Holley 23XX Series Modular Carb Stuff

Never heard of "turbo lag" regarding a non-turbo engine.

These carbs are dirt simple to rebuild. But like any other mechanical device they require much attention to detail and a lot of internal work if they have no performed properly in the past.

I have no doubt that the metering block on this carb is internally corroded and plugged. The holes are going to have to be opened for cleaning using a strong soak solution, then a heavy internal scrubbing using mechanical devices.

And...it's entirely possible that the gasket between the throttle body and the main body is not the correct version.

These carbs are either right or they are wrong as far as performance goes. No inbetween. And they will operate for about 2>3 years in daily service on today's bullshit e10 fuel before being affected by the alcohol, that normally shows up as either an overweight nitrophyl float (fuel absorption) or actual internal corrosion.

Also, your distributor vacuum feed is not correct, those distributors need to draw off the "ported" vacuum source, not full manifold vacuum. But that is not the issue you have right now.
 
Hi michael,

"turbo lag"... You know the .. The same sort of balking you get when the accelerator pump isn't up to snuff...
Step on the throttle... Major hesitation , then she goes.

While waiting for the kit , I am going to dismantle the carb and give it a soak... Do you think three days will do it ?..

The guy I bought this rig from owned and operated an independent auto repair in redlands, calif down by san berdoo. Some of the mickey mouse stuff he did to the rest of the rig such as, hooking up a 4 cyl tach, jury rigging an inside hood release, removing the tank switching valve and installing a Chevy unit, switching from a dual exhaust to a single, installing four shocks intended for a mid 50's caddy... Installing a mickey mouse manual choke ( which I removed) I have no doubt he was into this carb and very possible the gaskets were incorrect.
When I first overhauled it back in '95, I simply matched the existing gaskets... No doubt I,too,put in the wrong ones.

Other folks have used and enjoyed the 2300 carb, though I wouldn't mind upgrading it, I just don't like to get beat... I want to make this one work correctly and learn something in the process.

I'll check the numbers on the main jets and see if I can find a number on the power valve.

Is the vacuum spiggot on the front of the base of the carb supposed to be plugged ? Seems to me this is the wrong vac source.

Just for yucks , I checked the points which appear to be in good shape. They were adjusted to .018 so I readjusted them to .016. Plugs are 5 years old but perhaps 1000 miles oon them. The plug wires are new last year.

I have a couple other 2300 carbs in boxes, but I don't think they are 6386 units. One appears to be for an American motors vehicle form the 60's and looks to be nos the other (s) have been around.

Thanls michael, hope all is well up your way.

Btw, is trevor still around in deadford ?
 
bohemian said:
the mains are 51's.

Apart and soaking.
Click to expand...

#51 main jet is correct for that list carburetor.

Simply "soaking" it in any type of carburetor dip is not going to fix this issue. The metering block must have all it's plugged holes opened up and the passages and metering holes cleaned up same as when new. That is what real carburetor overhaul is about.

Surging as you describe is caused by lack of liquid fuel to mix with air. And that can be from both the idle circuits and the main circuits.

The lack of throttle response is an accelerator pump issue based upon condition of the shooter, condition of the check valve, condition of the accel pump element and check, and the condition of the accel pump actuator lever.

Vacuum connections are very dependent for the engine system on which the carb was designed for. You can certainly block any non-used manifold vacuum connection and see what happens.

A new 2300 (list 7448) will not outperform the carb you now have once it's properly repaired and tuned. And virtually any 275>350cfm Holley 2v carb can be used on that engine once the main jetting is worked out.

Trevor and the rest of the fat whites are still located in medford.
 
Thanks for the replies michael.

What do you suggest I use to clean the holes and passages in the metering block... .010 steel guitar string maybe ?

The other carbs I have are:

list 6380..................52 mains
6394(1) ?...........52 mains
2415.................didn't open it up.

The accelerator pump had good squirt when looking down the
barrels and manually pulling on the throttle.

Thanks
 
Still here sweatin' to the oldies in my richard simmons shorty-shorts.:eek6: we must have had some dialogue at some point, but I'm blanking out on who you are at the moment.
 
