What do I need to get my Holley "gold box" dizzy to work with my msd 6-btm? Maybe p-tron?next up we have a Holley "gold box" electronic distributor system (IH model 1530 designation).
The gold box label can be a misnomer...depending upon which IH platform these units were installed in, the electronic module could also be either silver or black in color.
The distributor body, shaft, and mechanical advance is essentially the same items as used in the Holley breaker point distributors (cast aluminum body). However, a "reluctor" is present in the electronic distributor which takes the place of the breaker cam component in the points unit.
There were many different part number distributors used throughout all IH applications, the differences are in the mechanical advance curve, and in the vacuum advance canister calibration.
this design is referred to as a "hall effect" trigger and that trigger must be used in conjunction with the properly matched electronic module, the hall effect sensor in the Holley unit will not trigger an aftermarket ignition box such as a mallory 6 series, msd 6 series, etc.
Regarding the distributor in the pic, the vacuum can is dead...a common fault regarding Holley distributors as found on IH stuff in general. New cans are not available any longer, however, a few companies do "rebuild" non-func vacuum cans routinely.
The electronic module is currently available as a new replacement as well as the trigger/sensor.
This is an edit to correct the air gap spec previously posted:
if the trigger is ever removed from the body for either cleaning or replacement, then the "reluctor air gap" must be set using a non-magnetic thickness gauge, that spec is 0.008" +/- 0.002".
The distributor in your pics is a IH/Holley unit that was originally equipped with "curved" breaker points. However, it has had a pertronix #1481 conversion kit installed that eliminates the points and condenser unit.can anyone identify my dist ? It came with my 72 304 motor ... It has the IH logo on the case . I need to get the correct cap for it .
What you have is a very old design pertronix unit. Something produced in the '80 timeframe. No problem with 'em as long as they work, I have two of those myself in Holley distributors removed from ihc bus apps that ran 392 engines. Look at post #3 in this thread and you will see those in clear pics.history:
1974 series 100 pickup with an sv345 and tf727.
Holley 22xx carb (r6676a - 448670*c91 - 0033) soon to be swapped for a 2300.
Starts great - one pump and it fires up. Has typical flat spot off idle - hence the replacement with a 2300.
I have what appears to be an IH/Holley 1510 distributor which has undergone a pertronix 1481 conversion. Two wires exiting the distributor going to the coil.
No points or condenser as seen in the photographs and a working vacuum advance.
The rotor has a bit of scaring on one corner of the contactor and the contacts in the distributor cap have buildup and scarring in the same "corner" location.
what causes this and how do I address it?
You will note that the black bushing which holds the rotor, has a hi-tech zip-tie that seems to be shimming the rotor...
is this a typical IH convention or a po virus to address a lost part? What should be there or how should I treat this?
The coil seems to be the original but at this point, who knows.
would I be better served with a better coil to go with the "pointless" distributor?
Any input from those in the "know" are much appreciated.
what you have is a very old design pertronix unit. Something produced in the '80 timeframe. No problem with 'em as long as they work, I have two of those myself in Holley distributors removed from ihc bus apps that ran 392 engines. Look at post #3 in this thread and you will see those in clear pics.
will the more current version pertronix (real 1481 I assume) be a simple plug-n-play?
The ziptie is some sort of po workaround in order to set the rotor in some kind of position...never seen anything like that in all my years of dealing with this stuff.
if I "go current" on the "pointless" pertronix, is it safe to assume that I will no longer need the nasa zippitie doo dah?
The actual rotor wear along with the corresponding etching on the cap simply means the parts are used well beyond their normal life expectancy. Replace 'em with new parts (easily available) and move on.
roger that! I would like to upgrade the distributor cap for one with male connectors... Which I suppose will require new wires with appropriate ends as well. A current pertronix should address the rotor replacement issue.
Is there a specific male connector cap?
If the coil is functional, there is absolutely no reason to replace it. The correct coil for these applications would have a primary resistance measurement of between 1.5 and 1.8ohms when cold. That means there are thousands of coils out there at a price between $16 and $65 that will fit the bill, I have no problem with running the least expensive coils I can locate. Same coil was also used on all point ignition GM vehicles over the years (v8 engine apps only).
my sentiments exactly. If it ain't broke why break it!
Regarding the carburetion, why not just recondition it instead of replace?
it wasn't running right before I bought it, so it was rebuilt by a Ford mechanic (po). It starts nicely now, but craps out from an idle after reaching temp. I have read through the 22xx thread and there is a lot of "tweaking" that seems to be needed, only to get one to two years of service between builds... Assuming I did the recon right. The 2300 gets really good comments from those that have made the swap, so that was my first inclination, given I need "dependable" not "disposable" right now for my work rig.
I will be posting a carb thread and we can pick it up on the flip side.
Please respond to bills post. I'm very curious about this info.I was told the internal height of the caps and rotor originally on the IH engines is slighty different from the cap and rotor used on the Ford engines. As either cap and rotor will fit on the IH Holley distributor, it is easier to ask for the cap - with 'matching rotor', for the Ford engine. Look for the cap with brass connectors.
if you want your 304 to be different, use the Ford duraspark II cap, rotor and adapter. That is the larger cap with male connectors. Use the 8mm plug wires from a 1979 Scout II that came with the prestolite distributor. Bosch wire set #09758. The thermostat housing will need a bit of grinding to allow the larger cap to fit. Maybe 10 minutes with a dremmel sanding drum. Don't need to remove the housing from the motor.
Nobody (here) can probably tell which distributor by the part number - there are too many and I doubt anyone has all the parts books.just want to make sure what I have read. I believe I have a Holley aluminum distributor.
IH p/n is 360 514 c91. I just want to confirm that so I can then ask what would be the proper pertronix ignition kit would be? 1483 or 1481?