Holley 22XX Series Carb Stuff

I know this kit has both power valves but I have not opened it to check the gaskets. I did print off your comparison photo just so I have a pic of the correct one. I will check tomorrow.
Thanks
 
Hey michael; I opened up the kit this am and here are a few pics of what I got. I was wrong about getting both power valves but I think I got the right one. It also looks like I got the right gasket.
dscf1306.jpg

dscf1307.jpg

dscf1308.jpg

Sorry about the pics out of focus, I guess I was a little shaky a 5:00am:gringrin:
 
Outstanding! Ya got the right stuff for the 2210c!

And a bonus! Ya got the "heat dam" base gasket included! That part was actually developed for IH engine apps of this carb, the fel-pro p/n for a replacement is 60677.

The other thick base gasket is for the chrysler application of the 2210c.

Thanks for putting this up, now I know the hygrade 929a is the right kit for the 2210c, and I have several new power valves for the 2245 already so I'll be good to go either way from now on! The 928c is only for the chrysler variation!

My compliments to your local parts folks for finding the correct number!
 
Yes the parts store did good! I could probably post the spec sheet with the kit if you think it would be useful. I could scan it as a pic but I am not sure how big it would be in the forum post?
 
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I have attached the spec/ instructions that came with the hygrade kit.
 

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Ok ron, the instructions are the same as included in all the other "brand name" kits...I won't get into how that happens!

No real secrets in 'em, just follow the "adjustment" matrix, I've found that to be accurate for the IH apps. Sometimes the accel pump "slot" May need to be changed, you do whatever makes it work best, not what any "spec" sez!

And you've already seen, yours May/May not have all the "extra" add-ons that are shown in the exploded view, just be concerned with your carb!

One tip...tighten the main body-to-throttle body screws so tight you are on the verge of stripping! That is the most essential "secret" to doing these and will make this rebuild last for an extended period of time.

Also, the power valve actuator piston should be removed for cleaning/polishing and inspection, make sure the bore it rides in is spotless! When re-assembled it must run smoothly in and out with no hint of "drag" or "chatter".

Other than that, all parts must be clean as in sterile if possible! Regarding these mixers, it's a fine line between great and crap! Moreso than any other carb I work with!
 
Thanks for your post and advice, it takes alot of time and knowledge to write a post like this. I should get it rebuilt this week and I have every confidence it will go well.
Thanks
 
Hey michael; the ol girl purrrrs like a kitten! I got the 2210c rebuild and installed tonight, man did it make a difference.
Ron
 
Outstanding ron!!!

Anutha 2210 saved from the recycler!

Make sure the ignition system is all up to snuff before making your final idle mixture and curb idle speed adjustments. And if you are tuning with a shop-type vacuum gauge, post up the numbers also, that adds to the knowledge base for what constitutes "typical" manifold vacuum levels of this stuff from around the country!

The 22xx series mixers are very difficult to make play nicely due to their "throwaway" design nature and the fact that so much of the internal circuits and components simply rot away over time due to heat/moisture/neglect.

Nice job!
 
Here's the numbers that I got:
7* advanced
29* dwell
17" of vacuum
650 rpms at idle
seems to run really well, no hesitation, good power and no pinging.
The only vacuum hooked up is the choke pull off and vacuum advance. I May try connecting up egr and the temp sensors at a later date.
Let me know if there is some other number(s) you might want. Keep in mind I think my v gauge and dwell/rpm meter are just about as old as my 74 Scout:gringrin:
ron mc
 
Michael, how about a picture that will identify the vacuum ports on a 2210c? I have been reading everything I can find on this topic and most posts refer to the name of the vacuum port instead of its location. Which for me is kind of confusing. Maybe thats more a vacuum topic than a 2210c one.
Just a suggestion.
 
Good numbers/data ron! Exactly what we need!

I'll work up the vacuum port id asap, good idear! But since there are several variations, and depends upon "which" IH platform we're talkin', it ain't gonna be "simple".

Currently I have a really fresh 2210 that just came in from Jeff that needs to be run onna "stock" rig (Scout II around '74/'75 vintage) for verification. I have a near-virgin, '73 sii here now that I converted to a 2300 centerhung but the owner wanted it kept "stock" appearing (except for the carb of course), so that one will be used for Jeff's carb validation. And I'll use it for a basis to begin a new thread in this forum regarding "vacuum connections/routing"...how's that sound?

And...just two days ago, I brought in an absolute virgin '79 sii traveler/345/thermoquad (drove it 200 miles home), which we can also use. I envision posting an actual vacuum connection diagram and then showing the system on the actual vehicle. This rig is discussed in this thread now:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/I-h-s-t-o/687-Mike-n-Mike-Monday-report.html

Stand by, we'll get there!
 
