Cam and Engine Build Choices

eagle-Mark said:
well it can only be in one place! Can't it? :icon_eh:
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Absolutly correct. But what place. I've installed more than my share of cams. Only one installed where it was supposed to. I let 1-2 degrees go as the angles share. I've made 5 or 6 off-set IH cam keys for other form members not including twice that number for engines I have built to correct gross cam degree error.

In the end you are building the engine and you get to determine whichcorners to cut. I am not programed to cut any in which the only cost is a bit of time. This is one...
 
Since you have done so many you probably know how much one gear tooth is? If you making keys I'm guessing to much...
 
8 degrees. @ the crank. If/when I need an 8 degree correction I still make a key. That way no doubt as to what went on during the build.

Nothing would make me happier then to have thie crap go together spot on but that is not how it is. :nonod:

based on ed's (iskendarian) mo they grind 4 degrees in to the cam's but as with everything that is not always the case. I referance isky because I know him personaly and not they they goof up any nore then the others.

I've had cams from all of the major players that were indexed and ground the wrong way (1-2* retarded). I correct those with an offset key.
 
Ok, so let me get this clear first. Where do I want my cam?

Second, how are you making the keyway? Are you making them or just grinding down a side? Would that hold up? I have access to a machine shop. :thumbsup:
 
eagle-Mark said:
ok, so let me get this clear first. Where do I want my cam?

Second, how are you making the keyway? Are you making them or just grinding down a side? Would that hold up? I have access to a machine shop. :thumbsup:
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From Robert kenney -- " if/when I need an 8 degree correction I still make a key.

You cannot grind an existing woodruff key. The fit has to be tight -- otherwise, the gears will "rock" and eventually destroy themselves (and possibly other pieces of the engine).
 
Sorry Mark I forgot the making a key question. The key does not take a load, it only lines things up. The clamping loads created by tightening the bolt hold things steady.

The keys I make are off-set not notched or a modified stocker. They stare out wide and are rotary indexed x number of degrees so things slide together with no slop.

Your machine shop will have no trouble making what you need.
 
Well all the parts are here. Parts from machine shop are on there way home so the assembly will begin. Like any other motor I have built I will be starting with more cleaning especially oil galleys.

Any tips from experts? :yesnod:
 
Clean clean clean........ Till you go blind. :p

yep oil galleries, bores should be cleaned well. After cleaning till a paper towel comes back clean run your fingers around, you'll feel fine grit/dust so you will know when you are done. Take time to go over each corner of the rods and caps and main saddles and caps for burrs that May get in the way... Assemble the main caps to the block and check the bore diameters.

The rest you know.
 
That's always what I do to start. Even though the block has been hot tanked once br=efore boring and once after honing I still find grit or debree to be cleaned. Few cans of breakclean and lots of compressed air. Final wiping of parts with clean towel and acetone then assembly lube and oil.
 
Well I can't find my manuals... Can someone share with me main bearing clearences in plastic gauge? Also rod bearings? And main and rod bearing tourqe settings?
 
Gotta check the torque values but rod .0015 - .0025 clearance mains .002-.003. These are optimum you can increase them .001 but will sacrifice idle oil pressure.
 
Got the block cleaned today. Did not need much after hot tanking twice.

Crank shaft is in and plastigauge was .003 so we cleaned up the plastigauge and assemblylubed it and the crank is in, spins nice and free. Need to finish tourqing tomorrow and will work on pistons and rods! :yesnod:

mr nueke on bb was kind enough to forward me some specs and tourques as I still can't find my manuals!!!!
 
Re: Rear Main Seal

Hey Robert! :yikes:

I'm looking at this rear main bearing and seal and wondering if I should install the main bearing and tourque it then install the seal as you would normally tap in a seal?

Or should I slip the seal in and tourque the rear main cap?

I would use a little sealer around the seal either way, that's the way I do all seals.

Also the gasket set I got from IH only is very complete and has a little spacer to move the rear main seal out just a little bit so the seal misses the grove worn in the crank from the origanal. Nice touch!

Still have no idea where my manuals are? Don't remember letting them go with an old IH, I usually never sell a manual or tool or anything like that. Maybe I lent them to someone? So I hope you don't mind answering a few more questions as this goes together? I will post up some pictures and if you can think of any you don't have or need for information here let me know. I do appreciate your help and do like to share back when I can.
:yesnod:
 
I torque the cap and drive the seal in. I know it can be accomplished the other way but I have never done it that way. My fear has always been that the cap and block edges will pinch off a burr that will end up in the parting line. Also apply a thin layer on the parting surfaces of the cap and block. It can be a leaker cause.
 
Well I already had the rubber plugs in with some black o2 safe gasket sealer on them. Could not get a good line up on the rear seal because of the engine stand. So all I did was loosen the rear main cap. Could not see a visible movement! Used the spacer that came with gaskets because our crank had a slight grove. Used gasket sealer, thin layer around bore where seal goes and it tapped in just a tiny bit easier then I would have expected. Still no visable movement of rear main cap! Then retourqed rear main cap.

:idea: tip for doing this is lubricate seal surface with couple drips of assembly lube, place seal in location and push bottom half in a little. Use your thumb to press seal over the crankshaft. Tap in a little and use thumb to press seal over entire circumference of crankshaft. Finish tapping in. Seal is very tight and if you just try to tap in like normal the seal will not slide over crankshaft onto crankshaft and probably damage. By taking a little time to ensure seal is depressed with thumb over crankshaft with a little lube it slide right on. Hope someone finds this helpful! :yesnod:
 
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