Dana/Spicer Transfer Case Guapo

Michael Mayben

Michael Mayben

IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Let's use this thread for discussing anything related to the Dana/spicer d18/d20/d300 transfer cases as used in ihc applications.
 
Anybody installed a set of Bronco dana20 2.46 gears in their Scout case, I here you gota do some grind'n inside the case?
 
I've got no experience with that goldie...but as soon as I get home, I'll find out fromma bubba that does! But Jeff, Chad, or others around here will prolly chime in before that happens!

Peace and love? Ya gotta be in eugene!

Hang on...we'll be back!
 
So, I have some questions regarding a Dana 300 to nv4500 (early GM gas version, '93-'95) gearbox set up. From digging around in the IH Parts America store, I don't see an adapter for this. I found one on advance adapters however, 50-0205
Im finding that the IH Dana 300 is different than the heep Dana 300, but I didnt see any place listing what those differences are. Id like to know what those differences are, and im also assuming the parts from each are not interchangeable? I already have the nv4500 so I definitely going to use that. I also like the Dana 300, so im just trying to figure out a plan of attack for that.
Ultimately this is set up is going to be installed in an 800B I'm slowly working on. If there is another transfercase that someone suggests over the d300, chime in. I know there's the atlas and all, but I want to keep this a little less expensive. It seems I could get a good d300, adapter and a 4:1 kit for less than an atlas. If anyone has some experience with this, I'd like to hear it as well. Thanks a lot. Taker easy!
 
If your getting any form of adapter from your transmission to t-case, go with the Jeep d300.

The Jeep d300 has a round bolt pattern, which is identical to np231, 241, Ford & some Chevy np205s, etc. Etc. (spline inputs will be different on many of those cases though).

The Scout d300 has the "texas" bolt pattern, which is identical to d18 & d20s. Hence the popularity of Scout d300 for swapping into older jeeps & scouts for the d18 or d20.

Depending on location, supply and demand, who you know, Jeep 300s run from $150-$400, while Scout 300s run in the $300-$800 range (way too high in my opinion, but I guess it's a supply thing).
 
Matt,

I agree with what mocha said. Go with the Jeep Dana 300 as parts availability are more readily available and cheaper. Also if you ever do decide to switch to an atlas or stak transfer case you will already have the proper adapter on the back of your nv4500. As for any advance adapter part we are a wholesale distributor for aa so please try us first when considering your order. The 50-0205 from us retails for $531.25 - a $55 savings. Remember we don't list every part that we sell or stock online so please call or email if you don't see what you're looking for.
 
Thanks mochamike and Jeff!
I now remember something in my memory about different bolt patterns.
So from the sounds of it, that aa kit is the only way to adapt the nv4500 to the Dana 300.
Jeff, I always look to you guys for my parts since you've always been super easy to do business with. I guess I just missed the fact that youre an aa dealer, I didnt scroll to see the logo, I just went straight for the parts listing online.
Thanks again guys, now on to finding my Dana 300!
 
T'case removal 101

I am trying to remove the d18 from a 63 s-80. Everything I can see and read says there are 5 bolts. I have removed 4 from the rear of the tranny and the one on the passenger side attaching it to the rubber mount.

I have also removed the input gear under the sheet metal cover and still it doesn't want to pull off the tranny.

This isn't that hard. What am I missing?

Lyle
 
There should be 5 on the texas shaped mounting pattern....
2 on top, to on either side/middle, 1 at the bottom...

Look at this gasket:
dana_18_20_front_gasket.gif


If you are certain you have removed all mounting bolts.
Try a dead-blow hammer.

If rtv was used as a gasket, it can act like rubber glue.
 
Lyle, you're probably missing the pita(pain in the ass) one which is almost buried in the casting under a thick veneer of dirt dried oil. It would be about the 5 o'clock position in Mike's picture and it's one of those you can only turn one flat at a time.
 
mochamike said:
there should be 5 on the texas shaped mounting pattern....
2 on top, to on either side/middle, 1 at the bottom...

Look at this gasket:
dana_18_20_front_gasket.gif


If you are certain you have removed all mounting bolts.
Try a dead-blow hammer.

If rtv was used as a gasket, it can act like rubber glue.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Mike. I think I have missed one. I'll crawl under it again Tomorrow and check. There is so much crud on this thing, the bolt head is probably buried under it. It took a 1/2 hour to dig out the bolt on the rubber mount.

