Project Karma

[rivera78s2]

Frame looks great!

 

[Tahoedonner]

So with the engine still in limbo I have decided to refresh the front d44 with new ball joints, u joints, wheel bearings, spindle bearings and seals, new locking hubs, powder coated calipers, and some dimpled and slotted disc brakes.

Here is a link to my post in the axle tech section:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/axle-tech-questions/7865-front-d44-refresh.html#post55254


With Jeff's advice I am just going to clean the rust off the shafts and seal it all back up.

Here are some photos of what I found during the breakdown:

 

[Tahoedonner]

Got the new u joints and ball joints installed. Also cleaned up and painted the knuckles and axle housing with the eastwood chassis black paint. Next step is to get the wheel bearings, calipers, rotors, spindles, and new locking hubs installed. Here are a couple pics of what has been completed so far.

Ball joints and painted knuckles:

Freshly sanded and painted axle housing:

New ujoints and cleaned up axle shafts:

 

[Tahoedonner]

Got the spindles all cleaned up and bearings installed.

Wheel hubs are getting powder coated so couldn't finish the job today. Here's what the old wheel bearings looked like. Top one is from the drivers (long shaft) side. Grease is solid black.

 

[vancetater]

Wow looking good on redoing all those parts. I want to ask you if u need any engine parts I have a load of brand new stuff if your in need of anything and I still need to come get that old junk one from you. I am planing on going to the hollister meetup on the 24th
im not sure if your goin at all mayby we can meet up some time.

 

[Tahoedonner]

wow looking good on redoing all those parts. I want to ask you if u need any engine parts I have a load of brand new stuff if your in need of anything and I still need to come get that old junk one from you. I am planing on going to the hollister meetup on the 24th
im not sure if your goin at all mayby we can meet up some time.

Thanks vance. I'm good right now on parts. No meet up for me. I will be working every weekend for the next month on the truck getting it running. Anytime you can pick that engine up is fine with me.

 

[Tahoedonner]

So I'm still waiting for my hubs and some other stuff from the powder coater so I decided to start prepping the engine bay and parts for the new engine going in next week. Sanded and painted the firewall and inner fenders with some eastwood underhood black paint that is meant to replicate oem sheen. Since I've never seen a clean Scout in person I will take their word for it. I also coated the wheel wells with some rubberized coating for some texture and then painted over that to seal out any water and or dirt that tends to get trapped. Turned out pretty nice.

Drivers inner fender

Passenger inner fender

Also started prepping a bunch of the bolt on engine parts in preparation for the "crate" engine that I've purchased.

Prestolite distributor w/ old cap for masking. This is coated with some vht aluminum paint and a gray engine enamel primer. I am highly impressed with the quality of this paint.

Also coated the timing cover and valley pan in some gloss black engine enamel that will match the engine and intake manifold.

 

[Tahoedonner]

Took the powder coater 5 weeks to coat my hubs and numerous engine parts. Initially I was livid until he said that there was no charge.

Got the spindles, hubs, wheel bearings, new disc brakes and calipers installed today. Only thing left to button up the front axle is to get some extended brake lines installed.

Should be able to drop the engine in tomorrow.

Here's the intake manifold in gloss black. Looks brand new.

Here are some shots of the new brakes, calipers and warn hubs installed.

 

[Scooter]

5 weeks? Damn. At least they didn't charge ya. Gues I'm spoiled having a good friend who works for a powder coating company with a turn around time of only a few days. And for my own parts for the cost of a 6 pack

looks good though.

 

[Tahoedonner]

Got the new engine dropped in on Sunday. Engine is a remanufactured 345 long block with a comp rv cam that has been balanced. Sealed it all up with new fel pro gaskets, installed the flywheel and sealed the bolts, rebuilt the oil pump to spec, and picked up all new grade 8 hardware for the install. Dropped it in by myself with the help of some guide bolts which was an idea I picked up in someones thread on this forum. Sent the valve covers off to get chromed. No issues this time bolting up the torque converter. dropped the engine on some of the IH only rpt motor mounts. Can't say enough about the quality of these. Absolutley spot on. Here's some pics of the process and new engine partially put together.

Action photos my wife took without me knowing. Not sure how I didn't notice the flash in the background.

Here's some reandom shots of the engine.

Passenger side

Front view

Top view

Underneath

Rpt motor mounts

 

[Tahoedonner]

Only had a couple hours worth of daylight after work today but was still able to button up a couple things. I had the powder coater blast my exhaust manifolds after I had them trued at a machine shop. I mentioned to him that I was going to coat them with some vht exhaust manifold paint. He recommended using a propane torch to "cook" out all the water. It was amazing to see how much water was trapped in the metal. I was also amazed to see how fast they started to rust after being blasted.

In this picture you can see where the water is being cooked out.

Here's what they looked like after removing all the moisture.

And after removing all the surface rust.

Final paint count was 3 coats vht flat black and 3 coats vht clear. Included pic of the heat stove as well.

I was also able to get the new Holley 80457s carb installed. I chose this model after reading glowing reviews by mayben about how it runs 'almost perfect' right out of the box. I do have some concerns though as the fuel inlet seems to be awfully close to the water neck.

Here are some shots of the carb installed on the manifold.

In these photos you can see how close the inlet is to the water neck. It is only the width of a bic pen away.

