Two Bent Pushrods

Keep this thread open until the motor is complete and fully operational.

I use an assortment of 12 gauge shotgun cleaning apparatus, along with oil gallery brushes (both steel and brass) to clean the shafts, some have a massive amount of hard carbonized oil inside, for those I have made some "roto-rooter" tools and also use aircraft drill bits.
 
Been there, done that, though our story is not one in the list.:icon_wink:

one of the cam bearings was .005" oversized due to improper starting method by a po after the engine had set for some time. .005" is all is took to cause a whole lot of trouble on the top end. Like Mike said, be absolutely sure your engine is oiling properly or you will be taking it apart again.

Lyle
 
michael mayben said:
keep this thread open until the motor is complete and fully operational.
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That's for sure. This is turning out to be a dam good thread. Grimlock, I know you're learning a lot, and I am too. Plenty of other folks will benefit from this also. 2nd chances are a good thing sometimes.
 
I just got my heads back yesterday and painted up, I am ready to put the motor back together, all the cam bearings surprisingly looked good, no shards in my oil pan, the heads look awesome, the man down there said he could tell bad gas was part of the issue, and went so far to say he has straightened bent pushrods to put them back in, I have two new ones, this afternoon I will be putting the heads back on and the pushrods and rockers, I have the torque specs for the heads, but do the rockers need to be torqued? I put new freeze plugs in both sets and cleaned them up nice, they were actually pretty clean inside, the only sludge was on the lube hole coming from the block itself, is there anything else I need to know before proceeding? Thanks for all the greak knowledge
 
I don't use a torque wrench on the rocker arm retainer bolts, just an educated elbow!

But first, the rocker stand bolts which thread into the intake passages must be treated with a sealant, otherwise you will have both a potential vacuum leak and the motor will suck oil and smoke.

Then evenly snug all the rocker stand bolts down. The go back and tighten a bit more. You are compressing the aluminum stands and too much torque will crack one or more.

Once the motor is back together, I'd repeat the observation of the rocker assemblies oiling while running to confirm proper lubrication.
 
What type of sealant? Would 10w30 work? I know the book said to lube the head bolts with 10w30 before torquing them down. I just don't want to have to pull everything apart again and I do plan on making sure they oil after getting them back together, I've learned that lesson so far.
 
For "sealant" I use either permatex #2, or hylomar. It needs to be a "semi-hardening" type product. Use it sparingly also like you would loctite.

All the other torque callouts are denoted for "lubricated" threads using either engine oil, or some form of anti-seize (my preference).
 
One more quick silly question, I have the felpro gasket kit that has all the top end gaskets I should need, it has two pushrod cover gaskets, one is corkboard and the other is black rubber, do I use them both or just one or the other? Thanks again.
 
The lifter cover/pushrod cover gaskets should be a different size, one is more "narrow" and is for a 266/304 application. The wider one is for a 345/392 app.

Lay 'em out flat one of top of the other and you will see a noticable difference.

As for sealant used with those gaskets...I use permatex #97 on either and glue the gasket to the sheetmetal cover first and let it cure up. Then a thin coat on the opposite side of the gasket just before setting in place.

Permatex#97 issa medium viscosity "contact adhesive". 3m weatherstrip cement is the same thing in either black or yellow and works equally as well. The "versachem" brand version of this stuff is identical and much less dinero!!!
 
Thanks, I have most of it back together. This is what I got so far, here is the before and after.
Before....
img00197.jpg


After....
img00205.jpg
 
Okay, I might be fibbing a little bit, I do have one side back on and now for the other, I was told at the shop not to put anything on the head gaskets because they already had the sealant on them and that any kind of extra gasket material or anything foreign will not work properly, is this true?
 
Yes it is. Where'd you source those bling-bling valve covers?

Wait a minute. That's 2nd pic isn't even an IH motor is it?
 
Okay, heads are back on, valve covers and tappet cover, pushrods and rocker assemblies back in, next is the intake manifold, do I need gasket maker for this and I cannot find in the book the torque specs, should the mani be torqued or just tightened?
 
All composite head gaskets go on dry! They are teflon impregnated and do not need to be re-torqued after a break-in.

See this thread regarding intake manifold installation:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/gas-engine-tech/3397-intake-manifold-bolts.html

The intake gaskets must be oriented the correct way, I treat 'em with two tack coats of k&w coppercoat or equivalent and allow to "dry". Then one real wet coat just before placing on the heads,...that sticks 'em in place really well if you lower the intake manifold straight down and don't allow it to slide around.

By the way, that prestolite electronic distributor in your pic has the wrong cap on it. That cap is for a Holley 1500 series distributor and does not fit the prestolite correctly and the terminals are indexed about 5 degrees off from where they should be. And the actual cap indexes to the body flange in a completely different manner.
 
Use copper coat spray if you have the steel embossed intake gaskets. Other wise they go on dry.

Looks like a short spray paint can by permatex... See below.

Intake manifold bolt torque falls under the standard bolt tq for a 3/8-16 bolt 25-30 ft/lb.

Apply the copper coating to both sides of the gaskets , 2 medium coats each side allowing to dry for 10 minutes after final coat. I also spray the mating faces on the heads lightly allowing them to tack off then assemble. The 3 little tabs on the top of each gasket can be bent 90 degrees toward the head side to allow easy location by hanging on the head. After assembly straighten for ease of locating the valve cover gaskets. You'll see what I mean when you start.
 

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Mayben, that makes twice in one day that we agree and post moments from each other. You gota camera on my puter???:cornut: . Whats next I'll agree with our obamanation leader. not. (shamless injection of my opinion):icon_xd:
 
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michael mayben said:
By the way, that prestolite electronic distributor in your pic has the wrong cap on it. That cap is for a Holley 1500 series distributor and does not fit the prestolite correctly and the terminals are indexed about 5 degrees off from where they should be. And the actual cap indexes to the body flange in a completely different manner.
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I do not have a clue how that got on there then, that is the one that was on there when I got the Scout, and it was running, is it possible that someone offset the distributor to make up for that 5 degrees? The cap you are talking about has male studs on top probably right?
 
Won't effect timing but will effect rotor/cap phasing. When the coil fires the cap electrode will be off and subject to flash over/ carbon tracking as a result.
 
Robert kenney said:
won't effect timing but will effect rotor/cap phasing. When the coil fires the cap electrode will be off and subject to flash over/ carbon tracking as a result.
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Correctomundo roberto!

Our dsl is down, I won't be around here until later tonite unless I can git it figgrd out. This cell phone-as-a-modem is way too slow to use.
 
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