My 67 800

[DC67 800]

Went to the local car show this morning, after getting home decided to do something while watching football and start my build thread.

So, after two years of owning the Scout here goes. Bought my 67 800 on labor day weekend in 2012 and after sitting on it for a year and collecting parts I got started on the build about a year ago. I have been taking pictures along the way and will continue to update as the build progresses.

Here is the Scout as it was purchased. Had a 304, t-18, Dana 20, Dana 30, Dana 44 tapered axle, bench seat and no rear seat.

 

[DC67 800]

So the plan for the build was a Chevy 350, 4l60e automatic tranny, Jeep Dana 300, Chevy Dana 44 up front for the flat top knuckles (narrowed for Scout II axles, cut and turn), and Scout II Dana 44 in the rear.

On jack stands in the garage, all running gear stripped except for the axles.


Engine, tranny and transfer case fitting.










Tucked nicely above the bottom of the frame rails

 

[DC67 800]

The suspension is spring over w/ Scout II leaf springs, IHPA reverse shackle.

I won't go into the cut and turn as that info has been covered in great detail by others.

Question for all you suspension gurus. Note the length of the cast in spring perch on the GM Dana 44 as compared to the length of the spring perch from IHPA used on the drivers side. Will this difference in length cause the springs to be loaded at different rates? Should the drivers side perch be cut shorter to mach the length of the cast in perch?

Once the suspension was at the stage in the pictures the engine, tranny & t case were installed and the suspension loaded with entire vehicle weight to make sure everything was correctly place.

 

[DC67 800]

After finishing up with the suspension (finished pictures to come) I moved on to rust repair. Unfortunately the kick panels were rusted out at the door hinge mounts and the inner rocker panels also needed replacing. The rocker panels could have probably been reused but having the body taken down this far I just decided to replace them also. Overall the Scout body was pretty rust free thankfully as just replacing the kick panels and inner and outer rockers really burned me out.

You can see how far gone they were.


The hinge mounts themselves were surprisingly still in good shape and reusable.




Drilling out of spot welds, a good sharp drill bit worked really well.

 

[DC67 800]

Here are the body repairs for the rusted areas. Ended up making my own kick panels and inner rocker panels. IHPA supplied the rocker panels, which fit really well. This was a nice surprise as I have seen several posts on forums where people have had to make adjustments to the aftermarket rockers.


Home made parts, I was able to use the removed parts as patterns.


Inner rocker in progress.






Kick panel installed with outer panel that supports hinge mount.
I ended up deleting the fresh are vents and ducts. Since this will not be a daily driver I figured that in the summer the top will be off most of the time and in the winter a window or wind wing can be cracked when necessary.




Passenger side in progress.


Rocker panel

 

[DC67 800]

With the elimination of the air ducts and the removal of the huge factory heater setup under the hood I needed a heater setup. Ended up getting a summit racing heater for warm air. Now I just needed a location for the install.

Since the summit heater pulls air from the motor that is directly attached to the unit core putting it in the engine bay was out of the question, so I needed to fit it in the cab. After some thought and looking over builds I saw what michael dimock did on his build: http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/readers-rides/7843-modernizing-65-Scout-800-a.html.
This would give me room for the heater and some extra foot room for passengers.

As the heater is a compact unit I was able to fit it behind the dash and still leave room in the engine bay for a battery.

Fitting of heater/battery sheet metal.


All welded in place.


A little extra foot room.


Space for new heater box.

 

[DC67 800]

Power steering was also on the list of upgrades. Since my 800 was a factory v8 the easiest way to achieve this was with a Scout II steering box. It basically fit in the same location as the manual unit from the factory. Didn't want any issues in the future so the frame was sleeved in all three bolt locations and a 1/4" plate was welded to both the interior, and exterior frame rails.






Box fit nicely and all the angles worked with the steering column.

 

[DC67 800]

Haven't updated in a while so here is a little progress:

electric wiper motors, they fit behind the dash but I had to do some work on the defrost duct.





Here are some pics of my heater/defrost duct work with my custom dash panel that holds the heater vents.






You can see the heater in the glove box opening along with the wiper motor. No room for a glove box, but I will have room in a center consle.

 

[DC67 800]

Here is my hi steer setup.
Wagoneer pitman arm from IHPA, dom tube drag link and tie rod with GM tres.

