• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

IHC Vehicle Distributor Identification

JohnnyC

Member
next up we have a Holley "gold box" electronic distributor system (IH model 1530 designation).

The gold box label can be a misnomer...depending upon which IH platform these units were installed in, the electronic module could also be either silver or black in color.

The distributor body, shaft, and mechanical advance is essentially the same items as used in the Holley breaker point distributors (cast aluminum body). However, a "reluctor" is present in the electronic distributor which takes the place of the breaker cam component in the points unit.

There were many different part number distributors used throughout all IH applications, the differences are in the mechanical advance curve, and in the vacuum advance canister calibration.

this design is referred to as a "hall effect" trigger and that trigger must be used in conjunction with the properly matched electronic module, the hall effect sensor in the Holley unit will not trigger an aftermarket ignition box such as a mallory 6 series, msd 6 series, etc.
Regarding the distributor in the pic, the vacuum can is dead...a common fault regarding Holley distributors as found on IH stuff in general. New cans are not available any longer, however, a few companies do "rebuild" non-func vacuum cans routinely.

The electronic module is currently available as a new replacement as well as the trigger/sensor.

This is an edit to correct the air gap spec previously posted:

if the trigger is ever removed from the body for either cleaning or replacement, then the "reluctor air gap" must be set using a non-magnetic thickness gauge, that spec is 0.008" +/- 0.002".
What do I need to get my Holley "gold box" dizzy to work with my msd 6-btm? Maybe p-tron?

Also when I hooked up the gold box back up to the distributor it wouldn't work, can't figure out whats wrong with it.
 

Michael Mayben

IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
I personally would not attempt to fire any cd ignition box from a gold box distributor though it can be done.

If...you suspect the actual gold box to now be bad, simply dump it and install a pertronix I inside the distributor itself and use it alone to trigger the msd unit and coil.

The proper pertronix p/n to use for this is ho-181.
 

JohnnyC

Member
That was my guess, I rebuilt my 304 and I gave the msd 6-btm due to the fact that I'm turbo charging it.

I have a prestolite that is electronically triggered and I had read a post that said you could just hookup straight to the small red and white wire, but for some reason I couldn't get it to work.

So I just hooked it up regularly and got to hear it run for the first time, it sounded great.
 

Robert Kenney

Super Moderator
Gunna have to say it's a Holley that has been converted to a pertronix. If you can read the pertronix number you can cross it to the distributer model.
 

Michael Mayben

IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
can anyone identify my dist ? It came with my 72 304 motor ... It has the IH logo on the case . I need to get the correct cap for it .
The distributor in your pics is a IH/Holley unit that was originally equipped with "curved" breaker points. However, it has had a pertronix #1481 conversion kit installed that eliminates the points and condenser unit.

The coded numbers that are on the labels on the actual module really don't mean anything to the consumer, those are production codes used in the actual manufacturing process and don't refer to the actual pertronix part number for the conversion kit.
 
I was told the internal height of the caps and rotor originally on the IH engines is slighty different from the cap and rotor used on the Ford engines. As either cap and rotor will fit on the IH Holley distributor, it is easier to ask for the cap - with 'matching rotor', for the Ford engine. Look for the cap with brass connectors. :icon_wink:
if you want your 304 to be different, use the Ford duraspark II cap, rotor and adapter. That is the larger cap with male connectors. Use the 8mm plug wires from a 1979 Scout II that came with the prestolite distributor. Bosch wire set #09758. The thermostat housing will need a bit of grinding to allow the larger cap to fit. Maybe 10 minutes with a dremmel sanding drum. Don't need to remove the housing from the motor. :yikes:
 
History:

1974 series 100 pickup with an sv345 and tf727.
Holley 22xx carb (r6676a - 448670*c91 - 0033) soon to be swapped for a 2300.

Starts great - one pump and it fires up. Has typical flat spot off idle - hence the replacement with a 2300.

Distributor:

I have what appears to be an IH/Holley 1510 distributor which has undergone a pertronix 1481 conversion. Two wires exiting the distributor going to the coil.

