My 14th IH owned, the '73 1110 4WD T-all

[WagnMastr]

I just bought the 14th of my IH's, which I have been driving consistenly for th last 19 years. They are awesome vehicles, as you all know. Somehow, though, I can't seem to settle on one and continuously have the wanderlust.
I found my latest one on craigslist in myrtle creek, or. Even though I live in se ga, for some reason it is the 5th of the last 7 to have come from or. It will be heading up to mm's for some exploratory in the next few weeks, and hopefully it is not terminal. The po stated that it ran rough. Michael was kind enough to drive down this week and take a look at it and said he was pretty surprised of the condition. The engine and engine compartment are just about untouced except for plugs and wires. The po bought a nos grille, had the bumpers rechromed, and the 3m wood vinyl applied. The roof was also bedlined. Both tanks work, as does electrical. He said he's never checked out the a/c. And, the front brakes were switched over to disc since the lockheed parts are getting harder to find.
Interior isn't too bad, but is missing the front two panels of headliner, and he swapped out the blue front bench with green low back/console variety. And, it does have the obligatory rust through in a few spots on the rear tailgate sill. I haven't seen one yet that didn't have something going on there.
Overall, it looks like it was worth the $1,000. But, we will soon see!
I will slap on some pics as soon as I can load up some software on my pc to reduce the size of the files. Too high a resolution right now.

 

[WagnMastr]

Here are pics.

 

[RobertC]

Nice t/a...

The power brake booster / brake master cylinder (Scout II?) were changed as part of the front disc brake conversion. At least they do not look like mine on my 73 1210 t/a.

Yours has a smog pump, but I do not see the flame arrestor in the driver's side valve cover. There are "variations" in the "smog setups", but my t/a (CA smog) has a flame arrestor in the driver's side valve cover with a hose running to the air cleaner -- might have michael check if there is an open "hose connection" on the air cleaner. Not a vacuum leak, but it does allow potential dirty air into the carb ("bypasses" the air filter...)

also, there should be a vacuum line running to the "dashpot" on the top of the air cleaner airhorn. Need to check the "running" of the vacuum lines...

 

[WagnMastr]

You are right about the master cylinder. That was replaced when the mechanic did the conversion. Maybe the other hose issues you mentioned around the air cleaner and smog pump have contributed to the rough running of it? Open vacuum lines aren't good!
Hey, thanks for your input. I think it is a good buy for a grand (but, unfortuately, I have not seen it in person)!. My hats off to michael for making the drive down there to check it out for me. I am surprised it was still available on craigslist after having been a month on there before I called.

 

[Michael Mayben]

The carb is an aftermarket Holley swapped on, which is a good thing! The entire pcv system is present and functional, the air cleaner connection is simply not connected in those pics furnished by the seller. And the vacuum/emissions stuff is all present, but running some of the stuff with the aftermarket carb presents challenges that will have to worked through.

The engine is going to need much detailing which malcom is certainly capable of doing after performing such a nice completion of the wagonmaster/olds combo which I'd pronounced only suitable for a parts donor!

All I want to do is verify the valve train lubrication which I'm expecting is impeded based upon the lifter noise in both banks. And no doubt cylinder #1 has a stuck valve due to non-oiling of the rocker shaft, that hole is dead. I ran the motor about 10 minutes and it got no better and no worse. But we wrote the book on diagnosing valve train lubrication issues so this is not gonna be a problem unless the cam bearings are wiped.

The pushrod between the booster and the master cylinder is also butchered, that is another reason the rig has been parked. The shop that actually performed the disc conversion never really completed the job as the owner was basically stranded at some point and had to lay up waiting for the brake work to be completed. The actual spindle/hub/rotor/caliper conversion was done correctly using new parts.

If...it turns out that after some tlc here at binder u., the rig seems to be mechanically sound, it May be actually driven over to the right coast rather than hauled...but I'm not gonna make that a goal! It would definitely need tires in order to be a dd and coast-to-coast cruiser. And...I'm fairly certain the hvac can be brought to life, an essential item for a dd in malcolm's kuntree!

The 727 tranny is a slipper and slow to engage when cold, that should be a simple band adjustment, but until the rig is in the shop here, we don't know.

The seller was extremely forthcoming about the details of this ride, and once he gets back on his feet, he wants us to find him a turbo-diesel sii. The economic crash has really done a number on the seller and in the middle of that, he nearly lost his leg in a work-related accident and is still suffering from that.

All the typical t'all rust issues were addressed by a pro who made the repairs in steel over a two year period. And...a small fortune was spent in bringing this rig to life, the seller is experienced with IH stuff, he completely wore out his previous t-all, a '70 model which was the donor for the front seat assembly.

Malcolm doesn't know this yet (well he does now!), but I May have found a source for repop headliner panels for the t'all!

Also...lyle was talking to the guy about the rig also malcolm while I was driving back home Wednesday nite! When I told him where I'd been Wednesday, he couldn't believe (neither could I) I been down there already as he knew I'd not be interested in the rig for myself at that point since we already have a "new" one! He and linda have two others, one is near identical to that one but it's a very rare '73 with an amc 401 and not a m/y '74!!!