I am assuming I can just rotate the inlet up and out of the way of the neck.

 

[RobertC]

Re fuel inlet:

I do not know how the 80457 on my 392 came "out of the box" (10 years ago?).

The mechanic set it up like the stock version -- there is a straight brass fuel fitting (to metal fuel line) where the fitting / tube is on yours.

I assume you can change the fitting on your carb...

The stock 392 / 4bbl has a metal gas line -- from the carb, it makes a 180 degree turn and runs between the thermostat housing / intake / "under the carb" where it connects to the fuel filter.

 

[Tahoedonner]

re fuel inlet:

I do not know how the 80457 on my 392 came "out of the box" (10 years ago?).

The mechanic set it up like the stock version -- there is a straight brass fuel fitting (to metal fuel line) where the fitting / tube is on yours.

I assume you can change the fitting on your carb...

The stock 392 / 4bbl has a metal gas line -- from the carb, it makes a 180 degree turn and runs between the thermostat housing / intake / "under the carb" where it connects to the fuel filter.

Thx Robert. After checking out a couple other set ups I've noticed that all of them have a straight inlet fitting. I will most likely be going that route. The carb did come with some other fittings but I haven't checked them out yet.

 

[Tahoedonner]

Finally got my valve covers back from chrome. They turned out great. Wiring, hoses, power steering pump, fuel pump and smog pump to be installed this week. Here are a couple shots of the engine with most accessories installed.

 

[IHRunner]

Mega props on this build man. I have the upmost respect for the work ur putting into this thing. If u need any parts let me know and I'd be happy to help

 

[Tahoedonner]

mega props on this build man. I have the upmost respect for the work ur putting into this thing. If u need any parts let me know and I'd be happy to help

I greatly appreciate the kind words. This is the first car/truck I've ever built to this extent. I feel that scouts deserve this kind of props cause they are f ing sweet. Just trying to put together a tasteful ride that I, and other Scout enthusiasts, will appreciate.

 

[IHRunner]

Well my grandpa ran an IH dealership. My other grandpa only bought IH products like the farmall line and combines. My father cusses them all out for being old crappy farm rigs but still runs only IH equipment. And the buzz was passed on to me. I own 3 scouts. A loadstar. 2 farmall m's. And some odd equipment. And anyone who is willing to put the work into making an old beater great is bad a** in my books. This will truly be a kickass ride when ur done.

 

[Tahoedonner]

More progress on the engine:

got all, except smog canister, vacuum lines installed. Used braided stainless lines with some black fragola clamps and covers. I never want to touch another stainless steel braided line again!!!!! Had to put in a new egr valve as the old diaphragm wasn't working properly. Also had to replace the high temp thermal vacuum switch because the top nipple on the original "red" one broke off. The one I picked up kicks in at 100 degrees and the original was set for 110 I believe. Can't imagine that this will cause any problems.

Here's a couple shots of the vacuum lines:

passenger side

Passenger side top view

Drivers side top view

I also installed the new fuel pump and pump to carb fuel line. I followed where my original line went but used braided stainless fuel line here instead of the original rotted hard fuel line. I used some line clamps attached in 3 different spots (water neck, water pump, and alternator bracket) to make sure the line would stay secured properly. For now it seems to clear everything just right. I rotated the carb inlet down just a tad to clear the water neck yet still clear all the throttle linkage as well.

Here's a couple pics of the fuel line path:

from fuel pump
it doesn't contact the water tube, yet. Not sure if that would cause any problems but I could easily put a spacer in if it does.

Water pump and pulley area
everything clears great here.

Carb inlet
as of now this is how I'm going to keep it. If I notice any problems I can always switch out to a straight fitting on the carb.

I have also installed the lokar kickdown and throttle bracket on the new Holley carb. I have yet to cut the throttle cable to the proper length but will be doing so after I pull, clean up, and fix all the slop at the pedal bracket.

Here's a couple pics of the installed lokar cables:

Final thing I have gotten finished up is the bypass hose radiator hose. It is a stock bypass hose with black thermal wrap and some gates heat shrink clamps. The radiator hoses will be getting the same treatment.

Here are some pics of the bypass hose:
not all that exciting but I included them nontheless.

 

[Tahoedonner]

Started clearing out the interior of the Scout in preparation of the re-wire that is coming soon. Found some rust on the floor pans but much less then I expected. Considering this truck sat in tahoe in the snow I am pretty pleased and surprised that no floor pans will need replacing. Spent yesterday wire brushing out all rust spots and coated the metal in metal etch to soak overnight. Today I still need to sand down the good paint with some 400 grit sandpaper so that the por 15 will adhere properly.

Here are some photos of before cleaning:

drivers floor pan

Passenger floor pan

Firewall

Here are some after photos:

drivers floor pan

Passenger floor pan

Firewall

Rear bed

This thing is slowly but surely becoming a rust free Scout. Still a long way to go but I would say it is 75% rust free now.

 

[Tahoedonner]

Put por15 on the entire interior of the tub yesterday. It was a total of 2 coats plus a couple touch ups. This will eventually get sound/heat padding and carpet so I wanted as much rust protection as possible. It's the best pictures I could get considering this stuff dries like black glass.

Here are the pics:

rear wheel well areas

Rear bed

Trans tunnel

Drivers and passengers floor pans

Best firewall pic I could capture