Holley 22XX Series Carb Stuff

For definitive repair/overhaul information and an in-depth description of the various carburetor circuits regarding the 22xx Holley mixer series, I'd highly recommend obtaining a copy of the following publication:

"holly service guide no. 1", holly p/n 36-70.

This publication is the primary Holley service publication for the 1920, 1940, 1945, 2210, 2245, 5200, and 5210 carburetors. It May be ordered directly from the Holley website and with shipping will cost under $7.50!

Holley performance carburetors, fuel injection, and fuel pumps
 
Great post michael!!! I just bought a kit for my 2210, mine is slightly different than the one you pictured. Mine does not have the lever operated bowl vent but I do have the hic port. The number is a r7309 a so it should be a 2210. Anyway your post will be read over and over until I get time to rebuild mine.
Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge.
Ron
 
Thank you ron!

Your Holley list 7309a should also carry an IH p/n on it above the list number of 465663-c91. This is actually a 2210c series carb. Shows to be oem on '74>'75 304, all platform applications, all transmissions.

Post the rebuild kit part number and brand, maybe I can verify that you have all parts needed in that kit! If not, then I May have some extra stuff in the stash you might need!

Most of the time, I'm now having to buy two different kits locally in order to come up with all parts needed for a correct 22xx build...bummer! I have located an outstanding Holley parts source (old time speed shop in salem, or) who most likely has everything in bulk form that is needed, I'll visit him on aug. 7 with a shopping list and see what he can supply for the 22xx series!

Unfortunately, it's a major pita to drill down deep into the list number sequences and determine exactly how any one unit was supplied on which engine/platform due to all the "emissions" variations running rampant back at that point in time. Many "CA-spec" vehicles were also sold into 49 states markets, and 49 state vehicles were sold into California and either not outfitted to CA-spec and simply paid a major tax/"penalty" for doing so, or were converted to CA-spec with a dealer-install conversion. So 35+ years later, there is no telling what ya May actually have! But that really doesn't matter as long as ya can identify correctly which system ya have when trying to find parts!

Between tech information that ihon has on file, and my collection of related technical information, we can usually do a pretty good job of identifying any Holley product, though it May take some trial and error to home in due to all the workarounds performed over the years. Just like on axles as we previously discussed!
 
Here's the info off the cab:
r7309 a
465683 c91
0777
hygrade kit #929a
this is on a 74 Scout 345
I am going to follow the info you have given and the specs that come with the kit, I don't trust whats in the carb now after reading you post.
Thanks
 
The hygrade 929a number is a new one for me ron! That May be the secret ingredient if it has the correct main body-to-throttle body gasket and the correct power valve!

The hygrade 928c kits I use in order to get both power valves, does not have the correct main body gasket/heat insulator. The primary app for that kit is a 70's 360/400 chrysler.

Pay close attention to your gaskets as outlined above!

If the existing main body gasket shows no signs of deterioration, torn lamination, or distortion, then it May be re-used if necessary. Not the best practice by any means...but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do!

Keep us up to speed on what ya find to add to the knowledge base here!
 
I know this kit has both power valves but I have not opened it to check the gaskets. I did print off your comparison photo just so I have a pic of the correct one. I will check tomorrow.
Thanks
 
Hey michael; I opened up the kit this am and here are a few pics of what I got. I was wrong about getting both power valves but I think I got the right one. It also looks like I got the right gasket.
dscf1306.jpg

dscf1307.jpg

dscf1308.jpg

Sorry about the pics out of focus, I guess I was a little shaky a 5:00am:gringrin:
 
Outstanding! Ya got the right stuff for the 2210c!

And a bonus! Ya got the "heat dam" base gasket included! That part was actually developed for IH engine apps of this carb, the fel-pro p/n for a replacement is 60677.

The other thick base gasket is for the chrysler application of the 2210c.

Thanks for putting this up, now I know the hygrade 929a is the right kit for the 2210c, and I have several new power valves for the 2245 already so I'll be good to go either way from now on! The 928c is only for the chrysler variation!

My compliments to your local parts folks for finding the correct number!
 
Yes the parts store did good! I could probably post the spec sheet with the kit if you think it would be useful. I could scan it as a pic but I am not sure how big it would be in the forum post?
 
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I have attached the spec/ instructions that came with the hygrade kit.
 

