DC67 800
Member
Thanks, glad you like it. Nice to have all the work appreciated. You should start a build thread for your 800B project.
My 67 800
- Thread starter DC67 800
- Start date
Thanks, glad you like it. Nice to have all the work appreciated. You should start a build thread for your 800B project.
DC67 800
Member
The cage is finished. It's taken a while to deal with seat belts, frame tie in bracing. Here's a few pics of the finished product. I'll go into detail on the shoulder belt install at all four seating locations in the future.
Here you can see the seat belt tabs front and rear for the shoulder belts. I also added some extra bracing that did not come with the cage kit. I May add a few gussets here and there in the future.
The front frame tie ins here are for slider attachment still to come.
Rear frame tie in
Center frame tie in.
Here you can see the seat belt tabs front and rear for the shoulder belts. I also added some extra bracing that did not come with the cage kit. I May add a few gussets here and there in the future.
The front frame tie ins here are for slider attachment still to come.
Rear frame tie in
Center frame tie in.
DC67 800
Member
Got the seats all mounted this weekend. It took a bit of work but they fit nicely in the Scout. I ended up using the bestop seats that matched the rear seat as I found them for a good price.
Drivers side was pretty straight forward. Just some 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 steel tube as an adapter and to get the seat to a comfortable height. The sliders from the seats I had planned to use for the project bolted right to the bestop seats.
Built a bracket from tube and plate stock to support the passenger side seat.
Drivers side was pretty straight forward. Just some 2-1/2 x 1-1/2 steel tube as an adapter and to get the seat to a comfortable height. The sliders from the seats I had planned to use for the project bolted right to the bestop seats.
Built a bracket from tube and plate stock to support the passenger side seat.
DC67 800
Member
I got started on the rear bumper this afternoon. Initially I was going to fabricate a simple tube bumper for the rear but after finishing the front I wanted a rear bumper to match. I also wanted a step bumper that could hold a licence plate and had a tow hitch.
I didn't want to spend a lot on the bumper so after some searching I came up with a plan that was fairly inexpensive and easy to build.
Found this pro comp bumper for a Jeep which (as with the front bumper) was to narrow for the Scout. So to get the width and create the step I bought a tow hitch that is made to bolt to a step bumper.
Welded 1/4" plate to three side to create the step, then cut and welded the bumper to the box.
Mocked up for fit.
Think I will add some gussets for a more integrated look. I am also going to add some support to the back side to strengthen it for towing. I will show that and frame connection on the next post.
I didn't want to spend a lot on the bumper so after some searching I came up with a plan that was fairly inexpensive and easy to build.
Found this pro comp bumper for a Jeep which (as with the front bumper) was to narrow for the Scout. So to get the width and create the step I bought a tow hitch that is made to bolt to a step bumper.
Welded 1/4" plate to three side to create the step, then cut and welded the bumper to the box.
Mocked up for fit.
Think I will add some gussets for a more integrated look. I am also going to add some support to the back side to strengthen it for towing. I will show that and frame connection on the next post.
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DC67 800
Member
It's been a while since the last update. Haven't really done much the last couple of months.I still have some work to do on the rear bumper and I will update that in the future.
I am at the point where I need to start wiring, so I have spent some time studying and thinking about things. A while back I picked up an American autowire 22 circuit harness. I went with this harness because I really liked the fact that the the wires are not permanently attached to the fuse block. I also wanted the flexibility to expand in the future without a bunch of excess wire coiled up under the dash. This seemed to be a good solution. However the fuse block itself is quite large, so finding a location in the cab was a struggle.
So here is what I came up with:
made an aluminum plate that bolted to the brake pedal bracket. This gave me a location to bolt the fuse block to that is out of the way yet accessible.
Fuse block mounted in place, tucked up out of the way and easily accessible. You can see how big the block is. Really wanted to keep it out of the engine bay and this location seems to work.
I am at the point where I need to start wiring, so I have spent some time studying and thinking about things. A while back I picked up an American autowire 22 circuit harness. I went with this harness because I really liked the fact that the the wires are not permanently attached to the fuse block. I also wanted the flexibility to expand in the future without a bunch of excess wire coiled up under the dash. This seemed to be a good solution. However the fuse block itself is quite large, so finding a location in the cab was a struggle.
