Two Bent Pushrods

Just fyi, here is my current before and after (the real one)
before...
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After...
100_3899.jpg


I know the distributor cap is wrong, I will change it out when I can, I still need to pre-oil, and finish up a couple more things, so far I hop it looks correct, I followed all directions to a tee, but, my oil is leaking out of the drain plug, this happened before, I guess I need to use either silicone or get a new plug, I have torqued everything like the book has said and used thread sealant, I hope I'm not missing anything, other than I forgot to put the thermostat in when I put the housing on, I will have to fix that also. Thanks for all the help, and I'm still working on her.
 
grimlock97 said:
just fyi, here is my current before and after (the real one)
before...
100_3806.jpg


After...
100_3899.jpg


I know the distributor cap is wrong, I will change it out when I can, I still need to pre-oil, and finish up a couple more things, so far I hop it looks correct, I followed all directions to a tee, but, my oil is leaking out of the drain plug, this happened before, I guess I need to use either silicone or get a new plug, I have torqued everything like the book has said and used thread sealant, I hope I'm not missing anything, other than I forgot to put the thermostat in when I put the housing on, I will have to fix that also. Thanks for all the help, and I'm still working on her.
Click to expand...

Looks nice!

Do not use silicone (rtv) anywhere near that motor!!!!

The drain plug simply needs the proper gasket! Either a crushable copper or a fiber gasket (either type come in full engine or "conversion" gasket sets), not a nylon gasket. Those are universal items available at any parts house!
 
michael mayben said:
looks nice!

Do not use silicone (rtv) anywhere near that motor!!!!

The drain plug simply needs the proper gasket! Either a crushable copper or a fiber gasket (either type come in full engine or "conversion" gasket sets), not a nylon gasket. Those are universal items available at any parts house!
Click to expand...


Thanks very much sir. I will pick up a new gasket today. I have a lot to do still but I know I'll more questions.
 
grimlock97 said:
thanks very much sir. I will pick up a new gasket today. I have a lot to do still but I know I'll more questions.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I forgot to give you the dimension for the oem drain plug,...it is 1/2" thread diameter, a very common size with replacements hanging on the wall!
 
Am I missing something? I got her all put back together and tried to crank her and she's not running, I wired the coil up properly from when I took it off, there is a slight whistle coming from the carb when I try to crank but that goes away if I step on the pedal a little, my battery was a little low but I wouldn't think too low to start her. The alternator is not hooked up but that shouldn't matter, I have the main wire going in but the person before me wired it wrong so I have to figure out where the brown and white wire is supposed to go, but I wouldn't think that would matter.
100_3907.jpg

100_3908.jpg

100_3909.jpg

100_3910.jpg

100_3911.jpg

100_3912.jpg
 
scoutboy74 said:
grim, have you verified spark and fuel at the plugs?
Click to expand...

I have verified spark, I have not verified fuel, the carb only set for three weeks since the machine ran last so I was hoping it wasn't the carb, I did do a bad thing while testing and used a small shot of ether to just see if it would catch and it didn't, I think I'm leaning towards fuel at the moment. Thanks for the help and keep the ideas coming if anyone has any
 
Nothing wrong with a squirt of ether. Odd that it didn't catch fire at least briefly with that. It's very possible that the fuel system lost it's prime during the down time.
 
I emptied out the gas tank b/c of the bad gas and dumped the carb a while back, if the system just isn't primed do I just need to turn it over and let the fuel get back up to the carb? I'm going to give it a shot of ether in the morning with a fresh battery and give it one more go, if that doesn't work I guess I'll have to pull the carb again and put that rebuild kit on it. I don't really know what else to do, I know it's getting air and spark and it is kinda weird it didn't at least burp when I shot the either but I didn't use much and the butterfly was almost shut, it's cold and dark now so I'll have to try in the morning. Thanks again.
 
Grim, steal your wifes turkey baster syringe or something similar, remove the breather. Theres a round tube sticking up over the bowl on the carb its the vent for the carb. Fill up the baster or whatever and fill up the bowl on the carb it only takes about 4 or 5 ounces to do this so dont squirt a bunch down it. Pump the throttle til you get squirter action and hit the switch it should fire off without working the starter to death.
We do this on race engines all the time after a jet change makes things simple.
 
I assume by your pix that you have not put any water in it yet? Even a short run with a dry water pump can damage the seal in it.
 
Yeah, I haven't put any water in yet, but she fired up this morning, I only ran it for about 5 or 10 seconds, she runs a little rought but I think that goes back to the carb, I didn't run it long b/c there was no radiator, it's going on next, I used the turkey baster and no ether and a fresh battery and she started right up thanks to everyone for their help, one more question though, I'm not sure if I want to put the a/c back on, I know if I don't I would have to plug the lines that went and came from the a/c. Any suggestions?
 
Simply disconnect the suction and discharge plumbing from the evaporator inlet/out connections. Then securely seal the evaporator fittings to prevent any air or outside contamination from entering in case someday you do want to attempt to put the ac system back in service.

Then seal all hose connections or any other connection points that you disassemble. Keep that stuff sealed until such time as you attempt to reconnect. It's imperative that atmospheric contamination be excluded from any and all refrigeration plumbing.

The receiver/drier itself is a throw-away item that has a regular replacement schedule, so it would not be reused in the future.

All the plumbing connections on the oem a/c system are flare-type. Modern "o" ring fittings did not come into common useage in the mobile hvac industry until around 1983>84.

Edit:

I see now from your pics that the hoses were simply cut, so unless the manual service valves on that compressor were shut down, it's already been contaminated internally. Same for the evaporator. The disconnect fittings for the hoses at the evaporator are inside the cab and somewhat difficult to access.
 
Okay, she's back alive, she started right up, I still have to hold the throttle down just a tad when it starts, I put 5 quarts of oil in and it shows low, but the oil pressure gauge shows good oil pressure, I think I leaked a little out putting it in and when I forgot the two screws on the very back of the oil pan, I guess I need to get the carb rebuilt professionally in order to make it run right, I just finished welding the drivers fender up to make it look new again, she will go on tomorrow, then it's off to the body shop, lift rims and tires!! Thanks for everyones help, I'll stick around and see if I can't add some knowledge somewhere.
 
Grim, you're actually 2 quarts low. 6 will get you to the full Mark. 7 puts you one quart over, which is where you want to be with the unique Scout II double sump pan. This was posted as a service bulletin way back in the day from the IH propeller heads as a solution to an oil starvation problem at extended high rpms inherent in the Scout II engines only due to the funky hump pan. It won't hurt a damn thing to be overfull on any IH v8, but it is only a necessity on the Scout's with the solid front axle clearing oil pan.
 
Thanks guys, I was running her this morning after adding the two quarts, I still have a couple of small issues, the thermostat housing is leaking a littke, easy fix, I forgot the thermostat and took the housing off and put it in and it didn't seal properly, no big deal, there is fuel leaking from the carb on both sides, there is a hole on the passenger side of the carb that looks like there should be a tube in it and it looks like it's leaking there a little, on the drivers side fuel is collecting on top of the throttle, I guess a rebuild would fix this? Also one quick question, if I wanted to just scratch the old carb for time and effort sake, what new Holley would be idea for this motor? I have a rebuilt 2210, I was looking at a Holley 2300, any suggestions?
 
Ideal carb replacement??,...the venerable Holley 2300 but only in the 350cfm version, list 0-7448.
 
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