The DD Known As "Chunk"

Yore not alone Mike. The 800 needed so much work similar to chunk after a few excursions I started calling her "barn sour". She ain't no more.
 
During the cooling system service ops, this little problem was discovered:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.co...c-tech/4331-freak-engine-cooling-anomaly.html

And...last nite, the inside of the fan shrouded was patched back together and fiberglas'd to make it one piece again.

All the hang-on emissions quapo has been boxed to go in sumbody's time capsule, now ya can see the motor and service access is much mo'better!

Bitch might be whole again today so I can move on to the next big deal.
 
Test drive was successful, nothing else broke in the last 10 miles!

The ass end now sits 1" higher than before, that means the rig is now leveled. The brake sets for both rear axles are identical so no difference there. With the weight of the rig on the springs, the rear driveshaft did mount up, but it's at the end of travel of the slip yoke. So I'm gonna go ahead and get on the rebuild of the d60 soon. Also, the tread width of the pickup d44 is 2" narrower than the d60, so now it looks stoopid with the wheels sukked back into the fenders.

With the elimination of the external smog components, drivability is greatly improved and idle quality is somewhat better, though still grossly affected by the cam profile.

Engine temp is now right on target with the 190f stat and the oem temp gauge needle sits just inside the "normal" tick line.

Next up...a poorboy a/c retrofit to r-134a, summer is here! I'll run it that way until the compressor takes a shit and then use a CPT compressor adapter cradle from ihon and install a seltec/tama compressor with a proper high pressure cut switch and receiver/drier.
 
michael mayben said:
Next up...a poorboy a/c retrofit to r-134a, summer is here! I'll run it that way until the compressor takes a shit and then use a CPT compressor adapter cradle from ihon and install a seltec/tama compressor with a proper high pressure cut switch and receiver/drier.
Click to expand...


Don't hold your breath, my compressor is still running strong 5 years later and still blowing cold.
 
After making two extended town trips this past week in chunk with no letdowns, I figgrd I was finally winning the battle.

So yesterday we elected to take the rig up to carl's wedding and shivaree.

Made it about seven miles and "ran out of gas". The fuel gauge levels are meaningless and I just run it by the odo right now.

After calling for road service and waiting an hour and a half, five gallons of shitforgas made no difference and it was obvious that the fuel pump had taken a dump as nothing was pushing to the filter.

So we gotta ride back to the shophouse onna rollback. By then it's too late to make the 125 mile drive for the shivareee even.

I got plenty of crapped fuel pumps on the shelf here, but no new ones. So now the rig is staged for yet another episode of repair. Then make an attempt to git momma to the aeropuerto on Monday without a breakdown. Pumps are on the shelf in glenwood at brooks.

I normally carry a complete electric backup fuel delivery system in the truck spares box, but since I'm having to stock a new box for chunk, I had not put the fuel pump kit in it yet though there is a bunch stuff in it already.
 
A starter and alternator will make a ride home on my next town trip. I normally keep one of each on the shelf anyway but all I have currently are cores to turn in.

And parts for a remote starter relay addition are inna box on the shelf right now.

The trans will git opened up sometime after the bee, I don't have time to deal with that now.

The sumbitch that assembled this motor shoulda had hiz fingers chopped off. Reused the dam original fuel pump gasket and slathered it with rtv, and had a bolt in the problematic mounting hole that was too long and did not clamp the pump. That is the blind hole that is prone to stripping.
 
I really do feel bad for mayben. It seems like every time he tries to put a little faith in chunk, chunk turns around and poops all over him!


Hopefully it gets better!
 
Jerry an I got no simputhee fer papa. Now he an chunk is fynlee the new poster-brats fer puttin' long-neglected guttpyles back inta reglar serviss. Hez bin preachin' it since dwight david wuz a kid, now hez livin' it.
 
And tha dam 'rango will always be a setter or turn into plastic yardart! It's gittin' greener by the week and will be soon moved out back to make space for more real motor vehicles. Throwin' fuel pumps and axles at crap like this beats hail outta throwin' in-tank fuel pumps, pooters, electronic valve bodies, shift-on-the-fly motors, and cam drive belts at plastic trucks.

I'll keep throwin' shit at chunk as long as it takes for it ta stick. Then maybe I'll start on the rot repair.
 
