Limited disassembly of a 1980 IC 196

I bored the center of my aluminum disc so I could install or remove the pulley without removing the disc. Duh! :idea: pulley stack drilled for roll pins. All eight allen head bolts safety wired. Pick-up sensor aligned with 9th tooth 90 degrees away from tdc. In operation, when the missing tooth passes the sensor 90 degrees btdc, it knows when to begin the countdown for whatever advance is required for the next ignition event. Gap is around 0.040" but is not super critical.

Tappet cover and oil pan installed with gaskets and also using "the right stuff". Is that stuff messy! Yesterday welded on the new ball stud on that bracket on the frame (when one runs without those nylon bushings, ball and relay tube go metal to metal and the ball loses). Got a salvaged section from ihon to "graft" in. I'm not much of a welder, but it will hold.

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Weather permitting, next weekend the engine goes in. :dita::dita:
 
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I had posted these progress pictures over on bp and neglected to post them here where the project really gets documented. Right now I'm taking a break from my struggle to install that t19. I'm working alone on a hard cold garage floor (it snowed yesterday) and using an atv jack. Scout is on jackstands, the jack doesn't raise high enough so I'm slowly building it up with scraps of 2x4s. I hate this part, but last weekend I thought I'd hate putting the engine in first, more. Silly me. That was a fight. Maybe it's that I'm just getting too old.

I digress. Here's how the engine looks, nice and purdy. I mocked up the turbo parts, including the original manifold heat shield. Pretty cool. Regarding the turbo, I just put on the e flow compressor housing (no guts in this thing anyhow). I have a b flow I need to have machined out for the e wheel - that should make casting up a carb adaptor much easier than figuring out something with this large e flow inlet (it's 3" diameter). The oil drain line will shorten up and be neater. In the original install, there were two special manifold bolts that were 3/8" coarse that went into the head (two forward most), and with 5/16" (1/4"?) projections that the heat shield secured to. I'll need to use all thread and machine down/thread a projection or figure out something.IM002144.jpg

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And these, installed. Too bad the rest of the engine bay looks like crap. I do need to cleanup and paint the ps pump and other tidbits.

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Robert,
opinion time. I have five quarts of comp cams break-in oil. Is that sufficient or should I also add eos or something comparable?
 
Assuming the break in oil is high zddp, add one qt of your favorite zddp bearing off the shelf oil to the other 5 and break her in...

I know you didn't ask but read on if you would like.
I would run the break in oil for 100 miles and change it out but swap in a new filter like a mobil one after 10 miles of firm driving.....
 
I did plan on a drain/fill after driving it a bit, so that's a plan. What I really thought of doing was after the twenty-minute break-in, or a bit after, pull the valve cover and verify that the pushrods are rotating to confirm cam lobe action. I know they can spin relatively fast, judging from short vids others have posted, but what amount of rotation would be minimally acceptable if they all didn't spin at the same rate? Any rotation at all?

I've already verified that my t-stat will open before a boil. I won't repeat that Mistake with a fresh engine.
 
New stock-ish exhaust system is installed. I was able to salvage the original 2 1/4" head pipe and plumbed the rest for 2 1/4" (and muffler), and a replacement walker tailpipe. Still available, huh. Man, those things have a lot of wrinkles in the bends! This system will serve for the initial fire up and break in. Then off it comes and plumb in the turbo piping. I digress. The point of this addition is that before I go further I needed to install the edis ignition coil pack and ignition driver. (look, ma, no distributor!!!) these items bolted nicely to the lip above the tunnel. Their location will make for easy wiring, access for servicing, and a relatively cool spot while running. I've done this before from the cut off weather pack plugs I salvaged. The longest wire to #1 spark plug is barely long enough, so I'll either have some custom wires made or head to pnp to grab one from a edis v8 donor, which uses very long wires. These secondary wires will be safely behind the original heat shield pads pictured earlier. Some wires from the ignition driver will feed into the interior where the megajolt will reside. I need to plumb a 1/8" nylon tube (like feeds those aftermarket oil gauges) from the manifold to the megajolt as this will need a map signal to account for running negative/positive manifold pressures.

Side note: this weekend I had my laptop stolen. On it was the megajolt program, as well as my only copies of ignition maps I used for my corvair corsa, which were very close to the baseline needed to construct an ignition map for the Scout. An unnecessary pain to reconstruct!
 