Trevor,

I'm over in beautiful dowtown williams..
The wannabeerastafariantrustfundbabydopegrower center of the universe.

We exchanged some e-mails about 18 months 2 years ago.. Then life took a left turn and decided I was a candidate for a
medical 10 pound hammer. I'm better, but the 1010 has not done well while I was on sabatical.

At that time I was debating whether to keep the rig or off it...and approaching wanting to square away the carb , and
if I was going to keep it, what to do with it.
Complete refurb, hot rod it, just a good ol' clean street runner or
somewhere in between.. Of course advice has ranged from what the hell ya doin' with a brand x, to "go for it".

Meantime I just want to get this rig running well, and hopefully better than before. I drove it from so cal here to williams back in '96 and it never missed a lick... Except for 11 miles to the gallon and always believing that it could be better.

So with some help from brother mayben and the forum, I hope to get the unit squared away and take it to another level...
Maybe even get it to a point where it's my daily driver. With only 64k original, lot of life left in it.

I un-mickey-moused most of the creative repair work and mods done by the previous owner... I bought it for $1100 back in '95 and have put another $2500 in it... Don't mind putting more into it... Certainly a better rig than any other American rig I've owned.

This is my 3rd int'l.. I had a '51 a '59 and now this truck.

My other current arsenal is a '92 s-10 2wd, a '96 dodge ram 1500 2wd, a 2000 fourrunner, and a 2008 highlander 4wd.
My favorite is the 1010.

Gotta luv dat yuma yella.

Later

Jeff
 
Smoke 'em if ya got 'em. I do remember you now. Sorry about your medical issues. Life has a way of dishing out some shizz samiches from time to time. My most recent one came in the form of simultaneous betrayal and job loss. From that episode I learned that the risk vs. Reward factor in office relationships doesn't quite pencil out these days.

Now back to pertinent tech...you May be able to coax a couple more precious mpg's out of this rig with a squared away carb, but you shouldn't expect much more than that. Poor aerodynamics, substantial vehicle weight, and a 60's-era, workhorse power plant are all conspiring against decent fuel economy. That's just the way it is.

You mentioned that a carb kit is on the way. Hopefully its a Holley brand kit. Using any other parts brand for this carb is setting yourself up for defeat before you begin.

As you begin this process, snap pics of your dismantled carb parts with a digi-cam (if so equipped) and post them up for us to ogle.

The threads in this subsection will be a great help to you on this job. Mayben can also walk you through just about any situation that might arise. If that's not enough, bring the pile southward where the entire facilities of the fat white boys syndicate will be at your disposal.
 
I did order a genuine Holley kit... The number suggested by michael.

I took some photos with my digital camera, pre , during and posts disassembly. I have no clue as to how to post photos.

I'll pull the carb out of the sauce tomorrow night... Kit supposed to be here Wednesday... I'll pick it up oin the afternoon with the intent of finall cleaning and a beginning of assembly on Thursday, that presuming I don't need some other parts not included in the kit.

I think I am due west of you about 40 minutes. Thanks for the offer of as meet -up. Might take you up on that.

Sorry about the job situation. Id di the corporate thing for many years... I learned two things.. Trust no one. Your best asset is a current resume.

Best of luck and thanks for getting back to me.
 
bohemian said:
I did order a genuine Holley kit... The number suggested by michael.
:icon_up:

I took some photos with my digital camera, pre , during and posts disassembly. I have no clue as to how to post photos.
look for the paperclip icon in the header above the message dialogue window. Clicking it allows you to browse and select images.

I'll pull the carb out of the sauce tomorrow night... Kit supposed to be here Wednesday... I'll pick it up oin the afternoon with the intent of finall cleaning and a beginning of assembly on Thursday, that presuming I don't need some other parts not included in the kit.
:icon_up:

I think I am due west of you about 40 minutes. Thanks for the offer of as meet -up. Might take you up on that.
you are correct, sir.

Sorry about the job situation. Id di the corporate thing for many years... I learned two things.. Trust no one. Your best asset is a current resume.
troof

Best of luck and thanks for getting back to me.
:yesnod:
Click to expand...
...
 
