Dana/Spicer Transfer Case Guapo

Hi lou, I'm not too hardcore so probably not going to be doing any front wheel digs. I'm basically going for easier shifting, and a little more flexibility, like having 2 low without having to unlock the hubs. If I don't like the twins, the original will go right back in. Not running humongous tires, so not too worried about breaking things.
 
We're on the same page greg. My primary interest is in a 2 low rear as you said. I'd also like to make shifting from low to high with my automatic trans easier. Oft times I find it easier to shut the engine off and shift as I roll slowly. Otherwise I always seem to either rattle teeth in the transfer case or against the parking pawl. I'll keep and eye on your project. I like your detail.
 
For the d20.

( if you are going to do the entire overhaul, you will want a "master" kit which includes a new intermediate shaft...for that you need to specify which diameter shaft the case has in it now. That is easily "measured" by looking at the end of the shaft now where it protrudes from the case and taking a nominal od. Since that one if original is a very early unit, it could have a 1-1/8" intermediate shaft. Otherwise it will be 1-1/4" so it's a pretty easy eyeball deal. )

I have a 1972 and the output shafts where the yokes are have 10 splines. I believe I measured the right spot of the intermediate shaft where I can see it on the front of the case. It measured 1-3/16" if it was the correct spot.

I probably don't have the right spot.

Can someone produce a picture of the actual transfer case showing where I am supposed to measure?

Thank you
 
Just an fyi:
looking back over the this post, I noticed that grease was used for assembly. While that is not a big issue, the issue is grease contains soap and could cause foaming. I had this issue with my case and found that I just needed to change the oil. My issue was the oil was coming out the vent tube more then it should.
 
That's not really grease, it's redline assembly lube made for engines, had some laying around so decided to use it. Also just to add fuel to the what lube to use in the d300 transfer case fire, attached the specs from the 1980 Scout Dana 300 manual sae20-30. Sounds like engine oil to me.
 

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All good stuff. Not sure whats in assy lube. I know Jeff uses something that was red is color. Well at least saw something he used years ago. I talked with the guy that put my NP205 reduction box together and he said he used grease.

I just posted it just in case you had vent tube puking issues. Knowing the fix was just a an oil change away.
 
Have question about the t19 bull gear supplied with Dana 300 tera low kit. The splined hub on terra low bull gear is .070" shorter than the stock Dana 300 splined gear hub. When installed on the t19 output shaft, the stock gear hub extends past the splines on the output shaft, so when the retaining nut and washer are tightened onto the output shaft, the gear is compressed onto the shaft. The tera low bull gear hub is shorter, so it looks like the retaining washer and nut will hit the splines on the t19 output shaft before the gear is compressed. Has anyone dealt with this, or have any input/advice?
 

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Haven't noticed that before unless it is purposely done to move the gear inline with the rest of the teralo gears. Regardless the way it is will affect the way the rear output is engaged. I would say a phone call to the manufacturer would clear things up. Possibly all that is needed will be a spacer behind the teralo bull gear to get things lined up.
 
It's been awhile since I have seen it, but I have actually seen a semi thick washer get placed between the bull gear and nut that holds it in place onto the output shaft of trans. The id was just large enough to slide over and clear the splines of output shaft, and just thick enough to clear them.

As Jeff mentioned, call up the manufacturer and see what they say.
 
I like scooter's idea, but think that washer would be pretty hard to find, and the tips of the retaining nut would barely touch the id of the washer. Mine has a thick washer, but the hole fits the threaded end of the shaft. Am going with Jeff's idea. Ordered some .020"' thick 1.375" id hardened shaft spacers from mcmaster. Will install one between the back of the bull gear and the long spacer that the rear seal rides on. This is kind of no mans land between the tranny and the transfer case, but the IH d20 and d300 service manuals have cross sections that show the bull gears being a little longer than the splined section of the t19 output shafts, leaving a small gap as seen in my previous post. Think this is pretty important because both the stock d300 bull gear, and the new tl d300 bull gears actually rock a tad on the t19 splined shafts when installed without the nut. Think the 200-300 ftlb torque is to make sure everything is well compressed on the t19 output shaft, and ensure no endplay. Also would appreciate it if someone could please educate me on how to upload multiple pictures so they open with the post so you don't have to open separate attachments.

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I edited your post to show the pictures. Maybe now if you try and edit the post you can see what I did to make your pictures appear. In a nutshell once you have downloaded your pictures right click on it and copy the image link. Then go to the little mountain picture about where you are writing and click on that. Past the image link in there and it will now appear wherever the cursor was last blinking in the text field. Hope that all made sense.
 
Honestly, I don’t recall where I have seen that washer I mentioned previously. But I am curious as to what teraflex says about the hieght difference between the oem and teralo bull gear
you reminded me that I have the tera low kit for the d-20. And got me wondering if the the bull gear in my kit is similar to yours. I will need to compare and see
 
D300 with 4:1 Terra Lows, Advanced Adapters heavy duty output shaft, twin sticked. Have about 15K miles on complete rebuild. Getting a weird growl when I take my foot out of the gas, and again when I step back on the gas, but only happens at freeway speeds - above about 50 mph. This is happening in 2 hi. No noise at low speeds around town, or cruising steady state at freeway speeds. Changed the fluid a few weeks ago. Saw a little fuzz on the pan magnet, less than I expected for first oil change after new gears and bearings. Getting ready to pull the cover and take a closer look. About the only thing I can figure, is one of the set screws holding the shifter forks is loose, or maybe one of the nylon bushings that go on the ends of the shift forks and ride in the slider gear grooves broke and fell out. If anyone has any suggestions for anything else to look for while I'm poking around in there let me know.
 
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