 

[DC67 800]

Here is my shock fab.
I used 1-1/2" tubing to line everything up. The tubing allowed bolting the top and bottom brackets so they wouldn't move, then I just clamped them in place. No fussing to keep everything positioned correctly.








These are just the standard shock tabs that IHPA sells, I welded the plate to the top to hold them together, it also gave me another welding location to the axle tube.





The rear shocks are basically in their stock positions, but the bottom brackets are attached to the axle tube since it is now spring over.

 

[DC67 800]

I couldn't resist putting these on since they were sitting in the garage taking up space.







I'll get some more pics soon. I haven't done the best job of taking them as I go along.

Damian

 

[mikeindustries]

Great job. I like the shoes. Looks like its gunna be a beast! Keep up the good work.

 

[DC67 800]

great job. I like the shoes. Looks like its gunna be a beast! Keep up the good work.

Thanks for the input.
I debated putting 35's on it, but I am glad I went with the 33's instead. It stands a lot taller than I was expecting. It May need a leaf or two removed from the rear spring pack when all is done to level the stance.

I have been watching your build and was wondering how that weather pack connector kit worked out for you? I have been wanting to get it for my wiring but been debating whether it was worth the expense.

 

[mikeindustries]

thanks for the input.
I debated putting 35's on it, but I am glad I went with the 33's instead. It stands a lot taller than I was expecting. It May need a leaf or two removed from the rear spring pack when all is done to level the stance.

I have been watching your build and was wondering how that weather pack connector kit worked out for you? I have been wanting to get it for my wiring but been debating whether it was worth the expense.

I think the weather pack kit was worth it just for the water proof connections. The kit was like $100 bucks. I think it was a cleaner install.

I like the height. I might settle a bit. I'd run it as is.

 

[DC67 800]

Here are some pictures of my finished dash panel with the electronic gauge kit. All the panels are aluminum. I welded nuts to the back of the dash for the stainless screws. Makes the panels easy to remove. Still have to wire and install switching, but I thought it turned out pretty nice.

 

[DC67 800]

Got the exhaust fabricated, nothing special just a 2-1/4" kit that exits in front of the rear tires. The kit came with a bunch of different hanger options to work with most applications. Used dynomax super turbos for the mufflers and a pair of full length headers that are made for a corvette.

I just kept it simple, there is no cross over pipe and exiting in front of the rear tires kept bends to a minimum. If the exit point does not work out I can modify it in the future to exit behind the tires. Figured since this is not a hot rod the exhaust should function fine.



These headers actually fit surprisingly well. I printed a picture off of the suppliers website and did some rough scaling since they had no dimensions. Once I figured they were close I took a chance and ordered them, it was a relief to get them right on the first try with no returns. I really didn't want to use block huggers.



Had to clearance the drivers side motor mount to fit, I didn't wand to beat up a new header. If the mount shows any signs of stress in the future it can be beefed up.



Mufflers fit nicely right where the body steps up. You can see they block the parking brake cable brackets. Since I have upgraded to a lokar parking break setup those brackets will not be needed. Still working on the location for the lokar hand lever but I have a couple of ideas.



Had to buy a couple of extra bends to get around the t-case. Worked nicely.







The only part of the kit I didn't like was the length of the straight pipe, had to piece two pipes together between the drivers side header and muffler.



Exit point, probably get some nice tips. With sliders it should be protected nicely.

 

[DC67 800]

Got this for a back seat. The colors matched what I have done so far. Still need to mount it, trying to do the dirty greasy work before it gets fit.






Found these seats a while back, nothing special, but they are going to get some extra padding added and recovered with material to match the back seat. Luckily I have an uncle who does upholstery work. He has the seats now and is just waiting on me to send a head rest to him for a material match. Should look good when done.

 

[POPS]

Your build looks great. Inspiring.

 

[DC67 800]

your build looks great. Inspiring.

Thanks pops,
glad you like it. It's been a long haul to get this far. Even though there is a lot more to do I finally feel like I am on the down hill side to having it run.

Damian

 

[DC67 800]

I just realize I never mentioned what was installed for gears and traction.

Since the trans is an overdrive I went with 4.88 gears. Should cruise nicely and if I ever upgrade to a 35" tire it will still be geared low enough.

