Cam and Engine Build Choices

I just looked at the gasket set offered by IH only and it does not say what head gasket is. Do you know if it is the composite gasket recomended?

Also I do not see pistons on his site? Does he not deal in them? You and others have recomended silovite (sp) pistons?
 
The web site is definately not "all inclusive" you should really give them a call, they can tell you everything they have available, and its alot more than you can imagine! Its worth the talk, and the dime, or is it a quarter now?... :)
 
One more question before I place an order and I will ask Jeff opinion when I call.

Cam springs? With the porpose built engine for towing it should never see 5000 rpm do I really need aftermarket cam springs or will stock IH be ok?

More spring presure = faster wear on cam and harder duty on valve. But is needed at high rpm, I understand engines. But for this purpose are they needed?
 
If you run a stock cam run stock springs you run the comp with more lift and much higher lifting velocity you need a slightly higher spring rate.

I stated that I would set them up @ 80# on the seat. That is only a hair more than oem..

A decompressed piston had a shorter pin to piston top measurement to compensate for a block that has been whacked on before. You are not in that situation. You want to stroke the crank for more displacement use a shorter piston and stroke to 0 deck instead of machining the block. This will require re bobbing the crank and a thorough balance job. This is common engine practice not a new idea. Don't thing you are going in that direction.

I doubt ihon sells the old shim gaskets in there kit. Call Jeff.

Combining building practices from different sources will only lead to a non performer. Don't get crossed up with what we are recommending and what others are telling you.
 
Well I placed the order today. I told Jeff I would take a set of silovite pistons he has on the shelf. Don't know what size yet but that is what it will be bored to.

Got the comp springs to go with the duel pattern cam.

Probably only thing I May do and I don't know if it were mentioned here or on a port and polish question I had going on bp because I knew it would draw out Tom mandara. May remove hump from exhaust port if there is one. No body was sure if it was there in 72?

Other than that it will be put together tediously as outlined here. May take detailed pictures if they are not already around like the feeler gauge on both sides of rods above.

So for now thanks guys! Got's lots of cleaning to do, wait for pistons to arrive and bring to machinist for fitting. Then bring it home, more cleaning probably all oil passages, chase threads, more cleaning, then some assembly! :thumbsup:

since I've never done mpfi on an IH it will be fired up, broken in on the carb. Mpfi will be a latter project, got a 2 barrel intake already for the machinist. But May be adding a crank sensor and going coil on plug ls1 sequential since a buddy of mine has the ring cut out already for a bb Chevy...
 
eagle-Mark said:
what about cam timing? Do I need a degree wheel? I read something somewhere about 4 degrees?
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Port hump? Thought you had the heads off? If you have air tubes then you have the hump. Either way the exhaust port is the big restriction on your heads.

Cam timing needs to be verified so plan on having a degree wheel and dial indicator handy whether you want it straight up or 4 degrees advanced.

My recommendation for you earlier in your thread was 4* advanced (106* ilca).

Do you plan on "0" decking? Bumping the compression? If so it should go in straight up. Eg 110*/110*.

Want to stay at stock compression? It should go in 106/114 with the 106* being the intake lobe centerline.

Either way the 4* is roughly equivalent to a 200 rpm shift in the torque curve. 106 shifts it down 110 shifts it up. Moving it up will always make more hp because the torque curve rolls off later.
 
Yes I have the heads offf but never looked closely and now they are at the machine shop. Also no air tubes in exhaust manifolds.

Going to be stock compresion. So line up the gears and still need a degree wheel?
 
No air tube in head like the one you pictured earlier?

13306d1303060288-cam-engine-build-choices-head.jpg
 
eagle-Mark said:
well it can only be in one place! Can't it? :icon_eh:
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Absolutly correct. But what place. I've installed more than my share of cams. Only one installed where it was supposed to. I let 1-2 degrees go as the angles share. I've made 5 or 6 off-set IH cam keys for other form members not including twice that number for engines I have built to correct gross cam degree error.

In the end you are building the engine and you get to determine whichcorners to cut. I am not programed to cut any in which the only cost is a bit of time. This is one...
 
Since you have done so many you probably know how much one gear tooth is? If you making keys I'm guessing to much...
 
8 degrees. @ the crank. If/when I need an 8 degree correction I still make a key. That way no doubt as to what went on during the build.

Nothing would make me happier then to have thie crap go together spot on but that is not how it is. :nonod:

based on ed's (iskendarian) mo they grind 4 degrees in to the cam's but as with everything that is not always the case. I referance isky because I know him personaly and not they they goof up any nore then the others.

I've had cams from all of the major players that were indexed and ground the wrong way (1-2* retarded). I correct those with an offset key.
 
Ok, so let me get this clear first. Where do I want my cam?

Second, how are you making the keyway? Are you making them or just grinding down a side? Would that hold up? I have access to a machine shop. :thumbsup:
 
eagle-Mark said:
ok, so let me get this clear first. Where do I want my cam?

Second, how are you making the keyway? Are you making them or just grinding down a side? Would that hold up? I have access to a machine shop. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

From Robert kenney -- " if/when I need an 8 degree correction I still make a key.

You cannot grind an existing woodruff key. The fit has to be tight -- otherwise, the gears will "rock" and eventually destroy themselves (and possibly other pieces of the engine).
 
Sorry Mark I forgot the making a key question. The key does not take a load, it only lines things up. The clamping loads created by tightening the bolt hold things steady.

The keys I make are off-set not notched or a modified stocker. They stare out wide and are rotary indexed x number of degrees so things slide together with no slop.

Your machine shop will have no trouble making what you need.
 
Well all the parts are here. Parts from machine shop are on there way home so the assembly will begin. Like any other motor I have built I will be starting with more cleaning especially oil galleys.

Any tips from experts? :yesnod:
 
Clean clean clean........ Till you go blind. :p

yep oil galleries, bores should be cleaned well. After cleaning till a paper towel comes back clean run your fingers around, you'll feel fine grit/dust so you will know when you are done. Take time to go over each corner of the rods and caps and main saddles and caps for burrs that May get in the way... Assemble the main caps to the block and check the bore diameters.

The rest you know.
 
That's always what I do to start. Even though the block has been hot tanked once br=efore boring and once after honing I still find grit or debree to be cleaned. Few cans of breakclean and lots of compressed air. Final wiping of parts with clean towel and acetone then assembly lube and oil.
 
Well I can't find my manuals... Can someone share with me main bearing clearences in plastic gauge? Also rod bearings? And main and rod bearing tourqe settings?
 
Gotta check the torque values but rod .0015 - .0025 clearance mains .002-.003. These are optimum you can increase them .001 but will sacrifice idle oil pressure.
 
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