Holley 23XX Series Modular Carb Stuff
- Thread starter Michael Mayben
- Start date
Erik VanRenselaar
Member
Is the Holley spring-damped "off road" needle & seat assembly (#6-513) worth it? I installed one in my #7448 carb years ago because the theory (of the spring damping) made sense, but it is difficult to know if it truely helps. The assembly currently sells for $21.95 at summit racing.
kyleandhisIH
Member
Anyone who has experience with these modular holleys May be able to answer this question.
I have been running a 2300 on my Scout II since ordering it from ihon, but I apparently cracked the fuel inlet boss on the bowl itself. Since I'd rather have no crack I've been looking up bowls.
Judging by my sidehung, adjustable-needle style I already have, any similar setup should be able to use my current guts if I am able to purchase a good casting. My only question is a part number. Will a #134-101 bowl swap over to a 70's 2300?
The parts look identical. Thanks in advance.
I have been running a 2300 on my Scout II since ordering it from ihon, but I apparently cracked the fuel inlet boss on the bowl itself. Since I'd rather have no crack I've been looking up bowls.
Judging by my sidehung, adjustable-needle style I already have, any similar setup should be able to use my current guts if I am able to purchase a good casting. My only question is a part number. Will a #134-101 bowl swap over to a 70's 2300?
The parts look identical. Thanks in advance.
Bill Bennett
Member
Would a fuel bowl from a 4bbl Holley carb work?
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Your list number should have 4 numerals. That kit number should get the job done. Remember to compare the new gaskets to the old for correctness.
You are right. I got the magnifying glass out. That a is really a 4 with a scratch.
So the list is 6894.
Michael,
I am to the point where I need to decide on my carb. I have a 1970 800a with a 304. It came with a 2977. I also parted a rusty donor sr2 with an auto choke, 4595. What carb should I stick with? I like the manual choke, because that is what I am set up for. I have a remanufactured 304 I am getting ready to put back in and I am not sure what direction to go. I read somewhere that you liked the 7448.
Do you sell them? 7448
are mine worth anything?
Should I just rebuild mine? They are complete and in good shape, they have just sat for awhile.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Jesse
I am to the point where I need to decide on my carb. I have a 1970 800a with a 304. It came with a 2977. I also parted a rusty donor sr2 with an auto choke, 4595. What carb should I stick with? I like the manual choke, because that is what I am set up for. I have a remanufactured 304 I am getting ready to put back in and I am not sure what direction to go. I read somewhere that you liked the 7448.
Do you sell them? 7448
are mine worth anything?
Should I just rebuild mine? They are complete and in good shape, they have just sat for awhile.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Jesse
Scoutboy74
Moderator
As far as I know michael is still away attending to family matters, so I'll weigh in on your question. Yes, ihon does sell the 0-7448 and they set it up with manual or auto choke as per your preference. Dandy carb, but your wallet will be a little lighter. The older list number 2300 models are pretty straight forward to rebuild. This tech subsection has plenty of info and pictures to help you out. The list number 2977 was originally installed on 266 engines, but no doubt a number of them have migrated to 304's and I imagine are doing a fine job. The other list number corresponds to a carb that would have come on a 1970 model 304. Its probably 6 of one, half dozen of the other. I think either carb properly cleaned, kitted and tuned would work well for you. With a gun stuck to my head to pick one or the other or else, I'd service the 4595. The Holley kit 37-1543 is what you use for either carb. It makes for a good learning experience. And afterwards, if you're not happy with the results, you haven't lost much.
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I concur with trevor. I've kitted numerous 2300's and I rarely pay attention to the list number for other than choke and throttle lash ups. I'm sure there's some minor differences in their calibrations, but none to notice on my engines. In fact I put the same size carburetor as I have on the 266(275 cfm) on to the 345 in my truck and that truck drives the smoothest since I first bought it. Decent 12 to 13 mpg too.
Research the threads, stickies in particular, and get a feel for the work you're heading in to. It doesn't hurt to go a bit small, in fact I think carbs work better the more they flow at wider throttle angles.
Auto or manual chokes is a personal preference, as long as you remember to back the manual one off.
Research the threads, stickies in particular, and get a feel for the work you're heading in to. It doesn't hurt to go a bit small, in fact I think carbs work better the more they flow at wider throttle angles.
Auto or manual chokes is a personal preference, as long as you remember to back the manual one off.
