevy's were my choice. Drilling for the 5 on 5.5 was not that hard.




Here is the wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. This being a combo proportioning valve it has two lines out for the front brakes and one out to the rear brakes that can be adjusted.

 

[DC67 800]

By the way, all my rear drum brake parts are new and the drums have been turned, if anyone is interested in the entire package including backing plates let me know. They are the 11"x 1-3/4" brakes. I May officially put them up for sell in the classifieds.
I will also be attending the rally next Saturday.

Damian

 

[DC67 800]

So up on post #34 I posted a picture of the front bumper I picked up to use on the project. Well I finally got around to getting it mounted and extended out to fit the width of the Scout.


I struggled with how to mount the bumper as the factory mount is a bit of a pain with having to get inside the frame to reach the nuts/bolts, and I wanted the bumper to be removable. On top of that someone had cut the hole through the frame to remove the bumper at some point. So here is what I came up with. I welded a piece of angle to the lower frame rail, then welded a piece of plate stock with a hole in it to the top frame rail. Through that hole I put a piece of tubing and welded 2"x2"x 1/4" plate with a 5/8 hole to each end. Then welded the tubing to the plate and angle. The 4x6 bumper tubing slides over these and a bolt runs all the way through.






Here you can see the 4x6 tube slipped over the attachments. The 4x6 was drilled top and bottom to accept a 5/8 grade 8 through bolt.






Here are some shots of the bumper. I still need to weld it up and deal with the stinger but all in all it worked pretty well. Rear bumper to come.

 

[DC67 800]

Front bumper update.
Finally done.
Got the front brake lines run yesterday, try to get some work on the rears today.

 

[DC67 800]

I don't know why but one thing I have been dreading for this project from the start has been a roll cage. Well I finally decided on a direction and ordered a kit. Ordered it on a Sunday and had it on Thursday. Checked everything out and all the dimensions were spot on. I was anxious to see how much trimming would have to be done.






I started with the main hoop and set it where I thought it should go. I got lucky because my first attempt turned out to be the right location.





Then went to work on the a pillar hoops and cross bar. It took me quite a while to get these set in the correct location. I don't have any way to test with the hard top so I spent a good portion of my time checking all the critical dimensions and making sure everything would fit . My biggest concern was the bend in the a pillar hoops as I have seen a build that the inner channel on the hard top hit. All the dimensions were right on.






Was then able to fit the back which was easy compared to the cab portion. I had to rig up the doors to stay in place as my hinges are garbage.






Well, I was very pleased with the fit and quality of this kit. If you can't fabricate your own or don't have funds to pay someone to do it this is a great compromise.
On to foot plates, frame tie in and welding.

 

[Gertsch]

This Scout looks awesome! I love what you have done. I am building an 800B right now. Keep up the good work.