No points or condenser as seen in the photographs and a working vacuum advance.

The rotor has a bit of scaring on one corner of the contactor and the contacts in the distributor cap have buildup and scarring in the same "corner" location.
question:
what causes this and how do I address it?


You will note that the black bushing which holds the rotor, has a hi-tech zip-tie that seems to be shimming the rotor...
questions:
is this a typical IH convention or a po virus to address a lost part? What should be there or how should I treat this?


The coil seems to be the original but at this point, who knows.
question:
would I be better served with a better coil to go with the "pointless" distributor?


Any input from those in the "know" are much appreciated.
 

Attachments

Michael Mayben

IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
history:

1974 series 100 pickup with an sv345 and tf727.
Holley 22xx carb (r6676a - 448670*c91 - 0033) soon to be swapped for a 2300.

Starts great - one pump and it fires up. Has typical flat spot off idle - hence the replacement with a 2300.

Distributor:

I have what appears to be an IH/Holley 1510 distributor which has undergone a pertronix 1481 conversion. Two wires exiting the distributor going to the coil.

No points or condenser as seen in the photographs and a working vacuum advance.

The rotor has a bit of scaring on one corner of the contactor and the contacts in the distributor cap have buildup and scarring in the same "corner" location.
question:
what causes this and how do I address it?


You will note that the black bushing which holds the rotor, has a hi-tech zip-tie that seems to be shimming the rotor...
questions:
is this a typical IH convention or a po virus to address a lost part? What should be there or how should I treat this?


The coil seems to be the original but at this point, who knows.
question:
would I be better served with a better coil to go with the "pointless" distributor?


Any input from those in the "know" are much appreciated.
What you have is a very old design pertronix unit. Something produced in the '80 timeframe. No problem with 'em as long as they work, I have two of those myself in Holley distributors removed from ihc bus apps that ran 392 engines. Look at post #3 in this thread and you will see those in clear pics.

The ziptie is some sort of po workaround in order to set the rotor in some kind of position...never seen anything like that in all my years of dealing with this stuff.

The actual rotor wear along with the corresponding etching on the cap simply means the parts are used well beyond their normal life expectancy. Replace 'em with new parts (easily available) and move on.

If the coil is functional, there is absolutely no reason to replace it. The correct coil for these applications would have a primary resistance measurement of between 1.5 and 1.8ohms when cold. That means there are thousands of coils out there at a price between $16 and $65 that will fit the bill, I have no problem with running the least expensive coils I can locate. Same coil was also used on all point ignition GM vehicles over the years (v8 engine apps only).

Regarding the carburetion, why not just recondition it instead of replace?
 
Michael,

thanks for the reply.

My comments and questions below.

what you have is a very old design pertronix unit. Something produced in the '80 timeframe. No problem with 'em as long as they work, I have two of those myself in Holley distributors removed from ihc bus apps that ran 392 engines. Look at post #3 in this thread and you will see those in clear pics.
will the more current version pertronix (real 1481 I assume) be a simple plug-n-play?

The ziptie is some sort of po workaround in order to set the rotor in some kind of position...never seen anything like that in all my years of dealing with this stuff.
if I "go current" on the "pointless" pertronix, is it safe to assume that I will no longer need the nasa zippitie doo dah?

The actual rotor wear along with the corresponding etching on the cap simply means the parts are used well beyond their normal life expectancy. Replace 'em with new parts (easily available) and move on.
roger that! I would like to upgrade the distributor cap for one with male connectors... Which I suppose will require new wires with appropriate ends as well. A current pertronix should address the rotor replacement issue.

Is there a specific male connector cap?


If the coil is functional, there is absolutely no reason to replace it. The correct coil for these applications would have a primary resistance measurement of between 1.5 and 1.8ohms when cold. That means there are thousands of coils out there at a price between $16 and $65 that will fit the bill, I have no problem with running the least expensive coils I can locate. Same coil was also used on all point ignition GM vehicles over the years (v8 engine apps only).
my sentiments exactly. If it ain't broke why break it!

