2300 Rebuild 1966 Travelall
- Thread starter Beluga
- Start date
Shooter / Accel Pump / Pump Discharge Nozzle
I had 2 extra gaskets left over and finally discovered where they go (I knew the name of the part, but not where it was).
This part is referred to by 3 names (that I know of) and that confused me as a first timer.
I read a bunch of threads until michael got detailed in his instructions in one particular post, and then I knew what he was talking about.
So, if it helps, I thought I post a pic.
I had 2 extra gaskets left over and finally discovered where they go (I knew the name of the part, but not where it was).
This part is referred to by 3 names (that I know of) and that confused me as a first timer.
Accel pump nozzles
shooter
pump discharge nozzle
I read a bunch of threads until michael got detailed in his instructions in one particular post, and then I knew what he was talking about.
So, if it helps, I thought I post a pic.
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Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Those "shooter" gaskets are extremely important! Otherwise ya will not get the correct accel pump shot and also the shooter will continuously drool raw fuel down the gullet. The retaining screw needs to be real tight!
And so is the type discharge check valve as you show. Yours is the "long" needle. Some used a "short" needle with a so-called "hanging weight" placed on top of it. That is actually a roller bearing rolling element.
Then ya have the versions that used a simple check ball with the same "hanging weight" on top. The seat down inside the shooter bore must match the type check valve, a ball won't work in a needle seat and a needle won't work in a ball seat!
I see those mixed up quite often in carbs that have been pieced together from a boneyard supply.
Nice work, it'll be fine! Should crank over for about 15>20 seconds to fill the fuel bowl and then it'll light off.
And so is the type discharge check valve as you show. Yours is the "long" needle. Some used a "short" needle with a so-called "hanging weight" placed on top of it. That is actually a roller bearing rolling element.
Then ya have the versions that used a simple check ball with the same "hanging weight" on top. The seat down inside the shooter bore must match the type check valve, a ball won't work in a needle seat and a needle won't work in a ball seat!
I see those mixed up quite often in carbs that have been pieced together from a boneyard supply.
Nice work, it'll be fine! Should crank over for about 15>20 seconds to fill the fuel bowl and then it'll light off.
It Lives.
Did the .015" thing, but that seemed a bit squirrelly for a novice. The Holley carb website has a decent video of how to tune the accelerator pump:
Holley tv : featured Holley tv // on the powertv network
Nevertheless, I bolted it on, attached the cables, and cranked it for 15-20 seconds. It started up with a little rough running at first but settled down.
amazing
Some fuel splashed or spilled or something onto the carb when I was cranking it and somewhat pumping the gas pedal. So I can't tell exactly if it still leaks. But I should say the gas smell is not there like it was before the rebuild.
While running, I pushed the throttle and noted the shooter seems to work great.
I also noted that the driver side "booster" venturi appears to have fuel dripping off of it, but not the passenger side. As if it's collecting on it.
Anyway, I'll get to the fine tuning later. Right now I am just surprised it actually runs. Thanks michael.
Did the .015" thing, but that seemed a bit squirrelly for a novice. The Holley carb website has a decent video of how to tune the accelerator pump:
Holley tv : featured Holley tv // on the powertv network
Nevertheless, I bolted it on, attached the cables, and cranked it for 15-20 seconds. It started up with a little rough running at first but settled down.
amazing
Some fuel splashed or spilled or something onto the carb when I was cranking it and somewhat pumping the gas pedal. So I can't tell exactly if it still leaks. But I should say the gas smell is not there like it was before the rebuild.
While running, I pushed the throttle and noted the shooter seems to work great.
I also noted that the driver side "booster" venturi appears to have fuel dripping off of it, but not the passenger side. As if it's collecting on it.
Anyway, I'll get to the fine tuning later. Right now I am just surprised it actually runs. Thanks michael.
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So I think this closes out this thread.
I will start a new one on tuning my carb, since I have been reading others' threads and they either get sidetracked, are full of modifications I don't have, or are geared toward folks with a lot more experience than me (easy to find).
Craig
I will start a new one on tuning my carb, since I have been reading others' threads and they either get sidetracked, are full of modifications I don't have, or are geared toward folks with a lot more experience than me (easy to find).
Craig
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Set the fuel level to 1/16" below the bottom of the threads in the bowl sight window while the engine is running at idle. I bet the drool through the booster venturi goes away. I'd also venture that the idle speed is too high. Shoot for 550rpm when the engine is fully up to temp and the idle mixture screws are adjusted.
Great job! This has been an outstanding thread...and a process as performed by a carb rookie who pays attention to deetale! Couldn't be any better!
I've received several emails from folks telling me how much this thread has aided them, they just don't like to "talk" about it in public! That is exactly why building "how-to" threads such as yours is so important to the ihon forum!!
Great job! This has been an outstanding thread...and a process as performed by a carb rookie who pays attention to deetale! Couldn't be any better!
I've received several emails from folks telling me how much this thread has aided them, they just don't like to "talk" about it in public! That is exactly why building "how-to" threads such as yours is so important to the ihon forum!!