Scoutaholic

Sb
I got it. I'll run the wires in the harness down and make sure they are connected to the right parts on the ignition system. I' going to get a new coil and check the ohms 1.4>1.8.

Check list:
rebuilt carb
new coil
prime the oil pump (15min)
new gold box
hot battery
sun is shine'in
hope I stabbed the dizzy back in right

should equal = ignition blast-off


anybody see anything let me know asap
 
Okay, we're getting back on track. This is good. For grins, and to satisfy curiousity, you ought to test that coil you have now. It's likely more than 1.8 ohm and as such won't work for your needs. But, it just might surprise us and be right on the money. Basic oem replacement coils aren't real expensive. You don't need any fancy schmancy high dollar flamethrower or similar "performance" coil. Like Mike said, just a basic coil for any Scout II will do. I'd still test it right there in the store to make sure it's within 1.4 to 1.8.
 
Sb
I tested it right there in the store, but it would get me a reading then go to "0" real quick? I used the 200k range. Is this normal? It read like 3.0 to1.7then to 0 real quick.
 
If you us a range that will read 200k ohms to check a resister that is say 1.5 ohms, it will not have the resolution to display the reading . 200,000.00 is a lot of digits and I would guess the vom has 4 max.

Chose a low resistance range like 10-1k. The display should not have the meg (m) or kilo (k) symbol on the side and give you 00.0 significant digits or better 0.00. Most digital vom's have an auto ranging mode that will chose the range best suited for the load.
 
I tried them all but they all went 0 fast. I held the leads together and the dvom showed a reading of 0 so I think its working.
 
Either way, to read low resistance the range/meter has to give you the decimal place and atleast one 0 to the right and 2 to the left of it. If not you can't measure 1.5 ohms. Make sure the leads are plugged in right black in com and red in the v-ohms-amps location. One last thing you will not get a good reading if in the tone continuity mode when it gives you a beep while the leads are touching each other. That range only gives you a 0 with no decimal point.
 
Gittin motor to go pop-pop-pop, but no run:( whats the best way to get gas tank off? Front bolts (closest to cab) or the rear bolts (closest to to rear bumper)first? Any suggestion on the start up?
 
Hopefully you're bypassing the onboard tank so you can supply the carb with fresh, clean fuel from a small container for your initial startups. The popping indicates you have fuel and spark interacting in some measure. My first guess is your timing is probably off, which is very easy to achieve when re-stabbing a distributor. Try advancing it some first and see if that gets you closer. If your dizzy stab is off by a tooth or more, again very easy to do, you'll have to re-stab it.

As for the tank removal, if I recall correctly, it works best to lower from the front mounts. Of course you've got all the assorted fuel and ventilation hoses to deal with, which are likely rotten as hell, so you May as well cut 'em.
 
I still getting alot a pop pop pop in between turning over. I redid tdc on #8 and then restabbed the dizzy and I'm pretty sure I'm dead on but still no ignition. I rebuilt carb and wondering if thats my problem? I've got hot spark out of the coil wire? Spark out of plug wire. Should start but know luck any help would be great. Thanks in advance.
 
Is fuel getting to the plugs? Is the starter cranking the engine over quickly and easily, or is it laboring? Are you sure you routed the spark plug wires in the proper firing order? Is the choke/butterfly plate functional so that you can restrict the air intake for first cold start?
 
Sb74
yes yes and yes? I'm about there, it almost started once but I had nobody to adjust the dizzy? If I had somebody there I think it would have fired. I'm not gettin a good squirit in the carb but I am getting gas through it I can see it coming out the nozzles.
 
You're not getting a good squirt out of the nozzles, but you can see fuel coming out? Is it just a pathetic dribble then? You should get a strong squirt from each nozzle every time you work the throttle. If not, your carb is not capable of delivering enough fuel to run the engine due to faulty parts or something being out of adjustment. This could include an improper float setting in the fuel bowl or even a faulty fuel pump.
If the squirting action is okay, perhaps you just haven't introduced enough fuel to the combustion chamber yet. You could pour a whiskey shooter's worth of fuel down the gullet and see if that get's it to fire up. Leave the timing alone for now if there's good reason to suspect a carb issue. That will need to be dealt with before going much further, unless you happen to have another known good carb you could swap on there. Do you have a digital camera? If so, please take some good pics of the carb from all angles for proper identification. We May even need to have you start a new thread about the carb itself under the carb tech section.
 