Regarding the carburetion, why not just recondition it instead of replace?
it wasn't running right before I bought it, so it was rebuilt by a Ford mechanic (po). It starts nicely now, but craps out from an idle after reaching temp. I have read through the 22xx thread and there is a lot of "tweaking" that seems to be needed, only to get one to two years of service between builds... Assuming I did the recon right. The 2300 gets really good comments from those that have made the swap, so that was my first inclination, given I need "dependable" not "disposable" right now for my work rig.

I will be posting a carb thread and we can pick it up on the flip side.

Thanks michael!
 

Michael Mayben

IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Replacing the current p-tron 1481 with the current version will allow the distributor to operate in exactly the same manner, no other changes needed. I believe the current version you have has an issue with the top of the shaft (thus the tiewrap) where the rotor lines up but can't tell from the pictures.

For a "male" terminal cap, you can use the common prestoloite cap for the IH distributor, but that will require some mods with the dremel and sometimes they can be difficult to align properly. You must also use the companion prestolite rotor for the prestolite cap.

I use the msd cap, rotor and plug wire keeper for the Ford duraspark (early version) on some of my installs, those take a good bit of work with a bench grinder to make 'em fit but the work can't be seen once installed. I also use the msd "streetfire" plug wires with those caps, but any female termination plug cable set will also work. All my personal Holley distributor setups I run have the msd exterior parts along with a p-tron 1481, some sort of 6-series msd or mallory box, and a companion low primary resistance coil from msd, that is a current state-of-the-art system that is easily achievable.

I have extensive experience with the Holley 2300 conversion, I've been doing those for aver 10 years. But...now that I've "learned" the sub-routines for the Holley 22xx, I have no issues with making those live a long life if properly assembled. But then...I do many of those each year.
 

ONE800

New member
I was told the internal height of the caps and rotor originally on the IH engines is slighty different from the cap and rotor used on the Ford engines. As either cap and rotor will fit on the IH Holley distributor, it is easier to ask for the cap - with 'matching rotor', for the Ford engine. Look for the cap with brass connectors. :icon_wink:
if you want your 304 to be different, use the Ford duraspark II cap, rotor and adapter. That is the larger cap with male connectors. Use the 8mm plug wires from a 1979 Scout II that came with the prestolite distributor. Bosch wire set #09758. The thermostat housing will need a bit of grinding to allow the larger cap to fit. Maybe 10 minutes with a dremmel sanding drum. Don't need to remove the housing from the motor. :yikes:
Please respond to bills post. I'm very curious about this info.

Thanks
 
Well, what do you need? I can show pictures if it will help. I made the conversion 3 years ago. Seems to be working fine. After I completed the conversion, I was told it couldn't be done because the thermostat housing would be in the way. I just laughed and replied, it's too late now, it allready done!:icon_lol:
 

jtc3407

New member
Just want to make sure what I have read. I believe I have a Holley aluminum distributor.
IH p/n is 360 514 c91. I just want to confirm that so I can then ask what would be the proper pertronix ignition kit would be? 1483 or 1481?

Thanks
 

RobertC

Member
just want to make sure what I have read. I believe I have a Holley aluminum distributor.
IH p/n is 360 514 c91. I just want to confirm that so I can then ask what would be the proper pertronix ignition kit would be? 1483 or 1481?

Thanks
Nobody (here) can probably tell which distributor by the part number - there are too many and I doubt anyone has all the parts books.

You need to supply more info - year of vehicle; type of vehicle; and engine (of course, there is a small chance that the motor or even distributor has been swapped.)

or take the distributor cap (rotor and dust cover if still there) off and compare yours to the pictures in this thread.

If it is a "basic" points Holley 1510 distributor (60's - early 70's); then, pertronix 1481 is correct.

If it is an "electronic trigger" distributor (gold box, prestolite, ???); then, pertronix 1483 is correct.

You can probably double check the part numbers on the pertronix web site.

Forgot to add -- there are newer versions of pertronix (pertronix II?)- not sure of the part numbers (1481a and 1483a ???). You can "burn out" the "old" versions (1481 and 1483) by leaving the ignition key in the "on" position without the engine running.
 
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