So here is what I came up with:
made an aluminum plate that bolted to the brake pedal bracket. This gave me a location to bolt the fuse block to that is out of the way yet accessible.
Fuse block mounted in place, tucked up out of the way and easily accessible. You can see how big the block is. Really wanted to keep it out of the engine bay and this location seems to work.
DC67 800
Member
Well the Scout is roadworthy. Took it out on the pavement for the first time the other day. Still haven't taken it to highway speed yet but it seems to tack ok on pavement. I will get some pics posted soon. Had some trouble getting the tci tranny controller to work but that seems to be corrected. I need to get the doors cleaned up and installed. I have a little rust on the bottom of the passenger side door. Trying to figure out how to repair it without replacing the whole thing. The rust is on the front corner so a simple patch is not going to be easy. Any input from you guys who have repaired this spot is welcome. Pictures coming.
DC67 800
Member
So here is the door rust I need to repair. Luckily this is it for both doors. Not being a body sheet metal guy I have been able to deal with the rust as it was all flat parts with straight bends, no radius. Not quite sure how to deal with this. I don't have any spare doors to cut a patch out of. Suppose I could try to hunt some down if necessary. You guys have any ideas to repair this area without a patch from a spare door?
DC67 800
Member
Its been quite a while since my last post for the project. The Scout has actually been roadworthy for some time and I have been driving it when I can. However, there has been a problem with it running to hot, not overheating, just to warm for comfort. I think I have finally gotten that straitened out but it took removing the electric fan and going to a clutch/fan unit with a shroud that required some fabrication. The transmission is also running hotter than it should so my next project will be to replace the cooler with a bigger higher quality cooler than the tube and fin unit it currently has.
Bumpers are finally painted and I am pleased with the finished product.
The Scout rides pretty good on the highway. Cruises nicely at 55. Still need to get the front end aligned and probably have the tires re balanced but overall it seems pretty good.
Bumpers are finally painted and I am pleased with the finished product.
The Scout rides pretty good on the highway. Cruises nicely at 55. Still need to get the front end aligned and probably have the tires re balanced but overall it seems pretty good.
DC67 800
Member
Got the doors all cleaned up and ready to reinstall the windows. Used Por 15 inside the doors, then sprayed over that with some Eastwood internal frame coating to reach areas I couldn't with a paint brush. The Eastwood internal frame coating came with a tube nozzle that sprays 360 deg. Works great for places that can't be reached.
Here is a couple of pics of the gauges. Finally have them all working correctly. They have built in turn signal and hi beam indicators. I had initially bought a set of off ebay that was refurbished but still came with a lifetime warranty. I was having issues with the fuel gauge so after some trouble shooting and communication with Intellitronix they had me send them in for testing. Two weeks later I had them back. When I opened the box I was looking at a brand new set of gauges. I was just expecting a repair so it was pretty surprising to see the new unit. Intellitronix definitely stands behind their products and they are also made in the USA.
Here is a couple of pics of the gauges. Finally have them all working correctly. They have built in turn signal and hi beam indicators. I had initially bought a set of off ebay that was refurbished but still came with a lifetime warranty. I was having issues with the fuel gauge so after some trouble shooting and communication with Intellitronix they had me send them in for testing. Two weeks later I had them back. When I opened the box I was looking at a brand new set of gauges. I was just expecting a repair so it was pretty surprising to see the new unit. Intellitronix definitely stands behind their products and they are also made in the USA.
DC67 800
Member
I have been messing with the brakes for a while now. The Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers are a pain to adjust but I finally have them to where I can live with them.The parking brake is operational but not as strong as I would like. They are a pain to bleed as you have to get the bleeder screw parallel to the ground to do it correctly, this means removing the rear wheels and the top caliper bolt to rotate them back. Part of the problem is the Lokar park brake lever not having enough travel.I may work on some kind of mechanical lever to give it more throw.