Pulled carb, and when I press down on the lever (accelatorpump) I get no sqirit but on the way back up gas comes out of two nozzeles on top of the ventrius? Going to take the top off and go from threre. ?
 
May have found problem? My gasket between the air horn and carb body I had to cut so the big bolt that holds the air cleaner could screw in? Would this effect the gas sqiriting? Gasket is cut back far enough it can't build pressure has the pump pushes down? Anybody got a picture of that gasket so I can compare?

I just looked in carb section and post #27 shows the solid tang that is stick out into the ventrius? I cut the whole tang off and I think it should have been just a small semi-circile cut for the bolt? Back on page one I can see a gasket and its shows it semi-cut.

So everybody beware of the 929a carb kit and not cut to much of that tang off like I did! I'll have to buy another kit now just for the gasket?:9

hope this help somebody down the road.
 
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It sure would help to see what it is you're dealing with. The information you've provided thus far as been lacking in specific details and your descriptions are ambiguous at best. Please do not take this as a personal attack on you. I realize you're not a mechanic. I'm not either. Very few of us on this forum actually are. It's okay if you don't have the proper terminology, but we do need more facts to go on if we're even going to have a shot at solving this. I wanna help you bud, in the worst possible way, but you gotta help me and others help you. As far as I know, we still haven't made a positive id on your carb yet. There are numerous possibilities here. You make reference to a post number of a thread in the carb tech section, but you fail to mention which thread it's in. There's lots of threads in there. Basically what I'm saying is you can't assume anything. Please provide as much known information as you can with every post.
 
Sb74, sorry, and thanks for all your help! The carb is a Holley 2210c with a list #r7309a. Motor is a 345. The carb section I was referring to is 22xx carb section and post #27 is showing a 929a hygrade carb kit that I used in my rebuild, but if you go back to page 1 and post #14 of the carb tech section there is one picture showing the gasket that goes between the air horn and the carb main body and it shows how the gasket is cut out to allow for the air cleaner screw. My gasket didn't have a cut out for air cleaner screw to screw in so I cut it out and I think when I cut it out so I could screw the screw in it messed up my carb gasket enough it will not squirit the gas through the right ports (theres a big air gap and the gas is not getting directed in the right direction)? You have to look at the picture close to see the difference in the two gasket.
 
No worries dude. Now that I've seen the pics, I understand what you're talikng about. Good on ya for immersing yourself in that tech thread. There's a ton of great info therein. As far as having to buy a complete kit just for the gasket, in a lot of cases it is possible to purchase individual gaskets, but it's vital to get the correct one. There are a multitude of variations of these mixers with many subtle differences with regards to fuel and vacuum passages. The list number which you've provided and the IH part number (which we still need you to provide) will be helpful in sourcing the correct gasket. I haven't messed around much with this particular model mixer, but Mike mayben plays with them every day. They have a well earned reputation for being quite difficult for the average novice to make play nice. They often require a whole lot more than simply throwing a rebuild kit in them and calling it good. Not sure how tight your budget is on this ride, but you might consider upgrading to a Holley 2300. This store sells them. They also provide rebuild or core exchange service too. Any of those might be options for you to consider going forward. I am not affiliated with ihon in any way shape or form, so the preceding was not a sales pitch. Just a friendly suggestion.
 
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Sb
I'll probally upgrade and been reading about the 2300. Is the 2300 a direct bolt on? Right now I just want to get the motor started. I don't want to put alot of money in it till I hear it run. I hope I don't have to rebuild the motor to get it running; because, that means I'd have to listen to the wife for about 6 months in my ear.:ihih: I've got spark ,now I need alittle gas and hopefully I'll get ignition sooner than later. Oh and the IH part number on the carb is: 465663-c91 3245
I hope people see my comment on the 929a carb kit and don't cut that tang like me. I knew when I did it I was going to regret it.:yikes:
 
It is a direct bolt on, although there are a number of minor things to bear in mind. First off, the list # you want is 7448 which is a 350 cfm version. There is also a 500 cfm version of the 2300 which is not a good choice for these engines. Next, the 2300 airhorn is a different diameter than the 2210 horn which means you will need to source a different air filter canister be it a closed-off oem design or an aftermarket open element style. You May need to retain and transfer over the ball stud and other assorted linkage fittings. The choke setup is likely to be entirely different thus likely to be non-transferable between the two.
Vacuum hose routing will also be a little different.
You're coming in 5 by 5 on the $$$$ considerations. Many of us are working with limited budgets on these junk piles and the ever watchful eyes of that special someone.:incazzato:
 
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