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I'm now this close To the initial fire up! I'm trying to pre-oil it to the point where oil comes from the rocker shaft. I started at tcd #1, spun the oil pump 5-10 seconds, then moved another 5 degrees or so, went around twice. No evidence of oil coming onto the rear most boat rockers. I'm going to go round again. Surely that cam journal lined up enough - twice - to pass oil upwards. I am building great oil pressure, btw.

Anyone notice about what crank position lines up the oil passages for this?
 
Can't comment on crank/cam position to line up the holes, but there is probably only one port on the 196 that supplies oil pressure to the rockers. The pic shows what an sv8 would do, and since the heads will fit either side, it stands to reason your head would do this too.

If you have oil to the shaft, all of the rockers should be leaking during pre-oil procedures. If one or more seems dry, then it might be time to pull the rocker assembly and see how much oil is really coming up the port. If the cam is lined up right, you should see 50 psi or so blowing through there (use a rag!). During pre assembly, did you run a welding rod or coat hangar down that port to verify the cam bearing holes were lined up? Its not unheard of to have to run a long aircraft drill bit down the port to bring the cam hole up to spec. Mayben has pics of that procedure on here somewhere (sonja motor?).

Anyway, it might have been just a case of the cam being just barely lined up right. Some oil but not enough for a given angle. Have a friend run the drill while you slowly wrench the crank bolt until you see the fountain that should be there.

You might also check the rocker shaft itself to make sure the holes to offending rockers aren't plugged (you did pop the shaft plugs and brush out the crud, right?).

Let us know what you find!
 

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I kept at it and finally got oil! From #1 tdc, position is roughly one complete revolution, then go an additional 180 to 200 degrees. It comes on after that point. Now I have a terrible mess as it appears I had sprung a leak in the oil filter adapter base gasket while spinning it up. Lost about a quart of oil all over the floor.
 
Nice! Good it was something simple. Also good you found your leak at the filter before you started the engine break-in. Stopping that procedure to fix an oil or coolant leak is never fun...
 
Well, if it was only that simple. I've confirmed that the leak is due to a casting defect in the block. Someone had "fixed" it with liquid metal or braze or something. Could have happened at the factory, even. The area bridges the lowest part of the adapter where the casting must apply sufficient pressure to prevent leakage. Being slightly recessed, that can't happen and oil now squirts out between the gasket and block. I never noticed this before as when I had the block tanked, some of the old gasket stubbornly remained and covered this up. I never noticed it when I scraped and cleaned it prior to reinstalling the adapter. Oh well. Try to build it up with jb weld and level it out.
 
Mark pietz said:
well, if it was only that simple. I've confirmed that the leak is due to a casting defect in the block. Someone had "fixed" it with liquid metal or braze or something. Could have happened at the factory, even. The area bridges the lowest part of the adapter where the casting must apply sufficient pressure to prevent leakage. Being slightly recessed, that can't happen and oil now squirts out between the gasket and block. I never noticed this before as when I had the block tanked, some of the old gasket stubbornly remained and covered this up. I never noticed it when I scraped and cleaned it prior to reinstalling the adapter. Oh well. Try to build it up with jb weld and level it out.
Click to expand...

Mark I have had to resort to casting repairs myself a time or two... I go after it one of two ways...
1) spot mig wend material back and file/grind flat...
2) brazing or silver solder a length of sold copper wire in place and file/grind flat...

Mig is safer and adds the least amount of total heat to get it done... My 409 had water pump flang corrosion on the block that left a v grove across the gasket surface and I used the small mig to build it back up... Couldn't even see it after dressing it out.

I know people who have tig brazed brass in the same circumstances with great sucess.
 
Robert,
I'll puzzle it out tomorrow. I'd need to remove whatever it is that's in there now. Looks like a light colored metal. Anyway, when I filled the engine with oil, put in six quarts and the dry oil filter. After spinning things up was slightly over filled (of course now I'm down about a quart!). Do I run this now with filter primed and oil level to normal line, or do I add an extra quart? I know there've been postings on the desirability of running an extra quart.

Now hoping to get this thing running by next weekend. I'm going to record some of that on my iphone. Isn't technology wonderful?
 
Circumstances being what they are, welding is out of the question, at least for now. I used jb weld and built up the depression (about 3/16" square area about 0.015" depressed, I guess. Enough for a leak), and filed it down flush. Filed flush the adaptor itself, it had slight warpage (duh). Yesterday bolted it all up and spun up the pump again. It had some seepage. So I wiped it all off. Tonight I spun it up again, and no seepage. Wonder if the high tack just needed to set and the gasket settle a bit.

Anyway, I now won't have an opportunity to fire this up until the first weekend next year. :icon_mrgreen:
 
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