Ol' Yellar

[Michael Mayben]

Thanks for the info Robert! I was actually looking for something similar the other day for a different project!

I think this rudimentary lockpins will be fine for another many years once they're re-installed with loctite. It has four equi-distant punch divots to peen the outer edge of the holes over the head of the pin on each side of the axle eye, on each side. While the pins were not rusted in place, it took considerable force to drive em' out. And the welch plugs, once set are insurance also, in addition to containing grease-ooze.

I had to really dig to find the pins in the first place...my initial thoughts were that the kingpins were a press-fit in the axle ends. But I spent quite a bit of time researching kingpin retention methods before this one popped out. I didn't want to waste time digging for the pins through all the muck, but in the end I had no choice.

Here's all the front axle iron laid out. The tie rod ends and their mating balls are in perfect condition, just need cleanup and pre-lube to reassemble once cleaned.

I've tested all four lever-type hydraulic shocks and they are functional also as well as their links. So all this stuff goes somewhere tomorrow, either to the acid dip or the sandblaster, tracy will make that call (of course, the shocks won't be dipped!). Once it's all clean, then I'll retrieve and re-assemble, then the stuff goes back to American spirit for painting and hanging back on the frame.

 

[Michael Mayben]

Here's the 9" clutch cover and disc. Nothing unusual here, looks just like a modern clutch.

This stuff is going to the rebuilder in town probably tomorrow, I want them to give me a second opinion on the pressure plate to make sure I'm not missing anything, but it sure looks good to me.

The flywheel will be dropped at the machine shop just a few blocks away for a re-surface.

The pilot bearing is a standard shielded one side bearing as used in many later IH apps.

 

[Michael Mayben]

Here's the timing grid which in this case is stamped on the flywheel. Since the flywheel can only go back on the crank hub in one position, ya can't "stab" it incorrectly!

The actual stationary timing tick Mark is on the bellhousing adjacent to the starter, has a small drop-down flap/cover to keep critters (and fingers) out of the hole when the motor is runnin'.

 

[Robert Kenney]

Figured you'd feel they were ok and they probably are with the welch plugs also keep'n them in place. If the king pin fits tight in the axle like in a snug slip fit you are probably ok but if the king pin has some wiggle room in the axle the keeper pin can be hammered loose. I've unfortunatly seen it happen on early Ford shit where the owner refused to do a basic recheck of fasteners after building a car. well lal (live and learn) or not and learn

this is common in anglia spindles like is on the f/c. Only set screws clamp the king pin so we check them often and even add a second one for insurance.

Looks like a cool project michael. The roots of it all for damb sure. I'm enjoy'n watch'n the build.

 

[LittleLakeKid]

after looking at the pics following your various tear downs, it is amazing that uncle ed chugged around your neighborhood as well as he did. Amazing. And virtually no leaks on your shop floor. With a higher rear end it seems within reason to anticipate a 55 mph cruising speed. The conversion from mechanical to juice brakes will eliminate the need for me to travel around with a rope tied to bolder stored in the bed!!!

Hey micheals g&m well it looks like mr.g will finally have a vehicle that will keep up with others even if a grappling hook is a needed accessory. But in all seriousness looking at those backing plates couldn't you mount the hydrualic cylinder to it and modify current setup to work as hydrualic system, a couple of holes and a little enginuity can go a long ways. If that doesnt work or rare parts cant be found I donate the hook to the cuase.

 

[RobertC]

the pins on the ends of the counterweights are actually "limit" stops, they engage the two hole on the plate brazed to the driveshaft. Nothing in the advance mechanism is worn or damaged other than someone has jacked with the springs, one of which is making contact with the breaker plate

all this will make sense when ya see the distributor rebuild pics.

Ok, I understand now...

I was putting the distributor back together incorrectly (weights "pin up") -- never done that before

the corvairs have a "pin" on the bottom of the distributor cam that "engages" a hole in the dist plate... Performs the same "function" I would think.

Wonder if the distributor springs have been replaced with newer / "modern" springs?

 

[Michael Mayben]

hey micheals g&m well it looks like mr.g will finally have a vehicle that will keep up with others even if a grappling hook is a needed accessory. But in all seriousness looking at those backing plates couldn't you mount the hydrualic cylinder to it and modify current setup to work as hydrualic system, a couple of holes and a little enginuity can go a long ways. If that doesnt work or rare parts cant be found I donate the hook to the cuase.

I've looked into converting the mechanical brake backing plate to hydraulic extensively! In fact, I laid out one scenario yesterday on a mechanical backing plate but it's no-go. Simply won't work as there is absolutely now way to install a shoe anchor and a hydraulic cylinder in the space provided by the reinforcement.

There are many 12" brake systems that May be adaptable, the major hurdle is the offset in the drum itself (along with the offset built into the backing plate) needed to allow the original wire wheels to mount, these are completely unlike conventional disc wheels. But I do have a very effective workaround for that available. And modding the backing plate centers is certainly not a big deal to allow mounting on the spindles and the rear axle housing flanges.

 

[Michael Mayben]

figured you'd feel they were ok and they probably are with the welch plugs also keep'n them in place. If the king pin fits tight in the axle like in a snug slip fit you are probably ok but if the king pin has some wiggle room in the axle the keeper pin can be hammered loose. I've unfortunatly seen it happen on early Ford shit where the owner refused to do a basic recheck of fasteners after building a car. well lal (live and learn) or not and learn

this is common in anglia spindles like is on the f/c. Only set screws clamp the king pin so we check them often and even add a second one for insurance.

