My 14th IH owned, the '73 1110 4WD T-all

[WagnMastr]

So here is my setup. Everything is on my '73 t/all with the exception of the 345 and the Holley carb.
I cannot seem to adjust the throttle cable to allow wot, with or without the kickdown rod in place. I feel like an idiot.
When I adjust the clevis to allow the rod to be in a neutral position, I can't really work the throttle at all. It seems all bound up. Any thoughts based on the pics? Note the throttle cable is not in any particular position here. I don't have the cable locked down.
Should I post a thread in another spot?

 

[Scoutboy74]

The slotted throttle to kickdown linkage arm where it is attached to the throttle linkage needs to ride loosely on the hub of the throttle cable stud. If it is firmly attached, there will be a bind every time.

 

[WagnMastr]

Ok, I have adjusted and locked down the throttle cable so I can press the pedal and obtain wot. However, when I attach the kick down after spinning the clevis to alow me to put in the pin in a neutral position, when I try pushing the pedal again, it barely moves the throttle. Is there something I might need to do down at the tranny end of the kickdown linkage?

 

[Michael Mayben]

ok, I have adjusted and locked down the throttle cable so I can press the pedal and obtain wot. However, when I attach the kick down after spinning the clevis to alow me to put in the pin in a neutral position, when I try pushing the pedal again, it barely moves the throttle. Is there something I might need to do down at the tranny end of the kickdown linkage?

Nothing down at the throttle lever on the tranny other than a "keeper". All adjustment is done topside.

With the throttle at idle, the throttle rod to the trans is closed. As you open the throttle slowly, the throttle lever runs parallel so that at wot the throttle rod on the trans is all the way back. That is the simple way to state this!

 

[Scoutboy74]

Have you tried actuating the kickdown rod manually with it d/c'd from the throttle linkage? Does it travel free and easy? I think your issue lies in what I mentioned in my previous post. Sure, you are now able to achieve wot with the kd rod d/c'd, if it takes 3 tons of force to do it, that dog ain't gonna hunt. You should be able to operate the throttle to wo fairly easily by hand, yet the return spring should have enough tension to snap the throttle black to full close without hesitation.

 

[WagnMastr]

It's all clearly listed in mm and other folks' threads. There can be nothing touching the kickdown rod. Well, in my case there was! When moving backward, the rod lightly touched against a wiring harness. It looked to be clear of it, but I guess it was just enough to screw me up.
It should be good now. I will drive it again in a couple days and see how it up shifts. I am reasonably satisfied that will be the end of that.
In fact, this prompted me to put the little l bracket back below there to attach the wiring harness onto it.

 

[Scoutboy74]

Nuthin' like havin' 'er buttoned up more guuder. It does make a difference.

 

[WagnMastr]

I had a bucking problem when taking it on recent test drives, and thought it mught be tranny related. Turned out to be fuel delivery from the passenger tank. The driver side is so far working out nicely (as did my boat tank in the floor!).
I am taking it in this week to have a guy replace u-joints. The front shaft is rusted and froze up. It is definitely noticable when driving it. I am going to have all of them replaced at once so that won't be an issue again.
I found a mechanic in town who used to work for the gov't in tampa, and their entire fleet was IH's. So, he's worked on about every model IH, every issue, and he is reasonable price-wise. I might even give him mm's 'short list' of things that needed to be done, and just have him take care of the remaining items that I have not already done.
I wanna get this thing roadworthy and trustworthy! Until then, I have been driving my '73 1010 wagonmaster.

 

[WagnMastr]

A couple pics of one of the u-joints. Sorry for the blurry one. They were all in pretty dire straits. Note how out of round it is. As you can guess, it drives like a different vehicle now.

 

[WagnMastr]

I got the a/c up and running. Turns out it wasn’t the blower motor necessarily but the off/low/hi vertical switch on the head. If you jiggled it around, it would kick in the fan, but then blow the fuse because it was a bit burned up inside. I am trying to find a replacement for that switch but until then have a simple toggle switch to power it on.

Also, on the a/c, the paper/wire vent ducts would break up pretty well upon disassembly/reassembly, so I duct taped those suckers up.

On the interior, I am about to buy up some of the factory blue fabric and vinyl to reupholster the front bucket/console seating. I am excited about that. Got a quote of $250 to do the front with me buying the fabric. I think that is a pretty fair price considering the other quotes I got here locally. Plus, I saw the guy’s work and it is pretty good. Also, my wife ok’d me buying carpet and headliner. So, when the seat is out, I will try to coordinate the other interior stuff. I am still playing around with the tailgate handle so that it works properly. Not sure if I will bother painting that cover, or buy the full carpet, which will cover it up. I bought a ¼” rubber bed cover from tractor supply ($65) that is for a chev 8’ bed that fits the entire cargo area pretty darn good with the rear bench down. I’ll keep that regardless of whether I buy the full carpet or not.

Exterior – believe it or not, there is a pretty good match from walmart on the blue paint color in spray cans. Good enough for those touchups where the paint chipped around the side trim. I got the front bumper aligned better and the psgr front qtr pulled below the tank filler that was pushed in a bit. I also used some of the extra wood grain vinyl to patch the area under the filler and misc knicks in it all around the vehicle.

Mechanically – nothing going on right now. Will definitely need to drop my fuel tanks once I get them low enough in fuel to make it easy. I found a place in town that will hot tank ‘em for me. What’s a reasonable price for something like that?

Other than that, I am still pretty happy with things, and, who knows, with this much time and effort into it, maybe I will own it for more than a year! Maybe!

 

[WagnMastr]

I am about to reupholster my front 'buddy' seats in the t'all.
Does anyone have pics they could share that show how the front vinyl and fabric appear on the front bucket/console when the rear seat is this style?
I imagine the front would have similar buttons, etc, like the rear.
Right now the front is green and May have come out of a '71 style.

 

[WagnMastr]

Never mind - just found this pic.

 

[WagnMastr]

Just got the seats back in tonight. Other than the guy using white thread for some unknown reason, I am pretty pleased with the results.
Sure beats the mismatched, tore up green.