I have had a spongy low pedal since the beginning. bled the brakes a couple times and could not get them to work better. Took a lot of force to apply the brakes. Thought about several options which included going to a dual diaphragm booster. My engine idles with about 14" of vacuum. I looked at vacuum brake bleeders but everyone I know that has used the inexpensive ones say they don't work. after searching around I found this on Amazon:
Pneumatic brake bleeder. Hanperal Auto Car Brake Fluid Replacement Tool /Brake Fluid Drained Bleeder tool Equipment Kit
For $28 dollars I thought I would give it a try. The directions are garbage, they couldn't even get the English correct but it is pretty self explanatory. Well I bled my brakes today then went out for a test drive. Huge difference. My brakes work like they should. My boys went with me and they could feel the difference in stopping power. This tool definitely works, turned the bleeding into a job I could do by myself.
Nice to have good brakes.
I have had a spongy low pedal since the beginning. bled the brakes a couple times and could not get them to work better. Took a lot of force to apply the brakes. Thought about several options which included going to a dual diaphragm booster. My engine idles with about 14" of vacuum. I looked at vacuum brake bleeders but everyone I know that has used the inexpensive ones say they don't work. after searching around I found this on Amazon:
Pneumatic brake bleeder. Hanperal Auto Car Brake Fluid Replacement Tool /Brake Fluid Drained Bleeder tool Equipment Kit
For $28 dollars I thought I would give it a try. The directions are garbage, they couldn't even get the English correct but it is pretty self explanatory. Well I bled my brakes today then went out for a test drive. Huge difference. My brakes work like they should. My boys went with me and they could feel the difference in stopping power. This tool definitely works, turned the bleeding into a job I could do by myself.
Nice to have good brakes.
DC67 800
Member
So, I got my windows all rebuilt. Bought all the parts from IHPA. They now roll up and down pretty smooth for their 50 year age. After I installed my roll cage the interior door handles were right up against the pillar to the floor. Re positioning them didn't really work as they had to be rotated 90 or 180* so they either would hit the window crank or be close to the cage again. I didn't want to cut them and my window cranks were not in great shape anyway. So I found some universal aluminum window cranks. They didn't have any door handles so I bought 2 pairs of window cranks and removed the crank knob to use them as door handles. I knew they were made in China and they weren't that expensive so if they didn't work I would not be out that much coin. Out of the box they weren't that great but with a little work they can be made to handle regular use.
Since they are universal they come with several adapters and set screws. the adapters only had 1 set screw to hold them on, so I drilled and tapped them so each one now has 3 set screws.
3 set screws for each adapter.
The cranks had 2 set screws so I drilled and tapped them so they each have 3 set screws. They work pretty good now. After I am done I think a little blue lock tite will keep everything in place.
The shorter handle length give room for everything to work properly. There is now room between the cage and the door handle.
Since they are universal they come with several adapters and set screws. the adapters only had 1 set screw to hold them on, so I drilled and tapped them so each one now has 3 set screws.
3 set screws for each adapter.
The cranks had 2 set screws so I drilled and tapped them so they each have 3 set screws. They work pretty good now. After I am done I think a little blue lock tite will keep everything in place.
The shorter handle length give room for everything to work properly. There is now room between the cage and the door handle.
DC67 800
Member
It's been some time since I've been around. Haven't done much to the Scout in a while. I did add an EFI system a while back and I will get updated here soon.
Back in November I was taking my boys to school when someone made a left turn in front of me on the highway totaling my truck. My boys were both unharmed however I received a broken arm and finger. All healed from my injuries but still dealing with medical bills and insurance companies.
Hope to have the Scout at the Sierra Fall Rally again.
Back in November I was taking my boys to school when someone made a left turn in front of me on the highway totaling my truck. My boys were both unharmed however I received a broken arm and finger. All healed from my injuries but still dealing with medical bills and insurance companies.
Hope to have the Scout at the Sierra Fall Rally again.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
Yikes! 
Glad your kids were ok and that you were ultimately fixable. That was a hard hit.
Glad your kids were ok and that you were ultimately fixable. That was a hard hit.
DC67 800
Member
Yikes!
Thanks Robert,
It was a hard hit against another full size truck. My 9 year old was afraid to go through the intersection where it happened for a couple months after.
I bought that truck new in 2007 and it had 100k miles on it when we were hit, nowhere near worn out. Disappointing but luckily we all came through all right.