 

[Scoutboy74]

That one is kinda purdy and snaked raht outta my old stompin' grounds. My brother who is a south douglas county mountie sent me a pic of that one a while back whilst he was patrolin' thru town. Mayben, dam gud thang yawl didn't let me an jerry kno you wuz comin' thru. Ida had brother kojak roll out the south county welcome mat for ya real proper-like!

 

[Michael Mayben]

that one is kinda purdy and snaked raht outta my old stompin' grounds. My brother who is a south douglas county mountie sent me a pic of that one a while back whilst he was patrolin' thru town. Mayben, dam gud thang yawl didn't let me an jerry kno you wuz comin' thru. Ida had brother kojak roll out the south county welcome mat for ya real proper-like!

Yore bro...is exactly why I didn't shout out a heads-up to you and jerry! I don't play well with them kinda folks! And shit man, if I'd dropped yore moniker to yore bro, I'da gone straight to the slammer!

But...ya got any simple and cheep idears for haulin' that ride off n. Myrtle rd. To binder u? One way only?? Which onea you fwbeez gotta trailer with good tires and brakes that work?? I thought about a flat tow, but the bumper has to come off for that. I do have a complete flat tow setup that will work on a fullsize ride, but I'm concerned about the tars. In fact, malcom bought one of the early rigs me and skip flat-toad ta tejas a while back.

I forgot malcolm...one of the front locking hubs is toast internally. But I have a near new single unit that is an exact match ready to mount, it's in a baggy on the bench.

 

[Scoutboy74]

Sorry man. No help for ya on the trailer front. Wish we did have one.

 

[Michael Mayben]

sorry man. No help for ya on the trailer front. Wish we did have one.

We gotta limo-ride covered for malcolm's new acquisition...froggy's outa sprangtuckee is gonna handle this tomorrow.

Actually the move ain't gonna cost much more than gazzmonee for me to go down and back with a trailer, and froggy's rollback is t'all-experienced...he hauled chunk when the fuel pump tossed cookies a few weeks back.

Malcolm's new ride shore is gonna make everthang else arount here sure look like shit!

 

[WagnMastr]

Not too sure about that one, mm! Though I haven't had the pleasure of seeing the herd up there, I bet this one will pale in comparison.
Thanks for hooking me up with froggy. He's the one who took care of chunk on the airport trip?

 

[Michael Mayben]

Froggy done come and gone.

Buck drove it onto the rollback but left the key on so the battery was dead when it arrived. Got it charged and the motor fired right off.

I May have some time Saturday to do a closer inspection and will have more info.

I'd forgotten this ride has a high end window tint job, it came out of lost wages originally.

 

[WagnMastr]

Mm,
thanks for looking this t'all over so thoroughly. I have contacted all of the shippers you sent me to get that out of your yard and over to me, but none ssem to want the business enough to call me back. I have also posted a listing on uship.com for a bit more exposure.
If you could email or call me to let me know what I need to give you to shore up the $$ for your time and effort, and also give me your thoughts on that other option I called and left you a vm about, I would certainly love to hear back from you.
I did not buy that rebuilt 345 yet, holding out for a response from you on that option.
Thanks, michael!

 

[WagnMastr]

So, now that the t-all is here, I am gathering up what I need to replace the 392 with the 345 I bought.
I know I need intake manifold gaskets (so I can use the intake and carb off the 392), exhaust manifold gasket and donuts, oil pan gasket (swapping the 392's onto the 345.
I imagine I should also replace motor mounts, hoses, belts, at the same time.
And, I need to remove the manual clutch piece off the flywheel and use the one from the 392/auto tranny.

What else am I missing?

 

[Michael Mayben]

Malcolm and I discussed the project again by phone today, all the ducks will soon start lining up.

Since the donor motor in the pics is a sii pullout, then the pan, dip stick, and oil pump from the 392 will have to be swapped over. And the distributor also.

The flexplate assembly from the 392 will be installed on the 345 along with the starter spacer. I'm going to fix him up with a carb that will drop onto the 345 so the intake doesn't have to be changed.

The power steering pump/mount will need to come over from the 392, but he's gonna loose the a.I.r. Pump in the process. The charcoal canister will plumb right to the fresh carb just as it did in the donor sii.

Seems the 345 crank pulleys gotta hickey in the process, so the pulley stack off the 392 will move over and allow for the a/c compressor to drive.

The po butched the ignition switch but that's an easy fix and the wiring can be corrected once the engine is out of the way. The rest of the work is mostly details and cosmetics which has already been started.

Here's another pic of the loadout...it's going up the ramps under it's own power but it's tired!

 

[WagnMastr]

So, today I got around to pulling this thing out of the garage...
Removed the hood. Drained the oil and antifreeze. Removed the radiator hoses and belts. Removed the radiator, fan, alternator and a/c and alternator bracket. Also, unbolted the exhaust manifolds. On the replacement 345, I've taken off the engine mount brackets, crank pulley and clutch pressure plate assembly, in prep for the swap. I still have to take the oil pan off to swap with the one on the 392, and reposition the oil pump.