Bill Bennett
Member
With the original smaller 275 cfm 2300 carb, I found the 304 in my 68 Travelall could not pull down to '0' manifold vacuum when pulling a hill. Maybe down to 1/2# vacuum. Like having a restrictor plate. Changed to the larger 350 cfm side hung 2300 and can now get the '0' vacuum with the throttle still 1/4" to 3/8" from the floor. Did seem to help a bit on climbing the same grade. As for fuel mileage, I drove up to the rmihr from los angeles last year and round trip got 15.1 mpg. Main jets were #61, power valve was a #4.5. Might also mention the carb gets a 'cool air supply', through ducting from the front of the truck into a much larger air filter housing. The devil is in the details!
Bill
Bill
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Hi bill,
you're right on the 275 being restrictive at upper rpm ranges but the 2 bbl's are a compromise unlike a 4 bbl.
By design the carb needs to sustain high velocities at low rpm and fuul throttle so as it does not fall on its face as the venturies loose there fuel signle. I assume that at the low rpm bands and high loading like up a hill requiring max torque there is a sweet spot where more throttle will actually cause power to fall off with the 350 cfm. This would not bother me but for the general population I am sure IH found it unacceptable.
The 275 probably leaves 3-4% on the table at max hp as compared to the 350 and more as compared to a 4bbl.
Anyhoo glad you are happy.
you're right on the 275 being restrictive at upper rpm ranges but the 2 bbl's are a compromise unlike a 4 bbl.
By design the carb needs to sustain high velocities at low rpm and fuul throttle so as it does not fall on its face as the venturies loose there fuel signle. I assume that at the low rpm bands and high loading like up a hill requiring max torque there is a sweet spot where more throttle will actually cause power to fall off with the 350 cfm. This would not bother me but for the general population I am sure IH found it unacceptable.
The 275 probably leaves 3-4% on the table at max hp as compared to the 350 and more as compared to a 4bbl.
Anyhoo glad you are happy.
junkscouts
New member
I just read through this whole thread, thanks for all the great info, but I have some questions:
1. What’s the little baffle for on the metering block vent (see the picture from the guy in the czech republic)? I just rebuilt a 2300 with one of these and I’ve never seen one before. Are they all missing on the other ones I rebuilt, or did some come with them and some not?
2. Is there something bad about the nitrophyl floats? Should they always be changed for brass? Do they soak up the new gas?
3. Which fuel inlet fitting is correct for the side hung 2300? I’m looking for the Holley part number for the brass fitting that screws into the float bowl and then has the metal fuel line screwed into that. I have a couple carbs that are missing them. Also is the little filter screen that fits into that inlet fitting on the bowl side available?
4. What’s the part number for the thick 4 barrel base gasket for the Holley 4150 or 4160? (sorry not 2300 related, but thought I would throw it in)
5. Anyone have any cheap aftermarket air cleaner suggestions? I have several trucks without them and the mice love to store their nuts in my carbs. Last trip through the junk yards turned up nothing.
Thanks,
sven
1. What’s the little baffle for on the metering block vent (see the picture from the guy in the czech republic)? I just rebuilt a 2300 with one of these and I’ve never seen one before. Are they all missing on the other ones I rebuilt, or did some come with them and some not?
2. Is there something bad about the nitrophyl floats? Should they always be changed for brass? Do they soak up the new gas?
3. Which fuel inlet fitting is correct for the side hung 2300? I’m looking for the Holley part number for the brass fitting that screws into the float bowl and then has the metal fuel line screwed into that. I have a couple carbs that are missing them. Also is the little filter screen that fits into that inlet fitting on the bowl side available?
4. What’s the part number for the thick 4 barrel base gasket for the Holley 4150 or 4160? (sorry not 2300 related, but thought I would throw it in)
5. Anyone have any cheap aftermarket air cleaner suggestions? I have several trucks without them and the mice love to store their nuts in my carbs. Last trip through the junk yards turned up nothing.
Thanks,
sven
Scoutboy74
Moderator
That list number corresponds with an original design Holley 2300 with side hung fuel float. The correct service kit is Holley 37-1543.
harrywt
Member
Hi guys,
just got me a new Scout and I need to rebuild the carb. I didn't get numbers but I have attached three pics. The carb says Ford motorcraft on it so I May have a po virus here. I'm pretty sure that it's a 2300 though. Anyway, what rebuild kit do I need?
Thanks,
harry
just got me a new Scout and I need to rebuild the carb. I didn't get numbers but I have attached three pics. The carb says Ford motorcraft on it so I May have a po virus here. I'm pretty sure that it's a 2300 though. Anyway, what rebuild kit do I need?
Thanks,
harry