The rear diff has a spartan locker installed. Not my first choice, but a select-able was just to much to spend for me at this point. Did a lot of reading on this type of locker and like every product there are a lot of people who love them and hate them, so I will have to experience it for myself. I will run it like this for a while and upgrade in the future when money to finish the project is not an issue.

The front contains a detroit truetrac. I know it's not the ultimate traction device, but it will do for now. At least it will give some better traction than an open diff and still be manageable in 4wd.

 

[DC67 800]

I know a lot of guys are setting up hydra boost (spelling) for power break systems. I debated between that and a power booster setup and decided on power breaks. Even though hydra boost does not look that complicated it was just one more unknown for me that I didn't want to deal with, so ended up going with a power brake booster.

Sorry for the sideways pictures.
The biggest hurdle with power breaks for an early Scout is clearing the fender well, so what I did was to move the master cylinder support box that is bolted to the fire wall up one bolt hole. This allowed the master cylinder to clear the fender well and aligned the break piston rod that attaches to the pedal almost perfectly. The booster is an aftermarket unit for a GM setup.







The break pedal is the factory unit. I bought a cheapo aluminum pedal pad off of ebay, removed the attachment protrusion from the back side. Then removed the rubber pads and drilled and countersunk four holes through it and the factory steel pedal, then bolted the aluminum pad to the factory pedal and glued the rubber pedal pads back in. Now I have a nice looking break pedal and a gas pedal(also off of ebay) to match. They look pretty good and together cost less than the name brand pedal pad alone.




I did have to drill a new hole in the factory pedal assembly as the alignment was off just a bit, but it worked really nicely.

 

[kvp]

Nice build. I have two questions. First do you have a part number or know where or what the wiper motors are from? And two the same goes for the back seat? I really like how the 350 fits in there. Most people are notching the body tube and what not yours looks like about what the stock 304 looks like in the engine bay.

 

[DC67 800]

nice build. I have two questions. First do you have a part number or know where or what the wiper motors are from? And two the same goes for the back seat? I really like how the 350 fits in there. Most people are notching the body tube and what not yours looks like about what the stock 304 looks like in the engine bay.

Here is a link to the wiper motors:
model # tmc-00902-12v heavy duty marine wiper motor with 2" shaft
You have to call them to order because you will need a reverse park motor for the passenger side. When you call, tim at tmc will know exactly what you are doing. He keeps the reverse park motors in stock because Scout guys use them, they are not on the web site because he doesn't want to confuse his boat customers.

Link to the wiper switch that you will need:
am equipment : twist knob switch for two coast to park motors w/ wash [311-1017] - $17.89.


The rear seat is a bestop brand for a Jeep.
I got mine off of amazon only because I had a gift certificate, so it cost me like $75 and the colors worked perfectly for my project. I have not installed it yet, but I will just keep it simple and fabricate some brackets to bolt it to the floor.
Here is the model:
bestop 39441-15 trailmax II fold and tumble black denim vinyl with fabric insert rear bench seat for 55-95 cj5, cj7 and wrangler yj


as far as the 350 goes, I just mocked it up with the transmission, transfer case and adapter. I knew I didn't want to cut the firewall and my goal was to keep all the running gear above the frame rails.
The exhaust port on the drivers side was where I started for the location front to back. That port was placed just far enough in front of the firewall protrusion to fit a header. That left me about 3-1/2" to 4" from the snout of the water pump to the radiator(which is not stock but in the same location). From there I just checked driveline length front and rear and made sure I could get the geometry to work for the u-joints.
I will show more detail on most of this soon.

As far as engine height goes the the water pump is almost centered on the radiator, that worked out to keep the transfer case above the bottom of the frame rails and work with the motor mounts (which are also for a Jeep). I could have clocked the transfer case and dropped the motor lower, but I wanted the option to run a mechanical fan if necessary.

Let me know if you need any more info or better pictures. I will post more soon.

Damian

 

[kvp]

Cool thank you. Looks like their are at least two scouts out there with more then one piece of Jeep stuff lol. Keep up the awesome build and if time allows keep us in the know.

 

[DC67 800]

I think this question will be ok with the mods.

Have any of you used d&c extreme's cage kit for our 80/800's?
Have you dealt with the new owner?

The roll cage is a project I don't want to tackle from scratch as I don't have access to a bender and don't want to buy one.
I don't mind putting together a kit.

Thanks
damian