Looks like a cool project michael. The roots of it all for damb sure. I'm enjoy'n watch'n the build.

I too have experienced the "loose kingpin disease" when dealing with similar shit in the old days! That's why I was very surprised to find only a straight lockpin staked in place! Especially when the rest of the suspension stuff is major overkill (and hi-tek!) for the era!!

Once I got the axle ends cleaned better yesterday, I could then see why the welch plugs were a bitch to remove...they had also been staked in place using what appeared to be some tooling in a drop-hammer...obviously not done with a hammer and chisel! So that sez this whole setup is original!! To think that the kingpins/bushings/thrust bearings have survived all this time in perfect condition is truly amazing to me!

Next up project-wise is Todd and I doing the kingpin job on his '66 Ford with the hotted-up fe motor. It's in terrible shape and eatin' tires...so I know it's all rotten. It's really gonna be a bitch to do compared to the c-1!

 

[Michael Mayben]

More bounce-around, gotta git this stuff prepped for return to American spirit for painting asap.

Bumpers on the c-series trucks were an option, along with many other items, including three different size/types of wheels.

This rig has bumpers front and rear, both in excellent condition and just need a re-plate.

The front bumper mount is actually a rudimentary leaf spring. Shit man, this one would pass as a late-model dot/nhtsa "5mph" bumper and it's the right height also!

Obviously the bumper was used to absorb a shock sometime in the past, one of the holes drilled for a frame mounting point cracked through. Then someone laid a patch over one side to piece it together. Not very esthetically pleasing and of course the bumper won't align properly in the end.

Gotta fix this.

Appears the patch was laid on using hi-nickel arc rod, so that will be easy to cut back using the gizz wheel and gas axe.

 

[Michael Mayben]

So I drilled the hole oversize to accept a steel bushing. That bushing will be burned in with mig and left proud for final finish grind.

 

[Michael Mayben]

This is the back of the bumper spring with the area to weld after prep work.

The actual crack has been vee'd out to drop in a mig bead. The bushing will be stitched to the chamfered hole.

Once the back of the spring is securely stitched up, then it'll get flopped and the ugleeazz patch ground off. Then the crack will be vee'd from the front and the welding scheme repeated.

Once both sides are ground flat and the edge contour is re-established, then the hole will be drilled slightly to final size.

These point line up directly with the ends of the frame horns which are boxed construction. One side had a bolt in it, the other side had a stud with nut. The holes in the frame horns are tapped, so we'll use appropriate hardware in this location once I figgr out if a bolt or a stud was oem.

 

[Michael Mayben]

Welded up the bushing and crack on the front side . That allowed me to gizwheel the patch plate off without the spring falling into two parts.

 

[Michael Mayben]

The cracks and bushing are sticthed in on the backside, needs some grind-time spent on dressing everything.

 

[Michael Mayben]

The finished product, rough-primered and ready to go back to American spirit.

Check this off the list.

 

[Michael Mayben]

Mikee just sent me this link...any of ya interested in dealin' in old junkiron, this website is a great history lesson just for the pics of what a real auto parts looked like back in the day!

I can well remember near identical parts houses all over the southwest where I'd hang out while travelin' with pop (the original rodelizrd) as he made sales calls in every propane, hardware, furniture, co-op, and appliance store in any burg that had one. And my favorites were the goodyear stores, western auto, and whites auto where all the stuff they had was laid out in bins mounted on the gondolas...if ya wanted help findin' a whachamafitzit for a '27 studebaker they'd help if ya asked, otherwise it was self-serve and heaven!

kisber enterprises > home

 

[Michael Mayben]

Here's the part I've been putting off as long as I can...separation of the intake and exhaust manifolds. I knew this would be a struggle...so the four studs/nut sets have been soaked in kroil for awhile.

I did not want to use heat on this interface since both parts are cast iron and significantly rotted.

So two of the nuts (the outside ones that run much cooler) came off fairly easy. Both of the inside stud/nuts twisted off of course.

 

[Michael Mayben]

So using various forms of tapered wedges (carefully), some heavy aluminum billet drifts, and a sharpened putty knife, I was able to get a gap to open slightly so I could douche everything in kroil again.

Then I walked off and left it, I know if ya keep fightin' stuff like this you will only end up breaking something irreplaceable!

After about an hour of working on other stuff I went back in and started massaging. I could see that one of the ears had a crack through it and was badly rusted through the crack, but this ear was intact.

So continuing to carefully pry with multiple tools and knockers, I got the gap to open slightly. The best tool I had for this was a brake adjusting spoon for a corvair!

Then while wedging the opposite side, I saw this ear break loose. It ain't a dealbreaker by any means, still got plenty of meat to create a clamp and ya won't be able to see it anyway.

 

[Michael Mayben]

So after 1.5 hours of jackin' with this manifold set, it finally gave up and separated.

Two studs to drill out and replace, some major cleanup, and it'll be ready to bolt back on once I have the gasket set on hand.

The exhaust riser valve is frozen open...I'm not gonna press my luck and try to free it! I'll just stick a spring on it so it looks functional.

 

[Michael Mayben]

While scruuin' with the manifold, I drained the oil..not surprised...the sump is contaminated with gasoline. Either from the rochester carb that was previously installed, or a leaking fuel pump diaphragm,...or most likely both!

Then I pulled the oil pump off.

 

[Michael Mayben]

Here's the oil pump, it's driven from the camshaft and also has an "extension" shaft that runs across the crankcase to drive the distributor tank.