It's been a battle all the way. But I think I won yesterday, I'll know for sure after putting 300 miles on it tomorrow to go up to sheridan days for a club parade entry.

I had lost track of that Holley 4150 core that ihon member (and recently retired marine!!) charlie brown sent me that came off goldie last year. I put the box away onna shelf and never opened it. Found it again when cleaning out all the packaging I have here to put on the burnpile. It is exactly the carb I was looking for to build for chunk so I would not have to buy a new one!

Turns out it was a previous reman (charlie May not have known that??) and the metering blocks had been butchered and re-plugged. It was a hot air choke version so an easy conversion to full electric choke by simply installing an electric cap.

So...I sterilized it and fixed several issues it had (stripped threads, etc.), then jetted it for what I thought this "built" 392 would like. And of course I installed new brass floats, the old nitrophyl floats were both "sunk".

Once installed it proved to be worse that the oem carb! So off it came again for additional work. Turned out one of the new power valves (this list 4150 uses a power valve in both ends) would hold vacuum during testing (I always confirm operation of power valves before installing), but it also leaked raw fuel even though the vacuum component sealed! First time I've ever seen that.

So I also re-jetted again after determining that this motor could not use the jetting I thought would work. That did the trick! Once it was installed again and proper electric choke operation verified, the idle mixtures were able to be controlled in a proper manner. At this point, the idle quality is as good as it can be with a breaker point distributor setup. The cam definitely is still creating an aggressive idle and will never smooth out like a stocker, that is to be expected.

So next on the engine-side agenda is to set up a fresh ignition system using a mag trigger distributor and another mallory or msd six series cd box with a suitable coil that can use the cd system to best advantage. I also need to perform the retrofit on the ac, everything needed for that is on hand right now, I'll get that done before kathy drives it up to Binder Bee with the dawgs.

If...I'm able to make it up and back to sheridan tomorrow without having to call road service for a tow, then I'll pronounce chunk as a dd for us at this point. I've now put about 250 miles on it since the fuel pump issue, this correct carburetor certainly makes it more pleasurable to drive in traffic and the cold start with electric choke is instantaneous, just like the beater truck!
 
You probably should have waited until after the parade to say anything. Now you will most likely have a spectactular meltdown in the middle of the parade.

I hope for your sake anyway "chunk" will hold off on any more breakdowns.

The challenge of owning and rehabbing old iron is it is old iron. Everything has a useful life and most of our old iron is well past the point where things need to be renewed, refurbished, and/or refreshed.

The question always becomes what is most important in regards to time and $$$. Leaking vital fluids always get high priority but the little things can really make you crazy.

Good luck and have fun in sheridan. I "get" to go to forks, wa so that my wife can attend a math camp. I would much prefer to be going to sheridan with my t-all.
 
If you "should" need assistance by the lebanon area, I'd be more the willing to help, or give last rites:incazzato::gringrin:
541-409-3761
 
dkminors said:
I doubt you need anything for chunk, but the sheridan pick-n-pull just got in another '73 IH pickup About a week ago.
Click to expand...

What I need...is the lower half of left and right rear quarter panels that ain't rotten so I can skin chunk. Crashed and bashed uppers are fine from a rig being parted, all I need is the lower 12" between the end cap and the trailing edge of the wheel well. But then, so does everyone else who has a squarebody t'all crapball.

The rest of the rot in the lower extremities is easily repaired with flatgoods.

Just got back from a 100 mile town trip with stop and go city cruisin', sumbitch ran nice and fires instantly hot or cold. But this 9 to 1 compression don't work worth shit with this e10 "regular" shitforgas. I refuse to run any higher octane shit, so a timing computer is gonna go on the list to be combined with the cd sparkbox. The problem is not the distributor curve, it's the dam compression, I'd never bump the compression over stock onna street driven IH tractor motor.

But then, if ya keep yore foot off the loudpedal, the detonation ain't an issue.

A spare alternator is now on board in the spares box, I'm having a fresh starter built at j&s in u-jerzee to pick up next week, they no longer keep IH-pattern starters on the shelf, but he tells me they have built and shipped out five IH units just this past week.
 
You might want to check with superscoutspecialists...

I recall (vaguely) a thread on binder planet a year or so ago about somebody making some... But, I cannot find the thread... To see if any were made
 
robertc said:
you might want to check with superscoutspecialists...

