Limited disassembly of a 1980 IC 196

I've driven it about 15-20 miles. So far no leaks! I May drive it down to IHPA next week when I make another "parts" run. That would be about a 90 mile round trip and a good opportunity to see how it holds up. If that bracket keeps the adaptor from moving, then it should be fine. Tomorrow I hope to reinstall the crank fire system. The stock ignition isn't all that great and I can tell the difference.
 
Mark pietz said:
I'm sure everyone is tired of this "sub-project" but it is now about 95% done.
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Not me.. :nonod:

nice job. I would guess that an effectiveness test would be easy to do now. If you had an oil temp gauge, drive it with the cooler flow off and let it peak and turn on the flow. I'm interested to see what it does on an auto with the capability to dump some real heat into the oil.

Have you considered drilling the banjo bolt so you could safety wire it? Not air worthy yet... :smilewinkgrin:
 
Wiring the banjo bolt? Yes, I thought of that. I also thought of drilling it through the face and tapping it for an oil temp sensor (how big or small are they?). First, though, is to find a spare bolt. They are no longer available from volvo so a trip to pnp is in order. I hope to score another complete assembly. That exchanger is still available - $250!!!

Regarding monitoring oil temps, if I were to cast another adaptor I'd put a boss in it so I could stick a sensor in the outbound (cooled) flow. But absent that now, I guess the best place to put a sensor is in the rear sump and monitor the temp there?

Awaiting your thoughts on that....
 
I would utilize a surface thermocouple as a test instrument, not a permanent solution. I use a #10 ring lug type for mold temp. Control. In your application, smother the lug with silicone to help mitigate the effect of air on your reading.

Most digital vom/ mm's include a thermometer function. K or j type junctions are used. Some are switchable but most are one or the other.
 
Robert kenney said:
I would utilize a surface thermocouple as a test instrument, not a permanent solution. I use a #10 ring lug type for mold temp. Control. In your application, smother the lug with silicone to help mitigate the effect of air on your reading.

Most digital vom/ mm's include a thermometer function. K or j type junctions are used. Some are switchable but most are one or the other.
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Pleading ignorance here, please explain the technology. So I get one of these ring lugs (??) and bolt it where? And feed its output to what?
 
I believe he means to crimp the thermocouple into a #10 automotive wire ring so it can be screwed to your bolt. Some thermocouples come preassembled with rings too. That way you won't have to weld the ends of the wires together, which can be tricky.
 
So I buy a suitable thermocouple and bolt it to what? The larger of the two bolts on the side of the volvo adaptor actually threads into a boss where a sensor would go to monitor the temperature of the "cooled" returning oil. That boss should reflect changing temps, I think. Then what do I hook the thermocouple to?

I'm not trying to be difficult, it's just that I am not familiar with this way of measuring temps.

I think that in the end, if there is enough meat to that boss, to thread in the temp sensor from an oil temp gauge and just hook it up to a gauge.
 
fdchappie said:
ok perhaps the simplest way is to get one of these http://www.omega.com/temperature/pdf/tc-npt.pdf And just screw it into the oil galley. But then you can buy an off the shelf oil temp gauge and to the same thing. Perhaps you could drill and tap that banjo bolt for 1/8" npt fairly safely.
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Those look trick, but I didn't even go as far as the $$$. Tapping that banjo bolt looks promising, as mentioned earlier. In the next few weeks I hope to make a pnp run and see if any turbobricks are up on the stands.
 
If you don't want to drill any holes, omega the same co I buy from, has many options..

Screw down,
http://www.omega.com/pptst/wt.html

Self adhesive.

http://www.omega.com/pptst/sa1.html

Aircraft cylinder head and egt temperature measurement systems all use the a thermocouple and gauge. The gauges can be mechanical/electric or digital like an insight engine monitor system. The cylinder head tc's are surface mounting either a copper sealing washer with a tc junction imbedded in it and mounded under a spark, or a bayonet connection that pushes on the aluminum itself.

A brief tech explanation,
the tc consists of two dissimilar metal wires that when welded together forming a bead or junction, create a very small electric current that is directly proportional to the temperature of the junction. This current is then measured by a current meter and converted in to f*,c*.

This technology is the same one that allows the old millivolt heater gas valves to operate with no outside power source. The tc is the sole power source that open the gas flow valve.
 
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So I can stick one of these somewhere and read out on a multimeter (undoubtedly some conversion factor to go from volt or ohm or whatever to farenheit). I could easily monitor a temp with and without coolant flow through the exchanger. Cool!

I also looked at the sending unit for the oil temp gauge I am looking at....1/8" thread - smaller than I thought - so that could probably be threaded into that banjo bolt, since all it need do is press the adaptor against the other adaptor - no other stresses since it is supported by the little bracket. Plus, this is permanent and I needed to do that anyway...

Thanks, all. My next opportunity to tinker with this is a week away.
 
Yesterday I went to pnp to look around, and maybe to score a big banjo bolt and a spare coolant/oil exchanger. Hey, $20, why not? There was a guy under a turbo brick pulling a turbo, but he didn't have the right tools and needed to remove what I was looking for. Of course he destroyed the exchanger in the process. So I scored that banjo bolt, at least, and he said there was another brick a few rows over. So we tackled that one. I had the right tools but it had the other style - regular oil to air adaptor. So why not. I scored that, plus the hard lines, for $15 (it was 25% off day). In that same yard there was a 1958 metro that had come to the end of its days. My, those were roomy inside!

Anyway, I drilled and tapped the banjo bolt for a 1/8" pipe fitting, as that's what I read is the threading for the sending unit for the auto meter z-series gauges I'm looking at (I grabbed a 1/8" fitting to test the threads). I cannot see why this won't work - I doubt that bolt head lost any strength in the process.

Edit: I dropped the oilstat and adaptor into my can of carb cleaner and it didn't occur to me if the cleaner would harm the oilstat. Anyone know how those things work and did I hurt it? Edit to edit: found the answer on the turbo bricks site. Got it apart, can't see how that did any damage.

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A little off topic. We are in the path of the trail fire. Evacuating now. Got the Scout moved to safety. Among items to "save" are the turbo, manifold and shields. Leaving tools etc. Otherwise we're bugging out
 
We've done all we can and are waiting to be kicked out if it comes to that but we are hopeful. I was able to load up the Scout with all my hard to find parts. Tools can be replaced but you know what I'm talking about. Foresthill's residential area (Todd valley) is on the edge of the fire most neighbors have already evacuated
 
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Ok, if you don't mind my saying you seem a bit anal (like me), but if you haven't done so yet, clean out the gutters, remove all debris from around the house. Put a hose on each bib around the house and mow everything you can. A lot can be done to save a house before the fire gets there and if it's apparent you've everything you can the firefighters will do everything they can.
 
We did all that!! A neighbor had a fire fighter friend come over. He got on the sheds roof and cleared it while I cleared leaves. Hung tarp over shed entrance. After this danger passes I'll rig up a roof sprinkler setup. No time yesterday
 
Good! Another big thing you can do is close all the blinds and drapes to prevent the contents of the house from combusting from radiant heat. Better is aluminum foil on the windows and best is 3/4" celotex in the windows to reflect the heat back out. My thoughts and prayers are with you.
 
fdchappie said:
stay safe. I expect our dept will be sending out a strike team soon.
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Now that the dust is settling a bit...exactly what is your relationship to fire? There's a calfire section chief on my vanpool (we're all state workers) and I have a vague idea of the structure.
 
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