Holley 22XX Series Carb Stuff

The jet size you have is just fine for your operational elevation. But in the wells below the jets you must remove any and all contamination which May be lodged there.

The power valve actuator should be correct for the "short" power valve that I see in the picture also. That is...as long as it actually operates. It should be removed and both the operating piston and the hole made sterile. It should have a spring inside the operating piston.

Make certain that you install a accelerator pump check valve in it's receptacle.

Regarding those two brass tubes, be sure that every tiny hole is clean and flows
 
Thanks so much for all this invaluable info......that should do me for now, but I'm sure I'll be back for something else at some point.....I s'pose before I can get it tuned in, I need to make sure the ignition system is working up to snuff......

Thanks again, all your help is really appreciated......
 
Hey guys, I have a '79 Scout II 304, stick, I think 2245 carb but hopefully you can tell in the pics???
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Anyway I recently did a complete painless wiring harness on it but with being in the military and deploying a couple times it ended up setting there for almost a year! Now that its back together & street legal im trying to get it trail worthy. It idles great and when I hit the gas it sounds great but while driving it starts to bog down like its starving and only gets worse as I drive it and 4th is a nightmare and sometimes backfires..but still idles great! I just replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor before I started the wiring. Recently put a new heat riser and fuel filter, even tried a seafoam flush but still stutters.. Any suggestions? The more you dumb it down the better.. Hahah!
 
I just wanted to double check on that power valve, only because the info sheet in the carb kit shows my power valve piston as a 2245 version, and it shows a "tall" power valve to match it in a 2245, but it shows a "short" power valve for the 2210 model....

Also,the accelerator pump check valve, is that under the accelerator pump assembly?
 
Your carb is actually a Holley 2300, oem-type design. It has an external fuel bowl vent that is supposed to be connected to a charcoal canister (the front fuel bowl tube).

It also has a later model manual choke system but it appears to be tied wide open with a ziptie, not a good thing at all! It needs a true manual choke cable rigged on and properly adjusted. A choke system is just as important as any other carburetor system and should always be used except on a true, offroad operated drag race vehicle.

Your operational failure indicates to me that the fuel bowl level is too low. You should remove the brass plug from the passenger side and then adjust the fuel level in the bowl with the engine running. The fuel level should be about 1/8" below the bottom of the thread in the sight hole with the vehicle sitting level.

Our Holley 2300 carb thread is located here:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/carb-tech/512-Holley-23xx-series-modular-carb-stuff.html
 
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Hahah, yeah I ziptied it cause the manual choke cable was missing and after it warmed up it would kill itself. So letting it sit for that long would cause this? Just wondering because before it ran great! Thanks for the info..
 
Having trouble finding the full choke cable assembly but I found these electric choke conversion kits Holley 45-223 & 45-224. Just wondering if one of these might work or if you have a current part number? Thanks
 
I can't answer your conversion to electric question, but finding a choke cable for that ought to be easier than falling out of bed. Any parts store, even the cheeseballs that are more intent on pushing slim jim beef jerky and air fresheners still sell 'em. That carb is grungy dude! There is obvious corrosion on the outside. One can only imagine what the guts look like. Looks like eveidence of raw fuel leakage too. If you immerse yourself in that 2300 thread that michael attached, you will find information in there on the appropriate Holley brand refresh kit. I'd say yours is a prime candidate for that service especially if it has not been done in recent memory.
 
With me not knowing anything about carbs, what would be easier; buying a new 2300 or rebuilding the one I have? Remember I know nothing about carbs..
 
dirtyleg said:
having trouble finding the full choke cable assembly but I found these electric choke conversion kits Holley 45-223 & 45-224. Just wondering if one of these might work or if you have a current part number? Thanks
Click to expand...

Only the hly 45-223 electric choke conversion set is correct for your carburetor.

Any auto parts will have a universal choke cable kit on hand for around $12 and up.

Again, any carburetor must have a functional choke system to operate properly.

In this sub-forum, we have more information regarding these carburetors than will be found anywhere else on the 'net. Spend some time reading through each thread and you will learn what needs to be done and how to do it.

Just as scoutboy mentioned, that carb needs to be rebuilt now in order to keep this rig going. Typical service life for a carb today used in daily service is around two years.
 
