The list 2977 carb you are dealing with is an oem application for an ihc 266 motor. I have a few useable cores of that same list number in my stash now.
The throttle rod lashup is kinda odd, that one must have been set up for a hand throttle?? Does the rig have a pto installed???
The breakdown of the carb (excellent documentation by the way!) shows to be all original parts. Many of those parts are not going to be what you find in any carb kit whether sourced from Holley or any other version.
You will not find the throttle body gaskets at any parts supplier, those are specialty items available only through Holley direct in most cases. A Holley wd can order for you some of the gaskets, but the throttle body gaskets for the old oem carbs are not available, though I do have a semi-local source for some of that stuff because the guy has a Holley/rochester/carter inventory that stretches back over nearly 75 years.
If you use the Holley "universal" kit I've alluded to many times here, you will find one throttle body gasket in that set that is very close (but not the same) to what you need. That gasket will have to to be "punched"...I do that onna daily basis. But in most cases regarding this older oem carb stuff, I simply make a new correct gasket out of modern material, takes less than 10 minutes. Again...there are many nuances and differences in all these oem list 2300 carbs used over the years, ya just gotta be creative when dealing with 'em. Two of those gaskets in your kit you describe are only for the 500cfm Holley 4412 centerhung carb, you will see the venturi holes are much too large for your throttle body, do not attempt to use either of those.
The "correct" Holley kit dedicated for that carb list has not been available in many years...though some Holley wd might still have inventory on the shelf. That dedicated kit would be Holley p/n 65r-1066-s.
In that same basic oem series, there were at least fifteen separate list numbers...each with very unique characteristics...no one kit is going to be absolutely correct for a carb that was last in production in 1968!!! Same for the "instructions"...those are just basic guidelines and the instructions you are using are very generic and for a much later variation of the 2300 series.
That is why this sub-forum exists...to share knowledge about specific Holley mixers used on specific IH apps! We discover new stuff everyday around here, but we do have a vast amount of technical resources to draw from...along with one particular individual at Holley technical service who really is helpful in dealing with "old" oem stuff, not the same as the current aftermarket replacement items.
The oem power valve is the old style, those have been gone for about 15 years, those must be used with that "three-lobe" gasket.
The power valve supplied in the kit is a late design "picture window" unit and must be used with the larger round gasket. That one in the kit should be a #65 which is just fine for your carb/engine combo. The neoprene-coated "metal" gasket is for the steel fuel bowl fitting on the 2300 "center hung" carb and is not used on your carb app.
The gaskets in the kit you have should be the blue neoprene-coated "no stick" type. And that metering block you have does not incorporate a "transfer tube" which is what the two tiny "o" rings in the kit are for.
The bowl gasket in the Holley "universal" kit won't be correct for that carb, the one I see in your pic is a Holley p/n 108-83-2. Only that gasket must be used for your app, otherwise the bowl won't seal and the accel pump transfer will be blocked. Those come in 2-packs and any Holley parts jobber should have 'em hanging on the wall.
The metering body gasket in the universal kit will be correct for your carb.
The fel-pro 60677 base gasket was an original design done for ihc back in the day only...those were later incorporated (after about 1968) by many oem manufacturers to combat percolation on emissions motors. Holley also supplies that gasket utilizing slightly different material. I do not like to use the napa version of that gasket and would never consider using any napa-supply carb kit for any Holley carb app. We have the fel-pro gasket in stock here at ihon right now.
Surface the accel pump lever, it must be smooth, then you will have to change the bend on it so that the wot clearance can be properly set. Remove the nylon accel pump cam and clean very well, carb spray will not affect that cam.
I have been using only "tyme" cold parts cleaner for carb dip for the last three years (also internal engine parts go into the tyme bucket). It does not affect any rubber or composite material but it will also not strip grossly-adhered old time gaskets without some mechanical effort.
Your float is a very early "nitrophyl" item, current design nitrophyl floats are black and are greatly affected by the use of today's e10 fuel. Toss that one and replacement with a brass float currently available from Holley. All carbs I service get a float replacement now using only brass service parts, that changed about two years ago on my end. I deal with the "heavy" nitrophyl float setup on a daily basis on customer carbs.
Your item #38 in your pic is a bowl vent screen...that did not come oem on that carb and is an aftermarket part, helps prevent any fuel slosh through the bowl vent on rough terrain or during intermittent high angle operation, I put those in most all side-hung carbs I service. The original bowl vent used a very thin piece of formed brass sheet to act as a baffle at that location, held in place over those two pegs by the gasket.
If you have two accel pump elements in your kit, use the thinner one, that is for a 30cc pump. That kit you have also services a 500cfm (list 4412) version of similar carb and is a 50cc element. Also, latest production kits will have a "green" accel pump element, that is the "gflt" material designed to combat the effects of methanol, e85, and e10 fuels. Those are good! I'm not seeing any issue with the blue Holley gaskets right now regarding the use of the alkeefuels...and those are used on the Holley carbs running methanol in race apps.
Looking inside the fuel bowl I see evidence of deteriorated gasoline and moisture! No carb dip or spray will remove that stuff, I use several methods of mechanical cleaning to make the bowls (and all other parts) sterile.
If you see some heavy "white rust" (that is an oxidation issue somewhat peculiar to cast zinc components), then I have a secret mix that aids in removing that stuff, but it also takes much mechanical effort, it's not a "dip and play" kinda thing!
What else???