It looks like I should take off the front crossmember (where the dog-bone engine mounts bolt on) when I am ready to to pull the engine. Is this a good idea or not necessary?

I am hoping to have the 392 pulled and the built 345 put in no later than nov 13-14. X

mm - are you gonna have that 2210 ready for me by then?

 

[Michael Mayben]

so, today I got around to pulling this thing out of the garage...
Removed the hood. Drained the oil and antifreeze. Removed the radiator hoses and belts. Removed the radiator, fan, alternator and a/c and alternator bracket. Also, unbolted the exhaust manifolds. On the replacement 345, I've taken off the engine mount brackets, crank pulley and clutch pressure plate assembly, in prep for the swap. I still have to take the oil pan off to swap with the one on the 392, and reposition the oil pump.

It looks like I should take off the front crossmember (where the dog-bone engine mounts bolt on) when I am ready to to pull the engine. Is this a good idea or not necessary?

I am hoping to have the 392 pulled and the built 345 put in no later than nov 13-14. X

mm - are you gonna have that 2210 ready for me by then?

Yep, the carb parts are soaking right now.

I haven't tried this...but you May be right. If you can simply unbolt the dogbone crossmember from the frame and raise the engine up and out with it and the bones attached, then all you will do is move the left and right mounting ears over to the 345 and re-attach the entire front assembly and drop in place. It's worth a try to see if doable.

When you bolt the flexplate and hub to the 345, don't forget to slather the crank bolts with permatex #2 or something similar.

 

[WagnMastr]

Thanks, I will do that. Also, along with the check I will probably send you over the a/b fuel tank switch that skip was supposed to send ya when I bought the 'green weenie'. You can use that for a rebuilder, since this t-all has a different switch on it.
I'll probably go down tonight and disconnect the a/c compressor wire, coil wires, starter wires, oil sending unit wire, and then if I am up to it, the other hoses and vacuum lines.
That won't leave me too much to do before getting the hoist over there and unbolting the front crossmember, flywheel housing!
First time by myself, am I missing anything? Btw - I love that rockauto.com site!

Well - I did disconnect all the wiring and harnesses this morning and necessary hoses. Also, the kickdown and throttle cable.

So, now all that is left appears to be the flywheel housing, engine struts and the bolt that holds the auto tranny dipstick and I am ready to yank this greasy sucker outtathere.

 

[WagnMastr]

Hey, I am gonna pull that grungy 392 this weekend and prep up the compartment and 345 for dropping that one in.
Mm, any news on the 2210 that is gonna feed that 345?
Also, I rooted around for threads for what to do with the 345 that has been sitting for a while (not sure just how long, yet) and haven't come up with a clearcut approach for me to follow so I don't screw up the camshaft bearings or anything else, before turning it over the first time. I did find what looked like a working pdf doc on one thread (sure sounds like a whole lot of effort!).
Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

[Michael Mayben]

As for..."a lotta work"...yeah. But it beats hell outta buildin' a fresh motor! Otherwise you are very likely to end up with that motor being just as screwed as the 392!

With the "new to you" 345 on the stand or hangin' from the hoist, simply pull the valve covers and distributor and run the oil pump from a drill. You need to watch both rocker arms flood with oil starting to drain back to the sump. Use this process attached, you don't need to do the whole shebang, just the "pre-lube" part and you need to watch both sides flood with oil, it's not good enough to just spin the oil pump and think you pre-lubed everything. The part about turning the crank/cam to align the oil ports on both the left and right sides is critical!

I will send you a tool to use to spin the oil pump so ya don't have to make one.

The carb will be completed by the end of the day Friday (tomorrow). I've had issues with carb kits for the 22xx mixers this week, the kit I had for your carb was missing both the main gasket and the power valve. When I opened it, I found it had been "previously opened" and then returned to the warehouse I use locally, only the bastards robbed two parts from the kit, then re-taped the box! The guy I work with at the warehouse knows which shop had returned that kit and they will deal with them, in the mean time they had to order in more kits (I keep three here normally), those came in yesterday and I picked 'em up. This warehouse is seeing more and more of this kind of theft as the economy locally worsens, so they will be doing 100% inspection on all "returns" from now on, this point only deals with the trade and local garages, they do not sell to the general public.

The lug nuts, and manifold bolt set is already packed, let me know of any other parts I can put in this c.a.r.e package so we can take advantage of the box!

Which distributor are you going to use?? Since you need to pull the unit in the 345 anyway, determine that in advance and then re-install it correctly while you can watch the rocker arms to determine the compression stroke for #8 cylinder and then stick it in the hole in the right location.

Also...does that 345 intake manifold still have the divorced choke stove and operating rod attached? Is it complete? If not, send me a pic of what is there and I'll round up the rest of the stuff ya need to make it function.

 

[WagnMastr]

I'm gonna use the distributor from the current 392. The 345 was gonna require using the 'gold box'.
Timing should be good here. I hope to remove the engine over the weekend and get to cleaning out the oil that is everywhere (to make way for new oil to be spewed everywhere at a later date)!
The 345 probably won't go in until the following.