I recall (vaguely) a thread on binder planet a year or so ago about somebody making some... But, I cannot find the thread... To see if any were made
Click to expand...

Quarters and other patch panels are on the the list for future production by light line. But currently not available. Some floor patches along with rockers are available now for pickall.

Light line has continued to roll out many new parts off the original tooling this past year. Even in an economy that is major sukkage, the light line folks are doing what they can to keep this crap alive. Just the costs to refurbish the worn out tooling they have for the sheetmetal is exorbitantly expensive, this shit just doesn't grow like taxpayer-subsidized corn in the midwest!
 
Don't see why 9-1 won't run on regular. The last hand full of IH sv's I have built have all been 9-1 and a few notches up on cam. Neither have detonation issues and are running 35* total timing.

The block must be zero decked though to setup proper quench distances of between .045 and .040. The quench induces very intense combustion chamber turbulence as the flame front begins to mature and ensures even burn and even temperature. While most poo poo zero decking because it can only be a hot rodder trick but on todays shit-gas it is becoming more and more necessary. Even on a stock compression engine it can help fuel economy by allowing a leaner afr and still make good power.


The trick on a bigger cam is more initial assuming the engine can handle it and curved to come all in on the centrifugal an bit later when quench turbulence is up and running like gang busters. The engine can take more timing at that point. The other is the vacuum advance should be retarded also. Basically make the vacuum signal have to be higher before it gives more advance.

On a heavy truck like chunk you might consider slightly later shift points and earlier drop down. Ive not had to do that on the engines I have built but can help.

While I might be preaching to the choir it is good info.
 
I agree with your analysis Robert! But...it's turning out that this engine was basically a botched build from the beginning. I have no idea and no way to verify how the block and heads were prepped in '87 when it was supposedly done and subsequently parked with under 3k miles accumulated.

No doubt the distributor setup is oem (emissions) also, and along with the oem carb I just shitcanned is far from matched to this motor build.

Since I don't have a distributor machine, installing a timing computer will allow the distributor curve to be dialed in that enhances the engine's setup without having to pull it numerous times playing with it and not really being able to effectively read the curve. Then once I hit the right curve, the data can be transferred to the actual mag-trigger distributor that I'm gonna run permanently and the timing computer moved over to the crank trigger system on the stroker 152.

When the initial timing is advanced to the "right" point, the motor begs to be hammered and delivers in an impressive manner....and along with that, detonation is unbearable! With the base timing retarded to the point that it's drivable with only slight detonation under full load, the motor is a dog and not near as strong as a stocker.

But right now, my focus is making this pos a reliable dd. I did 300 miles in it yesterday,...that resulted in what calcs out to 11mpg overall which is fantastic for one of these rigs! And that included about 30 minutes of poking down the street at an idle in gear for the parade. And that kinda putzin' around showed that the carb is prolly still two jets Rich on both primary and secondary, though cold and hot start is now instantaneous.

The ignition system will be addressed after the Binder Bee. For now, the only thing left to do is make the a/c blow cold this week.
 
You will want to swing by my table at the Binder Bee swap meet....

msd1.jpg


I have the instructions and everything..... :ihih:
 
Michael, I'm sure you're way ahead of me on this one, but I'll throw this out and see if it sticks.
I was having similar symptoms with my rig when I got it going. It too is 9.0-1, but the block was zero decked and a composite head gasket used (.041" compressed). Despite what Robert kenny said about quench, I still experienced more knock than I expected (no offense Robert. It sounds like your stuff runs fine!).
When it came time to smog it, I needed a functional egr, and lo and behold, the knock stopped when I got it hooked up. I went from 5 deg btdc to 12 at idle. By 3000 rpm, the Mark is off the scale so I can't say what my total is, but I'm running a mallory unilite w/ vacuum advance (a swap meet score many years ago). I guess I could pull the vacuum line and see what the centrifugal contributes. Or borrow someone's dial-back light.
Bottom line, this made a huge difference in driveability. A friend says this is actually cooling the intake charge (hard to believe...)
also, I too am against running an IH motor on anything higher than 87 octane. Just doesn't seem right. Which isn't to say I wouldn't, but I get your vibe.
Good luck. Hope you get it sorted.
 
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