Hi, just wanted to say thank you to all of you on this thread. The information that I gained from you and your problems was the key to me figuring out the solution to mine.
I have a 1978 Scout II, with a 345 engine and a 727 automatic transmission. I was having a problem with the engine surging while holding a consistent throttle and had a rough idle. After reading many hours and a lot of threads, I went through the ignition system ( changed to a pertronix unit, new distributor cap, new wires, new plugs, checked timing). That improved the problem a little bit, but was still surging.
Using this thread I identified my carburetor as a 2210 model (r7309-1a). Took it apart, rebuilt it with a napa kit after soaking, cleaning and blowing every port out with compressed air, I reinstalled it on the engine. The results were great, however, still had a slight surge while driving at 30 to 40 mph. So I went back to the thread and found a possible fix. I took the air horn back off and made sure the power valve accuator was free and not sticking at all, same with the power valve, readjusted the float so more fuel would be in the bowl, and then made sure that the screws holding the air horn down were really tight. Also made sure the acc. Pump was adjusted so the slightest touch would send fuel into the venture.
By doing those last 4 things the truck runs and drives like a dream. The engine is set at 13* btdc, pulls 18" of vacuum and cylinder compression in all 8 are around 150, idle speed is 700 rpm in neutral.
I wouldn't have been able to figure the problem out as soon as I did without this forum. So thank you for that, and I hope I can contribute something positive and provide information that someone else can use to figure out their problem.
Tom
 
Hey everybody I am rebuilding a Holley 22xx, (a 2245 I believe) as I was going through dis-assembly I found that I am missing my pump discharge needle. Were there some carbs that didn't have them? And where can I get a new one? It is off of a 1978 sii with a 304(not California emissions) tf727
 
I recently rebuilt a Holley 2210, which sits on a 345 in my 1976 Scout II. The rebuild went fine, but I forgot to take a picture of how the two external springs connect. I'm guessing one connects to the throttle cable, but I'm at a loss as to where the other connects. Does anyone have a picture of where these springs attach?
 
son_of_tydeus said:
I recently rebuilt a Holley 2210, which sits on a 345 in my 1976 Scout II. The rebuild went fine, but I forgot to take a picture of how the two external springs connect. I'm guessing one connects to the throttle cable, but I'm at a loss as to where the other connects. Does anyone have a picture of where these springs attach?
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Are you referring to the two throttle return springs?

If so, you can go back one page to page 16 of this thread, post #238, which has two photos of the throttle return springs.

One spring should be larger diameter than the other, the small spring goes inside the larger spring for redundancy in case one spring breaks.
 
1975ih200 said:
are you referring to the two throttle return springs?

If so, you can go back one page to page 16 of this thread, post #238, which has two photos of the throttle return springs.

One spring should be larger diameter than the other, the small spring goes inside the larger spring for redundancy in case one spring breaks.
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Thanks for the information, and post #238 was just what I needed. But when I attached both springs to the throttle, it was under so much tension that it wouldn't return at all. Is there a way to adjust that somehow? When I attached just one of the springs to see if I could get it running after the re-build, everything seemed to be working fine. But I would rather not just have that one spring on there if two are really needed.
 
One or both of your springs likely has too stiff of a spring rate. Ideally, the redundancy of one spring inside another is a worthwhile safety measure, but a solo spring in superb condition will get the job done.
 
Greetings from texas.... Working on a 75 Scout II with a 345, Holley 2210. Looking for the vacuum idle dash pot... Anyone know where I might find one? Picture attached...thanks for any help... Jamesl
 

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Thanks for the info fdchappie (and the quick reply!)... I was rebuilding the carb and found the diaphragm blown...I'll leave it off and plug the line...cheers!
 
I have a 1973 IH 1010 v8 pick up truck with 2210c Holley carb. I'm mid-rebuild on it. I have a question about a throttle solenoid dashpot.

When I purchased my float from carburetor specialists, the sales guy mentioned that my carb requires a throttle solenoid dashpot and so I purchased it without doing much research because he said that was the last one in stock. When I received the part, I realized that my carb did not even have this part on it at all. I have no idea where I'd even plug in the solenoid valve to. Anyway, do I need this part for my carb re-build or should I try returning it?

Thanks for your advice!
 
Hey y'all. Having some issues with my 2210c on my scout ii with a 345.
part # 444561-C91
list # 6674-1

No issues with idling, but it bogs down if I give it 3/4 - full throttle. I just opened it up and am going to order new main jets, size 52. Would changing out the power valve be a wise decision, or not have much of an impact? The current size of my power valve is 2.5.

I have already moved the linkage of the accel pump to the highest setting and that has made a slight improvement.

Thoughts?
 
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