All righty then:

everything cleaned and in the process of re-assembly.
I have a question about the needle and seat.

The new one supplied in the kit is the type with the thin lock nut
and a large center srew. Mine has no center screw and a thick lock nut. To use the new one would require a different type of
float as is in one of my other 2300 carbs.

My needle and seat appear to be good. I am thinking abut taking the "o" ring off the new needle and seat and slipping it on my old needle and seat and installing it. Does this seem like the thing to do, or should I swap all the bits to the other type of float or order a new correct needle and seat.. Or run with what I have?

The 4 bolts/screws that hold the float on had small fibre type
washers, the new ones supplied ar nylon, I used them.

Other than that I am close to finished.

What or how should I make and initial setting for the choke ?

Is there anything you can think of that I should double check or any questions you have about what I might have done that could be a problem?

Thanks.
 
The oem-type Holley needle/seat combo is the only one to use. All other units are aftermarket junk and I toss that type in the metal scrap. That is why I do not use any modular kit other than Holley. Simply buy a normal Holley adjustment nut and lock screw and set the fuel level correctly.

All floats for the Holley modular carbs with side-hung bowls are the same configuration. They are available in both nitrophyl plastic and brass. I use only the brass floats unless it's an emergency and all I have are nitrophyl. There used to be Holley "duracon" floats used also, those were hollow plastic. But those were discontinued nearly 10 years ago though sometimes they are still seen on the wall in some shops. I don't use those, they will not hold up to e10 fuel at all.

Did you totally drill out and clean the metering block? If not, you really haven't accomplished anything.

The sealing washers for the fuel bowl screws are a "special" version of nylon meant for that purpose. The screws seen in the aftermarket stuff are not nylon (they are pcv as far as I know) and again, will not hold up to e10. These seals changed from fiber to nylon about four years ago in regular Holley production.

Set the hot air choke cap to the "center" Mark and give it a try.
 
Hi michael, its me again. Starting on a new project. My wife likes my Scout so much that she wanted her own. So now we have a new project to get running. Im starting with the carb. Its a Holley 2300. My first time getting into one of these.

3982236-c91
list- 4574

I came across a thread with a part number supposedly from the old Holley website. 3-396. Of course the part number and list number dont jive at napa.com. What kit do you think should I try that will have the correct gaskets??

Its a 70 Scout with a 304.

Daily driving is at 5000ft. Where would you suggest starting with main jets and the power valve?

Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks-henry
 
Hi michael,

"totally drill out".....

I ran a fender .009 high e string through every orifice and blew it all out with compressed air.

After the carb cleaner bath for 2 days... I soaked the carb in warm water then blew it all out and ran the wire through it then compressed air.. Then another water bath and air.

The only thing I can see that could be "drilled" out is the soft metal bung and I wasn't sure I should do that.

I took a brass float from one of my other carbs... Used the thin lock nut and the center screw, both with new fibre washers. I also used the new needle and seat.

The instructions say that the brass float type is not adjustable except for bending the tab. For all the other types of floats they say to set the float at parallel with the body when upside down as a start point. For the brass they say set it to the correct height using the enclosed plastic measuring thing... Nowhere do they give the spec for a dry setting .. The picture shows the brass float type upside down and draws some lines indicating that there shoud be a measurement... None given..
As it is.. It is parallel with the body..
I understand adjusting to just below the widow with the carb installed and wet.. But no starting measurement. What gives. Why the stupid little ruler.?

Also, under the phillips head domed and counter sunk screw for the accelerator pump nozzles, what is the washer material ? Is it fibre or metal? The old one is not in evidence ( I lost it ?)
the other carbs have this thin tapered washer but I do not want to remove them for fear of damaging them. I looked in the kit, nothing except one tapered metal washer looks right...
Is this washer metal, and if so, how does it seal.?

Meantime I removed and cleaned the battery box and repainted it. As well as the battery hold down.

I also stripped and refinished the air cleaner lid.

Giving the carb a rest tonight. Back at it tomorrow.

Thanks again michael.
 
Last edited:
Is there supposed to be a gasket on each side of the heat shield.?