That sounds great michael! If there's anything I can do to help let me know. I am pretty good with this computer stuff and probably a decent shade tree mechanic.:gringrin: (on my own stuff) now when you go to newer tech stuff you will get nothing here:gringrin:
 
This thread is excellent used it as I rebuilt my 2210 . Its doin good but still has a slight dead spot right off idle.thinking it could possibly be in the accelerator pump but not real sure . Any suggestions would be graetly appreciated thanx brad
 
Brad, two things I would check: did you set your idle/mixer screws with an rpm meter attached? It was the first time I had used one for this purpose, works great. Also as you mentioned check the accel pump adjustment. In my experiance these two things have caused hesitation in my scouts. You should be able to see gas squirt down the carb, both sides, the instant you move the accel. I am sure michael will chime in if there is something else.
Ron
 
Ron, after doing the adjustments with the tach meter and vac gauge , I still have a little hesitation with truck in gear [auto tranny] . I think after further in spection the accelerator pump rod has been shade treed too many times . I have the rod in slot 2 at this time . truck only stumbles when you have lite presure on the pedal . when you step on it it seems fine im thinkin its fine tuning on the pump but not real sure . here;s my numbers after tuning 20 in.vac 10 degrees timing 30 on the dwell at 700 rpms in neutral any thoughts would be appreciated
 
Move the accel pump actuator rod to the slot that will allow a pump shot "quicker/sooner". These superpig rigs must have a real healthy pump shot off idle to make 'em launch.

And ya May need to "straighten" the bend in the rod also, do whatever ya need to do to make it launch clean. Pay no attention to specs. After doing that and testing if it's still not quite like ya want it, then richen the idle mixtures ever so slightly and try again.

The numbers look real good...especially the vacuum! I'm impressed!
 
Toepainter, you might try a different slot theres nothing magic about the slot #, I know I was not able to set the pump travel according to spec. I had to play with it until I got the most travel on the accel pump and maybe just the slightest pressure on the pump at idle meaning, make sure there is no space or play with the pump rod/pump. In other words the slightest movement on the accel moves the pump. I am sure michael will have the answer.
The light pressure on the pedal/stumble May not be the pump. Does the truck ping under load? 10* might be a touch to much.
Does this stumble happen in gear or neutral? The accel pump works when you are depressing the pedal not when it is held in one place. I am sure you are at temp when you are tuning? Choke all the way open? I forgot to check mine after I rebuilt my carb, the choke was staying shut a little too long.
What do you thing michael?
 
Thanks for the quick reply guys. Yea I thought the numbers were good too. No pinging tried the lower setting on the timing but she seems to be sluggish at any lower advance the motor is real tight. 150 to 158 lbs per cylinder new intake and valley gaskets. Will try another slot and I'll just keep playin with her. Its way better than it used to be. I dont want to change to a 2300, even though they are easier to work with but the challenge makes it worth it . Whats so good is being the guy with the stone age Scout that seems to be the recovery unit for all the guys who talk smack on the mountain.I just tell em I'll see you on the way off probably chained to my rear end ha ha ha
 
Up to about 3000ft., 304 or 345 seems to like up to 12* btdc base timing if the distributor is in first class condition with little runout on the advance unit and limited endplay on the drive end. That's on "regular" grade fuel, these are low compression motors and I refuse to run anything other than regular.

A distributor with excessive endplay allows timing to go to hell throughout the rpm range! Impossible to hold a "tight" timing curve from idle to 2300rpm at which point all advance is "in". If ya use a "dialback" timing light, ya can easily see a sloppee distributor! We'll be discussing that soon over in the ignition forum.

So I'd power time it up to the point of detonation and then just back off a touch until detonation is eliminated. Then shoot it and see whatcha got for reference.

As ya go up in altitude (say over 3kft.), then it can tolerate more advance but it's not worth scruuin' with unless ya spend all yore time or live up there.

And as mentioned, make sure the choke pulls off all the way and is held "off" by the vacuum pull-off diaphragm. To adjust that, simply pinch that link where it makes the deep "u" bend, to create more pull on the choke actuator. Of course, that assumes your choke pull-off unit is working properly and will hold a vacuum!
 
Interesting michael I was not aware the timing was affected with alltiude. I always thought it was just the jets in the carb. Out here in the flatlands just never had to deal with it. Learned something new.
 
Ok guys carb is starting to give me the want to throw it as far as possible in favor of a single barrel 1951 model zenith. Lol went wheeling this weekend, pretty much got rid of the stumble off idle. Workin with the accel pump has really helped. The specs are bs. As you said. Now the issue seems to be heat transfer and possibly float level. Put her on a hill and she wants to flood out and die. My spec sheet calls for 3/16 float level should I try 1/2 or greater . Also sometimes getting the infamous Holley pop .which in turn blows off the vac caps. I made sure the power valve actuator was clean ,polished and worked freely. Any suggestions ? Thanks brad
 
Brad, it sound like your making progress. This one is probably out of my leage, I will have to let michael answer this prob. Just how steep was the hill? There is a mod for an off road 1904. But I am not sure this is a carb problem. I did follow the specs for float settings but I have not done that much off roading, yet. Maybe the needle valve or float is sticking.
Sorry not much help.
 
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