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Ok ron, the instructions are the same as included in all the other "brand name" kits...I won't get into how that happens!

No real secrets in 'em, just follow the "adjustment" matrix, I've found that to be accurate for the IH apps. Sometimes the accel pump "slot" May need to be changed, you do whatever makes it work best, not what any "spec" sez!

And you've already seen, yours May/May not have all the "extra" add-ons that are shown in the exploded view, just be concerned with your carb!

One tip...tighten the main body-to-throttle body screws so tight you are on the verge of stripping! That is the most essential "secret" to doing these and will make this rebuild last for an extended period of time.

Also, the power valve actuator piston should be removed for cleaning/polishing and inspection, make sure the bore it rides in is spotless! When re-assembled it must run smoothly in and out with no hint of "drag" or "chatter".

Other than that, all parts must be clean as in sterile if possible! Regarding these mixers, it's a fine line between great and crap! Moreso than any other carb I work with!
 
Thanks for your post and advice, it takes alot of time and knowledge to write a post like this. I should get it rebuilt this week and I have every confidence it will go well.
Thanks
 
Hey michael; the ol girl purrrrs like a kitten! I got the 2210c rebuild and installed tonight, man did it make a difference.
Ron
 
Outstanding ron!!!

Anutha 2210 saved from the recycler!

Make sure the ignition system is all up to snuff before making your final idle mixture and curb idle speed adjustments. And if you are tuning with a shop-type vacuum gauge, post up the numbers also, that adds to the knowledge base for what constitutes "typical" manifold vacuum levels of this stuff from around the country!

The 22xx series mixers are very difficult to make play nicely due to their "throwaway" design nature and the fact that so much of the internal circuits and components simply rot away over time due to heat/moisture/neglect.

Nice job!
 
Here's the numbers that I got:
7* advanced
29* dwell
17" of vacuum
650 rpms at idle
seems to run really well, no hesitation, good power and no pinging.
The only vacuum hooked up is the choke pull off and vacuum advance. I May try connecting up egr and the temp sensors at a later date.
Let me know if there is some other number(s) you might want. Keep in mind I think my v gauge and dwell/rpm meter are just about as old as my 74 Scout:gringrin:
ron mc
 
Michael, how about a picture that will identify the vacuum ports on a 2210c? I have been reading everything I can find on this topic and most posts refer to the name of the vacuum port instead of its location. Which for me is kind of confusing. Maybe thats more a vacuum topic than a 2210c one.
Just a suggestion.
 
Good numbers/data ron! Exactly what we need!

I'll work up the vacuum port id asap, good idear! But since there are several variations, and depends upon "which" IH platform we're talkin', it ain't gonna be "simple".

Currently I have a really fresh 2210 that just came in from Jeff that needs to be run onna "stock" rig (Scout II around '74/'75 vintage) for verification. I have a near-virgin, '73 sii here now that I converted to a 2300 centerhung but the owner wanted it kept "stock" appearing (except for the carb of course), so that one will be used for Jeff's carb validation. And I'll use it for a basis to begin a new thread in this forum regarding "vacuum connections/routing"...how's that sound?

And...just two days ago, I brought in an absolute virgin '79 sii traveler/345/thermoquad (drove it 200 miles home), which we can also use. I envision posting an actual vacuum connection diagram and then showing the system on the actual vehicle. This rig is discussed in this thread now:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/I-h-s-t-o/687-Mike-n-Mike-Monday-report.html

Stand by, we'll get there!
 
That sounds great michael! If there's anything I can do to help let me know. I am pretty good with this computer stuff and probably a decent shade tree mechanic.:gringrin: (on my own stuff) now when you go to newer tech stuff you will get nothing here:gringrin:
 
This thread is excellent used it as I rebuilt my 2210 . Its doin good but still has a slight dead spot right off idle.thinking it could possibly be in the accelerator pump but not real sure . Any suggestions would be graetly appreciated thanx brad
 
Brad, two things I would check: did you set your idle/mixer screws with an rpm meter attached? It was the first time I had used one for this purpose, works great. Also as you mentioned check the accel pump adjustment. In my experiance these two things have caused hesitation in my scouts. You should be able to see gas squirt down the carb, both sides, the instant you move the accel. I am sure michael will chime in if there is something else.
Ron
 
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