When I removed my carb there was no gasket under the heat shield..only between the carb and the heat shield.

Can the black plastic float be used with the oem needle and seat ?

Can the brass flaot be used with the after market needle and seat ?

Thanks
 
Ok...

The good :

back together and running well. Idle is good, no lean surge, plenty of smooth power.

The bad:

the stove pipe tp the choke broke at the lower end by the manifold. I can see where it is crystallized and had been leaking, now snapped. Cold starts May be a problem.

My options are to install a manual choke, which I have but appears to be a bit of a cobbed up deal, was on the vehicle when I bought it... Or I could buy a new manual choke set up.

Second option, try to removed the old unit from the manifold and get a new one.

Third option is to converto electric choke.. No clue as to how to do this.

I will also try to fine tune the carb.. But not sure of the proceedure.

Then, straighten out the vacuuum source to the distributor. As it is: it comes from the front of the base of the carb and "t's" into the vac source form the block on the back passenger side.
I suspect this is incorrect.

But for now, back runnung well.

Thanks for the encouragement and the help.
 
The current Holley kits provide two small metallic washers for the accel pump shooter. One goes under the screw head, the other goes under the shooter. Those coated with a neoprene surface for sealing and must be installed or the shooter will not discharge it's volume correctly into the venturis.

I set floats on side-hung bowl to a "level" position for starting, then adjust with the engine running as needed so that the fuel level is just below the bottom thread form on the port.

If the engine was originally equipped with a Holley 2300, it would have had only a head dam gasket between the carb and the manifold, no other gasket. If you use a new heat dam gasket, then no base gasket is used. If the old heat dam is used and not torn anywhere, then I use a thin gasket on each side for the seal. We have new heat dam gaskets in stock in the online store.

With the oem needle/seat combo, either float May be used and the fuel level setting is the same.

For the damaged choke housing, you should be able to find one on a boneyard carb. I personally don't have any spares right now myself. The housing is the only one used with that carb and is the same for the electric choke system as for the hot air choke.
 
albuq. Henry said:
hi michael, its me again. Starting on a new project. My wife likes my Scout so much that she wanted her own. So now we have a new project to get running. Im starting with the carb. Its a Holley 2300. My first time getting into one of these.

3982236-c91
list- 4574

I came across a thread with a part number supposedly from the old Holley website. 3-396. Of course the part number and list number dont jive at napa.com. What kit do you think should I try that will have the correct gaskets??

Its a 70 Scout with a 304.

Daily driving is at 5000ft. Where would you suggest starting with main jets and the power valve?

Any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks-henry
Click to expand...

Good news!

The same carb kit is used on the older/oem Holley 2300 as for the latest version. Those are blister packed as a universal item and normally hanging on the wall in the parts house. That would be a Holley p/n 37-1543. Simply pick the base gasket in the kit that closely matches what you have now, you will most likely need to punch in one or two additional holes, using the old gasket as a template.

The oem main jets are most likely either #51 or #53. Once you get it apart, look at both jets and post the numbers. For your altitude, I'd start with #49 jets and a [power valve of #65 (that should be what is in the Holley kit).
 
Thanks for the reply. Going to the store with the number sure makes it easier..... When I tried o riley's they asked if it was two barral , three of em showed up on the screen, and then they said, one is 19.99 one is 30 something and the other is 45.00 which one do you want... Lol

there are 49's in there right now so I will see what that does. Thanks..
 
albuq. Henry said:
thanks for the reply. Going to the store with the number sure makes it easier..... When I tried o riley's they asked if it was two barral , three of em showed up on the screen, and then they said, one is 19.99 one is 30 something and the other is 45.00 which one do you want... Lol

there are 49's in there right now so I will see what that does. Thanks..
Click to expand...

Yep, since the o'reilly takeover of the former stores in the western u>s over the last year, they are doing a much better job of actually supplying many parts. They carry the Holley-supply kits on the wall at all locations I've used in several states, and they usually have the walker kits back in the back. But the walker kits are not correct (fully complete) most of the time and they do not use the proper needle/seat assembly.
 
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