Lyle
 
greg r said:
lyle, you're probably missing the pita(pain in the ass) one which is almost buried in the casting under a thick veneer of dirt dried oil. It would be about the 5 o'clock position in Mike's picture and it's one of those you can only turn one flat at a time.
Click to expand...

Yup, that's the one I can't account for. I'll let you know.

Thanks,

lyle
 
Lyle...is this a donor d18 case/trans you are working with or linda's red one?

I have a significant accumulation of "stuff" for those (and d20) on the shelf here at the shop that you don't know about and haven't seen yet (new and also sorted excellent used).

Keep that in mind regarding this project.
 
Not to steal Dad's thunder, but I went over today to play musical trucks and he had the case down. Later I helped him pull the case out from under the Scout 80. The lower "5 o'clock" bolt was the culprit.
 
carl wiese said:
not to steal Dad's thunder, but I went over today to play musical trucks and he had the case down. Later I helped him pull the case out from under the Scout 80. The lower "5 o'clock" bolt was the culprit.
Click to expand...

Yes it was and it is on the front side of the tranny covered with crud and stuff. (I remember reading that somewhere.)

lyle
 
michael mayben said:
lyle...is this a donor d18 case/trans you are working with or linda's red one?

I have a significant accumulation of "stuff" for those (and d20) on the shelf here at the shop that you don't know about and haven't seen yet (new and also sorted excellent used).

Keep that in mind regarding this project.
Click to expand...

This is on linda's 80. It is really bad at marking it's territory so I decided to plug up the leaks, so to speak. Does ihon stock a gasket/seal kit for the d18? I don't see one listed on the site.

I will keep your "stuff" in mind when I get it opened up.

Thanks,

lyle
 
lyle wiese said:
this is on linda's 80. It is really bad at marking it's territory so I decided to plug up the leaks, so to speak. Does ihon stock a gasket/seal kit for the d18? I don't see one listed on the site.

I will keep your "stuff" in mind when I get it opened up.

Thanks,

lyle
Click to expand...

If you are only gonna do a re-seal, then the gasket/seal kit is common for both the d18 and the d20.

If you are going to do the entire overhaul, you will want a "master" kit which includes a new intermediate shaft...for that you need to specify which diameter shaft the case has in it now. That is easily "measured" by looking at the end of the shaft now where it protrudes from the case and taking a nominal od. Since that one if original is a very early unit, it could have a 1-1/8" intermediate shaft. Otherwise it will be 1-1/4" so it's a pretty easy eyeball deal.

See those two thin sheetmetal "thimbles" protruding from the case that the shift fork rails slide into??? I bet it's leaking badly from that area. I have a few new thimbles left, don't believe ya can get those anywhere now except maybe novak. They can be cleaned up and "swedged" to re-install if they are not rotten.

The gasket/seal kits will have several components not used in the d18, and other parts that are for variations of the d18 (early) that date back pre-wwii. So ya just pick and chose what ya need.
 
Don't know yet about what needs to be done since all I did this evening was find the "hidden" bolt and get it down on the floor. I was waiting for carl to arrive to assist in the latest version of musical rigs. Finally got the kb off the trailer and parked. After some rearranging in the garage, carl's sii will go in the operating room for an exploratory.

The bull gear looked just fine. I'll let you know what I need.

Thanks,

lyle
 
Only thing is when we were moving the rigs around the r'all brake pedal went to the floor and the "brake" light came on. Linda took her foot off the pedal and the brakes "came back", the light went out, and we finished what we were doing. (the r'all was the "brakes" for the kb.) I replaced the mc when I went through everything, but the brakes have never been what I expect them to be. I not going to mess around. It gets another mc this weekend and another check of every wheel.

Lyle
 
lyle wiese said:
only thing is when we were moving the rigs around the r'all brake pedal went to the floor and the "brake" light came on. Linda took her foot off the pedal and the brakes "came back", the light went out, and we finished what we were doing. (the r'all was the "brakes" for the kb.) I replaced the mc when I went through everything, but the brakes have never been what I expect them to be. I not going to mess around. It gets another mc this weekend and another check of every wheel.

Lyle
Click to expand...

So the master cylinder "bypassed" internally one time! It needs to go away! Get a new one (not reman) if at all possible!

If the light went out, then the combination valve re-centered itself and did not shear off the activation pin in the switch component. That is a lucky occurrence!

Be sure to bench bleed the replacement mc.

Ain't it strange how the more IH crapballs that come to roost ends up with trickledown for sumthin' else? All yore piles are jealous that the "k" truck is gonna now git some luv. And then the s80 tc project makes 'em all jealous, just like havin' four dawgs and only one treat!
 
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